mon-goose to MON-STER

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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 11 2013 4:47pm

Hyena wrote:Ah I missed the bit earlier where you planned to mod the frame. I thought you'd stacked it and snapped it at first!
And now that it's welded like that I'd be all the more cautious of that happening :lol:
I'm no pro welder myself but I'd be a bit shy of riding it hard or at speed. I'd be inclined to put a gussett on it too, in that gap on the underside.
What are you using for the head tube ? Looks somewhat oversized! I can't see a headset, have you just use bearings with an OD to suit the tube and ID to suit the steerer ?
Bearings - correct. Head tube is some
at tube that fit the fat bearings. Was good to smash 10 or so arc rods into it. Gusset? Please explain...
I have that triangle piece there. I think the steer tube will now be the weakest part up front. Yeah the welds are ugly but meh.
Btw IRS 1.5" steer tube..
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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by Hyena » Mar 11 2013 5:27pm

For the gusset I meant something like this
Though in your case more just on the underside.
It'll probably be right, I'd just be worried about it braking at speed. It's steel though right ?

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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 11 2013 8:41pm

Oh OK yeah I see what you mean, yeah I was thinking something similar. Its hard to see side on but the head tube is 73mm dia and the frame is 40 or so, so the side plates would have had to be bent with curve to go around head tube. I did some seam welds and went over it and over it 'cos im worried if it brakes it could be catastrofic and that would be really bad if it was my gf or a mate riding. I'll do I suspension / weld test video soon. It rides easy with no hands now.

I got get the new wheels on and connect new gear lever and cut frame for battery box(350x120x120mm) lid underneath hinged at front.

Also yes it is steel. :)
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 13 2013 6:39am

good night mongoose.JPG
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gear brake throttle.JPG
gear brake throttle.JPG (35.18 KiB) Viewed 2265 times
got front wheel on with dh tube in and crazy bob tyre. got the 203mm disk and caliper on (unfortunately the disk is bent a mm or so, and got the gear lever set up. I had to file and bend the finger lever so it could activate before hitting the throttle shell. it wasnt too much hastle and im glad i got it set up like a have, it feels nice and natural.
also got the big rim brakes on the rear and they are just enough to lock it up so as Hyena and others say, thats enough...
ran out of time to video the "harlem shake" weld test but i did thrash the f^ck out of it and its not going anywhere, i guess it looks better IRL than in photo.
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 16 2013 5:33am

IMG04.JPG
IMG04.JPG (60.62 KiB) Viewed 2212 times
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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by Trackman417 » Mar 16 2013 6:51am

pendragon8000 wrote:
IMG04.JPG
We don't need any of this grainy pic business. We need some real photos. :D
Did you weld this metal plates on as well? What ever you did it looks pretty cool mate. I'm rather jealous you can weld your stuff. What I would for with a welder.
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 16 2013 7:22am

Trackman417 wrote:
pendragon8000 wrote:
The attachment IMG04.JPG is no longer available
We don't need any of this grainy pic business. We need some real photos. :D
Did you weld this metal plates on as well? What ever you did it looks pretty cool mate. I'm rather jealous you can weld your stuff. What I would for with a welder.
IMG904.JPG
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there you go trackman, my welds are arc so its with the rod in the handle type. i have trouble getting a consistent weld and it gives me the F^CKING SHITS but i persist and just use more and more rods till im sure it will hold. its good when the metal gets red hot cos then the bond is going to be good but its close to burning a hole through the metal and takes so much concentration and patients. one side is nice and neat and small weld but the other i though it wasnt enough on the first so i tried to make it thicker and started burning hols in the frame and ahh man, i need to get a mig welder, but anyway ill just throw a few rods in there and make it work then grind it back to look half decent and spary epoxy paint on there and no one will know, (except all you ES crew) :)
I reakon its looking prety cool.
WHEEL BASE 117CM
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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by t3sla » Mar 16 2013 8:02am

Your LEDs blew because you can't run them at that power rating without a constant current, constant voltage pulse modulated source CC,CV,PWM.
They aren't an 'analog' bulb that can just have volts thrown at it.

You would need typically need something like this to drive them
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-10W-XML-T6 ... 20ce34fd83

Led driver.
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 16 2013 8:29am

t3sla wrote:Your LEDs blew because you can't run them at that power rating without a constant current, constant voltage pulse modulated source CC,CV,PWM.
They aren't an 'analog' bulb that can just have volts thrown at it.

