BBS02 commuter road bike

bokokon

1 mW
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
18
For the last year I commuted 4 miles each way from my house in Seattle to my work in Seattle via bicycle. It was a great 15-20 minute ride through the city, bringing me smiles and near death experiences every week. We moved out to Bellevue a few months ago, increasing my commute to roughly 14 miles each way. It is a great ride, but 28 hilly miles on my road bike leaves me very sore and tired, along with taking about twice as long as driving.

So I decided to build my first e-bike. The bike is a "Charge Plug" from Performance Bikes, very similar to my road bike but all steel and disc brakes. 105 components, coupled with a shit seat, shit tires and mediocre brakes. So I paid $700 for good components and a sturdy frame. I considered flat bars as most kits are made for them, but I am used to drop bars, and I really like the various hand positions they offer. I was camera-less for a few months, so here is a stock photo of the bike:

charge_plug.jpg

I threw on an Avid BB7 front brake, some 32mm Schwalb Marathon tires and an old semi-comfortable seat I had laying around. Also added a rear rack and some Banjo Brothers panniers with a waterproof liner. At this point it was a pretty solid, but heavy commuter. Time for some power.

Ordered a BBS02 kit and a 48v 20ah shrink-wrapped battery from LunaCycle.com. Sadly, the first battery only gave me 8-10 miles of range. The battery would also become very hot on one side after a few miles of riding, and frequently refused to charge. Returned for a replacement, the second battery was defective as well. Eric at LunaCycle seemed just as frustrated as me about the bad batteries. They were very responsive and easy to work with throughout the returns. I considered buying a battery from someone else, but I couldn't find another stateside vendor with prices even remotely close to LunaCycle. So the second battery went back, and for the third try I switched to a 52V 13.5ah dolphin pack. It seems I finally have a winner. The enclosure is very well built, and most importantly I made it all the way in to work this morning without the battery or anyone going dead. Took about 10 minutes longer than driving, and I feel like I cycled 6 miles instead of 14. Success.

The (somewhat) finished bike:

first_successful_ride.jpg

The handlebars present a bit of a challenge, but I seem to have a functioning setup at this point. I managed to get the throttle mounted near my hand, but I prefer pedal assist as my hands are busy enough shifting and braking. So I bought a "big green button" from em3ev.com, which kills the motor when depressed. I can progress through the gears one at a time without much grinding, and then use the green button to rapidly downshift for hills.

Big green button (it's not that big), sadly ran out of black zip ties :(

View attachment 2

Battery pack power button and lock.

battery_light_smaller.jpg

Wires heading out of battery enclosure. Everything is nicely sealed on the mount/pack, hopefully it holds up in Seattle.

battery_wires_smaller.jpg

The display mounts nicely on the middle of the bars, but the control ring doesn't fit so it is just dangling there by a zip tie. I made pickup some sort of accessory bar to give it a better home. Adding front, rear and spoke lights tonight. I may also attempt to add the ebrakes that came with the bbs02 kit as interrupter brakes. Also have a little thermometer to mount inside the bbs02, as I it gets quite warm and I would like to get a few years before burning it up. However if I kill it I suppose I could buy the new 1000w edition :)

Big thanks to Eric @ LunaCycle for all his help, and teslanv for helping me debug the defective batteries.
 
fredfire said:
Do you have a picture of the throttle? I have installed the bbs02 on my road bike but removed it since it is hard to use the throttle correctly with drop bars.

Sorry I removed the throttle, only using pedal assist now. I thought I would want throttle initially, due to not using ebrakes, but I have a pretty good flow now with just the green button. Anyways I had it in a decent position at one point, very similar to how the green button is mounted, although it took 3 zip ties to hold it tight without impeding the throttle function.

Scroll down on this thread for a nice mounting solution using a little piece of plastic tube:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=70549
 
Good to see a drop bar BBS02 build. I had considered it, ended up going with a bike with front suspension.

How rattly is it on your hands? Cheers, nice work on the build.
 
LiFeCycle said:
Good to see a drop bar BBS02 build. I had considered it, ended up going with a bike with front suspension.

How rattly is it on your hands? Cheers, nice work on the build.

Thanks! It's not terrible, as long as I get my butt off the seat before big bumps. I'm used to riding a regular road bike, but man hitting an unexpected pothole at 30mph is a whole lot different than 18mph! I'm riding the same route over and over, so I'm slowly memorizing all the places where I need to slow down for crappy pavement or stand up and relax for the big roots.
 
bokokon said:
LiFeCycle said:
Good to see a drop bar BBS02 build. I had considered it, ended up going with a bike with front suspension.

How rattly is it on your hands? Cheers, nice work on the build.

Thanks! It's not terrible, as long as I get my butt off the seat before big bumps. I'm used to riding a regular road bike, but man hitting an unexpected pothole at 30mph is a whole lot different than 18mph! I'm riding the same route over and over, so I'm slowly memorizing all the places where I need to slow down for crappy pavement or stand up and relax for the big roots.

I used to commute on a roady. Their advantage is their efficiency. So fast! Always jealous seeing guys smashing it on roadys on the way to work.

But it's pretty hard on your hands/body compared to a flat bar mountain bike with suspension. Switching to this was definitely the way to go, especially if large distances are involved. Slower, but means I can do over 500km per week without pain.
 
I know when you shift the green button works good to kill the motor. But when I see this, I always like to mention that you can accomplish the same thing with a very minor backpedal nudge. It's there, so no issue with trying it. Since I've gotten in the habit I automatically do the backpedal nudge each time I stop pedaling.

I've ordered some red buttons that latch instead of momentary and I plan to replace my green button with a red button. I find that there are a number of times when it's nice to turn the power off, such as when around other traffic on a trail or easing up to a bike rack, etc. On my trike, the Bafang control unit is a long stretch, plus you have to pay attention to which button you are pushing, plus if you are using anything above level 1 assist you either have to back through all of the levels or hold the on/off button down for a length of time. With the red button I'll just have to hit it once to kill the assist and once again to put the assist back where it was.
 
Or you could use brake sensors either inline or hall/reed for hydraulic brakes? (perhaps I don't understand why you need a separate kill switch?)
 
Lurkin wrote:
Or you could use brake sensors either inline or hall/reed for hydraulic brakes? (perhaps I don't understand why you need a separate kill switch?)
Not sure this was addressed to me, but I'll answer anyway. :D

First, there is no "need" for a separate kill switch. When shifting you can just wait until the motor quits or pedal backwards a tiny bit and the motor quits immediately. I didn't use the brake levers that came with the Bafang mostly because I use locking brake levers so the trike doesn't roll away when parked.

Since there was a green (momentary) button available that plugs right into the harness instead of the brake levers, I put one on the trike. It works fine for helping with quick smooth shifts, but I prefer the pedal backwards technique.

However, I found the green button handy for those times when I wanted to temporarily disable the PAS system. This includes those times when you want to maneuver under pedal only power or you just want to pedal for a bit with no assist. The problem with the green button is that you have to hold it down until you are ready for assist again. With the red "latching" button no holding will be needed.

Of course you could have both a green (momentary) and red (latching) button and brake levers with cutouts if you wanted to. :D
 
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