Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 09 2015 9:00pm

eTrike wrote:Fantastic mod! Are you able to move it down slightly to limit shading from the handlebar accessories? Perhaps a front kick stand or stationary rack to tilt the panel a bit more towards the sky?
Thanks!
I originally did have it mounted lower, but the tops of my feet would kick it when pedalling. Even where it's mounted now my feet come real close to the bottom of it when sharply turning.

The more vertical angle it's on actually works quite well. It's winter here in Australia currently, so the sun doesn't get very high in the sky and the lower angle actually works well.
Today on my ride in I noticed I was still receiving a charge even when the sun was side on, nearly perpendicular to the panel. It seems to still function quite well at high/low, and side to side angles. It's just shade/cloud cover it doesn't like.

The current kick stand at the rear allows me to turn the front wheel to face the sun. The wheel tends to stay where ever I position it, so I just re-angle it at mid day from a north-east angle to a north-west angle. :)

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
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BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 09 2015 11:30pm

Thanks again eTrike. :)
I do hope I inspire others to follow suit. It's not hard, it's relatively cheap, and the benefits are 2 fold. :)
eTrike wrote:Would you be able to put two in a wedge shape for better aero, assuming you can mount them out in front away from your feet?
That was my original plan. There are 2 problems. First is, mounting it is more difficult...I would have make some kind of mounts to make that work. With the current setup, it's just 3 holes drilled, 2 bolts and 2 zip ties. The top bolt is the up-most built in drink bottle holder, the next one is the reflector mount with the reflector ripped off, and the bottom is an old rear mudguard mount with zip ties looping through a hole in the panel.
The second issue with 2 panels in a V is that it would still only get the same efficiency as one flat mounted panel most of the time. As mentioned before, steep angles don't reduce solar efficiency as much as I expected. At best with 2 panels in a V you might get 25% more power than one mounted flat IMO. The increased aero is also questionable if the total front facing height and width is the same. It might cut into the air better, but in terms of a cocoon effect around the rider, it would be the same.
eTrike wrote:I suspect if you were to mount the one module sideways it would get even better power output. I know most panels are affected largely by minimal shading, so please share the results of your tests at different orientations if you can. With the watt-meter it would only take a few minutes, eh? :D
To be honest I don't think I will bother. The width at present works well in terms of practicality. I often brush past trees, posts, doorway's etc, that would catch/hit any panel larger/wider than the current one. Practicality has to come first IMO, otherwise your forever being taken for a ride by the bike instead of you riding the bike. :)

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 17 2015 7:16am

So I'm a bit reluctant to admit this, but the other day when mounting my new Nylock washers I discovered my rear dropouts had spread a a bit.
I bent them back in somewhat, and mounted everything again as securely as I could manage, but I fear what might happen now if things continue.

So I'm looking for options. Clearly my current torque arms aren't doing enough.

One option I'm currently considering is this:
http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/cgi- ... key=DR1044
Image
I might have to hack saw/ grind parts off the extending arms and derailleur mount to get them to fit, but the idea is the fender/rack mount holes line up with the existing ones, so I can screw some bolts through, and I would also epoxy it onto the side of the existing aluminum dropouts. The combination of both should provide a secure bond and prevent movement.

If anyone has any better idea's, or a source for a more suitable dropout, so that I don't have to hack saw/grind anything, it would be greatly appreciated. :)

I think epoxying something that I could just epoxy on would be suitable also and require less stuffing around, but I haven't yet seen anything like that.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 17 2015 7:27am

I clearly didn't search or think well enough...

I see the same place sells these:
http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/cgi- ... key=DR4013
Image
They make one for the left side and one for the right.
The holes would not line up with my existing mounts, but (and this is the part I didn't think well enough about) I could easily drill some new holes in the area around my existing dropouts to bolt these into place.

Anyone see any issues with that?

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Alan B » Jun 17 2015 3:27pm

Sorry to hear about the dropout damage.

Here's what I did:

Image

Image

These are stainless steel Ebikes.ca torque arms and custom 6061-T6 aluminum torque struts that I custom made made to fit. If you analyze the force vectors the torque resolves into a force in toward the main material of the dropout, not against the sides. So it should not tend to spread the dropouts. Also the torque strut is custom made very tightly so things don't move much at all. The one side toward the torque arm is threaded so there's no need for a nut which would have chain clearance problems and it eliminates another source of play. The hole for the capscrew is drilled undersized and reamed to fit the screw precisely.

