10 kW Giant Glory 1

galp

100 W
Joined
Mar 22, 2014
Messages
196
Location
Slovenia, EU
Here's my Giant Glory 1 downhill bike conversion.

[youtube]mw0MbFbwiJo[/youtube]


The bike used for this project is a downhill bike Giant Glory 1. It is a full suspension 26" bicycle with 180 mm front and 200mm back travel.

Before mounting the rear motor wheel some modifications had to be made. Because the existing rear hub was "thru axle" I had to machine two mounts the change it to standard 150 mm dropout in which the motor wheel fit. Because the new axis of rotation is now 32 mm off center the disc brake mount had to be modified. The disc brake rotor was also replaced with a bigger one.

Before machining the mount from aluminum I made few test mounts from MDF wood. The mount was spot-on after 3 iterations of trial and error. It was then machined from 20 mm thick 5083 aluminum alloy plate.

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All fixtures for batteries and electronics were made to clamp the frame. The motor mounts are also screwed into existing holes and clamped. There was no drilling or any other modification to the frame. The whole conversion was set to be completely reversible without any damage to the frame or bike as a whole. The reason behind that is the cost of a downhill bike.

Peak power is rated to 5 kW. With 26" tire maximum reachable speed is 120 km/h. Rated peak torque is 150 Nm. This means in theory with 26" tires and 70 kg rider the peak acceleration is about 0.45G.

0X6iFOL.jpg


The motor controller came in a kit with the hub motor. It is advertised to deliver up to 80A phase current. Along with LCD screen interface that also came in a kit they offer some nice features such as password locking, realtime speed and power monitoring and adjusting various BLDC parameters. The motor controller uses hall sensors and is most likely square wave (based on vibrations at low speed).

Battery pack consist of 100 18650 cells wired in 20S5P scheme. Individual cells were ordered with solder tags already welded. Laser cut copper parts are be used to connect cells together to form a pack. Each cell is inserted in a plastic frame that is assembled like lego bricks. Solder tags are soldered to copper part for electrical connection.

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Pack is split in 3 smaller packs to fit on the frame. Two large parts in configuration 8S5P and one smaller in configuration 4S5P. All packs are connected to a single 80A BMS.

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Nominal voltage of the pack is 72V. Cells are rated to deliver 20A continiously which means the pack current capacity is 100A. With 2.5 Ah capacity for each cell the total pack capacity is 12.5 Ah or 900 Wh.

To complete the battery pack 20S 80A BMS is installed. It protects the battery in case of over-discharge, over-charge and over-current. It also balances individual elements wired in series so a simple CC/CV charger can be used.

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Electric drive:
-Power: 5 kW
-Peak torque 150 Nm
-Square wave ESC
-Top speed ~100 km/h, freewheel 120 km/h, limited 25 km/h

Investment:
-Used bike 920€
-Motor and electronics 800€
-Battery cells 350€
-BMS and charger 150€
-Other small stuff 200€
Total: ~ 2.4k€
 
i run the same frame in! love the suspension on the Maestro frames :twisted:

any reason your on an air shock instead of coil?
 
great job on the torque arms! What a great solution for thru axles. I haven't seen that before
 
Thanks. Having a small CNC helps a ton.

Today I hooked up one of those hall-coloumbo-volt-ampere-meter thingy from ebay. Then I did a test with charging current and Agilent multimeter and it was correct give or take 0.1 A. What most surprised me is that the chinese motor controller really outputs 5 kW. Looks like it has input current limit set to 80 A. The test was with 2/3 drained battery (69 V). I'll report peak power tomorrow with full battery.
Second thing that surprised me were the batteries. When designing the battery pack I calculated total internal resistance to be around 110 mOhm. This was done using cell's datasheet value for IR and estimating conductor resistance. The funny thing is the voltage drop at 80 A is only 4 V. Looks like the IR halved itself or I made an error in calculation. Cells are INR18650-25R in 20S5P configuration.

Btw: because 5 kW just isn't enough I'm designing a high power ESC based on VESC for my ebike. You can read more about it here.

