That will certainly be unique! post pics please
skeetab5780 wrote: ↑Jun 28 2018 3:47pmThe only other spot you can come out is up front where the cables enter on each side of the headtube. I have been keeping an eye on it just incase. I don't ride in the rain much anymore (free company truck) makes me lazy
single cog would work but then you need a chain tensioner and regular bmx chain, and its cheaper to use a derailur you have kicking around with 7-9 speed MTB chain components off a donor bike
edit: sorry to hear your bike got stolen you need any parts?
You need a shorter shock and also did I hear you say you're running a 48v controller and a 60v battery? That's not gonna work long. You will fry your controller but I guess it's a cheapy anyway so no biggie but you definitely need a shorter shock. I wouldn't go changing the frame cause you're messing with the geometry. Call vector and ask them what size shock it takes. Just my 2 cents.
Nice someone from CT, let me know if you want to get out for a nice 20 miles rip one dayRaketemensch wrote: ↑Aug 04 2018 10:54pmThis has been a great thread, thanks for keeping it updated. I’m in NW CT, just about on the MA border, and the roads around here are ridiculously hilly, so regular cycling is kinda not realistic for me. It sounds like that may be the case for you as well.
I’m about to start my first rear-hub conversion project, while thinking about a more specialized frame further down the road, so threads like this are my favorite thing on the internet right now.
Did the new crankset fix your chain issues too?
Thanks for reply, yes the shock was me being cheap and not buying good stuff at first...And then I had to file the shock mount down a bit to get it to fit in the top swingarm position to make it perfect, now there is not pedal strike happening on corners and the geometry is as good as it will get for this frame.