There's no regen here to worry about, but the torque of the gearmotor is fairly high. I'm not running over 1kW, but in a gearmotor that generates a lot of torque. I don't have a huge number of miles on it, but no problems noted so far. I'll remember to check carefully next time I work on the bike.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 17 2015 7:27pm

Thanks eTrike and Alan.

I should have mentioned...I am already using the V2 Grintech torque arms...TorqArm_V2:
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/t ... rm-v2.html
Image
These fit perfectly, and if I were running a geared hub motor I'm sure they would be fine. Alan, I don't understand why you needed to use custom torque strut. I found the included strut sits very tight...I don't think that's the source of the problem in my case.

The problem for me is Regen.
I desperately love my Regen, so I will try every option before I give it up.

TBH, I don't know why/how this happened...the torque arms are always in the same position I leave them in...and very tight. My nuts do loosen, but that's caused by the small rocking play I can hear and feel. I think the spreading may have occurred when I was playing around with different axle mounting positions. I was trying rotating the axle full forward to utilise the eyelet hole closer to the axle with my torque arms...I think I may have unknowingly spread the dropouts when forcing the axle to rotate with a spanner trying to get it to fit. :shock: :roll: :oops:

Either way, I still think epoxying/bolting on the dropouts linked above will help. I have found with my Stealth, that the single biggest pain point of my E-Bikes is the dropouts/ torque blocks/arms, etc. It's no coincidence that both my bikes have Regen also.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 17 2015 8:34pm

Found some dropouts I think might work a little better:
http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/cgi- ... key=DR1050
Image
These are actually front dropouts, but I think they will work quite well for my rear application. I might only be able to bolt on one of the holes, but the epoxy will also hold it tight.
The only thing I can't determine for sure is if the flats width is 10mm...but if it's not, it's probably 9mm which I could easily file/grind out to just under 10mm for a very tight fit. :)

Any thoughts from others?

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Alan B » Jun 17 2015 8:54pm

Have you analyzed the force vectors that result from your torque arm setup? The direction of these resulting forces needs to be considered when selecting the torque setup.

Regen does present additional challenges.

The torque from the gearmotor I'm using may actually be a little greater than the DD motor, but it is unidirectional. I do like variable regen on my Cromotor, but since it is variable it is much less jerky.

The torque struts they supply have slots, and slots don't provide the strict resistance to force that the struts do. I also use struts on my aluminum framed mountain bike and have had no problems there. With the torque struts there is no rocking that I've noticed.

The BikeE dropouts are steel as I recall, but they are a bit thin. Perhaps welding a plate onto them to make them thicker is the best answer. That would also make tire changes easier, the arms and struts add complexity to the tire changing process.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 17 2015 9:22pm

Thanks again Alan.

No I haven't analysed the force vectors...not sure how I would do that TBH, however considering I've tried nearly every possible combination of mounting the axle and torque arms, I don't see how knowing exactly where the torque force is occurring will help if I don't employ some additional clamping/securing methods anyway. The provided V2 struts may have slots, but I tightened the nuts to the point of rounding some of them...and can see indents in the strut from the mounting position...so I don't think they were moving. I'm pretty sure it's just the axle flats not being snug enough in the slots of the torque arm...that's why I tried pre-loading them in opposite directions, but even that failed.

What I do know is that the Regen - Acceleration force changes are significant. According to the simulator I'm pushing just under 60NM during peak, unrestricted acceleration. I don't normally push that much current though, and Regen normally only hit's half that current at most, so 30NM for Regen. So worst case that's a 90NM variance in torque from acceleration to Regen. That sounds like a lot to me. Is my thinking on track?

Alan, you might be right on the BikeE dropout's being steel...I didn't look very closely, but from the ease that they spread (and several niks and scratches I've made to the surrounding area), I had assumed they were aluminium...maybe they are mild steel.
I won't be welding anything as I don't have the tools, however I have some epoxy that claims to be as strong as a light weld, so that will have to do. The hard part will be ensuring everything lines up when the epoxy is setting...maybe I will need to do it with the wheel mounted.

