Hi, Please smell my Stinky

Timbecile

10 mW
Joined
May 26, 2014
Messages
28
Location
San Jose California
Hello Endless! This is my first post, a build thread on my attempt at a beyond-legal-speeds E-bike. I'll try to include lots of pictures as well as some helpful info so I can try to give something back to the kids :D

This build will be my second e-bike, although the first required very little building tbh. Some info on where it all began, starting with a 350$ eBay gamble, I fell victim to an insatiable addiction towards electricity. I had won a Ping 36v15ah LiFePO4 battery, complete with a Bafang 250w hub + plug and play controller. I then foolishly slapped it on an aluminum Single Speed; a Specialized Langster with a carbon fork.. Immediately I had to replace the front with something stronger and settled on a Landing Gear fork (with quite magnificent drop out girth, I might add). It works well as a simple commuter (22 mph) but is by no means pleasant over broken pavement. A few pics: #1left.jpg
#1.jpg
Let's move on to the Smelly, aka the Number 2 (pun intended). This time I chose something a little more kindly towards my heinie: The well regarded Kona Stinky. I've installed a pair of hookworm tires and upgraded the front to a White Brothers Groove 200 (8 inches of complicated love). The motor will be a rear BPM2 code(10) which I bought from ES member: Herrsprocket, this was in the for sale section already built into a rim. Thanks again for such an awesome deal and smooth transaction Herrs! I plan to use the KU123 controller in stock form, but am already researching how to mod. Much of my inspiration comes from Kepler's modified stealth fighter: http://www.electricbike.com/stealth-hot-rod/
A 200$ deal on CL began my journey with the inverted WB Groove supsension. I soon realized not very many frames could handle all that junk in the front. A little research and another 200$ snagged me this stinky pinky: RednStinky.jpg
Of course, a complete bike went for sale not more then a week later: View attachment 1
 
A new rim with a 20mm Thru axel and a direct mount stem allowed me to put it all together.
View attachment 3
Batteries. Now we get to the questions, I would like to use Lipo (everybody knows LiFePO is a gateway drug), and although I've done a fair amount of research, I still want to run my idea's past the forum before pulling the trigger. I have my eye on two 7s1p packs from: http://www.all-battery.com/25.9V10000mAhHeavyDutyLiPolyBatteryPackwithPCB-31417.aspx (possibly a third in the future)
-Will the PCB on each pack lead to any complications when wired in series?
-Those balance wires dont make much sense to me, will I need to splice a different connector for it to work with generic (common) balance boards?
My ideas on battery placement:
#2brainstorming.jpg

Charger. Since they are 7s, this narrows my options. Here's a link to the charger i'm leaning towards: http://www.amazon.com/Thunder-Power-RC-TP1430C-Multi-Chemistry/dp/B00681QVOY For powering it, I plan to use a Compaq ESP113 I had forgot to give back to a previous employer (thanks Cisco). Here's a link to the instructions on modding it: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=358340 (thread 7)
-Has anyone had any experience with Thunder power chargers?
-Are there any reasons why I might be better off going with an 8s charger (such as a dual 8s) or a different brand altogether?


Wiring. I have access to all kinds of wire, I brought home a handful of high quality 12awg and plan to use that for the phase and lipo connections.
-What gauge should I use for the hall sensors? Or if gauge is not important can I cut open some ethernet cable and use that?
-The motor uses 14awg phase wires and the lipo I believe use 18awg, will using the larger 12 gauge to connect cause any issues?

Here is the wire from the hub that I still need to solder on.
-Does anyone know the name of this plug?: BPM2Wire.jpg

And this is the controller side that will need to match up View attachment 4

-Is it feasible to have only one connector between the controller and motor? A plug at both ends seems like more of a headache in matching halls.

Connectors I have on hand, plus an ignition switch: AssortmentofConnectors.jpg

A shot of the BPM2 laced into the Alex DA 16 double wall rims with custom cut double butted Sapim spokes and Sapim Polyax nipples courtesy of Herrsprocket:Close up (2).jpg
 
so you bought that red stinky a few months ago eh…. :evil: haha .

i just got one a few weeks ago. going to use a vented 9c and 72v of lithium. Im still working out torque arms and battery mounting.


