DH dual motor = LR mid drive + Grin all-axle front hub

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DH dual motor = LR mid drive + Grin all-axle front hub

Post by John Bozi » Aug 05, 2015 4:06 pm

I will be adding my review thoughts here since there is most the material already contained in this thread.

The Lighting Rod's Big Block on full suspension bike Review

preamble: I ride rougher terrain than most people who think off road equals, parks, paved surfaces, smoothe single tracks with the occasional obstacle negotiated with out power.

:cry: Things it is terrible for: full suspension bikes and high powered bb mid drives are a match made in hell.

The worst part of the concept of "mid drives are superior off road" is totally overlooking the bumps, humps, rough terrain exists on steep grades. If you have a hard tail that is fine. But hey nobody recommends mid drives for hard tails usually because the unsprung factor is pretty much the same as running a hub motor. It's all the magic full suspension bike with sprung motor weight that people want.

Hold on, chains dance like crazy and will jump off unless there are 4 points to secure them on the bicycle part.

Wait up, freewheels wobble, seating of the freewheel / chainrings also slants, the pivots twist and the swing arm crabs outwards. Making a perfect chain line totally impossible.

Dirt. Guess what? there is lots of dirt, dust etc off road. 3 chains to take care of means 3 times more work, and at 3kw as it is advertised which is more than 10 times more power, that makes your chains being clean at least 30 times more important. A build up of dirt, mud whatever and its a walk home.

Parts and extra costs. Custom or very rare and only available with shipping often twice the price of the part. On top of the initial price the ongoing breaking of parts until something starts to work will set you back a grand at least. One big one is an expensive rear hub such as the DT SWISS that has a star engagement system. Breaking your frame, going through at least 10 chains.... etc. there are endless costs also related to all the tools required to service this.

BETA. Don't let them fool you, this is a beta system and the users are feeding a search to make it work. As it was stock, the cranks had peddle strike as soon as it was installed. Clearance on the BB was a compromise between cranks falling off because of having to have them on loosely to clear the motor, until I could find longer bolts and a new FW. There was even a pretend aesthetic bolt doing nothing on the kit that just fell off. Grub screws dislodging and then jamming up chains, jack shafts warping, key ways deforming, keys compressing, adapter cracking in half, sprockets folding, teeth getting clean ripped off or getting destroyed in many ways and time spent searching and waiting for rare 219 pitch stuff.... only one guy can offer you a replacement, and if you share your experiences he will not.

Time. This could be good for those who prefer to work on their bikes more than ride them. Something fails every few rides on my eroded fire trails. It might last perfectly on your immaculately maintained version of off road, but hub motor would have no problem on that either.

Sound. This is subjective to the rider, but most people and dogs will know you are coming from far away. As run at stock set up with primary chain, it a screamer. If you like attention that's great. It is not stealth.

:twisted: :D What's it's good for:

riding it up with power on smoothe terrain, and then enjoying your suspension downhill without use of the motor. That basically rules out 90% of the terrain the bike was intended for.

I'll say it again with a different angle, riding steep smoothe stuff at high speed, where torque is low. Even at low amounts of power its enough when getting moving to crab out suspension. At high speed on smoothe it will climb steep all day long. Which brings me to a related point. There is absolutely no heat issues. That's a really big plus, it is the main plus. Unfortunately, its only on road and moving relatively quickly that you can use it.

Gearing. Kind of related to heat but it's own category because it basically means you can choose whatever speed you want. This is also totally related to power consumption. If you choose a low speed and are happy with it, you don't need mega watts to climb a hill. And finally this is related also to complete freewheeling.

Freewheeling. Compared to hub motor you can roll equally well as a normal bicycle and have absolutely no drag. Unfortunately this is almost totally negated as a positive when considering the mechanical waste or drag of the whole system when powered up.


EDIT June 2017 broke the swingarm I think due to crabbing or twisting. That spells the end of this DH bike frame running this motor.... and for some time now it will mean the end of the LR kit.


