Video of the Italians absolutely flogging their Cromotors

zombiess

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This video is awesome, they are really punishing the motors in those setups. The bikes look way fast in the videos. I'm not sure if they are running cooling holes in the motors or not, but they have some seriously nice builds. I had no idea that the normal 9.3KV motor could take this level of abuse in a 24-26" wheel as they are running them well over the 6kw rating... simply awesome watching him hover the front wheel from a high speed roll. Maybe I can get my high speed Cromotor running at +200A in an 18" wheel this weekend and click off some 70mph runs on video for people on here. Got a new battery harness to build... 24S3P 18AH Nanotech LiPo packs. Honestly, it scares and excites me thinking about riding my bike with over 20kW into this high speed motor.

Major props to the Superbiacs crew!

[youtube]RpjR1-Nb_oI[/youtube]
 
I saw that one a few weeks ago. What got me is how smooth it was from the shot back behind cranks. I wish I had smooth flat clean roads like that.
 
awesome :D
some technical infos as volts and amps would be nice to know.
what controller do they use? Looks like a Kelly on the bike with GoPro installed on the rear end of swingarm.
 
Hallo everybody, we linked this video in an other topic some times ago.
We have kelly KBL controller and greyborg motors v2.
My kelly is 150 ampere, while my friends have 250 ampere, but after I got new firmware from kelly, now my kelly pulls out peaks of 260-270 ampere!
I use 32s 12 ampere A123, my friends uses lipo 28s nanotech.
On yesterday we did a test on the grayborg v2.
Mine has not hole drilled on it yet, while my friend's greyborg has 5 big holes for side.
We run together the same 20 km on 38 celsius of external temperature, going fast with some wheelings and max speed. (40 wh\km)
When we arrived to destination we measured the motor temperature. Mine was 53 celsius degrees, my friend's drilled motor was 50.
After some minutes mine reached 63 degrees before going cool, while my friend reached 60 before going cool.
After the test of yesterday in estreme situation of hot weather temperature (for Italy average temperature), at the moment I think I will not drill holes on mine.
I remember my drilled greyborg v1 got more hot of new greyborg not drilled, so I'm quite sure that new graybor has better efficience of older one
 
Hallo boys...
We have different wheelset, i go with 26", other friend 24", i check the temp on the external ring of the motor, after stop running, and after 5-6 minute you can see the temp rise up and stop at max temp
Usually after hard running at 28S nanotech and 250+ battery amps, i see 60-63C on the external ring of the motor
The V2 of Cromotor is more efficient, and more cool than V1, we go often at 95-100kmh at 10-11kw continous withouth problem :)
 
You might have a somewhat rude awakening if you measure the temperature inside the motor, directly at the windings.

I have a NTC tucked in under the windings at the outer perimeter of my Cromotor V2, and it can read in excess of 125 degrees C and you can still touch the side covers and the rotor...
 
i read the windings too, many times over 130C, but this is not a problem, for melt insulating winding you have to go over 200C, problem is magnet if go over 85-90C, and i check always magnet :)
 
esoria said:
we go often at 95-100kmh at 10-11kw continous withouth problem :)

Esoria,
Be more careful in using the work "continuous". You guys don't carry enough battery for continuous operation at that power level. It's great to hear that the V2 has a better stator, so it can run more efficiently at higher rpm.


Peter,
You can't really compare your off road riding at much lower speeds and a constantly varying throttle position to our friends in Italy cruising along at good speed on flat roads without even being slowed by stop signs and traffic lights. Plus you're talking about lightweight guys on stock mountain bikes pushing low enough torque that they don't flip over backward. Not only does the V2 motor run at higher efficiency, but hubbies dissipate heat much better at higher rpm and with higher speed external air flow. More importantly though, they are running the motors in their prime band of operation.

The cause of most heat problems are too many full stop or low speed takeoffs, where every acceleration starts at 0% or very low efficiency, running too long at high load and low speed, and/or running current limits too high.

Also, don't underestimate the value in measuring the temperature of the outside shell, especially when you include checking the what temperature does after you stop. Yes, the stator is hotter than the outside shell and that differential will vary with different motors, but Justin's thorough testing of hubbie cooling showed pretty clearly that if the outside shell stays below 60-70°C that the motor is safe from all but a bogged down condition which can burn up a motor in low tens of seconds.