10505374_10202592760489552_1940425267074228100_n.jpg
 
Were basically twinsies now 1K! :wink: And yeah, i'm one of those jerks who waits till the last second then snatches the bid. Please keep me posted on your torque arm decision, I 'm up in the air on making mine custom vs buying premade.
I was very close to using a similar set up, going with the yescomusa hub, hua tong controller, and Lipo (The wesnewell set up). I was worried of the cogging though since I love to pedal.

Took some more pictures of the KU123 connectors to compare actual vs spec sheet. Spec can be found here: http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/364-universal-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html#idTab9 (under download tab)

I'll start off with the 3speed switch, followed by the 3speed controller connector (differing slightly from spec). 3Speedswitch.jpg 3Speedcontroller.jpg

Next we have the speed limiter wires, which are male and female. Plugged together limits speed, unplug is full power. Will update just how limiting it is once bike's complete. KU123speedlimiting.jpg

The cruise wires use a male and female plug as well. Plugged in enables automatic cruise (I assume you hold throttle steady for 5 seconds to enable?), unplugged allows cruise to be set by a button. Differs from spec as well: DisconnectedCruiseButton.jpg

Power comes via a three prong plug, although the battery will have only two wires on output, hopefully there's no issues connecting..
View attachment 2

The ebrakes seem fairly straightforward but differ from spec in two ways, the wire is yellow and blue rather than yellow and black, and I do not see the HWBS brake cable EBrakes.jpg

Last plug I have is the pedal assist PedalAssist.jpg

What is missing is the LED panel / Power switch plug, is this something I might need to solder in myself? I was looking forward to using that fancy blue switch I purchased.

Heres some nudie pics just because:
Traces.jpg
14s look like a comfortable max for these caps unless one were to use 15s and only charge to 90% or so.
 
yep! i actually have a mac here, but i like higher voltage setups. the weight isn't much difference with this heavy of a bike. i actually have been thinking about going middrive(bafang) because i enjoy pedaling.

i am having torque arms made that will fit the stinky pocket, and i will just use expoy to hold them in, battery mounting I might just get a falcon ev bag or so…

file.php


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i have 72v16ah of lipo.
 
Nice! that looks simple enough for me to try and make. Definitely going the epoxy route followed by a layer of plastidip to hide it all. People underestimate the power of JB weld, the shear strength is ridiculous. You wouldn't think glue tape or velcro should be used on an ebike lol.

I used industrial strength velcro to fasten the Ping battery to the frame of #1 and its held up incredibly well. Velcro along inside, then velcro straps around outside and it doesnt budge at all. I regularly carry it up the stairs holding on to just the battery. I want something removable for the smelly as well, only more robust. My plan is to have it screw into the water bottle mounts, and then velcro elsewhere along the frame tube to keep stable.
I grabbed some aluminum roofing sheet that is actually pretty strong for how thin it is.
Aluminum.jpg
It's thin enough to cut with tin shears but has a very sharp edge afterward. I bent in, hammered flat and taped the sharp parts: Edge testing.jpg
I plan to bend a thin strip along the outer edge of box, fasten it to the water bottle mounts like a back bone, then create outer plates for the left and right side openings. The dots along top could be hinges for instance Battery idea2.jpg

Might epoxy one side plate on, then secure the other plate with a screw through middle section. A rubber lip along edge should make a nice seal when tightened. Shape will depend on if I can fit controller inside box or not.
 
Timbecile said:
A new rim with a 20mm Thru axel and a direct mount stem allowed me to put it all together.
View attachment 3
Batteries. Now we get to the questions, I would like to use Lipo (everybody knows LiFePO is a gateway drug), and although I've done a fair amount of research, I still want to run my idea's past the forum before pulling the trigger. I have my eye on two 7s1p packs from: http://www.all-battery.com/25.9V10000mAhHeavyDutyLiPolyBatteryPackwithPCB-31417.aspx (possibly a third in the future)
-Will the PCB on each pack lead to any complications when wired in series?
-Those balance wires dont make much sense to me, will I need to splice a different connector for it to work with generic (common) balance boards?
My ideas on battery placement:
View attachment 2

Charger. Since they are 7s, this narrows my options. Here's a link to the charger i'm leaning towards: http://www.amazon.com/Thunder-Power-RC-TP1430C-Multi-Chemistry/dp/B00681QVOY For powering it, I plan to use a Compaq ESP113 I had forgot to give back to a previous employer (thanks Cisco). Here's a link to the instructions on modding it: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=358340 (thread 7)
-Has anyone had any experience with Thunder power chargers?
-Are there any reasons why I might be better off going with an 8s charger (such as a dual 8s) or a different brand altogether?


