great! you've got 24" rims. i think that's a good call w/ this motor, triangle and your terrain. you may still need to drill holes.
i don't think you need to relace, not yet anyway. my hs3540 motor has a bigger offset that than that one. cripes, i need to index my own thread. i can't find anything. i'm not sure if you've been following my saga, but i really wanted a top notch lace job in hs3540, so had ilia from ebikessf.com lace it up in a DH Psycho rim. but when i got it, the triangle offset caused the rim alone, w/o even a tire, to rub the frame. but the easy solution was to remove both sidecovers, push the stator out, flip it over, and put the sidecovers back on the way that they will fit. you may notice a wobble now, even though the motor was already trued, but that will only be cosmetic i think, as they will already have been tensionned properly.
you don't want to get new spokes and relace it if you can avoid it...
so the question for you, is that motor offset like the hs3540?
it doesn't hurt to try anyway. you should probably drill holes in the sidecovers anyway. and before you remove the sidecovers for the first time, make unique notches where each side meet the magnet ring, so later you can replace it in the exact spot. you could try marker but it will wipe off before you're done.
ok, i found this horribly narrated vid which might help a bit:
[youtube]SFIiPAsJC_E[/youtube]
other stuff
here.
dan974 said:
I already got the spacers for the brake calipter and the freewheel , do you sthink I will have to put a big spacer behind the freewheel and hub motor to align it with the front crank set ? so in this case I need to relace...no choice...so flipping it to relace is this what you mean ?
i'm not sure what you're asking... spacers for brake caliper are to align the calipers with disc, whereever it ends up, though you've only got a certain amount of range. spacer behind the freewheel? for some motors, certainly the hs3540, the freewheel spacer is not an option, it is a requirement. if you don't add one before screwing on the freewheel, your pedal action will tighten the freewheel until it freezes against the motor and my rastaman, it will no longer be free, aye.
as for the front chainring, you should not have a problem with the chain lining up - it's designed to move between those gears so a few mm either way won't matter. you may have an issue w/ chain rub on the chainstay on the smallest 11T cog, but some plastic type wrap on the chainstay ought to fix that.