"Strong" Build. pic heavy.

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Brentis   10 kW

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"Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 15 2011 1:35pm

Started with this.
GT_S_top_class_e_bike.jpg
GT_S_top_class_e_bike.jpg (120.81 KiB) Viewed 4628 times
Strong GT S top class e bike my left nut.

Bought it used locally for $400. originally sold from Canadian Tire for 800-1000.
More than I wanted to pay, but I could not make/have made a frame like this for less. So I splurged.
He had new batteries put in to sell it, so now I have a new 30lbs lead weight.

I plan for this build to be a fast street bike. :wink:
Strong minus some dead weight.JPG
Strong minus some dead weight.JPG (58.88 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
Doesn't look a race bike yet.
Strong. 20's mounted. Looks like a race bike to me..JPG
Strong. 20's mounted. Looks like a race bike to me..JPG (57.12 KiB) Viewed 4628 times
That's a better stance. :mrgreen:
Strong. 20inch HS3540 52v11.5ah.JPG
Strong. 20inch HS3540 52v11.5ah.JPG (56.11 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
Now with some power. a123 pack.
Just a pic. though.
Strong demands Lipo. :twisted:

Dropouts are massive. 175mm wide without wheel installed.
175mm dropout. no wheel. Can squeeze or stretch, being steel..JPG
175mm dropout. no wheel. Can squeeze or stretch, being steel..JPG (54.79 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
Being steel the swingarm can be squeezed, stretched, welded. Beautiful.
All steel, flat, 10mm 175mm wide dropouts. Lovely..JPG
All steel, flat, 10mm 175mm wide dropouts. Lovely..JPG (51.64 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
Factory torque arms/wire protection.
side of torque arm.JPG
side of torque arm.JPG (49.99 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
inside of torque arms.JPG
inside of torque arms.JPG (46.2 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
Unknown motor.JPG
Unknown motor.JPG (53.86 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
This is the original motivator.
Brushed 36v 500w peak.
Only 16lbs. laced in rim with tire, screw-on brake, 7spd freewheel.
Pretty light actually.

Since "Ghetto" donated it's motivation.
The Motor Crystalyte HX 3540 mounted in 20 inch wheel..JPG
The Motor Crystalyte HX 3540 mounted in 20 inch wheel..JPG (209.59 KiB) Viewed 4627 times
I may try fitting it on the Miyata. single speed lady bike. Options.

The future includes
Fork/shock upgrade.
Cycle Analyst
Lipo @ 88.8v 40amps to start. I am looking for an honest 60+kmh.
according to the simulator I am looking @ 66kmh. Perfect.
Maybe real brakes on this build. :wink:

Lots more to come
Stay tuned...
Last edited by Brentis on Dec 18 2011 1:35pm, edited 5 times in total.

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spinningmagnets   100 GW

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Re: Strong. Build.

Post by spinningmagnets » Dec 15 2011 9:09pm

This isn't a common shape of frame, but I like it a lot. Regardless of battery chemistry, that is a great place to put the weight. It seems that male bicyclists in the USA still do not want uni-gender frames, and this seems to be a good compromise that allows a low top-bar for a comfortable stand-over height, while still "looking" as strong as traditional male frames.

edit: Nice upgrade on the gas shock, I hear they are a big improvement (though pricey)
Last edited by spinningmagnets on Dec 15 2011 9:20pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Gordo   100 kW

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Re: Strong. Build.

Post by Gordo » Dec 15 2011 9:17pm

+1 :D
I was just thinking the same thoughts. Practical, has (HAD) disc brakes and strong layout, with a good 48V battery and a 1KW frock, off we go with a simple first build for anyone.
X-treme 3KW Scooter...OFF ROAD ONLY....Giant 1KW 48V 24" Hubmotor....E-Apex 1KW 48V 26" Hubmotor, built 2012-05-26
Thanks Justin, for saving ES. May Grin Tech grow and prosper.

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Philistine   1 MW

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Re: Strong. Build.

Post by Philistine » Dec 15 2011 11:38pm

That is an awesome frame to work with, so many options. You will be able to fit a stack of lipo into that cross bar area.

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biohazardman   100 kW

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Re: Strong. Build.