Wiring. I have access to all kinds of wire, I brought home a handful of high quality 12awg and plan to use that for the phase and lipo connections.
-What gauge should I use for the hall sensors? Or if gauge is not important can I cut open some ethernet cable and use that?
-The motor uses 14awg phase wires and the lipo I believe use 18awg, will using the larger 12 gauge to connect cause any issues?

Here is the wire from the hub that I still need to solder on.
-Does anyone know the name of this plug?: View attachment 5

And this is the controller side that will need to match up View attachment 4

-Is it feasible to have only one connector between the controller and motor? A plug at both ends seems like more of a headache in matching halls.

Connectors I have on hand, plus an ignition switch: View attachment 1

A shot of the BPM2 laced into the Alex DA 16 double wall rims with custom cut double butted Sapim spokes and Sapim Polyax nipples courtesy of Herrsprocket:
Since nobody is going to address your questions, I'll take a stab.
I see some serious issues to your battery plan, among others, the one you mentioned. The PCB will "see" 60 Volts if you connect them in series. I would suggest you take this post and repost it in the Tech. Section with a serious title.
That is a 9-pin connector, you can get them at any of the Chinese vendors, but the shipping will be crazy for a $3 part.
You need to order 4 m\m and 3.5 m\m bullet connectors from Hobbyking. Use the 4 mm's for the power leads and the 3.5 mm's for the phase wires both ends. Maybe the littles ones(2 mm?) for the halls.
If your battery plan doesn't work out(and I don't think it will), consider 12S. With that very high speed motor(you know it's spec'ed for a 16" wheel, right?), it might be fast enough and it is much easier to do. At the least, calculate the top speed with the Ebike CA Simulator.
 
-Motomech,

Thanks for all of the helpful info. I knew it was only a matter of time before someone brought my feet back to the ground heh. I've emailed All-Battery to see if there is any custom options available. If a 14s PCB is not available, I may look into just tearing out the PCB altogether and then using a watt meter to ensure I stay within limits. Cycle analyst will be purchased at some point but I want to get it up and running before fine tuning. As for going HK, I really like the ease of wiring and attaching just two packs vs 4-6 hobby king lipos. I'll def purchase the connectors you recommended. Also I'll be creating a technical thread for the questions i'm sure to have once I hear back from All-Battery on what they can or can not do.

I should have specified my use for the bike as well, although it is a DH rig, it will be primarily used for my commute to work. My largest drop will be a curb, and the largest hill a single overpass just before my building. The trip is under 7 miles, and essentially flat the entire way. I plan to charge at work too so I should have ample range with the 10ah. There are of course a few lights, but other then that, I don't see temp becoming an issue with the fast wind. All this suspension is pretty much overkill, but after being beat up on the single speed, the more cushy the better.

-Made in Alps,

Thanks for sharing! Your bike looks awesome, I must have looked at every stinky on here and really liked how clean your battery and controller set up came out. The extended rear linkage is a future upgrade I'll look into. I'll admit I also spent quite a bit of time looking at your electric board in the past. I snowboard, and used to longboard back in college, so the flexible platform on the Onda looks like so much fun! Maybe after I finish a couple of eBikes i'll move onto an electric board too ;)

I'm def in trouble, I've been bit by the electric bug bad.
 
Hi, thxs for your comments -
No so many stinky around if I remember my search sessions when building mine?! I was on a business trip last week and was very pleased to realize I can take my battery out in less than 10sec. to charge in an hotel room, so, this K.I.S.S aluminium "tray" bolted around the tube + armor around the battery and 2 clamps around appears to be quite right. maybe a bit too wide (160mm) and maybe with a bit too sharp edges. I hope I can get some hobbyking lipo and get it running at 18s (i.o 13s) : the enclosure would then be modified - will maybe look like yours :lol:
I was lucky enought to get a stinky with a good rear shock and the adjustements are really easy to change the damping from up hill to down hill (maybe an upgrade you should think of since I believe you have a basic Vanilla shock ...even if you plan mostly road commute)
The chain ring is bigger than the original - 42T, I can still pedal up to 40kph to assist the electric power 8)

regarding my e-board, it's definitly my "prefered ride" ...so powerfull! and it does fill like riding a snowboard :wink:
unfortunatly OndaMotion has stopped the production of those polymer deck and they are becoming rare...
the bambo deck they do now leave much less space to lodge a motor...
 
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