55.2kw bicycle

:lol:
Wow this is not a bicycle but a motorcycle with pedals...



ebike.jpg



I hope you will upgrade the front end to motorcycle fork, wheel, tire and brake before you ride it to make sure it holds up in case of an emergency stop. A second hand chopper front end with a 21" wheel would do the trick. As with the weight and speed it seems capable of bending or breaking the current components.
And is the wide rear rim your own upgrade or does QS motors sell that as well? And why have you chosen the 260 instead of the 273 size motor?
Great build, good luck and please update this thread while building :thumb:
 
Dylandesmond said:
I was hoping the dnm usd 8a is enough for street use ....?
Click to expand...

It's a 3,3kg bicycle fork with 35mm aluminium inner tubes meant for light weight mountain bikes...
I woundn't dare to use that on a motorcycle with the weight (how much total including rider?) and speed you're aiming at :shock:
 
The problem is not the front weight stationary or riding. It's the weight transfer when needing to make an emergency stop. Depending on the maximum brake force you can generate at the front wheel, almost all of the (total) weight will be on the front tire, rim and fork.


stoppie.png


I understand the layout of the bike isn't intended to do stoppies or stunts with but don't underestimate the forces generated on the front fork when braking to a sudden halt:

 
So if the QS 260 is 1.5-5kw how is this one running at 60kw? I find miscellaneous suggestions of 70h peaking at 10kw.

http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/QS%20Motor%2014inch%201500W~5000W%20260%20Electric%20Scooter%20Hub%20Motor/564.html
 
Opto 1000amp phase is pulling 480amps max battery at（126v）30s nano 50c 45ah pack sagging to around 115v , thank you for those who helped, im upgrading my whole front to full moto ,appreciated the help

for those who have nothing but trolling to do i cant be bothered sharing anything, i posted on here for help and to say hi,

happy thoughts, enjoy your trolling
 
SlowCo said:
The problem is not the front weight stationary or riding. It's the weight transfer when needing to make an emergency stop. Depending on the maximum brake force you can generate at the front wheel, almost all of the (total) weight will be on the front tire, rim and fork.


stoppie.png


I understand the layout of the bike isn't intended to do stoppies or stunts with but don't underestimate the forces generated on the front fork when braking to a sudden halt:

20070722_stoppie_crash_moto-706209.jpg
Click to expand...

good point ive just upgraded from a 2wd 3kturbo bmx running dual kls7250h with no suspension to this. im taking it easy at the moment as im running mtb front with magura mt5e using regen 203mm single

sounds like going dual brakes on these forks might be bad. thought theyll hold up with 20mm axles ???

any suggestions for good SOLID suspension???
 
Just search for a good second hand front end of a moped/motorcycle with similar weight and speed. Chopper or Off Road bike front end would suit as they often have larger (19-21") front wheels that would look good on your type of build.
 
For that kind of weight and speed, the best retrofit is probably a motocross fork from a long term popular model. It will have much, much more structural integrity than any bicycle fork, but also plenty of aftermarket support for changing its travel, spring rate, and damping.
 
Kelly likes to name their controllers after the phase amps, not the battery amps. 60 kW is never going to happen with that setup, because it will only output the maximum 700 amps at low speed (low voltage). To calculate the maximum power of your bike you need to use battery amps (the input current to the controller, which is actually at your battery voltage), which is configurable for Kelly controllers as a percentage of phase amps, but likely no more than 50%. You probably have a 30 kW bicycle, at most (which is still a lot). See this thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=94735
 
I agree 60kW is not likely for more than a millisecond, but 30kW on something that light will be more than enough.
 
On the other hand, there is no need for 60kW to reach 130km/h.
20-25kW should be enough to reach that top speed.
The fork and the brakes are NOT what you want to have on such a bike. I would buy the best i can afford, and if gatorbrakes are the best you can afford, then forget this project.
After upgrading the fork to some kind of motor cylce type your frame will be the weakest part. I wouldn't want that to be the case either ...
 
Dylandesmond said:
actually i upgraded from the 400amp kls and have only noticed only changes at takeoff on acceleration was expecting double till top speed.
Click to expand...

If you insist on playing this high stakes game, you need to study the effects of voltage and current on motor output, and study the relationship between speed and power (which isn't linear). Learn to read and make sense of a motor torque/power/current/RPM graph. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to fully understand the effects of high current on wire gauge and voltage drop (which also aren't linear).

Spend some time experimenting with the e-bikes.ca motor simulator and the kreuzotter.de power and speed calculator.

I think one way or another, you'll find that stuffing more and more current into your system is an expensive way to cause yourself problems but not substantially increase real performance.
 
The most power I've seen drawn on a dyno from any brushless Kelly controller is ~44kW, and that one was claiming 800amps (running on 28s).

If you swapped to the ASI BAC8000, or a pair of them, you should be able to feed that motor 60kW for bursts plenty long for a bicycles acceleration rate.
 
Yea thanks, i ended up getting an opto 120v 500amp battery doesn't quite do the 500amp （480amp battery is as high i can get it, my shunt might be wrong maybe）, dunno if its doing 1000amp phase, ill be getting a batrium bms shortly to monitor everything alot better,

cheers for your help
 
haulincolin said:
Kelly likes to name their controllers after the phase amps, not the battery amps. 60 kW is never going to happen with that setup, because it will only output the maximum 700 amps at low speed (low voltage). To calculate the maximum power of your bike you need to use battery amps (the input current to the controller, which is actually at your battery voltage), which is configurable for Kelly controllers as a percentage of phase amps, but likely no more than 50%. You probably have a 30 kW bicycle, at most (which is still a lot). See this thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=94735
Click to expand...

I am looking at a Kelly controller and I see 200A (which is phase amps) then divide by 1.5 so its really a 133A at the battery.
The internal programming is limited to a max of 50%?
Don't some people go beyond 50%?

Kelly KEB they list for ebike then the KLS-S which people have used on ebikes.
Then the other models like KLS-NM is reasonably priced $149+ sealed unit and sinewave.
KLS8080I $600+ and IPS $600+, KLS8080H $500+, KLS-D $359+ all usd.
 
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