Full suspension low diameter hub build

Started as a Mongoose Pro Wing
Steel rear triangle is a plus for a hub



Many iterations later...



120mm suntour fork
Fox Float RP2 rear shock with longer eye-eye
58v20ah echo battery
Bmx riser cruiser bars
Bmx pegs bolted through bottom bracket
Shunt modded 48v 45a 1500w controller w. 60/100/120% speed settings and regen/eabs
16x3 rear hub motor with angled vent holes +upgraded phases
Two torque arms
20x3 front tire alexrims dx32 160mm disc brake
2x nes-350-27 meanwells in series set to 29v for a simple 58v12a charger.
2x 20w led lights
Full twist throttle w/ key and led voltage readout

Each 4ah battery can be charged at 4ah for one hr recharge, and they also have 2ah batteries which also carge at 4ah so that means these cells take a 2c charge rate set by default with oem charger. so 12a on 20ah is light on these batteries. Should be able to charge @ 30-40a for a > 1hr charge too bad 58v12a is already at the limits of your average 120v house outlet.

~30mph top speed on 120%
Rides like a dream and pulls like a train for just ~2000w peak thanks to low diameter hub
Never had a flat thanks to 3inch tires.
Hub and controller Stay stone cold in stop and go nyc traffic. Barely warm after a full WOT run around manhattan. range is very impressive given the wattage of controller. Thanks to the low diameter hub you get way more torque while the amps you draw drops a lot quicker compared to 26inch wheel. Flys up hills like they dont exist.
~130lb rider weight definitely helps with performance
Really want to push the limits of this hub. Thought this controller would definitely make it hot but ive yet to make this hub warm/hot to the touch.
Only upgrade in mind is an upgrade to a 96v1500w controller, add another 4ah and wire it 3p2s for 116v12ah
That would probably need a longer swing arm... triangle is steel so weldable.. i also have the original swing arm from the heavy steel scooter it came off of....possible to weld it to the triangle as an extension?

Comments/questions/suggestions

Nice build, I like the look of the bike with the dual headlamps. Do you ever get hassled about not having pedals? I've read that NYC is cracking down on ebikes.

Nice build.
Why not buy a programmable 3000W sinewave controller so you can dial up the Amps to the value that starts heating up the hub enough? Member evolutiongts from E.R.T. here on E-S is selling and supporting them:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=85018&p=1254219#p1254219

https://www.electricrt.com/collections/controllers-1/products/e-r-t-3000w-sinewave-controller

Good chance your hub can take much more than a 1500W controller...

pwd said:

Nice build, I like the look of the bike with the dual headlamps. Do you ever get hassled about not having pedals? I've read that NYC is cracking down on ebikes.

Click to expand...

As long as your riding style isnt borderline causing accidents or actually causes one, NYC cops really dont care much about ebikes the way the news may make it seem. There's just as many Chinese throttle ebikes and peddle-less scooters as bicycles on the streets. As long as you stay off isolated bike paths when your on something that looks like it might need a license, you should be good. This is coming from someone who does 28-32mph regularly in a city with 25mph car speed limit. Their preferred targets are guys on 29" bmx's popping wheelies and doing stunts or groups of ATV/dirt bikes doing the same, both which are just as common as an ebike here in NYC, and even then those guys merely get chased away at best.

SlowCo said:

Nice build.
Why not buy a programmable 3000W sinewave controller so you can dial up the Amps to the value that starts heating up the hub enough? Member evolutiongts from E.R.T. here on E-S is selling and supporting them:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=85018&p=1254219#p1254219

https://www.electricrt.com/collections/controllers-1/products/e-r-t-3000w-sinewave-controller

Good chance your hub can take much more than a 1500W controller...

Click to expand...

I've been thinking lately and i love the power/weight/efficiency of ~1500 and the amount of battery I have now, don't think I need much more power on such a small frame. A bit more speed could help though. Right now I have a 96v "1000w" controller coming in, that may be my last upgrade to this bike as I'm getting an itch for a long travel DHframe. Its rated for 30amps and up to 120v.

Finally getting the hang of wheelies! This is With no back brake either since right now i use eabs as my only rear brake. Finally found my balance point the other day now it's just about fine throttle control. performance/wheelie progress video coming soon along with better pictures

Question, would a hub motor Axel be able to support bmx pegs? I've heard that axels aren't super strong but I also want a set of pegs on the motor itself. I'm just concerned about stressing the Axel or dropouts any more. Then again, I have torque arms on each sidend a steel swing arm. I feel the hub motor Axel would be the main thing to worry about.

Ballsy taking it to the balance point with no rear brake
You got no safety net without the brake, roll off throttle usually will not be quick enough especially when riding electric. But hey, you will gain awesome throttle control doing wheelies without rear brake, or a soar back

It's definitely a lot more challenging but I find as long as I keep speed very low it's not hard to "ride" the balance point with barely a pinch of throttle. Since i am constantly standing and shifting my weight to handle the bike, all it takes is a slight lean forward to put the bike down when it's in the air. By the way, im doing them standing too. Too much torque to do it sitting with no back brake. :lol: Standing on the pegs, preload the forks with a light pump on the handlebars, then touch the throttle while leaning all your weight forward to avoid doing a complete backflip. Too much weight forward and you ll go back down. Not enough and you better be ready to bail.
Dead stop take offs with 16" diameter @ 1500w are an torque junkie's dream

matt912836 said:

2x nes-350-27 meanwells in series set to 29v for a simple 58v12a charger.