You would need typically need something like this to drive them
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-10W-XML-T6 ... 20ce34fd83

Led driver.
cheers mate, yeah i know leds dont like just straight up voltage, especially from a cheap(ish) psu but i have a rear light on my spark thats got leds running at (suposedly)2.4v each 5 in series on 12v... not ideal but its had 1000km with that light going and seems fine. I think if using a plug pack or dc-dc with no constant current led driver it needs to be very reserved in voltage per LED.
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 16 2013 8:40am

marked for cutting.JPG
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cuterizification comlete.JPG
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thought i better chuk these up so you can see whats going on.. the battery box is a folded chanel 350x120x120mm put into the frame open side down. unconventional but imo stronger.
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my bike goes so fast 'cos it charges the battery while I pedal

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by ev tocak » Mar 16 2013 4:21pm

pendragon8000 wrote:
Trackman417 wrote:
pendragon8000 wrote:
IMG04.JPG
We don't need any of this grainy pic business. We need some real photos. :D
Did you weld this metal plates on as well? What ever you did it looks pretty cool mate. I'm rather jealous you can weld your stuff. What I would for with a welder.
IMG904.JPG
there you go trackman, my welds are arc so its with the rod in the handle type. i have trouble getting a consistent weld and it gives me the F^CKING SHITS but i persist and just use more and more rods till im sure it will hold. its good when the metal gets red hot cos then the bond is going to be good but its close to burning a hole through the metal and takes so much concentration and patients. one side is nice and neat and small weld but the other i though it wasnt enough on the first so i tried to make it thicker and started burning hols in the frame and ahh man, i need to get a mig welder, but anyway ill just throw a few rods in there and make it work then grind it back to look half decent and spary epoxy paint on there and no one will know, (except all you ES crew) :)
I reakon its looking prety cool.
WHEEL BASE 117CM


Hi there, from what i see your welds look cold ,may be that electrodes you are using are too thick or the low amps setting on the welder.Those holes in the weld are from slag ,you have to clean all those spots(use something like screwdriver tip ) because simply welding over it wont help ,they will just become deeper .Or grind all of the weld on one side , preheat it using a torch if u have one it will reduce burning thru material .When welding tilt the electrode 30" and slowly move it in one direction as it melts ,stop when its about half used up .If u have not covered whole joint ,finish it by welding with another electrode from the opposite direction until the two ends meet . :wink:

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 16 2013 6:38pm

ev tocak wrote:
Hi there, from what i see your welds look cold ,may be that electrodes you are using are too thick or the low amps setting on the welder.Those holes in the weld are from slag ,you have to clean all those spots(use something like screwdriver tip ) because simply welding over it wont help ,they will just become deeper .Or grind all of the weld on one side , preheat it using a torch if u have one it will reduce burning thru material .When welding tilt the electrode 30" and slowly move it in one direction as it melts ,stop when its about half used up .If u have not covered whole joint ,finish it by welding with another electrode from the opposite direction until the two ends meet . :wink:
Thanks Ev tocak, I do clean it up with hammer then wire wheel. I've been trying a few different techniques. I like the preheating the metal idea. I have 2mm general purpose rods and the metal is 2mm (bike frame is just under 2mm)
Thanks for your help :)
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 18 2013 6:59am

Still welding. Omg :roll:
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 19 2013 5:51am

Got my CA v3 today :) :) and 10 x 6s balance cable paralel leads to make up my harness.
I decided to use the silicone coated 10g wires from hobby king. I compared them to the phase wires on the ht3525 and they are significantly thicker and have a nice dense core(not your average wire). I hope 3m of each (black and red)is enough to go around.
Also having second thoughts about where to mount controller.
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 23 2013 7:40am

TEST RIDE no power yet... look no hands :)
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my bike goes so fast 'cos it charges the battery while I pedal

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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 23 2013 7:57am

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1KWH 8)
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scott 29er + Hyena kit, mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW, Free Agent RC Mid Drive, videos

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 24 2013 4:58am

lipo stash box.JPG
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carb loading,,, please wait.JPG
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The blue foam is from a cheap camping matress thing, its 12mm thick and feels slightly on the dense/hard side for the 8kg battery pack but atleast it wont rip and wear. i had to replace the side pieces with some thiner low density foam but that should be ok as its probably the least impact dimension.
so its gunna be a bit tight in there but it will accomidate the 8 blocks of lipo and 4 lvc beepers.
next:
-upgrade some wires to 10g
-clean and enamel coat controller pcb
-make the series plug with black nylon blocks and 10mm gold plugs
-change hall plugs and make wires longer
-mount and setup Cycle Analyst v3

that will get it going
then:
-make second torque arm
-triangle brace batery box at ends to frame for extra strength for when i get mental @ 6KW
-reinforce steer tube bearings a bit more for same reason as above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
-install lights, still have to make the rear.. might do that now while i get my beer on :)
beer boobs.JPG
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geting heavy man.JPG
geting heavy man.JPG (44.61 KiB) Viewed 2059 times
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pendragon8000   1 MW

