I received my cyclone 3000w kit from Luna and I plan to install it on my Rocket 1 mountain bike over the winter. The stock mounting seems inadequate and they are out of stock on the upgraded mount. I can tell that it will take some work to get it right but I have all winter. Anybody know of any better mounts available let me know. I'm not sure if my chain ring 48 48 24 will fit so I may have to order a smaller one. I may order the ISIS crank. I plan to use a 72 volt battery mounted in a triangle bag. I will update on the build and welcome suggestions and comments.
Cyclone 3000w winter project
- Thread starter Domhelp
- Start date
Did you forget these?
https://lunacycle.com/parts/cyclone-parts/ebrake-sensors-for-cyclone-kit/
https://lunacycle.com/parts/cyclone-parts/ebrake-sensors-for-cyclone-kit/
pwd
10 kW
Hey Dom,
i'm glad to see you will be starting your winter build. If you haven't seen it check out the large cyclone thread here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&start=3050
That bike looks like it has lots of room for a battery.
How much did your kit end up costing after taxes/duty? I'm tempted to try a mid-drive build too.
i'm glad to see you will be starting your winter build. If you haven't seen it check out the large cyclone thread here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&start=3050
That bike looks like it has lots of room for a battery.
How much did your kit end up costing after taxes/duty? I'm tempted to try a mid-drive build too.
I paid $ 389.90 for the kit because I upgraded some stuff then I paid $55 shipping and that was it $ 449 90 US dollars. delivered by FedEx I think they collected the taxes or shipping price included the taxes. I have not seen my statement but that is what I am expecting to see.
If you have basic means and skills to fabricate, then I would suggest a simple block of aluminum between front and back motor bracket. Snug fit, pressed in line between BB and motor axis. then drill through bracket from both sides, two holes each side at ends of that block. Remove block, drill holes to suitable depth and cut thread. Re-drill holes in brackets larger, to accommodate bolts going thru to threaded holes.
That's a great idea and it's similar to the idea that I had. I also would like to have a bracket or clamp on the tube frame and connecting to the motor so I don't have to use that silly worm clamp. But really the upgraded clamp from luna would save me having to make this stuff so I plan to inquire about availability.
I decided to do away with the derailer because it would not work. From what I've read 10 gears is more than enough. Heck the Sur Ron does not have any gears. I am surprised about how stiff the stock mount is. The metal is very rigid. I can't get any movement just by hand. The old mount grabbed the motor in a weak way and at a bad location. I still plan to add reinforcements but to a lesser extent. Do people find the new mount to be inadequate and which way does the motor move, to the right and down?
Attachments
I think this might be better if the brace was a "Z" shape to turn the trapezoid between the bottom bracket and motor in to two triangles.
You could also fold over the edges of the "/" of the "Z" to resist buckling under compression stress.
A triangle is a stable shape and it translates every force at the vertices in to pure tension or compression in the sides, no bending forces. This is why trusses are made up of triangles.
Trapezoids, parallelograms and other polygons having more than three sides don't make very good structures, your " ] " shape brace makes the trapezoid in to two smaller trapezoids. It may be somewhat effective but force on the motor will still create bending moments on the plates.
pwd
10 kW
Hey Dom, thanks for sharing your updates. I'll probably end up doing something similar with the bracket if/when I do a mid drive build. The winter is bad for me hahah, I spend a lot of time reading and the shopping list for ebike stuff just continues to grow. So your bike's derailleur won't shift from 48 to 24? What exactly was the issue?
Hi,
You definately need a fat bike or a snowmobile for winter in your area. The derailleur would not work for two reasons. The size difference between 24 and 44 teeth means that when on 24 the derailleur is too high on the frame so the chain is hung up on the back of the derailleur, my mistake should have ordered a bigger gear I think 32 0r 36 would not have this problem. Also the derailleur will not extend far out but maybe it could have been adjusted. My 44 tooth sprocket just misses the chainstay so this is an issue that everyone may have depending on their particular bike. I cannot fit a 48 tooth so I hope I like my top speed. I'm sure that I can get another derailleur to work but I don't think I'll need one. Edit...I did order a 48 tooth and it just barely fits.
You definately need a fat bike or a snowmobile for winter in your area. The derailleur would not work for two reasons. The size difference between 24 and 44 teeth means that when on 24 the derailleur is too high on the frame so the chain is hung up on the back of the derailleur, my mistake should have ordered a bigger gear I think 32 0r 36 would not have this problem. Also the derailleur will not extend far out but maybe it could have been adjusted. My 44 tooth sprocket just misses the chainstay so this is an issue that everyone may have depending on their particular bike. I cannot fit a 48 tooth so I hope I like my top speed. I'm sure that I can get another derailleur to work but I don't think I'll need one. Edit...I did order a 48 tooth and it just barely fits.