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Congratulation on your bike, I‘m very impressed indeed. I am wondering if you could post me additional photos and even better technical drawings of the dropouts you designed, and modifications of brake mounts as I plan to make similar project (in fact I want to use mid motor and IGH in the rear so I need to modify dropouts).
 
Excellent work and thanks for the 3d PDF.

I have a 2009 Giant Glory, I originally bought it for the FOX suspension for my FUTR Alpha build.

I bought DNM USD8 Suspension to get it back rolling, and have been sitting on it contemplating converting it to electric.

With this frame a mid drive such as a BBSHD might fit up in the cutout - but I like what you have done to convert it to rear dropouts for a hub motor.

I haven't used a mill or even got anyone to do that for me yet. Would you be interested in making an extra set? There could be a few people interested I'm sure.
If so what price could you do them for do you think?

No stress otherwise, I can look into getting them made here locally based off your excellent computer modelling.

Thanks, Lash.
 
Ok, happy to have a go at getting them done locally. It's been a long time (school days) since I've used CAD, so it will be good to have a play around and get up to speed with all this new technology.

So yeah, if you can send the step files that would be fantastic.
either by email lee@leeashby.com
or upload them to this dropbox folder
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/knh96k4ta5m3bl6/AAA-LsEtQRx2dgS74mNoDAmLa?dl=0

Cheers.
 
Like many I am very impressed with your build. I run a Cyclone 3000 mid drive in a Kona Coiler DH frame. Like you I haven't enough room to put the battery in the frame triangle. At present it is in a battery bag on a modified alloy carrier.This is fastened to the cross bar with 6mm riv nuts. It is very secure but it makes the bike a bit top heavy which affects the handling paricularly on tight twisty trail riding which I do a lot of. The only practical way forward for me is to mount the battery under the downtube like you have done. can you let perhaps have a few close up pics of how you have mounted it. I would want to be able to easily remove the battery for charging, storage etc.
Also I am intrigued by your controller. Is it programmable by bluetooth or similar? You seem to be able to buy it separately on Aliexpress. Mine is supposed to be 60a max at present but the most I have seen on my wattmeter is 50a. Thanks
 
Good news. Got my custom controller up and running. Tested it to 60V 60A and everything looks very promising. :bigthumb: :bigthumb:



Here's a video of a test run:
[youtube]lDOkBaCXiCE[/youtube]

Unfortunately I'll have to set this project aside until semester finals are over. Can't wait to test what 200 A phase current feels like. :mrgreen:
 
Installed the controller in my bike and made some test with 200A phase current. Everything runs smoothly and I'm very happy with results. Acceleration is just insane although I think very low rpm torque is a bit lower than it was with square wave controller. Can't wait to test top speed but I'll probably have to wait until winter is over.

Because of FOC the motor doesn't make any noise. The torque is constant and there's no ugly vibrations at low speeds. It just goes, no noise, no nothing, just power. Almost like magic. :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Here's how the enclosure looks like without the side panel. I added a rubber seal on the edge to prevent dust and water from entering.
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Here's how the whole bike looks now. It isn't too bad. Actually it looks a bit better when a person rides it. There's some tape on the edges I put there for testing because the enclosure is either missing parts or is not sealed yet in some areas.
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I also installed hubsink and statorade to help with motor heat. Difference is huge!
BrfE0qHl.png


Current controller settings:
  • True FOC
  • Phase current: 200A
  • Battery current: 125A
  • Motor temperature: 100°C reduce power, 120°C cut power
  • Low battery: 65V reduce power, 62V cut power
 
galp said:
Some fails on snow. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :confused:

[youtube]ySsZVVlxIrY[/youtube]

Terrible handling, this video perfectly shows why mid drive is superior for offroading.
 
How could you determine mid drive is better just from video showing ONLY crashes on super slippery snow? You haven't even seen the rest of my 45 min ride. :roll: :roll:

It was my first time on snow and my bike has an old worn out tire on the back wheel. While there are certain advantages to mid drive (like lower center of gravity) I personally prefer hub motor because of mechanical simplicity and zero maintenance. I also like quiet smooth riding. To each his own I guess.
 
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