29er MTB build

Hello Guys

First of all i love this forum and i learning a lot from it , its a great insperation for me the see al these build threads.
So iam staring , to begin a thread bymeself , to show you guys the progress share info.
Btw iam from Holland so my english is not that good

So my project is to build is to build a fast 29er mtb.

My present bike is a city bike is a Vpower 500w front motor and 48V 10ah accu . see pic.

But the bike got a bit boring and wanted something more powerfull and with good brakes and suspensoin on it, so my plan is to build power/fast 29er mtb and clean build.
I open this thread this share information and making pictures of the progress. and the most important thing to give me some feedback and advice

Here is my shopping list :

- mountainbike 29er MErida 300c ( got it )
- Motor Crystallyte HS3540 (got it)
- Freewheel 9t
- 12 FET 4110 MOSFET MK2 sensorless Controller LYEN Edition : (on its way from the usa to holland
- cycle analyst ( on its way )
- Frame bag falconev ( got it )

- 6x zippy 6s5000mah Lipo 18s2p setup
- 75V charger (got it )
- 3x battery medics balancer ( must order it )

- I still need to order some good connectors ( lipo harness) to set up my zippy in a 18s2p setup. Maybe you guys have some advice here here.
- A good power full master switch .( stil looking for it )

I will keep this updated i wil post new pics when i make some progress

Hi Stefan,

Welkom op het Forum!

There is quite a lot of good information here, including some threads on connectors. I assume that you will put the Clyte into the rear wheel? Better make sure to have very good torque arms on both sides of the axle, otherwise it will spin out of the dropouts.

Also, going sensorless means that it may stutter a bit when starting up from standstill. Are you going to use a throttle (draaigashendel) or are you going for pedelec with a pas sensor? In both cases, the power of your Clyte with 18S lipo will be enough to wheellie the bike in no time. In case you go pedelec, you most certainly do NOT want to have full power to the motor as soon as you start pedalling. As the controller can not be programmed for a gradual increase in power, you will have to limit the current to a level where you can safely start pedalling. However, the controller can be programmed for a 3-speed switch. That means that you can program the controller to go slow in the 1st setting, faster in the 2nd, and fastest/full power in the 3rd. Just make sure not to start pedalling from standstill in 3rd speed, that is a fast way to end up on your back with the bike on top....

For a throttle it is a bit the same. Having the throttle directly connected to the controller will give you a very twitchy throttle. This means that with only a very small change in throttle, you will get a lot of change in speed. From 40 to 45kmh it is not so bad. From 5 to 10 kmh can be a real problem. I think the best way to solve this is to attach the throttle to your CA as a "current throttle" so that your throttle does not control velocity, but power. Much better to control your high power bike with that.

In a large wheel, any motor will overheat much faster than in a smaller wheel. In summer, your Clyte will heat up much faster than now as winter is coming. Therefore, now the risk for overheating is relatively low. However, try the ebike.ca simulator and see when the Clyte starts overheating. It would be a shame if you kill your motor due to overheating. Best solution is to open the motor, add a thermistor to the windings (a resistor that changes resistance with heat) and connect that to a nice screen that shows you the temperature of your motor. Stay below 130o Celsius and you should be fine.

There is much more, but I am tired and other people will have other views. Have fun, but be careful.

Iam working on my charging / battery setup.
I searched for connectors en a circuitbreaker/ protection .

And i Fount this one http://nl.farnell.com/merlin-gerin/c60hb163/mcb-63a-1pole-type-b/dp/1421059
Its a automatic circuit breaker 63A ''MERLIN GERIN - C60HB163 - MCB, 63A, 1POLE, TYPE-B''
Can this also be used for VDC applications like me 70VDC setup, and is 63A good enough to protect everything?

I also have designed this schematic for my setup . any comments are welcome

Hmm.

Connectors
I like the XT90 connectors because they are easy to solder and easy to link. Just make sure when soldering that the iron does not touch the casing. The casing melts relatively easily. Also, if you are going to ride in the rain, you will need to use heatshrink for the individual wire solder connections, and then apply larger heatshrink to cover both connections and part of the connector. Finally, if you connect the male and female connectors, they will easily disconnect. Therefore, during your ride, you should makes sure not to apply any force to the connection for fear of disconnection.

Circuit braker
When you connect the pack to the controller, a high current/voltage spike will occur due to the loading of the caps in the controller. I am not sure that a circuit braker will take care of this. I would prefer to use (1) a nice auto fuse, (2) a precharge resistor, and then (3) just connect using a nice big connector. But that is just me. Search ES for precharge resistors and fuses. Ebike.ca sells nice fuse holders, so you can just plugin whatever fuse you want. For >40A I would just connect two fuse holders in parallel, each containing a fuse of 30A or 40A.

Lipos
Your schema is nice. It does not show whether you will parallel each pair of 6S packs also on cell level. You may want to create a simple connector and make sure that all individual cells are paralleled as well. This will make it easier for the lipos while discharging.

I got my first problem

My freewheel is not working , how it supposed to work .

The freewheel cant turn backwords (reverse) without rotating the wheel.