Below is the original posting for this thread
Just starting a new build thread now that I bought the bike for the LR kit which I am waiting in line for (ordered 22 July). Although I was going to go for a new entry level priced bike, everything produced now is 27.5 and more importantly they all have curved downtubes. A lot of the older downhill bikes had straight down tubes so hunted around for second hand. This bike has a lot of fine lines in the paint work with a chip near the pivot bolt. Those lines still have me paranoid. They don't look like what I would think cracks look like. They look like some one used a fine knife to cut along near the beading all over the frame. My biggest fear is that I am wrong and they are all hair line cracks.... If the bike do turn out to be cracks I plan to send this off to Sam to chop the frame and make battery space and bead up everything with extra meat and then cook it.

The FRO stands for "For Race Only" lol, so at 5kg it should probably hold up with cracks touch wood.

I Paid an AU grand for it. The frame itself brand new would be $3k. The fox 40 fork brand new would be $2k (au everything is more expensive!) Rear Spring shock would be $1k new, So if I don't discover any structural flaws I got this pretty dam cheap.

Image It does have scratches....

Image
Image
Image

About the frame in general with marketing hype
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/inten ... -fro-frame
Forum thoughts about the frame
http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomme ... &pagenum=1

Issues with it include in full compression the tyre would hit the frame ( I don't see that happening for me)
http://www.ridemonkey.com/threads/warni ... rs.199859/

About the Fox 40 fork (I don't know much about version / year)
looks like this one http://www.ridefox.com/help.php?m=bike&id=45

Never heard of the BOS Stoy rear coil shock before but it has a glowing review
http://dirtmountainbike.com/products/pr ... q0LgUpl.97
Last edited by John Bozi on Jun 13, 2017 4:30 pm, edited 22 times in total.

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Re: Intense M6 Lightning Rods build blog

Post by r3volved » Aug 05, 2015 8:11 pm

Awesome!
Looking forward to seeing more of this one!!

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Re: Intense M6 Lightning Rods build blog

Post by izeman » Aug 06, 2015 4:37 am

$1k was a bargain. top components. you will have fun!

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by drew12345 » Aug 06, 2015 6:04 pm

That was a steal. Great bike. Look forward to the build.

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by jk1 » Aug 06, 2015 11:15 pm

I Paid an AU grand for it. The frame itself brand new would be $3k. The fox 40 fork brand new would be $2k (au everything is more expensive!) Rear Spring shock would be $1k new,
How much are the other parts of this build costing ? battery ? how much is the LR big block kit in AUD delivered? The AUD has been hammered of late compared to the USD dropped like 35% in the last 3 years.

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by nutnspecial » Aug 07, 2015 12:21 am

Awesome bike and awesome deal John!
I bet you can't wait to electrify her. Same for us, Best!

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by IanM » Aug 07, 2015 4:43 am

nutspecial wrote:Awesome bike and awesome deal John!
I bet you can't wait to electrify her. Same for us, Best!
+1 I think you are gonna love this bike that is one awesome frame and with LR kit on there it should climb anything :D Once you're at the top,then the descent is more than catered for 8)
Are you getting the small block or big block? Do you have many ideas yet for battery mounting? I reckon the bag over top tube setup might suit or get SamD to put in a custom box.

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by John Bozi » Aug 07, 2015 5:01 am

Thanks for all the replies boys! Yes I am excited to intensify the ride with Electricitay
jk1 wrote: How much are the other parts of this build costing ? battery ? how much is the LR big block kit in AUD delivered? The AUD has been hammered of late compared to the USD dropped like 35% in the last 3 years.
Good question or should I say why must you remind my wallet?

Battery who knows I haven't decided on the spec yet. Could be a few hundred for 12s2p or who knows.

LR kit and yes Au dollar sucks ass - all I know is its under $2k

Yes the bike has saved me where the rest won't.

However my xray eyed painting buddy has given me new insight to what I thought were stanley knife lines were. I couldn't imagine how they were beneficial to painting the frame as I was looking at them in the negative to how he realised. The lines were masking everything but the beading which is the first thing to need painting.

So I am feeling less paranoid now.

I know how much a high performance bike costs and $4k is very reasonable in my books for the pleasure it brings me.