Click to expand...

How do you like the Mean Well NES psu's?

Did they come out of the box already ground isolated or did you modify it so it was isolated?
How are they holding up?
Have they taken many falls and survived?

mcintyretj has the NES model but he hasnt been on since Aug.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=41170&p=1168818&hilit=nes#p1168818

Ah here is a nugget of info
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=80533&p=1186969&hilit=nes#p1186969
Yes the NES is are cc/cv.

The NES-350 series is a constant current - constant voltage power supply series much like the venerable S-350 that so many people use for a charger. Voltage is adjustable, current is not adjustable without a hack. They are fan cooled. They can be found for as little as $30 apiece on Ebay.

Click to expand...

https://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Bike-Charger-From-Mean-Well-Power-Supply/

markz said:

matt912836 said:

2x nes-350-27 meanwells in series set to 29v for a simple 58v12a charger.

Click to expand...

How do you like the Mean Well NES psu's?

Did they come out of the box already ground isolated or did you modify it so it was isolated?
How are they holding up?
Have they taken many falls and survived?

mcintyretj has the NES model but he hasnt been on since Aug.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=41170&p=1168818&hilit=nes#p1168818

Ah here is a nugget of info
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=80533&p=1186969&hilit=nes#p1186969
Yes the NES is are cc/cv.

The NES-350 series is a constant current - constant voltage power supply series much like the venerable S-350 that so many people use for a charger. Voltage is adjustable, current is not adjustable without a hack. They are fan cooled. They can be found for as little as $30 apiece on Ebay.

Click to expand...

https://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Bike-Charger-From-Mean-Well-Power-Supply/

Click to expand...

Considering this thread is almost two years old and im still using the same exact powet supplies from this project, they hold up amazingly well!! Longest lasting ebike component Ive had honestly. I now have these 2 power supplies in series with 3 20v 4a laptop power supplies which are in parallel, for an 84v 13ah charger with a very wide voltage range since i can unplug power supplies to change the range it reaches. Has not failed me once even after numerous drops. Adding an inline current-wattmeter to record exactly how many amps its drawing PLUS how many watthours gets fed back into my battery makes it so easy to tell the health of your battery. The same wattmeter i put on my bikes so the watthours i use on the bike should always be just around the watthours the charger puts back. The only problem i ran into is after changing the voltage up and down so much over the years the potentiometer in the power supply eventually gets loose.. the reason they even came off is because you have to use a screwdriver to turn them originally which put pressure on the soldered connections. Soldering it back on was a piece of cake though. I even added little extension wires so the potentiometers can be turned by hand.


The three 20v psus are sandwiched neatly between the two meanwells, allowing them to use the housings of both meanwells as heatsinks. Both meanwells have fans so they just kick on when the whole thing startd to get hot. Never had heat problems with this method, keeping them separated actually lead to the the laptop psus getting too hot and shutting down, the active cooling from the meanwells prevent this.

Yeah they do seem rugged. Did you put in some appropriate silicone to the components on the inside?
I am going to be doing that, Dow Corning RTV 748 it is reasonably priced and can buy it from Auckland Grainger, 300ml for like $15.

I used to ride with the mw hrp's usually in a groc bag off the hndl bar.
The 48V are like 43V so a tad over the 10S of 42V, the mod will work.
I purchased a 600W 48V SE model that is the same as the S but the SE has PFC. It is like 12A but the hrps in series would do 17A.

matt912836 said:

The three 20v psus are sandwiched neatly between the two meanwells, allowing them to use the housings of both meanwells as heatsinks. Both meanwells have fans so they just kick on when the whole thing startd to get hot. Never had heat problems with this method, keeping them separated actually lead to the the laptop psus getting too hot and shutting down, the active cooling from the meanwells prevent this.

Click to expand...

Wow, you didn't even have to modify the swingarm..

Kinda jealous. I haven't been able to find a frame that's compatible ( with some modification ) with 20" wheels AND is an extra large size.

What's your top speed these days? ever find the limit of that motor?

neptronix said:

Wow, you didn't even have to modify the swingarm..

Kinda jealous. I haven't been able to find a frame that's compatible ( with some modification ) with 20" wheels AND is an extra large size.

What's your top speed these days? ever find the limit of that motor?

Click to expand...

Sad to say this bike was involved in an accident quite some time ago.. just to be confiscated as evidence even though i wasnt at fault! never went through the hoops to get it back so wrote it off as a lesson learned.. make a bike fast enough so that someone who isnt paying attention can't come and hit you from behind...

I guess this thread would be appropriate to preview my latest iteration of a full suspension low diameter hub build... based off a v2100.. separate build thread coming soon