Or in other words
When i will ride my bike and i stop pedaling, the freewheel supposed to stop rotating also , but my freewheel just keeps rotating so the chain wil fall off.
I got this freewheel and i just screw it on my hs3540 , did i forget something ? ?

http://shop.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16497&cat=276&page=1

Did you applied any lubricant to the rolling bearings inside the freewheel before you install it ?If not you have to spray it with non corrosive oil or any other oil you like and try to turn the freewheel with your hand.Apply more oil till it turns.Using a rag will help not making a mess

No i didnt do that . So Your advise is to turn of the freewheel, and spray some oil in the midle and then turn the freewheel back on it ?

stefan010 said:

No i didnt do that . So Your advise is to turn of the freewheel, and spray some oil in the midle and then turn the freewheel back on it ?

Click to expand...

yes that's how i fixed my own because i also forgot to lubricate it before.the rolling bearings are located close to your motor.Good luck man

Did you add a washer between the hubmotor and the freewheel?

I forgot to add the washer the first time, therefore, the freewheel was bound to the hubmotor and would not rotate freely.

If so, remove the freewheel from the motor, add a washer around the axle, and then add the freewheel again. It should be able to rotate freely.

can you post close up pic of your freewheel/drop-out section? I think you have done something wrong (obviously) :wink:

hjns said:

Did you add a washer between the hubmotor and the freewheel?

I forgot to add the washer the first time, therefore, the freewheel was bound to the hubmotor and would not rotate freely.

If so, remove the freewheel from the motor, add a washer around the axle, and then add the freewheel again. It should be able to rotate freely.

Click to expand...

I didn't install a washer as well but my freewheel is turning after the care i described above.I tightened my freewheel with my hand and i didn't use any kind of tool.

Nice info to know about that washer anyhow.

I didnt have a freewheel removal tool, so i think i will tomorrow to the local bicycle repairman so he can take the freewheel of en solve this problem. i will keep you update tomorrow.

stefan010 said:

I didnt have a freewheel removal tool, so i think i will tomorrow to the local bicycle repairman so he can take the freewheel of en solve this problem. i will keep you update tomorrow.

Click to expand...

i seen them do it its a matter of one minute.i hope they don't charge you for this its so easy to do with the right tool.

I think this might just solve your problem. Remove the rear wheel out of your bike.
now, can you turn the freewheel? if you can, then freewheel isnt your problem.
if you cant, then is there gap between your highest gear and the hub?
if yes then bearing on the freewheel must be stuck. if not, your need to get a spacer for your freewheel.

try this before you brake anything...

For the HT, Methods provided me with a freewheel removal tool. I think Grin has one as well.

The local bicycle repairman didnt have the right tool , to remoce the freewheel so i thinks its better to order that tool(s) my self .

So wich tools do i need ?

Is this tool good enough to remove the sunrace freewheel. ?
http://shop.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16149&cat=269&page=1

Btw . the freewheel can move but its moves very hard. so i think the problem is in the bearings of the freewheel .

Hi man, i had the same trouble to, i got a freewheel frome ebike sf, lost the washer i thnk and put it on, didnt spin. spun sweet b4 i put it on, went to LBS and they took it off and gave me a plastic spacer its in one of my vids on my thread..

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44229

also a 29er with hub motor

I'm getting good results, I hope you get it sorted soon and post some progress pics.

i found another local mechnanic , and they took of my freewheel .
when the freewheels is of it seems to work properly , but when i turn it agian , the freewheels spins very bad.
We tried to put a ring on it see my pic (red circel) , but that dindnt make sense .
Then he tried another symano freewheel on it , and that freewheels works good. but i dont want that freewheel because is has 14t .
The mechanic didnt know a solution for it .

Must i put a ring somewhere else ? (See picture ? )

The washer needs to be around the threads - sitting between the hubmotor and the fixed part of the freewheel, so that the freewheeling part of the freewheel can wheel freely.

I isnt really clear for me where to put the spacer.
Must the spacer be on the yellow , red or green place?

Yellow . You should be able to use a plastic spacer. Ppl make them from PVC pipe but they should be readily available at a bike shop. Thin alloy ones might fit, I couldn't get the metal one to fit at the shop but a plastic one did. Its the biggest diameter of the 3 you identifiead. Goes against hub side plate.
Good luck

Well i recieved a spacer from the suplier, but eventually it didnt helped . So maybe the problem is in freewheel itself , i dont know it anymore. I think the best thing i can do is to visit the suplier itself so he can solve this problem.
I will keep you uptodate

Back to the battery pack..
it was mentioned..but them I saw no further mention of it. Are you planning to parallel the balance leads too on each pair of parallel pacsk?..you should..and DON'T leave the BM's connected all the time. they will pull down the first cell or two on each pack.they draw power from teh first cell or two. Only use them when needed.

Time for an update.

I got some time left in the weekend so i decided to built my parralel harness for my balancers . See the pics.

Hopefully the next weekend the real build can begin.
Because iam still waiting for a lot of parts to arrive.

any photos of the bike?
nice bms. what are they?