There are an awful lot of claims thrown around ES without any context, and when it comes to performance of an ebike context is everything. Without the total load, terrain, and type of riding, performance measures are meaningless. The term that cracks me up the most is "wheelie machine". Some bikes are wheelie machines even with no motor. In fact, any bike that can be wheelied using the pedals should easily lift in front with any electric motor. I'm quite heavy at over 120kg, and all of my bikes are over 50kg. Plus I live in a mountainous country, so for street riding my equipment is tortured.

What I've found to be the hardest on our systems was quite a surprise to me though. That is riding in bumper-to-bumper stop-n-go traffic. In much of the downtown area of the capital city here, at times there can be no escape from traffic, even on a bicycle. Even with very soft low speed takeoffs, doing many repeated full stop starts can build up heat in a motor quite quickly. With each start beginning at 0% efficiency, even repeating just 100W at the wheel for a few seconds can require thousands of watts, and with the motor not spinning much all that waste heat doesn't dissipate well. If there's ever a time to use your pedals for motion, that's the time.

John
 
esoria said:
i read the windings too, many times over 130C, but this is not a problem, for melt insulating winding you have to go over 200C, problem is magnet if go over 85-90C, and i check always magnet :)

The better measure of the heat status of a motor is the stator steel. That's where the factory that builds my motors puts their thermistors, on the steel about 1cm from the copper. Measuring at the copper can lead to wrong conclusions, because it sees all of the short spikes in temperature. If the steel isn't already saturated with heat it will quickly sink the heat away from the copper. eg 130°C at the copper with the stator steel at 80°, verses 125°C at the copper and 110° at the steel, are 2 totally different conditions, and the one at 125° is on the verge of ruining the motor with heat damage.

John
 
Yes john, totally agree with you, for "continous" i would say for lot of time, for example when i see open road i go full throttle for 2-3km...sure not really "continuous" from full to empty pack :)
Go always at high speed, or from 50 to 100kmh, is alot more simple than 0 to 100, and sure the light bike\biker is the key... my bike is like 35kg, and me 70kg, with this weight and flat road you can do wat you want even with alot of KW :)
 
esoria said:
Yes john, totally agree with you, for "continous" i would say for lot of time, for example when i see open road i go full throttle for 2-3km...sure not really "continuous" from full to empty pack :)
Go always at high speed, or from 50 to 100kmh, is alot more simple than 0 to 100, and sure the light bike\biker is the key... my bike is like 35kg, and me 70kg, with this weight and flat road you can do wat you want even with alot of KW :)

You need a bigger battery pack. I can cover 2.5km in one minute and still have 1.5kwh plus reserve for plenty of riding around. :mrgreen:

I can only dream about a 105kg all up load. I'm at 175-180kg now before loading my backpack, and I'm hoping to save weight in some areas with my next build to add back with motorcycle fork, wheels, and brakes. That's why I have to run 15-20kw just for the same performance as you guys. I can only imagine what my bike would be like with one of you guys riding it at 50kg less. :shock:

Once I have a nice stable of extreme ebikes you guys will have to come for a vacation and show me how to ride them.

John
 
Sure john, with pleasure we can come for a vacation! If you want to visitit Rome we are here :)
I see more power with 30kg less than with 5-6kw+, probably because our motor are near to saturation, and is better lighter veichle than pump more watt, and more watt want more battery, bigger motor ecc...
Mmmm...maybe i need to put a little 30kg child on my bike for maximum performance :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
John in CR said:
The better measure of the heat status of a motor is the stator steel. That's where the factory that builds my motors puts their thermistors, on the steel about 1cm from the copper. Measuring at the copper can lead to wrong conclusions, because it sees all of the short spikes in temperature. If the steel isn't already saturated with heat it will quickly sink the heat away from the copper. eg 130°C at the copper with the stator steel at 80°, verses 125°C at the copper and 110° at the steel, are 2 totally different conditions, and the one at 125° is on the verge of ruining the motor with heat damage.
John

Hi John,

While I agree with the theory, I do feel comforted that measuring Temp at the windings may result in a too high temperature due to the spikes, because this is on the conservative side.

I am currently modifying the Cromotor I recieved from HoV. I believe it is a V1 as HoV bought it around March 2012. I will add a thermistor both at the windings and on the stator, and try to log the temps in the CA logger. I am unsure how to measure and record cover temperatures, as the covers will obviously be rotating and I don't want to buy an IR sensor...