IanM: I am pretty sure big block (but I must say its a dam hard decision most the time because there is so much to way up)

Battery area is not really worry, something like the bike bag area is possible easily without using it. (SAM dee chop is a last resort for cracked frame for me)

My opinion with every bike is that 24 cells around the 5-6ah type are possible to hang on the frame comfortably.

so 12s2p probably for a while.

Sure that's enough but they'd be high draw capable.

Next, fork mount will be a future project for either batts or beer :lol:

and finally there's the back pack add on any time in the middle.

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by IanM » Aug 07, 2015 6:21 am

A big block on this bike should be nuts. Are you gonna have it set up with freewheel crank drive or left side to the disk mount?

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by izeman » Aug 07, 2015 12:40 pm

12s2p with a big block will bring you nowhere. At least nowhere you couldn't walk to ;).
With such a small battery i would expect a 10-15km range if ridden properly on moutainbike trails in the forests.

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Millions of possibilities makes Johny a happy boy

Post by John Bozi » Aug 07, 2015 4:15 pm

3kw+ and up power to the rear wheel is the burning issue that all big blockers are going to be the pioneers for now to grapple with.

IanM as you probably know the LR kits are similar to gng or cyclone style kits running through the bicycle's drive train. Yes I know that's too much power and that's why I will have two running bikes (one to baby while I work on the other). I imagine this will be a bike of constant repairs and tinkering. Things like sprockets, chainrings, hubs are not the issue as tough enough ones exist. The biggest problem is that freewheel technology for bicycles is just that. It's not made for more than human power.

It might look a bit like this with batteries eventually: 8) My mentor's revolved thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 5#p1052108
Image

Brings me back to Izeman:

I said 12s2p for a while.

That's the bare minimum and yes you could walk or you could do from my house an "up the mountain - down the mountain" twice, recharge in two hours do it again a few times a day. I live right next to mountain ranges packed with trails. Actually unless my bike is bullet proof I like being within a 2 hours walk home.... I am talking from experience here not once but a few times. :oops:

My plan is to run this through the cassette that is working now on the bike, until I kill it. For a while are the key words. As it will wear fast. The chain line on this bike looks set poorly for the granny gear. It looks in line with the smaller sprockets which will skip under load as many have mentioned. I'll avoid steep stuff for a while.

So for a while I'll run under 2kw, between a bbs02 / small block power styles.

Then will come Image and I'll test out what the rear hub can handle. When that fails I buy an expensive rear hub half the cost of the whole bike like chris king steel hub body. When that fails I get a custom thread on hub made the cost of the whole bike lol with white industries free wheel. When that fails I give up on bicycle components and go something like a fixies rear hub or pitbike front wheel hub if it fits on the back and f off the freewheel and see if it can be run with out locking up the chain and bringing me to a skidding holt. There is a freewheel in the chainring crank area but whether or not it would work for long is a big question and it is definately not an early choice as it takes out a serious safety element in the drive train. If it does work I wwould be riding it more slowly any way.

I currently run my dual motor bike just under 4kw @ about 60v x 70a @ 15s 3p. I imagine this bike will be similar eventually, but if I don't gear it down it will not be able to climb as I can now unless I gear it down to run at about 30 kmh. There will be lots of sprocket changing once I have everything running until I can fine tune the climb the right way. Otherwise I will blow half the battery as you would with a hub motor.

Top speed is unimportant, as I honestly enjoying climbing ridiculously steep stuff just as much as hooning at high speeds. I can tell you that most of the trail around my area never gets ridden for a reason, it's too steep to walk or ride up. I plan higher speeds to be more traditionally bicycle style dictated my descents.

Anyways to much projected thinking, there are many weeks before I get the kit.

For now I need the dimensions of the kit to plan out if it will mount simply or will I have to custom it. REvolved, if you have the non stretched bb kit, could you tell me the red and green distances from the centre of the bb to the two mounting points as you can see? please...
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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by r3volved » Aug 07, 2015 4:46 pm

I can. I am out on a fishing week so I'll get you those measures sometime next week. Monday/Tuesday I'll be back.
Would have been so sweet to have brought the bike up here to the Canadian Shield. Tons of epic trail around! Barely anything at home in the city.