Post by biohazardman » Dec 16 2011 12:07am

I like the frame as well nice find. Looks like a dream for an RC build with that 20 inch wheel in there
Build it like your life depends on it. Cuz it does.
Golden Motor Schwinn first build http://goldenmotor.com/SMF/index.php?topic=279.0
Giant BMC build http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... &start=390
Short ride vids http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 60#p321703

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dogman dan   100 GW

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Re: Strong. Build.

Post by dogman dan » Dec 16 2011 7:56am

Perfect frame really. Just bolt or weld angle iron to the dropouts, and convert it to a pinch style dropout. screw the factory torque arms. It should corner really smooth with the battery there, possibly a tad low, but definetly carried good in the center.

Here's my 1/4 thick 1" x 1" angle pinchers.
mongoose pinch dropout.JPG

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Ykick   100 GW

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Re: Strong. Build.

Post by Ykick » Dec 16 2011 8:29am

Looks like a great frame! Perhaps upgrade the suspension fork/shock but it looks like a great place to stash Lipo or whatever chemistry you choose.
Talent must not be wasted.... Those who have talent must hug it, embrace it, nurture it and share it lest it be taken away from you as fast as it was loaned to you.

- Frank Sinatra

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: Strong. Build.

Post by Brentis » Dec 16 2011 1:06pm

Thanks Guys.

This frame is what sold me. Components can be upgraded simply enough.
Unless you can weld, attaining this bike as a rolling chassis is a great find.
I only have basic hand/bike tools and almost no room for my bikes, let alone, Proper shop tools.
Bonus :wink:
dogman wrote:Perfect frame really. Just bolt or weld angle iron to the dropouts, and convert it to a pinch style dropout. screw the factory torque arms. It should corner really smooth with the battery there, possibly a tad low, but definetly carried good in the center.

Here's my 1/4 thick 1" x 1" angle pinchers.
The attachment mongoose pinch dropout.JPG is no longer available
My thoughts exactly :mrgreen:

I have been inspired by your set-up for sometime now, Dogman. :)
I may drill and bolt up a couple pcs of angle. I don't weld.Yet :wink:
If I can save up my pennies/patience,
I would really like to epoxy or weld up a proper pinch set-up to the inside of the swingarm.
Making just about any motor compatible.
The caliper mount needs to move way in/disc way out to be compatible w/HS3540.
Maybe incorp. onto pinch dropout.
Lots of room. 20mm Min. Would give clean look on the outside. :wink:
I want to keep as manufactured a look as possible.
Ignore bad camera angle. Looks like the swingarm is pinched, but nuts are finger tight.

20mm room for inside clamping dropouts.1.JPG
20mm room for inside clamping dropouts.1.JPG (58.89 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
Caliper removed.1.JPG
Caliper removed.1.JPG (81.56 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
Cut off the wheel lock. Paint. Should look good.
dogman wrote:...screw the factory torque arms. ...
The protector and the dropout.JPG
The protector and the dropout.JPG (42.29 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
Yeah. the tang on the right is the anti-torque device.
To small for the 10mm flat C-lyte. :roll: An opportunity. :!:

What's wrong here? :roll: Can't believe I didn't notice earlier.
Rear shock. Installed upside down.Duh.1.JPG
Rear shock. Installed upside down.Duh.1.JPG (60.28 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
spinningmagnets wrote:This isn't a common shape of frame, but I like it a lot. Regardless of battery chemistry, that is a great place to put the weight. It seems that male bicyclists in the USA still do not want uni-gender frames, and this seems to be a good compromise that allows a low top-bar for a comfortable stand-over height, while still "looking" as strong as traditional male frames.

edit: Nice upgrade on the gas shock, I hear they are a big improvement (though pricey)
If the zoom fork is a tell. This shock is nothing special.
Both came standard.
Both will eventually be upgraded.
Interesting,I never considered this bike unisex. :)
Since I don't wear a dress, and mount like cowboy, I was blind to it. :lol:

A few more pics.
Could probably be mod. for 16s Life4po.  Cycle Analyst eventually.1.JPG
Could probably be mod. for 16s Life4po. Cycle Analyst eventually.1.JPG (53.75 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
Standard Sla installed.JPG
Standard Sla installed.JPG (65.16 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
Using a dusty exc.bike as a bike stand. Dont be fooled by random bike parts in photos ;  ).1.JPG
Using a dusty exc.bike as a bike stand. Dont be fooled by random bike parts in photos ; ).1.JPG (53.99 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
out with the old, on with the new 1.JPG
out with the old, on with the new 1.JPG (59.71 KiB) Viewed 4471 times
Stay tuned...

