just opened the Lyen 18x4115 fet controller and had a sus.. it looks prety good, already has beefed up tracks (neg, pos, and 3 phase) looks like a solid piece of copper wire was layed over and a TON over solder melted on there so i think if i added any more it would be excesive. I did add some Unick thermal paste to the fet block that presses against the heatsink shell/box/case cos it was very minimal. I will probably add a thermostat with buzzer so i know if its getting stressed. most controllers dont seem to get too hot b4 the motor does. so ill probly use about 70ºC alarm temp. the delay in heat to the thermostat from the components(fets) getting hot needs to be compensated for by having a lower temp switch IMO. its no use having the buzzer go off when it gets to 100ºC when the fets are 150ºC . so there may be a few false alarms when doing long hills but at least i wont kill it or if i do it will be my own fault.
anyway, i'm still waiting for the batteries and the battery box lid to be redone. i have to order a few conectors and a couple battery monitors, the 2 spare i have are unavailable from HK atm so ill get 2 others that do the same, would like to be all the same, but haveing 2 diferent monitors could be of some use if 1 starts to play up.
so what i still have to do..
- Open the hub and thermostat the halls, t9 spray the stator, vent the side plates. (to do this i need a gear puller but dont know where to get a big enough one so might conect it to screws on the disk mount and mdf or something screwed onto gear side freewheel thread.)
-Rear light, should be easy. 5 x3w leds epoxyed to aluminium plate.
-program controller, not sure if i should try it first with Lyens specs or just go for it and try my own.
-start welding the frame, have to cut off old steer tube housing and weld on new one, cut frame down tube and weld in battery box.
-make a second torque arm, might just make it a small one that uses the bolt hole on the drop out.
- order new bar,head stem,wheel,203mmdisk brake and a few other bits from CRC
-Get some epoxy spray paint.
-CA V3 and 7 speed 11-32 from ebike.ca
Its a bit anoying not having all the parts here at once. I dont need them all but I'm hesitant to really get stuck into it without being able to mesure diferent parts that have to fit together etc, make sure its all compatible.
I should bite the bullet and do the battery box and open the motor. after that i can see how the controller sits under the batteries or on the top tube.
I'm hesitant to cut off the steer tube housing b4 i get new head stem and handle bar.
---- just checked my shoping list on crc, the wheel i was waiting for is now available so i ordered up on everything i need.
DMR factory front wheel
HYENA high power ebike kits
Only Irish coffee provides in a glass all four essential food groups: alcohol, caffeine, sugar, and fat 
) anyway.. the only thing i havent decided on is if i should have them angled or straight out. angled would be better for air turbine / centrifugal, and straight seems like it would be stronger and better for venturi effect at the top of the hub where air is moving across the vents the fastest.
You might want to save your money and stick with it.
..... bad habbit, its gotta stop lol
