litespeed wrote:On nickel strips you want 20 to 25 mm wide .15 mm thick strips... best way to flow amps....you can also solder copper in the center of the strips for even more current flow.
So this method that you have applied wouldn't work for me. My battery is in that plastic case so the nickel wouldn't be flat with the battery.
My best option is to solder a thick copper wire to my bat pack??
How should I solder that wire? I think that this is not okay, or is it?
I'm also wondering how you connected those 3 packs together in one big pack? I assume that you have 3 so you can fit them on your bike.
On your scheme, I see only one series connection (line) between each 10P groups. Passing 200A through one single connection is going to be a major screaming flaw in this design (that single connection between each 3.6V 25Ah 1S10P grouop will not be enough to support 200A.... its will probably turn red hot iron in 50 milliseconds before bursting into sparks).
I would spread the 200A load, have not 0ne, but 10 series connection between each 1S10P groups....
So each cell of each 1P group connects to each cells of the next 1P group. That way you have 20A flowing in each series connection x 10 = 200A.
20A, if you use good copper will not overheat.
20A if you use bare nickel can be a problem and overheat, unless you use very thick (but tought to weld to cells) or very wide strips like the above example.
20A if you use the very ubiquitous nickel plated steel that 95% of ebay seller falsly claim to be real nickel will just melts, potentially damage your cells and/or cause a fire.
Fitting small nickel strip with only 1 series connection between each P-groups is like trying to extract high perfomance from a GSX1300R Hayabusa motorcycle only fitted with a 50cc moped carburator... Not gonna happen even if you have racing fuel and the best motor. You need a good system to inject that fuel... Same for battery current.
For the range of power you want, I would have choosen my battery arrangement first (knowing I want 10 series connections between each 1P groups), only then find a battery casing that fits around it, not the other way around.
The battery layout you have drawn if on of the worst configuration possible for hight powers....
Please check this very important thread before building your battery : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... k+mistakes
Battery is no jokes, it`s the single most important part of the ebike and it`s expensive. You can always fix it later on .... that is, when your precious cells have already sustained damage from heat overbuilding and have become unbalanced and now each have different internal resistances ...