Cannondale eHooligan

V

Venus

1 mW
Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Messages
18
loose chain.jpgTopic was started to avoid a discussion in the "Before and After" thread.

Box is made from cabinet 3(?) mm plywood and covered with 3M carbon fiber look covering. If I were to do it again, I would varnish the wood several times prior to covering to get better adhesion. It the sun, the covering heats up and bubbles slightly as the adhesion to plywood is less than stellar. Also, this light shows the overlap of the layer of covering on the front of the box. If I had known it would show up so well I would have cut the covering more precisely. The batteries (Turnigy 20C 5 Ah) are wired 3p then 6s/2s/6s =14s to allow balance charging via the 1420 Hyperion. 14s is a royal pain for wiring but just right on the HS3548. The batteries are taped/zip tied into two bricks then zip tied to the frame crossbar. The box is purely asthetic and gives zero structure allowing for the lightweight build. My DB15 balancing harness could have been made 5 cm longer too but I really don't want to do that job again.

I am still waiting on a keyswitch so the the jumper ignition wire going to the dedicated charging Andersons is temporary.
 
Nice Battery Box!


I'm lov'n the zip ties! lol :)

What would we do without them? More Duct Tape! :)

Tommy L sends.... \\m//
 
Thank you Venus for answering my question.

Venus said:
The box is purely asthetic and gives zero structure allowing for the lightweight build.
Click to expand...
Is the box attached to the battery or to the frame? How is it attached?
 
Battery wiring 14S to VGA.pngThe box was sanded to a very snug fit over the crossbar. It is snug on the lower triangle and stays in position with friction only. The cover is a held on with 8 RC modelling rare earth magnets often used for battery covers on RC planes.

I was asked about the 14s wiring. Here is an initial layout I was using to get my head around the wiring. I built this way to be able to always balance charge and never unhook the controller. I didn't like the VGA plug once I cut it open (wasted 15 euro on that experiment!) and went with the tried and true DB15 solution. I also eliminated the JST connection between the parralleling part of the harness and the DB15 plug. I don't have any actual pictures of the harness and don't want to disassemble the bike right now.
 
where did you get the carbon fiber-looking covering? This is actually a really respectable way to dress up a wooden box to look a little more finished. Nicely done.
 
Ebay of course! Tons to pick from. I went with this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290702255597?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 
I have about 300kms on the eHooligan now. I have been trying to calibrate my CA. If I set Rshunt to 1.5 mOhms, energy used is pretty close to energy required to recharge to 95%. Sounds good right? What I don't understand is I programed the Lyen 12 Fet for 45 battery amps with a CA limit of 55 amps. It will overshoot the CA limit by 5+Amps and then settle down to accelerate up the steepest hills I have at 55amps. In other words the programed 45 seems to have no effect.

If I set Rshunt to 2.2 mOhms it is pretty close to holding 45 amps going up the hills. BUT then a 42 km ride showing 7.8 Ahr used takes 10.5 Ahr to recharge.

My question, which technique should I use to calibrate my CA? I have no experience on high(er) powered ebikes so I really don't have a sense of whether this is 2.5 kw or 3.5kw acceleration. Either way, the bike goes great, it's more just I would like to know how much power I am actually using. I suspect the answer is energy used should equal energy to charge....

Thanks,
Greg
 
Here's the manufacturer's recommendation:
I just got a Direct Plug-in Cycle Analyst, but how do I know the RShunt value of my controller?

Ideally, you will have some other current reference and then you can compare the readings on the CA with the known readings of another amp or amp-hour meter. So if the Cycle Analyst says 27 amps while a reference shows 19 amps, then the CA's RShunt value needs to be increased by 27/19 = 42% higher. By default it is set to 1.000 mOhm, in which case the correct value for RShunt would be 1.42 mOhm. If you don't have another current reference, then you can get a decent calibration value based on the current limit of the controller. Look at your continuous amperage draw (second screen) while riding low speeds at full throttle. If the CA says 53 amps while your motor controller is limitted to 20 amps, then your best guess for RShunt is 53/20 = 2.65 mOhm.

The exact value of RShunt can vary quite a bit from controller to controller even from the same manufacturer and batch. The 6 mosfet Infineon controllers are typically between 5-6 mOhm, the 12 mosfet controllers are more often between 2.5-3.5 mOhm. Crystalyte controllers can range from 1.1 mOhm to about 2.6 mOhm. The eZee controllers are usually between 1.3 - 1.6 mOhm.
Click to expand...
http://ebike.ca/drainbrain.shtml

Venus said:
I suspect the answer is energy used should equal energy to charge....
Click to expand...
Close. Energy to charge is always a little more than energy used. Plus how accurate is the charger measurement?
 
