Why not go with small slider pot? Takes less space, more controllable.zro-1 wrote: ↑Mar 18, 2018 3:42 pmI'm planning on changing out my standard bars for some bull horn bars. In anticipation of that change, I figured out how to make a 3-button throttle today. The idea is that the three buttons would be next to each other on the bars. You press button-1 to get 30% throttle, you press button-1 + button-2 together to get 60% throttle, and you press button-1, button-2, and button-3 together to get 100% throttle.
Here's what that circuit diagram looks like to do that:
And here's what the actual wiring would be like:
I'll be using the same micro momentary buttons that Kepler is using with his friction-drive bike.
Since I'm using a Phaserunner controller, the "throttle" settings won't determine my top speed, instead they'll determine how many amps are going into the motor. If you ignore a few things, and all else being equal, you can almost think of this as 30% assist, 60% assist, and 100% assist, as opposed to slow, medium, and full speeds. Of course, if you used a more traditional controller then the buttons would be setting the speed limit rather than the torque limit.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I guess because I didn't know how reliable a slider pot may be or if it was spring-loaded, and buttons on the grips are easy: squeeze to go.
Yeah, the weather-proof-ness and longevity of a pot worries me. A linear hall might not have been bad. I think overall though my 3-button design will be the most robust and accident-proof. I plan on inserting the buttons into some non-shrunk heat-shrink then sealing the ends with liquid tape and pressing them flat. I can then use the extended flat ends to go under the bar-tape to hold the buttons in place. It'll be completely sealed from water, and won't require additional zipties or tape to hold them in place.MonkeyWrench wrote: ↑Mar 20, 2018 6:40 pmI would be worried about the weatherproofness of a traditional slider pot as I am an all seasons rider. Plus they wear as they age and can result in some spotty throttle commands (or so I assume).
Been searching for an affordable linear Hall effect potentiometer in the right size.
That's stellar! All up incl the lipo bricks I'm at about 28 lb. Before conversion this bike, even though CF, was over 18 lb- probably some extra beef here and there due to it's cyclocross origin.
This motor is "rated" as 250W, but they sell it in 24V/36V/48V configurations. At 24V this motor would be running at 10.4A probably almost all the time.
Thanks for sharing those pics of your setup Kepler! I really like how you set the 2-buttons up. Honestly, you saying you think this will work well is a huge relief for me, because I really wasn't sure for a long time how to make it work. You sharing your wiring diagram on your for-sale thread really helped me get my head around how to wire the buttons up. If I hadn't seen that, I don't think I'd have come up with my version.Kepler wrote: ↑Mar 22, 2018 1:59 amI am a big fan of button throttles on low powered setups. Having the button set a current limit is in my opinion the best way to go which is essentially what you are planning from what i can see.
I think what you are proposing will work well and will suit the bull horn bars nicely.
This is my setup on drop bars. Very stealth and comfortable to use.
This will be a great data point to have! I'll be interested to hear about the tradeoffs between the Q100 and the YTW-06. Looking forward to your results.zro-1 wrote: ↑Mar 22, 2018 6:55 pmOne other tidbit:
Bonnie messaged me to let me know the motor had shipped, and in the message, she mentioned that they tested the motor and it was spinning at 230 RPM at 36V. That works out to 6.39 RPM/V, so at 48V, this motor should spin at 306.7 RPM. That's still dang fast in a 700c wheel with the added benefit that I'll have 17:1 gearing for loads of torque.
I can not wait to put this puppy through it's paces.