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controller position

Post by John Bozi » Aug 07, 2015 7:22 pm

r3volved wrote:I can. I am out on a fishing week so I'll get you those measures sometime next week. Monday/Tuesday I'll be back.
Would have been so sweet to have brought the bike up here to the Canadian Shield. Tons of epic trail around! Barely anything at home in the city.
cheers and good luck with the fish, you shoulda coulda woulda, didnt take the bike = next time put a rod on your bike....

Everytime I look at my 24 fet greentime controller that I bought for my hub motor I think it is ridiculously big and heavy, yet the specs say it all and actually they pretty much look like they were made for the big block.
Image

The big block is advertised as 3000w and can handle 60amps, which a CA could limit the controller down to. On the other hand 3000w / 84v continuous = 35a. (84v if I ran it around 21s, which I ran my hub motor for as a perfect voltage = 3x6s + 3s)

EDIT: Just posting this here for future reference as an alternative to spending $$$$ for a steel hub body.

use staples...



EDIT 2: Unfortunately this controller or my 18 fet (same length and height) will not allow full compression of the fork in the only possible place under the downtube (forward to where the forks touch in a turn.)

The only leaves with me two alternative positions. Above the top tube = best to secure but will look like a huge petrol tank or across the front forks with tube clamps which I don't like the idea of because all the wiring will be sticking out and constantly bending with turns and possibly get snagged on passing objects...

I would put it on the back of the seat post if it weren't going to squashed by the rear tyre in full compression.

Only other alternative is less fets, shorter controller to fit on the downtube as "revolved" fitted in his build.... I can always try what I have now in controllers and buy a smaller one later if I see I never plan to be running such high continuous power levels....

EDIT 3: still collecting info about sprockets, voltage and speed...

REvolved: small chain wheel with 20t rear for 35kph@72v (question is how many teeth the small chain wheel is.) This sounds ideal as I am only interested in off road steep climbing, however, I may be running lower volts....
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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by r3volved » Aug 11, 2015 5:51 pm

Hey John,
From the center of the crank arm screw to the bottom of the downtube bracket (red) is ~18.5cm. From crank arm screw to top of the downtube bracket (green) is ~23.5cm.

I still have about 1cm on my lower adjuster to go higher (+cm, so about 24-25cm max green) and I have about 2cm to go lower (-cm, so about 17cm min red). My 219 chain is stock...I might be able to go lower if I took a link out - I doubt it could go any higher other than from wear and stretch.
18.5-23.5cm is around what it should sit at with tension.

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by r3volved » Aug 11, 2015 6:02 pm

The controller I have is the lyen with CA-DP supplied by Mike. I thought long and hard about mounting it on my forks and if it was bigger, I probably would have...worked out ok though as I really like having the pelican 'trunk' up front with all my mobile tools, as oppose to always having a backpack.

As noted on my thread (probably easier for you to reference here):
I'm running 48t/32t chain rings.
So that's 48t-16t for 55kph@72v and 32t-20t for 35kph@72v. I'm not sure if you noticed, but I am also running a 24" rear tire and 27" front (DH, not moto).

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battery controller

Post by John Bozi » Aug 11, 2015 9:52 pm

thanks man for all the info - really helps me plan out various things..

the 23.5 hopefully is not any more as it is exactly at where in the corner of the bend where my shock is.... wow that's a tight one... Hopefully the tube clamps don't mind a bit of a twist there.

And no didn't spot the 24" but I did wonder about how much your bike was perked up....

27 front too? thats kind of odd.... Actually looking at my bike I think intense extended their dropouts for the tyre hitting the seat tube issue, because I swear I could fit 29" tyres on this .... even the fork looks like it would allow it.

I am not going to as I want the torque am short :oops:

Thanks to you I know now that there would be no way I'd go lower than 30t front and 20t rear. That sounds simple and depending on voltage I should be around the mark I was aiming at. This will be the half way mark between most hub motors top speed and double their torque and right around a single track dangerous terrain kind of happy zone.