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 16 2011 6:54pm

A few more pics/comments.
The old, bagged up & ready to go..JPG
The old, bagged up & ready to go..JPG (52.87 KiB) Viewed 4436 times
The old, 3Quarter.JPG
The old, 3Quarter.JPG (52.03 KiB) Viewed 4436 times
Lining the rear wheel up..JPG
Lining the rear wheel up..JPG (60.44 KiB) Viewed 4436 times
rear dropout brake side.JPG
rear dropout brake side.JPG (62.89 KiB) Viewed 4436 times
Gutted of old spring contact power transfer..JPG
Gutted of old spring contact power transfer..JPG (49.49 KiB) Viewed 4436 times
30lbs. o' Lead. 18 x 4.5 x 6 approx. intenal..JPG
30lbs. o' Lead. 18 x 4.5 x 6 approx. intenal..JPG (59.26 KiB) Viewed 4436 times
Ignore measurement from pic.
Internal space is 18"L x 4"+w x 3.5" deep.
I am planning to reuse the battery case.
Modifying it to open, for monitoring purposes.
Hope to fit 24s 2p. Lipo. 8ah format would be sweet.
Time to skim hobby king for measurements. :wink:
See what combo I can come up with.

Stay tuned...

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spinningmagnets   100 GW

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by spinningmagnets » Dec 16 2011 7:19pm

I don't want to sound like I'm being picky about a great frame, I just want to take this opportunity to point out some things I think will be useful if someone wants to weld up something similar.

Some frames have the pivot for the rear suspension arm ON the rear sus arm, and some have it on the main frame. By having it on the rear-sus arm, chain stretch and derailler cycling is reduced when the rear-sus arm cycles during compressions. As another option, if the pivot is on the main frame, it opens up the option for a BB_drive, and giving the motor some gears (at least two, and 3 is better) dramatically reduces motor+controller heat, and also spreads out the motors performance envelope across a wider range of speeds.

Another minor frame-choice variation is the rear-sus arm that is shaped like an "on its side" letter C, with no lower chain stay. A chain doesn't need to be broken or re-linked to take it off or on, plus...the lack of a lower chain stay also means its easier to experiment with a variety of non-hub solutions.

Concerning the two top bars, I like the shape because it allows a battery cradle that loads and unloads from the top, A minor variation that I want to suggest is a longer head tube to give that joint better strength, if the head tube was two inches longer, the two top bars could be two inches higher, and I would go so far as to suggest using ractangular tube for the two top bars rather than the common round tube. That would be just as strong, and slightly thinner while allowing the same width of battery pack.

Either way, I am glad to see frames like this being produced, and I will point to them as examples that have specific benefits that should be more appreciated...

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joe tomten   100 W

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by joe tomten » Dec 17 2011 2:11pm

I do in fact want to weld something together, and my eye is on a 20 or 24" wheel, suspended longtail thing.

This is a great find, and the dual tube battery carriage and x-frame support structure makes a whole lot of sense.

Been collecting a few craigslist steel frames to start practicing on. But the whole suspension situation is a little overwhelming to jump into without a physical model on hand to relate to.

That along with the desire to do something w/regards to a jig set up that would help me keep the whole thing under control during setup and brazing.

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nicobie   10 MW

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by nicobie » Dec 17 2011 2:51pm

I wonder where a guy could find one of those?
Image

May your tote always stay tight and your edge eversharp :wink:

my eTownie build thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... =6&t=23701

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 17 2011 6:41pm

nicobie wrote:I wonder where a guy could find one of those?
This was a craigslist special.
Hunt all the local sources.
Eccentric LBS's, hock/pawn shops, flea markets, etc.
The Strong is at least 4 years old, the tech. even older :roll:
I believe I found a frame like this years ago @ the LBS, marketed as a Powabyke.
Looks like modern Powabyke's are a little different set-up though.

I am fortunate that in my area, there is more money than brains.
Lot's of examples, of year old unattended/dead batt. bikes and scooters.
Classifieds are littered with them.
Be patient,hunt, then jump when you find a good one.