Any thoughts on that dropout I linked above? It would require drilling a mounting hole, but I have no issue with that if it works. :)

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Alan B » Jun 17 2015 9:46pm

I just went back to page 3 and looked at the motor/torque arms. They look reasonable, acceleration torque is pushing the axle upward, like I have, but regen torque is pushing the axle down, out of the dropouts. If those slots slip at all then the axle will rotate and spread the dropouts. Are you certain they never move in the slots? At all? I just don't trust slots and surface friction, I've had serious problems with that on trailer hitches. Properly drilled holes work every time even if the hardware isn't completely tight. Completely tight hardware in a slot will slip at some point.

Check the dropouts with a magnet. I suspect they are soft steel. I just rechecked mine, they attracted a magnet so unless I have an aluminum attracting magnet they are steel.

Your torque estimates are about what I'd expect. If you are running through a CAv3 you might slow down the rates a bit, there's no value in hammering the bike and motor so hard it wants to wheelie. It just wastes energy and stresses things.

I think that bolting and epoxying to the dropouts can work. It can also fail. It requires a very close fit and proper surface preparation, and temperature control when glueing up. I'd put release on the axle components and bolt them in place for the best fit.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 30 2015 6:59am

I'm still working on the dropouts...I did order the ones above and spent a good chunk of the weekend grinding the 9mm flats so they would fit the 10mm axle flats. They now slot over ok, but I'm still to figure out the best way to mount them.
I tried positioning them so on of the fender mounts lined up with the existing fender mounts, which meant the axle wasn't quite all the way inside the dropout. It felt very solid, but when riding I could hear/feel movement worse than before.
I think the best/only way it will work is to drill a new hole in the existing dropouts that will allow a deeper axle mount position within the new dropouts, and epoxy them in place. I've ordered an M5 tap so I can tap the newly drilled hole to accept bolt and allow a snug fit. I would just use a longer bolt with a nut on the other side, but the other side on one side is right where the chain sits, so there isn't enough room to put a nut there.

Last night I re-arranged my LiPo pack so it didn't stick into my back through the seat which it had been since I changed it recently. Well for the second time ever...I plugged in the wrong thing :shock: :oops:
1 x melted 4mm HK Parallel harness
1 x melted 6x6S balance harness
1 x melted battery lead plug
1 x small fire I was able to blow out in my panic
The battery survived, and I was able to use a spare to replace it and finish my work. So thankfully not all that eventful, but a good reminder of the danger of LiPo + a million plugs! I can't wait to move away from LiPo like this and shift to 18650 packs for good.


In other news, I got my first ever puncture on this bike today. I'm impressed as that's 7000km+ in without a single puncture till now. It was on the rear and very small...had to pump the tube up till it was massively ballooning to find it.
I would say the reason I got the puncture was because my rear wheel is now quite worn. Not surprising for over 7000km!

I've just ordered this to replace it. :)
Image
I did a lot of looking around before I settled on this tire, so I hope it works well. It will be right at the limit's for what my rear fender and the frame can accommodate...I might have to shave a little off the rear fender to get it to fit nicely, but I don't care...I think this tire will be really nice.
I plan on running it at 35-40PSI...so the large size is needed. I will also be pairing it with a 20x3" tube. This should allow the lower pressures without a huge risk of pinch flatting.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Alan B » Jun 30 2015 7:19am

Those tubular 4mm lipo connectors are not foolproof. I've started to verify the wire colors before connecting them, when they don't match there's about to be a problem.

The XT connectors that come on the Multistars avoid that problem.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jun 30 2015 7:39am

Alan B wrote:Those tubular 4mm lipo connectors are not foolproof. I've started to verify the wire colors before connecting them, when they don't match there's about to be a problem.

The XT connectors that come on the Multistars avoid that problem.
Agree, although in my case the colours did match...it was just that instead of swapping one of the 2 paralleled packs for another on a 2 - 1 harness, I accidentally unplugged the discharge end and plugged it into another pack...making a 2 - 1 short...so the 1 in that case took the full brunt of the short and melted the plugs.

The XT connectors are nice for orientation, but they don't take as much amps as the 4mm connectors. XT 150's are the best, but are a little pricy and not very compact either.