I will also add active fans on the stator, because I believe that my driving style justifies that. In contrast to those Italian guys, my commute is a lot of stop and go, and my mountain trails are slow and steep. Therefore, I believe blades on the hub cover will not provide enough flow at low rpms to keep my motor cool in my circumstances.

Anyway, impressive video from the Italian guys, at roasting ambient temperatures.... 8)
 
hjns said:
John in CR said:
I will add a thermistor both at the windings and on the stator, and try to log the temps in the CA logger.

I think the CA can only read out ONE thermistor and the CA-LOG doesn't have any more thermistor inputs? :?
 
madin88 said:
hjns said:
John in CR said:
I will add a thermistor both at the windings and on the stator, and try to log the temps in the CA logger.

I think the CA can only read out ONE thermistor and the CA-LOG doesn't have any more thermistor inputs? :?

The CA logger can read 2 thermistors.
 
hjns said:
The CA logger can read 2 thermistors.

You are right. I couldn't see the inputs on the pics but its declared in the manual.
buut, can you see the temp on the CA display or will it only be saved on the SD card of the logger?

If you cannot see it on the CA display and watch over the temp (throttle down), i think its useless...
 
madin88 said:
You are right. I couldn't see the inputs on the pics but its declared in the manual.
buut, can you see the temp on the CA display or will it only be saved on the SD card of the logger?

If you cannot see it on the CA display and watch over the temp (throttle down), i think its useless...

There are no inputs on the CA logger, only connection pads on the PCB.

The temps will be saved on the SD card of the logger. I will make a vid like in this thread, however with separate temperature gauges for stator temp and winding temp. Of course, it will be also relatively easy to make graphs out of it, but I like videos better.
 
nice vid and software :)

yes it would be very useful to know how winding temp compares to stator temp. I have my thermistor installed to the windings. keep us informed!

br
 
This is fun, but also scary.
Today I had a little accident with my 1500W-50kph bike. I went on the main road and a car cut in front of me from a side street. The driver simply did not notice me. I hit the car on the side, it got a small dent and its review mirror broke down. I only have a few bruises fortunately.
I'm telling this, because on the streets there are always some variables you cannot control. Ebikes are quiet and fast, and drivers are not used to it. If people apply more and more power and speed, then sooner or later some of them will hurt seriously or die. It seems logical... So be careful and know what you are doing.
 
peters said:
This is fun, but also scary.
Today I had a little accident with my 1500W-50kph bike. I went on the main road and a car cut in front of me from a side street. The driver simply did not notice me. I hit the car on the side, it got a small dent and its review mirror broke down. I only have a few bruises fortunately.
I'm telling this, because on the streets there are always some variables you cannot control. Ebikes are quiet and fast, and drivers are not used to it. If people apply more and more power and speed, then sooner or later some of them will hurt seriously or die. It seems logical... So be careful and know what you are doing.



Absolutely YES, we do this street run not very often, and we always have 1000 eyes on the road, me and other friends have a history on motorbike racing too, my GSX-R 750 is fun....but my Ebike with Cromotor is More fun :))))

When we go to close road or cart circuit we push more hard, we want to try 20" wheel on Cromotor, because with 26-24" is not ideal in racing application, when you do ON-OFF with more than 20kw, and with more than 8kw of regen :)
 
esoria said:
Absolutely YES, we do this street run not very often, and we always have 1000 eyes on the road, me and other friends have a history on motorbike racing too, my GSX-R 750 is fun....but my Ebike with Cromotor is More fun :))))

When we go to close road or cart circuit we push more hard, we want to try 20" wheel on Cromotor, because with 26-24" is not ideal in racing application, when you do ON-OFF with more than 20kw, and with more than 8kw of regen :)

If you are going to go small, use 16 or 17 inch moped wheels. You will be blown away at how much faster the bike is. 16in moped with a 90/90 r16 or a 2.75 r16 or the same in 17 inch will get you to almost 100km/hr at 125v. My 16 in setup went 100km/hr on 125v and it only takes about 65a to hold that speed. If you set 150a at 125v be ready for a very violent and fun experience. Just watch some of my cromotor videos on YouTube where I race cars that are already moving at speed and I am at a complete stop when I start.
 
esoria, can you post a pic of how/where 32s a123 is mounted to the bike?
Thanks
 
Is a bike of my friend, 32S A123, 12.5A :) 14kg
 

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