Good luck.

joe tomten wrote:I do in fact want to weld something together, and my eye is on a 20 or 24" wheel, suspended longtail thing.

This is a great find, and the dual tube battery carriage and x-frame support structure makes a whole lot of sense.

Been collecting a few craigslist steel frames to start practicing on. But the whole suspension situation is a little overwhelming to jump into without a physical model on hand to relate to.

That along with the desire to do something w/regards to a jig set up that would help me keep the whole thing under control during setup and brazing.
spinningmagnets wrote:I don't want to sound like I'm being picky about a great frame, I just want to take this opportunity to point out some things I think will be useful if someone wants to weld up something similar.

Some frames have the pivot for the rear suspension arm ON the rear sus arm, and some have it on the main frame. By having it on the rear-sus arm, chain stretch and derailler cycling is reduced when the rear-sus arm cycles during compressions. As another option, if the pivot is on the main frame, it opens up the option for a BB_drive, and giving the motor some gears (at least two, and 3 is better) dramatically reduces motor+controller heat, and also spreads out the motors performance envelope across a wider range of speeds.

Another minor frame-choice variation is the rear-sus arm that is shaped like an "on its side" letter C, with no lower chain stay. A chain doesn't need to be broken or re-linked to take it off or on, plus...the lack of a lower chain stay also means its easier to experiment with a variety of non-hub solutions.

Concerning the two top bars, I like the shape because it allows a battery cradle that loads and unloads from the top, A minor variation that I want to suggest is a longer head tube to give that joint better strength, if the head tube was two inches longer, the two top bars could be two inches higher, and I would go so far as to suggest using ractangular tube for the two top bars rather than the common round tube. That would be just as strong, and slightly thinner while allowing the same width of battery pack.

Either way, I am glad to see frames like this being produced, and I will point to them as examples that have specific benefits that should be more appreciated...
P.S.
As I tear down and rebuild Strong. I will take lots of pics and measurements.
As some may like to weld something similar up.

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 17 2011 6:59pm

A few more updates...
Shock, battery, kick stand removed..jpg
Shock, battery, kick stand removed..jpg (105.7 KiB) Viewed 4321 times
Look @ that stance. Chopper style?
Bolt up a small bar/arm where the shock was, and you have a Lowriding Hardtail :?:
Shock removed..jpg
Shock removed..jpg (108.14 KiB) Viewed 4321 times
The other side
KS Kind Shock 261..jpg
KS Kind Shock 261..jpg (107.72 KiB) Viewed 4321 times
Anyone have real world experience with this?
Research doesn't find much.
So much space..jpg
So much space..jpg (106.02 KiB) Viewed 4321 times
In a flurry of parts removal, I cut the cable to the rear derailer. :roll:
Though I use 1 of 7spds, 11 tooth.
I'm gonna need that for easy chain line adjustment. D'OH
Call it 15mm space..JPG
Call it 15mm space..JPG (53.64 KiB) Viewed 4321 times
Maybe inside pinch bolt with integrated derailer mount.


Local delicacy.jpg
Local delicacy.jpg (105.24 KiB) Viewed 4321 times
Actually quite nice. Spicy Cock Soup :lol:


Stay tuned...

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Hobbit   100 W

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by Hobbit » Dec 17 2011 9:38pm

A builder of e-bikes AND a lover of spicy cock soup!!!!!!

Brentis....are you married? :oops:
Kannada!! Tetsuo!!

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: Strong. Build.Pic Heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 17 2011 10:57pm

Sorry Hobbit.
I share my spicy cock with another.
Ready for a hot bowl..JPG
Ready for a hot bowl..JPG (51.61 KiB) Viewed 2541 times
Looks like someones hungry :lol:

Seriously though,
my baby.JPG
my baby.JPG (56.35 KiB) Viewed 2545 times
I love her. We are engaged.
She picks me up when I am down.
Supports me in every way.
I use the kitchen as a bike shop.
If that's not love, I don't know what is. :mrgreen:



I just love Chinglish. Other miscommunications.
I can be easily amused.
Local delicacy.jpg
Local delicacy.jpg (105.24 KiB) Viewed 2539 times
That is the best example I have found yet.
Come on.
If you are going to export to a foreign country....
Unless this is only made of male chickens. :roll:
That is a mighty bird on the packet.

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mushymelon   100 W

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Re: Strong. Build. pic heavy.