If you lower the value of" InstA" in your CA your can speed up the responce time to exceeding the set Amps limit, with the default value there will be some over shoot before any limiting has an effect.

Also if "Iterm min" is set to high the limiting function cannot lower the throttle signal enough to have any effect, this one has caught me out before!!

Nice looking bike!
 
SamTexas, thanks for the gentle reminder to read the manual.

Of the two options, the higher Rshunt value was what I was hoping was more correct. This means I am using less of my battery than I thought. 2.5 Kw feels great, I can't imagine those of you putting 10+ Kw through small wheels!

I finally got my rear disk installed. It isn't really necessary with the regen, but it was bothering me to have a lever doing nothing. I had to repostion the brake side torque arm. I am still waiting on my key switch and will be installing a kill switch on the handlebars. Otherwise, it is nearly for perfect...for now. (Will probably up the Amps to feel more power in a bit)
 

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That's a cool looking bike. Is that frame meant for 20" tires? Looks like the pedals would come pretty close to the ground. Any issues with pedal striking?
 
Hey Venus, that's a cool looking bike. Is this your first build? Very tidy.
I really like the funky geometry of the hooligan and its Uberstrong to boot.

Great stuff.
 
I previously used a cheap kids BMX to test everything out and determine 14S is much better than 12S. But it was only a temporary build, so yes my first "real" build. Unfortunately, it only makes me want to build another. (wife shakes head in disgust)

Yes the Hooligan is a 20" bike with disc brakes. Only one I was able to find. I have never had a pedal strike and it sits higher than stock with the Holy roller tires.
 
Latest picture after about 1000 km. Weight aft makes it easier to pedal and feels more powerful! Very wheelie prone though.

Gearing now 53/13 for good pedalling until about 35kmph. I left the 48 chainring on so I can manually change to 48/18 if I breakdown and have to pedal home.

The handlebar basket combo and lefty fork take the focus off the electric aspect. In speed 1 (25 kmph) I can more or less blend in with just a "weird looking city bike". Of course speed 3 at 55-60 (tucked down) I turn lots of heads.
 

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I've got an e-hooli 8speed, with a Cute 100 front on it. This has a double front fork, not the lefty. For those interested in pedalling it over 20mph, I found that it was able to accept a 60T front chainring with about 1/4" clearance from the frame, with the stock crank spider. I took off the double bashguard, and made a simpleinner/outer chainkeeper for the front ring. The bike looks very cool with the monster ring on it. I got a "Vuelta" chainring, from hostelshoppe.com, as I recall. These bikes are a very fun ride for "urban" - very nimble and good balance, and the small wheels accelerate very well. Very aggressive. The frame is very stiff. Lots of room for a Big Apple on the back, and a hookworm on the front.
 
Thanks for the info on the 60 tooth. I should have gone bigger than the 53 in hindsight. I was running 53/11 but found the 11 tooth very rough running. Do you have any pictures of your Hooli. They are a fun bike!
 
Here's the bike:

P4130099.JPG

Another shot:

P4130100.JPG

Some features of the bike include:

Replaced Tektra Novella with Avid BB7 - much better brakes. The Tekros sucked.
Satori Stem extender gave me three more inches of stem.
60T Vuelta ring on stock crank spider
Q100 328rpm 36V overvolted to 48V Headway pack (48 10Ahr)...found a nice small collapsible wire basket that perfectly holds the Headway pack which is inside a small cooler.
I can cover the whole battery setup in the rain, with a pannier cover.
BMS doesn't get hot in the pack.
KU63 controller.
Dual torque arms (eyelet type from ebikes.ca)
No chain drop with the homemade chainkeeper...basically a bent over piece of rack stay material pipe clamped around the downtube, with another piece of the material bent and screwed on, so the chain is perfectly trapped with no room to escape either sideways or up.
Big Apple 406 - 2.0" on back. Maxxis Hookworm on front.
And a "Butt Buddy" seatpost shock - you can see it just under the seat...that gave me another couple of inches on the post. I'm 6'0"" tall. A small bike for a big guy.
But it all works now, with the seatpost shock/extender, and the Satori stem extension.

Lovely bike. It's hard to keep me off this thing for Hooli'ing around town. And I hunted a few roadies today on my "clown bike"...
 
Looks good. I mainly use regen to brake so the brakes are fine for now..plus it is very flat here. I find myself wanting another Hooligan just to have one non motorized!
 
Yes, I am already considering the camouflage aspects of a front mounted battery. I will probably hide it in a case of beer.
 
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