Duffman, I'm in central Pa, I worked around reading for a couple years though. Maybe we could end up riding somewhere half way! I don't know any other e-mtn bikers.
I used #35- cheap and plenty strong, and not too big for 2500rpms @ motor. original motor sprocket is an 8t #40, and the shaft diameter is an odd size. I ordered the #35 front sprocket from amazon for 10$ with id of .625", then slightly enlarged it with a die grinder to slip over larger diameter part of motorshaft that's closer to the motor. Instead of bothering with a machine shop for keyways, I welded the sprocket to the shaft, in a way that It can removed without hurting the shaft. The rear sprocket can be bought in aluminum as blanks in 1t increments. I think it was about 35$ from a kart place.
#219 is the other popular kid on the block, and is almost as strong and supports faster rpms, but is more expensive and not as easily obtainable, same as the sprockets for it.
My controller is 18fet 60a 90v program infineon from em3ev. Set to 67a/200ph and hitting 75a draw, it doesn't even get warm. I'd be curious to see the programability on similar controllers, as more is better. (unless you use the ca to control, or get an adaptto)
Voltron, thanks for the reminder. I think knowing one's equipment and being observant is right up there with 'look both ways b4 crossing street'.
I didn't get a single hit on the net for frame fails, so if you have any info to back that up, I want to hear it!
Not only do klein's designs have no more of an expiration date than other aluminum frames, the level of design and quality was paramount for these bikes.
As aluminum ages, it gets harder/stronger, but eventually this hardness leads to any microscopic fissures/defects slowly growing.
Any aluminum bike should be watched as it ages, but most failure prone are bikes that used inferior and poorly checked material, and klein is touted as the best, meaning it stands to last the longest imo.
Hopefully you're not just flamin- as I said, thankyou, but i need to see some more info on 'limited usable lifespan' before I'm convinced. I did find this though. . . .
Hey John, you have done alot on the sphere. Thankyou! Love your vids and build! I got into this for the exact reasons as you: supplement the normal mtnbike riding with power so as to put gravity on my terms lol. Bike weight is a big consideration though. I think for weight (even with a steel frame add-on) this is still far better balanced & prob lighter than a rear hub, and doesn't weigh much more than just a middrive. The bracket weighs under 5lbs, and covers 75% of the top of the triangle, so not an issue for me- a 'necessary' evil to lengthen wheelbase just to fit the bht back there. I scrapped the front deraileur, but the current 48: 11, 18, 28, 36 give me excellent pedal range. And 60lbs w/o battery is still pretty light and balanced.
You could run any hub you want, mine is xt, I simply got a longer solid axle for the 142mm d/o. Watch the 3rd video from top if you havent, that may help explain my method for fw'ing- I can use any hub that accepts a freewheelbody. But much easier would be skeetab and drum's approach, just bolt the sprocket to the hub. Stevil may have another set of those dual disc hubs/wheels, but my concern with this is they are too wide to ad anything but one bike gear. Let me know how else I can help!
You already have a white hd mounted back there? so workon mounting the bht and try it first, then do the pedals. My adapter can solve that, or there's lmx 2 or jackjetful that have motor gears and pedals. Many ways to skin the cat, but the bht begs to have the bike build around it.
Is there room for it on your bike? If not, what about skeetab's approach, buy a walmart genesis and put it on that to see if it's better than your current setup? I really think you'll love it, and know you'd give it proper video and coverage!