Thank you!

Hey thanks for the info sacko. I was looking at your build and was pretty jealous to see you using a BMS and bulk charger on (what I think) is your first build. I was looking into the BMS that you got and remember reading that the thing gets HOT. I bet its only if its balancing a real unbalanced pack?sacko wrote:24s 10ah removed from the bike as was re-doing some wiring.Trackman417 wrote:I wish I had a better/ more practical way to charge 24s of battery's to get the motor up to 40mph.
24s Charger £100 delivered from BMS Battery - http://www.bmsbattery.com/alloy-shell/4 ... arger.html
24s BMS £40 from Bestech - http://bestechpower.com/888v24spcmbmspc ... -D131.html
migueralliart's torque arms bolt to the caliper clamp via extend caliper bolts. I bought to of his arms for a potential commuter build I am planning on doing way way down the line. His parts are pure beauty. Check out his website. http://www.EVworksLAB.comMAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER wrote:Why not bolt the torque arm to the brake caliper bolt?
Off the top of my head, running 72 volts at 100 amps, got to be 180 NM or higher with a 26mtb wheel. I think the arm would hold and the axle would twist and brake before the torque arm failed. They are that nice.MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER wrote:Yup you are right.
but this can handle the H405 torque? how much newton does it has at 72V?
hehe. Yeah, about thatRix wrote: Trackman, I don't know why you waited this long to bet Mig torquarms. Get the one in the pic, with this arm design, this one puts the least amount of torque forces on your brake mount and maximizes mechanical leverage against the axle from spinning.
Rick
you have some very valid points rick. But I already got the short stubby one, let's see if it doesn't break. If it does break, for what ever reason, I'll get the long one. You bought these, right?Rix wrote:I think the short one will put more stress on the caliper mount because its shorter and mechanical advantage being polar oposite against the Caliper, but I don't think it matters because the caliper bracket is designed to lock up the wheel and stop it. But wait untill you get it. They are super sano and neither the short or long one will flex.
Rick
Thank you!Rix wrote:Off the top of my head, running 72 volts at 100 amps, got to be 180 NM or higher with a 26mtb wheel. I think the arm would hold and the axle would twist and brake before the torque arm failed. They are that nice.MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER wrote:Yup you are right.
but this can handle the H405 torque? how much newton does it has at 72V?
Rick
I actually don't think I will need a second torque arm, unless I go with more power.Rix wrote:Just got to get creative with the torque arm on the other side. This may involve cutting some extra steel flat bars and custom bending them to attach to the frame and the torque arm handle, but it can be done. Jay and I fudged my dads on his conversion and it worked great.
Rick
Yes, only sell your bike if you have plans for a newer and better build. Otherwise you could go by the way side for years before you have an Ebike again. Good luck in schoolTrackman417 wrote:I actually don't think I will need a second torque arm, unless I go with more power.Rix wrote:Just got to get creative with the torque arm on the other side. This may involve cutting some extra steel flat bars and custom bending them to attach to the frame and the torque arm handle, but it can be done. Jay and I fudged my dads on his conversion and it worked great.
Rick
I am finally dorming at RIT where me and grindz are looking to meet up. Just joined the ev club and they are looking into making an electric bike for the club alongside their electric super bike that will race in the TTGXP. Let's hope all goes well.
Looks like I won't be riding the bike for some time though. The next time I come home will be November. X-mas time will begin the start of a month long break. Then it's back to school. After that, I have a scheduled co-op over the summer. I can't see me riding the bike for any time longer then a half month for two years
. Thank god I disconnected the power cables to the controller or my batteries would have been sitting ducks. Might have to part the bike out. Will see what happens before that happens. Maybe I can find a way to haul it up here to Rochester? Eh, who knows. If anything comes out of me selling the bike will be a decent chunk of cash to start off building another bike
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Yeah very true and valid point. WIll only sell the bike if I need a good chunk of money.Rix wrote:
Yes, only sell your bike if you have plans for a newer and better build. Otherwise you could go by the way side for years before you have an Ebike again. Good luck in school
Rick
Trackman417 wrote:Yeah very true and valid point. WIll only sell the bike if I need a good chunk of money.Rix wrote:
Yes, only sell your bike if you have plans for a newer and better build. Otherwise you could go by the way side for years before you have an Ebike again. Good luck in school
Rick
In the mean time, this thread will most likely be put to rest until August or so. Still need to check out the status of my co-op situation and what not.
Keep in touch Rick, you were great help with me getting the 4065 and such. I can't thank you enough. We need to talk sometime this week after labor day though.
I do have a temp sensor, however I never hooked it up. So it mine as well be non-existent.Rix wrote:You're back Rob, glad to see it. I don't think your throttle/regen issue is from a short. Otherwise it wouldn't wait until your motor and controller are warm, do you have a temp sensor? If yes, that's where I would check first.