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 27 2013 6:51am

after i eventually over took this guy i spent the night soldering and such. so tired now..
(note petrol motor and thongs 38kph wtf?) :shock:
ICE + thongs.JPG
ICE + thongs.JPG (22.93 KiB) Viewed 2007 times
so i used some tricks from ES member "Methods"
like it ows me money.JPG
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iclear insulation.JPG
iclear insulation.JPG (41.98 KiB) Viewed 2007 times
new plugs.JPG
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i also added a 4khz buzzer to a 70 ºC no thermostat in series with a 1k 1watt resister. got warm at 100v but seemed like it should be fine, it would be hot already anyway at by the time it turns on.. meh.. sory no photo of how i tucked it in the controller shell just wanted that to be over, getting sooo tired right now.. anyway.. the phase wires on the motor have the 8-10mm plugs on there and just need the 6 pin phase+temp plug on it then can run a test spin up..
goodnight es crew :/ zzz
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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by t3sla » Mar 27 2013 7:56am

frock me, i'm terrified and impressed.
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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by Ozjet » Mar 27 2013 8:26am

Hey, that's all coming on well.
Just thought I'd mention something I remember an old boss telling me about welding.
This is after telling him I could weld to get a job doing garage doors. (welding back thick safety chains to a Howard slasher was all I had done) he chucked me on his front lawn with a 9" grinder and small cig welder with only 2 settings for rod diameter and a bunch of 30mm, 50mm/19mm gal rhs, told me to build 5meter x 2 metre panels for T fitting type garage doors with 19 mm truss top and bottom I realised welding could be a heartbreaking type of career.
Anyway I finished up building heaps of them n gates , tilt doors ,whatever. Finished up I always used the welder on the higher setting. Just do a bit at a time like one second hits, looking through the glass watch the red glow dissipate after you stop( only a second or so aswell)then hit it again one second or so. That will still be hot enough to continue the weld without it starting on the slag but letting it cool just enough to hang in . It is a pretty fine line.
No joy having it set low enough to try to do it continually. Hotter - better . I recon on the little inverter I have now its usually around 100/110A with 2mm rods welding 1.6mm stuff.
You can see on the pic looking into your battrey box that there are sections that haven't had much heat.
I don't know heaps about it but that could be where cracks could start.
No smoking please.

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by spinningmagnets » Mar 27 2013 8:51am

After much thought and reading here, this is my new favorite place to put a battery pack. Plus, with a steel enclosure, a battery meltdown would produce smoke, but still allow plenty of time to remove the seat and wheels before it gets too bad...

Image

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by agniusm » Mar 27 2013 9:14am

I don't think its gonna get even warm with that much steel, thats like 1.5mm sheets, should weigh some, bomb proof :D
That welding is bad, very bad and not mean to be rude, i would take it to someone with MIG and do it properly. That's probably done with arc welder?

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 27 2013 2:07pm

Yay welding advice. Thanks all, but its a bit late.

Its 2mm. I had to straighten it up with a sledge hammer and normal hammer after the heat warped the box out of square. So for me that was proof enough of heat and strength (I was belting it fairly hard).

I have ridden it and will add more triangulation b4 I go WOT off the line.

Most of it is short blasts of swirl beads as sugested. I think the bike will be stronger than before , that was my goal.

I'll do some close ups ...
bottom of box.JPG
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my bike goes so fast 'cos it charges the battery while I pedal

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 28 2013 7:48am

spinningmagnets wrote:After much thought and reading here, this is my new favorite place to put a battery pack.
thanks :)
t3sla wrote:frock me, i'm terrified and impressed.
Cheers , terrified of?
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scott 29er + Hyena kit, mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW, Free Agent RC Mid Drive, videos

my bike goes so fast 'cos it charges the battery while I pedal

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Re: mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW

Post by pendragon8000 » Mar 28 2013 11:16pm

test spin up with new wires and plugs etc... something strange happens :shock:

so it running in reverse.. HELP anyone? im guessing i can swap 2 halls and 2 phases?
or look at the software.. I'd like to ride it stock (software) though while testing.
ill have a search around to find the answere but if anyone wants to jump in and help me out I'd really apriciate it. cheers
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scott 29er + Hyena kit, mon-goose to MON-STER 6KW, Free Agent RC Mid Drive, videos

my bike goes so fast 'cos it charges the battery while I pedal

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