after big fires, seems wise to change ways a bit...Trackman417 wrote:I never knew you would do this good of a job.
i rode a floppy old friction drive to the metro a couple times. last ebike commute was 3/20/13:was the last time you road an ebike the night before the fire?
hah I thought that too after all my time crook. When I first got back on the bike I remember thinking "wow this is too fast, this feels unsafe to go full throttle" then a week later I was back to full throttle straight out of the garage door and wanting moreGCinDC wrote:did i ride like that? gollie...
you should have added a warning, I wasnt expecting to see topless footage. I saw nipple for gods sake!GCinDC wrote:garage was boiling..
I watched the first few minutes then let it play in the background for another 20GCinDC wrote:no time to edit this
i tried to open the throttle to solder in the pigtails but it wouldn't come apart by removing the screws alone. anyone know how to get these apart?Hyena wrote:A second smooth/linear regen throttle is something that's sorely missed from other controllers. I'll be interested to hear just how much regen force you can get from it. It'd be cool to be able to do away with rear brakes and just have regen. You could have a cable brake lever with just 2" of cable on it, a magnet on the end with a hall sensor glued to the sheath and that's one let cable/line that needs to leave your bars
Or a flame thrower.pendragon8000 wrote:I suggest running a horn on that button. Its great to beep wanka drivers that aren't looking.
not sure what to do w/ the button.
My throttle holds together through 4 plastic clips inside. To get it apart I just need to pull it a bit harder.GCinDC wrote:i tried to open the throttle to solder in the pigtails but it wouldn't come apart by removing the screws alone. anyone know how to get these apart?
with KElly controller, when I putt the regen mode to the max I'm too much pushed on the bar @30kph or 60kph..., so I had to downgrade it to half the max...I didn't wired a throttle yet to it but i stop really hard...it almost make the back wheel drifting...feel like I have the ABS @full regen engaged when realeasing the throttle...sweet touching the rear break make it drift...Hyena wrote:It'd be cool to be able to do away with rear brakes and just have regen. You could have a cable brake lever with just 2" of cable on it, a magnet on the end with a hall sensor glued to the sheath and that's one let cable/line that needs to leave your bars
Better still, why not remove it from its case, make an aluminium side panel for your FG box and bolt it directly to that ? It'll have good heat dissipation with a flat plate that size and it has the added benefit of keeping the indices of our box dry and out of the grime, and minimise wiring mess too.GCinDC wrote:i wouldn't put it in the enclosure w/o fan, and with some cutting, i could acutally fit it!
like this?nicobie wrote:Why not just but it on the back side of the seat post tube. I doubt the the rear suspension has that much travel to make a problem.