I have the controller in the triangle bag. I can unzip it and let it hang out if heats up too much. I have a 72v 20amph lithium battery on the rack. My intention was to put a battery in a triangle bag but this battery is too big. The battery weighs 17.5 LBS. The motor weighs 12.5 LBS. Total weight is about 70LBS. One final part I need is an amp meter. I am waiting for good weather to try it and work out the kinks. I think it's going to be a wheelie machine. if I don't like this setup I will buy a smaller battery and put it in the triangle.
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I have the same motor on the mid 44T pedal chain ring and a 72v 16aH lithium battery though probably older cells than yours. I started the build about the same time as you but I have about 500-700 miles atm on it and would say 16-20 aH is very small for this motor. It wants that power to push it. It is a good motor no doubt but what I am saying is your 20aH is the lowest you would want to go.
mebe, i am getting less range in this cold weather or our range expectations are different. but, imo, 16-20 aH is not that big for a 72V 3000w motor. on my 16 aH, i am getting 25-35 miles but i never run it that low soc so i am probably doimg half that before charging at 50% soc. i think i would be satisfied with 50-70 miles and then charge at 50% soc so an effective 25-35 range.
Domhelp said:
25miles is realistic on 16Ah if you are using throttle only.
The more expensive the battery, the smaller it will get for the same capacity. Your triangle could certainly hold a battery even bigger, it just needs to be a triangle with the proper shape. Many aliexpress vendors will build to shape. I used unitpackpower. They are decent.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=88921&start=100#p1414867
Mild day so I decided to try it out. Very happy no problems. Motor mount is solid I don't anticipate flexing issues.
Throttle is jumpy and sensitive need to get used to it. Is it adjustable? You don't need a lot of gears with a 72v setup. I have a 48 on the front and I don't really need to use the biggest ring on the back. It will wheelie too much. Of course if you plan to pedal up big hills you will need a smaller front ring. Using the motor you can leave it in one gear, for the most part, and still enjoy good climbing and top speed. Have not tested top speed but I am guessing its about 80kmh.
I still need to install an amp gauge. After riding for about an hour my voltage under load was 68v but I can't tell how good the battery performed without a gauge.
Total cost (CAN Dollars tax not included)
Bike was a steal at $400 on Black Friday, Cyclone 3000 kit $640 shipped, battery $750, triangle bag $54, rack $32, 1800 lumen headlight $70, suntour seat post $100, riser stem $14, handle bars $21, cycle analyst $ 170, miscleaneous $50
Total cost about $2320
Throttle is jumpy and sensitive need to get used to it. Is it adjustable? You don't need a lot of gears with a 72v setup. I have a 48 on the front and I don't really need to use the biggest ring on the back. It will wheelie too much. Of course if you plan to pedal up big hills you will need a smaller front ring. Using the motor you can leave it in one gear, for the most part, and still enjoy good climbing and top speed. Have not tested top speed but I am guessing its about 80kmh.
I still need to install an amp gauge. After riding for about an hour my voltage under load was 68v but I can't tell how good the battery performed without a gauge.
Total cost (CAN Dollars tax not included)
Bike was a steal at $400 on Black Friday, Cyclone 3000 kit $640 shipped, battery $750, triangle bag $54, rack $32, 1800 lumen headlight $70, suntour seat post $100, riser stem $14, handle bars $21, cycle analyst $ 170, miscleaneous $50
Total cost about $2320
pwd
10 kW
Hey Dom,
congrats on getting the bike out for a test! Looks like you planned your build well. Enjoy that wheelie machine.
congrats on getting the bike out for a test! Looks like you planned your build well. Enjoy that wheelie machine.
Domhelp said:
There is an app for the Cyclone 3kW. I got my kit from SBP and they provided me with instructions to get the app. I will paste it soon it is a bit involved and I just wanted to let you know there is a way to do it. I would also preface I have not used the app yet because IDIOT Apple locked me out of my phone apps. But, supposedly, the throttle is set at SOFT START 5. There is SOFT START 1 to 10 and FAST START 1 to 10 that you can set in the app among other things. I probably dont need to tell u how dangerous FAST START 10 will be given SOFT START 5 is the default. I swear if I accidently go WOT I will flip the bike and really hurt myself. Some people get a power meter (must get 72V compatible; all the 10-25$ ones only go up to 60V) or Cycle Analyst to measure the power. For me, I measure starting resting voltage and then ending to get a sense of the power and efficiency. I would say 2-3mi per V is decent, 1mi per V you are really juicing it, 3-4mi per V you are really pedaling with the bike. Your batteries is probably better than mine though.
You should make some YT videos. Its pretty fun to document the speed and car reactions when you smoke them off the line. Also, then I can challenge you to speed or distance races. Our bikes are similar but you do have 4aH more than me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaWkrwDkETs&t=570s
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