Either way, 18650's spot welded together solve all these problems. :D

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Alan B » Jul 01 2015 10:09am

Welding everything together makes service and reconfiguration very difficult. You could cut off the Lipo connectors and crimp them to avoid the connector issues.

A lot has to do with how the harness is set up. Using a bunch of 2:1 adapters adds lots of extra connectors and potential for issues. I make a crimped harness so there are fewer connectors, just the ones needed rather than a bunch of extra connectors in the middle.

There's no perfect answer.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jul 07 2015 8:41pm

Had a bit of a setback last night...
I was trying to setup some new lever switches together with my brakes to activate regen when I brake. I tested which wires were shorting when I pressed the existing regen button with a multimeter, then wired in my lever switches to that. After sealing everything up I tested, but the lever switches still wouldn't activate regen. :? :?:
I then stupidly tried holding the lever switch down while I pressed the regen button to see what would happen...well something happened alright...it shorted the power button wires to the regen button and I heard a zapp and the lever switch got real hot! :oops: :cry:

So I thought, great there goes another controller. Anyway some investigation, and it turns out using the DVI monitor cable to extend my throttle, power and regen buttons was a good move...as the weakest link with 30awg wires, the DVI cable took the fall and not my controller! :)
Image

So, now I'm going to re-use that cable (the short was in a section I was able to cut off) since I still have ample length left. :)
This time around though, I might use the extra wires available to double up my power button wires since I've been running my front LED light off that line successfully for over 4 months, but I do worry that drawing power (even just 7.5W) over that line might not be the best move for the controllers PCB components that govern the on/off button...although I really have no idea...it just works. :D

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Jul 16 2015 6:28am

I finally got around to mounting my regen brake switches. It was my attempt to get these wired in last time that caused the short...needless to say I was a little nervous when trying them this time around.
Anyway, this time it worked! I've been using them to/from work for a couple of days now and they work well. The rear sometimes doesn't activate, but I think it's just the switch is a little dodgy, or the arm gets stuck, but it doesn't bother me mostly.

They look a little getto/ cobbled together, but that just means they match the rest of the bike well. :)
Image
Image
Image
Image

The switches are just simple momentary lever switches from Ebay. What you can't see in the photos above is the double sided padded tape underneath the switches. This is needed as well as the zip ties in order to hold them in exactly the right position to allow the switch to activate at the right point. I'm able to adjust the activation point further by slightly bending the metal arm forward or back.

I realize there are purpose built brake levers that do this sort of thing, but where's the fun in that! That and doing it this way is about 10 times cheaper!

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Aug 02 2015 7:16am

I had a go at installing my new drop-outs the other day.

As it turned out, only one side could work well, and I had to remove the torque arm on that side to let it work, but I'm ok with that since it seems pretty solid:
Image
I drilled and tapped a new M5 hole to mount it solid. No epoxy at this stage, and I think I won't need it either based on how firmly it is attached with the bolt.
Image
Image
Image
Image

I've also got a new tire on the rear:
Image
This is a 20x2.3" tire...the biggest I could fit with the rear fender still installed. Time will tell how good it is, but already I like how much lighter it is than the previous non-folding tire it replaced. :) It's got a more square profile and I can definitely feel the difference in cornering...just not sure if I like that difference or not yet.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Sep 12 2015 6:40am

So the bikes been going well. The 20x2.3" rear tire posted above has turned out to need about 10PSI more air pressure to not fold under the wheel under heavy cornering. As a result, it doesn't really give any more cushion than the 20x2.1" tire it replaced. I think once it wears out I might switch back to the 20X2.1 which has far stiffer side walls.

Just the other week I finally tracked down an intermittent hall sensor issue to the wiring near the connectors. It's so nice to finally have it fixed since it's been and issue for months and it would momentarily trigger a hall sensor failure when ever I hit a large bump causing the wheel to jolt for a split second.