Will be a pain if I had run away from the cops on road though.... :roll:

cheers mate! 8)

EDIT: I want about a 15ah 20c battery. Multi stars don't quite fit the c rating I need for this at any C rating I can calculate unless I went to 32 ah and thats just way too big and heavy for most my rides.

EDIT 2: After a whole day of looking at various options on HK from 20s to 18s to 16s I finally decided to start low and as I go build it up as I need.

I ended up buy 9 of these:

Image
Minimum Capacity: 5000mAh
Configuration: 4S1P / 14.8v / 4Cell
Constant Discharge: 20C
Peak Discharge (20sec): 30C
Max Charge Rate: 5c
Pack Weight: 528g
Pack Size: 139 x 45 x 44mm
Charge Plug: JST-XH
Discharge plug: 4mm Bullet-connector
with the intention of 12s 3p or 50-41v 15ah. I ended up going 3p to get up to around 75 amps continuous if needed. Not keen on going to 32ah with the multistars or paying much more than $400au. for now that heaps to run it lower powered. I know it will be pretty slow at this voltage and at least I will enjoy the progression of uping the speed.

I will still be able to maintain 3kw continuous like this if needed. Main deciding factor is that I am waiting for the HV satiator to come out onto the market before going up over the 60v line. I don't want to be wasting money on every bloody voltage I decide to change to. Yes I looked at 15s but it was quite a bit more expensive and I must say I have had my eye on these cute boxed 4s lego for quite a while. I love their dimensions and almost bought 15.... I just felt that was too extreme for a first time buy and I dont want to deal with that much lipo for now.

spaghetti will come..

EDIT 3: I've never had 4mm bullets and this HXT style housing. (always run 5.5 gold bullets)

So all the harnesses will be new and learning experience. I know you should always paralel first, but this would really save on sphagetti:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 44#p869240
Image

EDIT 4: Did more accurate measurements of controller and it won't even fit on the fork because it is much wider than lyen. I could put my lyen there but I really don't want to fiddle with my current bike whilst it is all running well.

The big controller will fit on top of the triangle but will ruin all the battery space, so the last place that it will fit is on top of the handle bars facing bacward a bit like a CA or facing forwards if spread out brake levers more. On top it will take up much of my ground view and the CA will be awkard off to one side.... It will be ugly where ever it goes... I'd go a higher voltage lower amp lyen if it weren't for the satiator.... I 'd hate to have to buy another charger as well.

Other option to consider is on the handle bars and the tops of the fork. Or having it just forward over the fork bridge or limiting suspension... but I don't like these options.

EDIT 5: I don't trust only two points holding it to the handle bars as it is bound to twist in rough riding. It will have to be 2 points on the handle bars and 2 points on the top of the fork. There are range of sizes to fit from this store... I will go order today.

http://www.reece.com.au/plumbing/products/510726

Image

I'll get 4x 40mm for the forks (2 spare if I do something else) and 2x 23mm

EDIT 6: Picked up my clips as mentioned for $24 au - they are an awesome tough clean design. I didn't get my bolts as I ran out of time and I need to play with spacing ideas.

I put one down at the bottom of the fork to show where it would come out at full compression, and how far out the controller must be. That doesn't take into account that the controller is even wider and would actually just not hit the tyre even when jutting out past the bridge. This lower position which I would love would also twist all the wiring as it sits now. Of course lower is better and it would take up no ground view space.

However, the upper with handle bars would be stronger with vertical and horizontal mounting points, clear everything for wiring as it is now, and and require less custom mounting adapter. Obviously the handle bars are wide enough to be able to place the clamps at the same point as the holes in the controller, where as the forks are narrower so need a middle bar which is just adding more weight.

Both positions look like a handle bar cargo bag kind of. If the controller doesn't overheat I might make a thin material bag for it so its more stealth but still breathes the heat.

EDIT 7: Got my 9 x 4s and playing with how I will mount them. I kind of wish I bought 1 more or 3 more now to just keep them in case they go out of stock, but until I try this 12s who knows. with 10 I could have 20s 10ah with 12 16s 15ah. However the weight of the bike with no motor and batteries is already quite heavy, in particular front heavy because of the massive fox 40s. It's one reason for only 9 batteries ( the minimum to get the full continuous potential of both the motor and controller) and for now the limit of my bulk charger.

