A2B Metro Help Needed, Lyen + Tesla Special

wymjymn

1 W
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
51
My stock controller went up in smoke a few months back. I read Edamane's posting and decided to emulate the conversion with some differences. I spoke with edamane and passed many emails back and forth.
I must say that without Edamane' help and support I would not be where I’m at today…so thanks go out to Edamane!
I pulled the stock controller and rewired the motor for a Lyen 12 FET ‘sensored’ controller. I found that when I got the motor reassembled it was still almost impossible to turn, I don’t know what was wrong but thankfully Edamane had a ‘spare’ one and he shipped it over. I cleaned it up and epoxied in the hall sensors and started to do the wiring when I received another email from Edamane..he had another stock controller that might be good. Well easier was better in my book so I awaited its delivery. I installed it but alas it was faulty…out it came and back to the wiring. By this point I was getting pretty good at pulling the motor apart. At any rate I wanted to maintain, as closely as possible, the original ‘minimalist look’ of the A2B, so with that in mind I retained the stock wiring and added extra wiring where necessary. I used the oem controller 4 pin din to handle the three hall sensor signal + the power. I added one 24 G for the sensor ground and one 10G for one of the phase wires. The entire wire bundle is a bit larger than stock but I’m satisfied with it.
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I utilized the stock wiring routing and only needed to drill one hole for an additional wire.
abwra.jpg

The wiring ‘bundle is quite tight within the frame, but it is serviceable if need be.
abwrb.jpg

The stock key/power switch is used and when I add a 72V rear pack I will be able to switch between them. (added distance by having the 36V as a ‘go home’ backup)
Edamane supplied me with some of his SS torque plates, I polished two of them and installed then into the frame hollow outs.
While at it I saw that I could add a bit better braking for cheap…so I installed a larger front rotor.
The controller is temporarily ‘zip tied’ in place. I’ll be testing the phase/hall relationship and when satisfied I plan on mounting it is the same general location but with an aluminum front extension that will cover the wiring which will be inside this extension and enclosed in a rubber boot affair. The rear oem battery pack will still fit and I plan on using it to house the 72V pack.
I would also like to thank Edward Lyen for his patience and support.
I will be testing and adjusting over the next few days. The initial ride was good but not thrilling. The oem ‘soft start’ is gone…that is a good thing. The motor seems quieter, the initial torque surge is improved over stock…I only rode it @ ¼ mile so further testing is needed before I try to hammer it while still using the stock 36V battery pack.
I am not using the regen and will wait until I have the 72V pack to implement that function.
I received a 3 speed switch but just like the regen…will wait until I have more Volts to play with.
So…to summarize, my stock controller went up in smoke and for less than $300.00 I’m back on the road with improvements and with the potential for an exciting 72V ebike!

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wj
 
A2B help needed!
I had my frame battery pack rebuilt using Tesla cells but the builder failed to return the original screws/nuts and Plastic Stanchions that position and hold the bms within the casing. It doesn’t appear as if I’ll ever have them returned so I’m in need of (at least) the plastic stanchions. If someone has an old frame pack that is of no use to them I would really appreciate it if I could obtain those pieces, I’m happy to pay for them…or I’ll buy the entire casing+ bms (I don’t care about the cells).
Please PM if you can help.
Thanks in advance
wj

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