You are correct, its 12mm narrower. Whats the ETA before your Alpha is up and running? Also, what kind of battery are you going to buy, or build, for it?drop-out width is narrower on the Alpha than the Fighter by about 10-15mm....to much to squeeze it in.
I'm looking at a chain tensioner now. Something like this should allow all the chainrings to work.JtHaas wrote: ↑Dec 27, 2017 2:22 amWith all those chainrings will you be running a derailleur on the bike? You said it had two speeds, is that an internal drive? Why would you need two chainrings.
I reckon only one of those will feel right with whatever size sprocket you have on the back. Changing chainrings is one of my least favorite jobs to do at the shop
CD, you need the Paul components Melvin chain tensioner. https://paulcomp.com/shop/components/me ... tensioner/Cowardlyduck wrote: ↑Dec 27, 2017 3:33 am
The smallest chainring will have a lot of slap, but it's only going to be needed in a slow going get me home mode anyway, so no issues with that.
The 2 speed is the Schlumpf drive, otherwise known as the ATS speed drive. I have one on my recumbent (and my Fighter). They are great units, and I would love to put one on the Alpha, but at $650 a pop installed, the price is a bit hard to swallow. If I find even the 60T too slow for my liking I might consider another Schlumpf for the Alpha.
It's worth mentioning, I plan to run 3 chainrings up front (just bought a 38T last night). I will manually change the chain over between them as needed. In the rear I plan to run a 12T freewheel.
Any recommendations for a good quality 12T for the rear?
Looking at this, if it doesn't work, the Melvin may not either for your needs. With the arm, you should get at least the range one would get with the Melvin. Be that as it may, I look forward to your build progress.Cowardlyduck wrote: ↑Dec 27, 2017 7:54 pmThanks Rick.
I ordered this one already.
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/bike ... ack/MT-95D
I will give it a try and see how it goes. No idea what the tooth difference it works with, but will try it anyway and see how I go.
Failing that I might try the Melvin. Thanks for the suggestion.
Funny you say that, when JK was visiting, we talked in great detail about peak power levels and what we considered the most fun. That led to the discussion of where is the point of diminishing returns as far as the fun factor vs the effort to control a machine cross. In the end, I felt that 7 KW for any machine that weighed around a 100 pounds was maximum ideal, JK agreed.Hyena wrote: ↑Jan 05, 2018 4:33 amIt's a alloy stator H40, which is basically a crown these days.
Controller will be a crystalyte 18 fet sinewave job running 80A at 21S for around 6500w peak. I could turn it up to 100A for 8kw odd but I think 6-7kw really is the sweet spot. I've had my alpha turned down to 6kw for back to back testing with the surron recently and I dont miss the extra power 99% of the time.
Hi Heath, not an expert on the batteries, but I think you are fine. I have read about others having worse experiences and their packs turned out fine. How about some pics of your build in progress?\ (•◡•) / wrote: ↑Jan 15, 2018 12:11 pmwow thread is looking a little slow, to wake it up heres my 20s10p LG HG2 battery build progress for my Alpha:
and now for why I dropped by before my bike was finished and I could show it off, while building the battery I have been extremely careful and working in a clean(ish) room while being very careful to keep all surfaces clean and basically working in lab conditions.... until i went to get more rubbing alcohol to clean the nickel strips with before I spot weld them. and of course when I get back my brain turns off, grabs a metal pair of callipers to measure a nickel strip already on the battery as I needed to cut a few more from the roll. and of course I touch it to battery and short it. there was a small to medium size spark and the callipers only touched the battery for a split second, seriously I pulled them away as quick as I believe to be humanly possible and I would of imagined the battery probably pushed them away too, Surely the battery is ok, rr..right?. heres a photo of the contact points, I checked the voltage a minute after it happened and the cell group was showing the exact same voltage. what are the chances i did any damage at all?, is it inevitable that i lost a few percent of the total cell group capacity, or is it completely fine?
anyway apart form that I'm hoping to have my bike all finished in around 4-5 days. just waiting for my hope brakes to come in and then do the final wiring and it should be rideable (hopefully)
also i'm pretty new to the forum so i guess this is also Hello to many of you, you can call me Heath if you wish bcause I have possibly the hardest to refer to username
Hello lash, Yea I put together the battery spacers and test fit it before I build the battery and it fits with not even a cm to spare, plus I have to wiggle it in so getting the finished battery in with 6awg wires coming off it is going to be quite a challenge, but should be worth it. If you're not using cell spacers i'd say a 20s with the cells all hot glued so there touching each other would fit in the battery bay with a inch or more to spare length ways, so i'd recommend the 20s but measure it all up before you do it just incase as it seems these frames can vary a bit with the dimensionsLash wrote: ↑Jan 18, 2018 9:51 pmHi Heath, great looking battery. I hope it fits your alpha! it must be a tight fit. Be good to see some pics / hear how you go installing it, as I have 2 alphas I am about to build up soon and tossing up whether 20s or 18s.... I dont use spacers either at this stage....
So far the build pics are pretty boring, I have a rolling frame minus the drivetrain. When the bike is finished i'll post some pictures of inside the frame and some of the build pics. But i'm also going away for a overseas holiday so you may not here anything from me for around 3 weeks