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controller position check!

Post by John Bozi » Aug 16, 2015 12:19 am



Just need to pull it off and apart to rescrew in the wire valve, solder on some plugs while I am it. Even ground down an allen key to fit tight spaces... The guy across the road helped me so much. So lucky to have someone with every tool I need!

I will never worry about my controller getting hot!

happy weekend :D of work although the Mrs. was gona kill me. :oops:

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Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by drew12345 » Aug 16, 2015 9:40 am

Surprised controller doesn't fit on downtube. Is it because the size of controller? Would a thinner controller work?

I almost went with bunch of 4s lipos this year. I like the hard cases and cost.

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battery configurations tensioner

Post by John Bozi » Aug 16, 2015 12:23 pm

drew12345 wrote:Surprised controller doesn't fit on downtube. Is it because the size of controller? Would a thinner controller work?

I almost went with bunch of 4s lipos this year. I like the hard cases and cost.
It might fit on the down tube but I don't want to limit the full bike suspension even a 1cm. This controller has been sitting around new doing nothing since I bought it earlier this year. Sure if hadn't bought it Id have gone something smaller and after I get to know the lr kit I might replace it.

I have ridden Newbs bike in the past with the whole 8kg of batteries on the fork and I dont like it there but this is only a quarter of that weight so barely noticable to the handling.

EDIT 18/8 Can't decide on the method to lay out the 5 pack side. sucks 5 on one 4 on the other...

Image

This method would have the most protection on corners but fixing it to the bike would be way more limited with all wires on the same corner line....

Image

However, this method would allow easy strapping and hiding some of the wiring in the small triangle. 4 at the top are easy to fix to inline with the top tube, one side would need to have the fifth bottom pack. The two middle ones I would face inwards into the hollow space in the bike frame, the top two and bottom one cannot face inwards as there is frame there. The top two could be faced upwards to put wiring out of the way of leg rub. The bottom one I am not sure yet - It could face upwards if the wires dont mind being laid out straighter and then run under to the other two. Basically I want to sandwich as much wiring in the hollow space as possible.

EDIT 20/8 Just ordered the chain tensioner revolved is using. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BDW-Chain-Tensio ... 1640123196?
Specification
Material : Light weight aluminum alloy construction, full CNC machined
Guide pulley : 11T (double) , for 1/8" and 3/32" chain
Maximum sprocket teeth : 18T.
Color : Black anodize
Weight : 120 g. in actual measurement
Image My cog is 20t and it does work on revolved's bike but possibly not enough chain wrap. If I have any issues I will go down to 18t. My greatest concerns are that ride rough terrain and need to be able to hit bumps underload. I had one of these similar tensioners just explode, with spring never to be found....

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by drew12345 » Aug 20, 2015 7:43 pm

Yeah, always hard figuring out where batteries should go. Even harder since you ride offroad. Don't want to crush your batteries if bike falls on side. You going to build a box around it?

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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by r3volved » Aug 20, 2015 8:08 pm

Damnit stop editing your posts and just add new posts so I get notified :P Now I gotta re read all these updates.
I got my bad bessy built back up and I'm back on track!

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John Bozi
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temporary saddle bags & wiring connectors

Post by John Bozi » Aug 21, 2015 5:41 am

r3volved wrote:Damnit stop editing your posts and just add new posts so I get notified :P Now I gotta re read all these updates.
I got my bad bessy built back up and I'm back on track!
LOL I like the concept of adding absolutely any info that interests me to the web, as I like being able to find it easily and its usefull for others. However, I don't really like having about 10 posts all by me in succession. If it were consequential it doesn't bother me when other people do it. I also dont want to bombard your email box or forum top post with it either. I tend to wait until someone responds to make a new post otherwise its just me thinking out aloud for newcomers to the posts. It also gets rid of 10 signatures etc along with the info.