Yesterday morning however, I had a bit of a nasty crash on the way to work.
I was cruising through a complex section of my journey where I zig zag past a sports field through a car park and several interconnected foot paths. There is a gravel road for service vehicles which I sometimes take as the foot path in that section is often clogged with mud from runoff, here: https://goo.gl/maps/U6n4G
As I approached the end of the car park some guy's dog's decided to take interest in me, started chasing me and ignored his yelling at them to stop. One of them looked like a Pit Bull, so I thought I better get past them fast and headed for the fastest route being the gravel road. The Pitt Bull was quick and was within a few meters of me chasing me with a vicious bark, so I flicked the bike into overdrive (120%) and went WOT, but it was too much power for the gravel and I spun out and fell onto the right side landing on my arse hard.
The dog just barked a bit more then lost interest at which point the owner yelled out "She wouldn't have bit ya mate" and started walking off with the dogs. I was still lying on the ground semi pinned under the bike in shock and pain contemplating if I should yell out after the guy to get details or not. I didn't bother and eventually managed to get up and ride home (unaided) which thankfully wasn't far. I then grabbed my Stealth Fighter and rode to work ok. :)
Damage to me is a badly bruised tail bone, so not too bad, although sitting down/ getting up is a real pain in the arse. :lol:
Damage to the bike was severed hall sensor and phase wires. The fall pushed my stand up and into the end of the axle cutting the wires in the process, hence the need to ride home unaided afterwards.

Anyway, I've been planning on upgrading the phase wires and water (rust) proofing the motor for some time now, so this damage has just brought my plans forward somewhat.
Today I managed to paint the inside of the side covers black (for a slightly improved thermal path) and the stator and magnets with red electrical insulating varnish.
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The bearing on the freewheel side (like the other side) got stuck before the end of the axle due to a slight bulge in the axle shoulder caused by the dropout's compressing the washer into the shoulder. This side plate was also well and truly stuck to the bearing, and I could not get it off no matter how hard I tried. This wasn't a big issue though, and I was able to paint everything still without too much hassle. Thankfully the wire side, side plate did come off ok.
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Surprisingly when I opened the motor there was no rust or dulled widings at all. Considering the near daily use in all manner of weather at regular peaks of 1.5KW I'm quite pleased at this. I think the 20" wheel, low bike weight (30Kg) and low drag coefficient certainly helps.

I also drilled a small amount of extra material out from the axle wire hole and started filing back sharp edges.
Maybe tomorrow, or in the coming week, I will put in some 14AWG silicone wires (replacing the silicone with heat shrink through the axle) for the phases, and 36AWG teflon wires for my halls (just through the axle) to make extra space.
Although these Golden Motors are not the best out there, given the extremely low cost (<$100) I don't mind putting a bit of work into making it better.

I'm not sure yet, but I think I might also drill some smallish (6mm) holes in the side cover I managed to get off for heat dissipation. Last summer, the good old hand thermometer on the side covers registered some burning hot temps after some rides home on very hot days. Given I put gaping bike holes in the side covers on the motors I use on my off-road Stealth Fighter without any issues, I don't foresee any problems doing the same to this commuter, road/ bike path only bike.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Sep 13 2015 5:57am

Well I managed to find the time this afternoon and quickly drilled the non free-wheel side cover with 13mm holes.
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This arrangement should allow a decent amount of centrifugal air flow...more than enough to cool the moderate loads this motor see's.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Sep 17 2015 7:12am

Made a bit more progress on the motor. Hopefully the next post will be with the bike back up and running.
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I was going to replace the stock phase wires with 14AWG silicone, but had these PTFE wires I pulled out of my HS4080 lying around. They are about twice the diameter of the stock wires anyway, so I just used them. Way easier to solder them anyway.

I took a bit longer to do all this cause I checked my halls and it just so happened that one of them was dead. It must have happened somehow in the crash...not sure how though. Anyway, easy enough to replace...just took extra time. :roll:
Hopefully back up and running next week. :)

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Allex   1 GW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Allex » Sep 17 2015 7:24am

Ouch you drilled through the reinforcements on one cover. Careful with that as that cover may crack if you hit a pothole.

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Sep 17 2015 6:26pm

Allex wrote:Ouch you drilled through the reinforcements on one cover. Careful with that as that cover may crack if you hit a pothole.
True, however the only reason the holes are in those locations is because they line up with the reinforcements on the other side of the cover. The one's that come out of the disc brake mount. So I think it should be fine.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Oct 02 2015 3:28am

Hi friends,

I'm taking the BikeE to the CanberraEV Show and Shine day this coming Sunday, if anyone in the Canberra region would like to see it in person. I'll also be taking my Stealth and know of at least one other E-S member bringing an assortment of electric vehicles, so should be a great day. :)

Details below:
CanberraEV show and Shine-1.pdf
CanberraEV show and Shine
(334.52 KiB) Downloaded 144 times
Hope to see some E-S members there. :)

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Dec 05 2015 6:57am

Hi all,

The Bike-E has been performing great lately, however I've been forced to carry my work laptop and work shoes to/from work a number of times recently and found my backpack slipping off the rear tail or sliding sideways also.