Post by mushymelon » Dec 18 2011 12:35pm

Great start Brentis. I've got mine stripped down and taking measurements. Two 6s lipos fit perfect side by side in the frame, two high possibly three high under the seat. Im thinking 24s3p. Every time i read the lipo threads, I get a little overwhelmed. I hope the Zephyr is finished soon.

Im thinking of modifying the front of the frame where the steer tube is to accommodate for dh triple crown forks. looks may improve too.

Kitchen workshop thats great, my shop is freezing right now.

This is great inspiration, should be fun to see how these Stong builds turn out.

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: Strong. Build. pic heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 18 2011 1:14pm

mushymelon wrote:Great start Brentis. I've got mine stripped down and taking measurements. Two 6s lipos fit perfect side by side in the frame, two high possibly three high under the seat. Im thinking 24s3p. Every time i read the lipo threads, I get a little overwhelmed. I hope the Zephyr is finished soon.

Im thinking of modifying the front of the frame where the steer tube is to accommodate for dh triple crown forks. looks may improve too.

Kitchen workshop thats great, my shop is freezing right now.

This is great inspiration, should be fun to see how these Stong builds turn out.
Thanks Mushy.

Apologies for misleading you on measurements earlier. :roll:
I don't know where I came up with 210mm dropouts.
Our communication about the Strong frame, really got the ball rolling for me.
I have had this bike sitting around since May. Only rode it a couple of times.
"Ghetto" was so much more fun.
So "Rat Scoot" will stay as is for now,
and I will combine "Ghetto" with "Strong" as a winter project.
I really like how it looks/ feels.
Nice cockpit for my 5'9" 200lb mass.

LiPo can be daunting. Read all the, for noob links. Then read them again.
I still am apprehensive, but willing to learn.
You just cant beat the size and power of LiPo.

In addition to the Zephyr,
Consider Method's boards.
http://www.methtek.com/2011/11/12/lvchv ... boards-10/

Or, I'm considering
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... _Lipo.html
1 for each pack. Easy constant monitoring.
Options.

I really hoped to reuse the stock battery box, but am having a hard time getting more than 24s1p in it as is.
Likely have to build a battery box of my own, to take advantage of the open battery cage.

I plan my first upgrade to be a proper fork.
Dual crown DH, if it'll fit. I have yet to remove mine for measure.
No more speculation. :roll:
Will a 1 1/8" fork work, what modification do you think we need?
I will stay tuned to your build to see what you come up with.

Best of luck.

Stay tuned....

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: "Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 18 2011 1:49pm

For those following this build, thinking they would like to try and weld up something similar.
Check out this build thread.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... =3&t=27859

Beautiful work.
Similar concept as Strong, but looks even stronger.
Top job Tri-lobe.

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: "Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 21 2011 1:07pm

Some more pics for consideration.
swingarm pivot. quarter inch thick tang's.JPG
swingarm pivot. quarter inch thick tang's.JPG (57.02 KiB) Viewed 2470 times
2 1/2" across, 1/4" tangs.
Is this sufficiently strong for 20lbs wheel @60kmh?
Lateral strength?
I guess I'll find out :roll:
BB on swingarm.JPG
BB on swingarm.JPG (52.65 KiB) Viewed 2470 times
Bottom bracket is a part of the swingarm.
Should have minimal chain growth, if I'm not mistaken.
With the horizontal dropouts I should be able to run a single speed.
No derailer. Simple. The way I like it. :mrgreen:
Front of swingarm narrowed for unwanted front derailer...JPG
Front of swingarm narrowed for unwanted front derailer...JPG (60.44 KiB) Viewed 2470 times
Could have been alot stronger.
Damn that front derailer.
Plenty of room for a 3inch rear tire..JPG
Plenty of room for a 3inch rear tire..JPG (62.28 KiB) Viewed 2470 times
Would love to run a proper Moped tire.
Pirelli ML75 16x 2.75" should fit.