I am, however, flattered that someone would like to be notified of my build. :D

Drew, it would be over the top for me to over plan the bike and go to hard set on anything until I get the motor installed. Wow even now my dual motor build is in a relatively unfinished mode. Finding the perfect volt/amp bat config. wont happen overnight with this build either. As a result I will try to keep it loosely mounted while I test it on the terrain I want it to be able to climb.

These 4s packs are very much lego blocks that can be constantly connected together. I love them also because they are so short. If I was made enough to want a heavier long range bike or if I need more power then I could go side ways across the top tube or downtube and at that time I will wish I hadnt set them up in a hard box.

The cool thing is the saddle bags that I bought for my dual motor build, where I have two batteries near the front tube actually fit two 4s packs perfectly. I actually bought two extra of these ages ago since I loved them and thought I would used them. So with two I am sorted for 4x4s packs (would make a nice neat 16s 10ah) but I have one odd last pack to stick somewhere probably on the top tube. The way I see it is you dont use voltage to tinker with top speed, since we use sprockets it should become relatively redundant as long as the wiring can handle high amps. For now the satiator rocks and would like to stick to the safer low voltage style...

these are the bags (not a pic of my bike for now)

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with the hard case plastic lipo and added hardish plastic and thick fabric it ends up solid enough in my opinion. :idea:

EDIT 22/8 I received two packets of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html
7mm AS150 Anti Spark Self Insulating Bullet Connector (2 Pairs)

This connector features an insulated tip to stop big sparks from higher voltage applications. This coupled with the plastic self insulating shroud offers a safe and affective connector package with no shrink tube needed.
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I know they are for the final closing of the circuit for sparks but I bought enough to use on the ends of my 3p harnesses which will series together and the power and phase wires connections to the controller. The wires are really fat on the controller and these look easy to solder well. big window to pour in solder and the screw on housing looks so neat and should keep my relatively safe. The connections will rarely need to be pulled apart because I will be bulk charging however.

also ordered a dedicated anderson plug/wire which will sit with the controller power wires for bulk charging to the andersons on my satiator http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/C9020-RC-Mal ... 4d14f12d1b
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I am now waiting for a few plugs to do most the wiring but can start on the phase wire controller side at least.

EDIT 26/8 Had to open the controller to rescrew in the wire plugs and wow what a beast. Huge amounts of alu and tons of space for a banana.

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John Bozi
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smaller chainring compatability issues

Post by John Bozi » Aug 26, 2015 3:38 pm

I felt this was worthy of a new post as it a more serious issue I hadn't forseen in my ideas that I would be able to tune my gearing to suit steep mountain climbing.
Nelsjourney wrote:
Hello John. I am in the process of getting my LR kit working on my cargo bike. I saw you mentioned putting 36 tooth crank up front. I tried this and it did not work for me. The crack up front has nuts and bolts in between the chains that run the drive train and the motor. When I put the 36 tooth crank on the chain began to rub on the bolts that held the whole crankset together. I had to change it back to the 48 tooth crank that LR put on. I hope this helps. You might want to ask him if he has some kind of adapter that can assist you if you want to go down to 36 tooth.
REvolved uses a double chainring (tripple really since one is for the motor) and hasn't mentioned any issues. I'd prefer not to go an extra chain ring as a first solution due to extra weight....

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 32&start=0
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r3volved
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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by r3volved » Aug 26, 2015 4:49 pm

Ya I use the double chainring that mike supplies. I didn't do anything to it and haven't had any problems with it...though I had my first chain drop today. It didn't go very far, just dropped down to my smaller chainring...for about five minutes though I was wondering why I could only hit 35kph max, lol.
That was 48t-16t... So the 32-20 actually probably does a bit less than 35

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nutnspecial
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Re: Intense M6 FRO Lightning Rods build blog

Post by nutnspecial » Aug 26, 2015 10:46 pm

John- liking the controller integration and the battery storage. Little jealous of that bike :D !

I cut up some square plastic boxes for protection of my softpacks in my bags. Worked great, strong and cheap. Also, different velcro rolls from ebay really came in handy to sure up the mounting of 40 cells right about where you have pictured yours to be. Lots of cheap bags to choose from also. Top tube pannier was the style that worked for me, but also various handlebar bags seem to work.

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