Well, a while back I picked up a cheap used women's bike for my wife which happened to have a rear rack with a built in dynometer powered light. The light bulb was toast, so I got rid of that and was left with the option of either buying a replacement bulb or coming up with something else.
Here's the rack:
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I decided that before I fit the rack to the Bike-E I need to sort out the light.

Our halogen kitchen down-lights were playing up a little while back and I bought some replacement LED down-lights to replace them. But the bulb type turned out not to be a match and would not work with the 12V driver unit in the roof, so I had these downlights sitting around doing nothing:
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Well I figured I may as well put them to use on my bikes. I found through experimentation that they will light up at around 7.4V and take up to 15V where they are very bright. At 7.4V they are not very bright at all, which for rear facing lights is perfect. I hate coming up behind other cyclists with blinding, flashing, seizure inducing rear lights, so I just want something subtle, but enough to be noticed.

So I drilled a bunch of holes in the plastic backing of the racks reflector/light housing, and epoxied the down-light in place:
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And yes that's hot glue over the top of the epoxy. I realised soon afterwards it probably isn't the best idea to put hot glue on something that gets hot...but the epoxy underneath it should still hold so no big drama. :P
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In the spirit of re-using old left-overs, I figured I may as well use some old batteries for this light also. Running directly off the main battery would have been nice, but didn't want to bother with another DC-DC converter and running all the extra wires. I had 4 old 1500Mah LiPo cells from my old Nokia phone that were perfect for this job in a 2S2P config:
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And the result is just like I wanted :D
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Just bright enough to notice, but nothing more.
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By my calculations, it should last at least 3 hours on this little pack. :)

Next comes the hard part...fitting it to the bike. I need to remove the whole battery, rear fender, and parts of the torque arms in order to mount this rack. I will also need to angle grind off part of the front of the rack to make it fit without pushing into the back of my seat. Once mounted, I'll then have to come up with a slightly different way of mounting my battery (which should be better overall) since it won't be sitting directly on the frame any more but on the front part of the rack.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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Cowardlyduck   100 MW

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Re: Cowardlyducks Commuter Build - E-bikeE

Post by Cowardlyduck » Dec 06 2015 4:44am

Today I mounted the rack and re-mounted the battery, etc. I moved my tool bag which was sitting on top of the battery, to down under the rear tail. I mounted my rear light battery pack with double sided padded tape to the inside of the rear tail.
Because the rear rack is wider it is a much more stable platform for my battery, so I was able to mount it securely enough with far fewer zip ties and elastic straps than previously.
Here's a few pics of how the bike looks now:
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The small increase in rear length makes a huge difference for mounting my back pack. Previously it would sag over the end of the tail and look/feel very insecure. With the rack, I'm no longer worried it will slide off to the side or slip off the back when it has a lot of weight in it as is often the case.
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This is probably the last mod I will do on this bike for a while. I'm still plan on making an 18650 based pack I can slide down inside the main frame, but it's going to require me to drill out the rivets on the rear stay's and change them to bolts, which in turn will require me to un-mount and remove almost everything on the bike.
So before I can proceed with that I need something that can still get me to/from work during the the long downtime it will likely take me. That's where this old E-Bike I'm restoring comes in:
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Once I get it up and running reliably, I can tackle the new battery pack for the E-BikeE.

Cheers
Custom made 18650/21700 battery packs

Modified Stealth Fighter - Force air cooled motor @ 6KW, Adaptto Mini-E. 49AH, 52V 18650 - 2.5Kwhr
Cowardlyducks - Stealth Fighter Videos

BikeE recumbent commuter - 9C, 6Fet Grinfineon, internal 17AH, 52V, + on-board solar.

Ebike Garage - My YouTube Ebike ramblings.

High Power LiPo wiring harnesses - 4P - XT90, HXT4mm, 5.5mm. 200Amp+ capable. Global shipping.

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