More to come...
Last edited by Brentis on Jan 05 2012 4:21pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: "Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 22 2011 5:08pm

More pics of the dirty Pivot area.
Minimal chain Growth.jpg
Minimal chain Growth.jpg (107.73 KiB) Viewed 2441 times
BB on swingarm.JPG
BB on swingarm.JPG (52.65 KiB) Viewed 2441 times
Strong. swingarm space.JPG
Strong. swingarm space.JPG (56.86 KiB) Viewed 2441 times
6" between front of triangle and the tire.
RC :?:
Lots of options.
I received a PM from a member asking to buy the unknown brushed geared hub.
Hub only. I have other plans for it
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/vi ... =9&t=34819
He has been searching the classifieds for two years.
Currently has 3 frames. Wants low mileage motors :wink:
He has paid as little as $150cdn for a toast battery example.
Great deal. We are lucky both being in southern ontario.
Lots of used Ebike choices.
This model offers the most upgrade potential.
Very Noob friendly dropouts.
I want 1 more roller, to build a pair. :mrgreen:
Nice to ride with someone on similar paced machines.
Anyways I have competition now.

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Re: "Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by heathyoung » Dec 22 2011 10:16pm

Pleanty of room for a controller at least!
GNG offroad build on Craftworks DHR with 12S2P lipo. Light, balanced, powerful, able to climb a tree.
Project Vectrii (2) - status - Finished. Nope. 38S Leaf cells are next. Now have 2 of them - Averages 50Wh/Klm

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Brentis   10 kW

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Re: "Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 23 2011 12:28pm

More Pics..
The Old and the Real.JPG
The Old and the Real.JPG (56.89 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
The Old and the Real2.JPG
The Old and the Real2.JPG (54.2 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
The Battery case can handle 16s4p a123 cyl.
Unfortunately I have 16s5p. D'oh.
Custom battery box for me.
Chilwee indeed. lol.JPG
Chilwee indeed. lol.JPG (53.58 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
What you see, is what you get.
No stats or info. :roll:

Installed shock into proper postion2.JPG
Installed shock into proper postion2.JPG (70.29 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
Installed shock into proper postion3.JPG
Installed shock into proper postion3.JPG (70.61 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
Hope using it upside down didn't damage it.

Front tire Kenda K-Rad 20 x 2.125.JPG
Front tire Kenda K-Rad 20 x 2.125.JPG (61.48 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
Lots of tread left.

Rear Kenda K-Rad 20 x 2.125.JPG
Rear Kenda K-Rad 20 x 2.125.JPG (58.39 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
One to many burnouts. :mrgreen:

90mm drum.JPG
90mm drum.JPG (75.36 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
90mm Front Drum. I like..JPG
90mm Front Drum. I like..JPG (60.96 KiB) Viewed 2422 times
90mm. Designed for cargo bike use.
I'm comfortable with this and regen. upto 60kmh.

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Brentis   10 kW

10 kW
Posts: 869
Joined: Apr 05 2010 4:25pm
Location: PEI, Canada

Re: "Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by Brentis » Dec 23 2011 12:45pm

A couple more...
Another angle.JPG
Another angle.JPG (62.69 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
Low rear third.JPG
Low rear third.JPG (65.57 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
Lookin down..JPG
Lookin down..JPG (57.86 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
Does fit long(16s).JPG
Does fit long(16s).JPG (61.15 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
Doesnt fit sideways(5p).JPG
Doesnt fit sideways(5p).JPG (48.56 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
Fingers width gap..JPG
Fingers width gap..JPG (57.62 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
I will use the drum as long as I retain the Zoom fork.
I will upgrade to hydros with Fork.
This model of fork is surprisingly thick.
The standard anti torque device, wraps around the fork then captures the brake arm,
Sturmey Archer brake arm anti torque device..JPG
Sturmey Archer brake arm anti torque device..JPG (73.37 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
Sturmey Archer brake arm anti torque device.2.JPG
Sturmey Archer brake arm anti torque device.2.JPG (67.46 KiB) Viewed 2421 times
Much to small in diameter for this fork.

Considering I'm more Red Green than Mike Holmes. Eh :wink:
Do you think a piece of wood between brake arm and fork, then a quality hose clamp will hold?

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monkeychops   100 W

100 W
Posts: 154
Joined: Oct 17 2011 2:21pm
Location: Wiltshire, United Kingdom

Re: "Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Post by monkeychops » Jan 02 2012 11:02am

I've got a similar bike which I'm slowly upgrading.
I'd be interested to know what kind of torque plate / torque arm you use and whether you re-use the rear disc brake.
Also wondering where I can get a 16s4p a123 battery if it would fit inside the stock battery case...

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