Gear Reduction Motor Heating

Kale44

100 µW
Joined
Dec 25, 2019
Messages
8
Hi there,

I'm choosing between 2 motors for an electric wheelbarrow, used for heavy-hauls up long hills.

Both are low RPM and high torque.

#1. MY1016LZ 350W 24V Geared Motor 180 RPM. Rated torque of 18.3Nm

#2. XYD-18 500W 24V Geared Motor 420 RPM. Rated torque of 9.2Nm.

I am looking at an RPM of rougly 100rpm for a walking speed.

Wondering will using a a gear reduction, of say 4:1 on choice #2 create overheating in the motor?

After gear reduction, will both have an apprx. similar amount of torque despite difference in wattage?

Thankyou<>
 
Kale44 said:
#1. MY1016LZ 350W 24V Geared Motor 180 RPM. Rated torque of 18.3Nm

#2. XYD-18 500W 24V Geared Motor 420 RPM. Rated torque of 9.2Nm.

I am looking at an RPM of rougly 100rpm for a walking speed.

Wondering will using a a gear reduction, of say 4:1 on choice #2 create overheating in the motor?

After gear reduction, will both have an apprx. similar amount of torque despite difference in wattage?
the wattage rating typically means the amount of power you can run thru it without overheating it, continuously. sometimes they're rated conservatively, and sometimes the marketing department gets a little overexcited and says they can do more than actually possible without special conditions. ;)

If you use a 4:1 speed reduction, you get a 1:4 torque increase. it *should* also decrease heat under the same conditions as without the reduction.

probably the torque rating they have is at stall, zero rpm. to know what torque you actually get out of them, under specific conditions, you'd need to have a dyno chart from the manufacturer (not likely available). but you can get an idea of what happens to torque vs rpm vs power etc by going to http://ebikes.ca/simulator, reading the entire page so you understand what thing are and do and how to use it, and then pick a few different systems and play with them under various conditions, to see how they react. that may let you judge how the systems you're considering may react, even though they're different from what's in the simulator.
 
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If you use a 4:1 speed reduction, you get a 1:4 torque increase. it *should* also decrease heat under the same conditions as without the reduction.

[/quote]

Thanks Amberwolf, great info. I had a play with the simulator, putting the human power down to zero and the weight up to 130kg on a 10% grade. This has most of the motors overheating in 10 mins flat. Which confirmed my thoughts a regular ebike motor isn't cut out for slow heavy hauling.

Searching on this forum for Electric wheelbarrow, motors used for power assisted-wheelchairs get recommended.

If anyone has any suggestions, I was looking into worm gears as well, but the rated amps they draw is large.

Here are the links to the motors I posted before if anyone is interested.

https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/my1016lz-350w-24v-geared-motor.html

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/XYD-18-36V-48V-500W-1000W_449412960.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.88.287845897AONDU
 
hey kale
A friend of mine built an e-barrow. He used a 250w unite motor (one with a built in 9:1 reduction) then reduced it further 4:1 using chain and sprockets. it was just a brushed motor and he didn't bother even putting a controller on it- just a hefty on/off switch (actually I think it was two contacts on the grip he squeezed :lol:) . it lurched a bit but the reduction was so high it wasn't an issue. he was able to haul a full load in his wheel barrow up his really steep block without issue, prolly a 70mt run. I think by the time he'd re loaded the barrow any heat had dissipated. basically what he could handle, it could haul at 2-3kph. the CA simulator deals mostly with hubs...which would be completely unsuitable for comparison. what motor did you choose on it?
ive run both of the motors you've suggested on my mountain board. the XYD is a FAR better motor, the unite ones are POS (but the units with built in reduction make it easy). good to see motion dynamics are still going!
look for something with planetary reduction not worm drives...they're inefficient and wont allow coasting or regen braking if you want to go that way.
 
kdog said:
. the CA simulator deals mostly with hubs...which would be completely unsuitable for comparison.
Thankfully it has a middrive option to introduce gearing between motor and wheel. ;)
 
Ha I knew that was going to trip me up.... Haven't used the simulator for s while....but I have never noticed that option. Thanks for pointing it out.

If I plugin enough reduction to keep speed down to 3kph on a small hub it never overheats even on 25deg with zero human power and 100kg. OP should be able to make his project work.
 
Thanks Kdog and Amberwolf, I put in the mid-drive option with reduction and that changed it. And the tip to avoid worm motors saved some time. And XYD does get better reviews than unite you're right.

I had already made a prototype of an EW, a 350W with 9.1 reduction and another 4:1 on the chain, it could haul 120kg uphill well. However I'm looking for long-distance use, and although the heat problem sounds fine, batteries to keep it going for 8hrs would be huge (160ah+ by my newbie calculations), so thinking of switching to a small diesel engine instead.

https://www.electricscooterparts.com/battery-pack-calculator.html

I used this calculator, however I'm not sure if it takes into account Puerkerts Law and temperature/altitude problems where it will be used.

All this combined I'm amazed EV cars/trucks can be used for long distance and still be practical for day to day recharge.
 
Kale44 said:
batteries to keep it going for 8hrs would be huge (160ah+ by my newbie calculations),

160ah / 8h = 20A continuous current load.
'
24v * 20A = 480w that the battery has to provide, the motor would probably be less than 400w, 300-350w, of actual work being done (the rest is wasted as heat between wires, controller, and motor).

So that sounds about right, if you need that much power continously the entire time it's being used, and it's running constantly at that maximum for 8 hours.

fwiw, 160ah * 24v = 3480wh

On my very heavy SB Cruiser trike, using inefficient hubmotors in the wheels, I get around 30-35 miles of range, at around 15-18mph average, 20mph max, using a 52v 40ah pack that is about 2kwh. It's using around 800-1000w continously to go 20mph, and up to a few kw to get up to that speed, on the flats.

That pack is around 35-40lbs, so your pack would be around 60-70lbs, if made of the same cells, and would be a volume about a cube a foot and a half on each side (could be any shape, that's just a volume estimate). So it's not all that bad, but it is a lot of extra weigth to have to move uphill, which will affect your carrying capacity.

If you can instead use smaller packs that can be swapped out, and left on the charger when not in use, it would still be pretty practical.
 
BTW, something els eyou might look into is old brushed powerchair motors. They already have gearboxes built in, with axles for outputs, so you can directly bolt wheels to them. They're meant to run on 24v, too. Iv'e seen powerchairs at thrift stores for $50 or less dependign on conditon, almost always the only thing wrong with them is dead lead-acid batteries and worn upholstery/etc. Sometiems tires are worn out or plastics broken, but you don't need any of that stuff anyway (except tires, but those are easy to get).

They *are* heavy, but practicallly bulletproof. There are 600-700w versions, which have heavier-duty gearboxes, but the common ones are 300-400w. Some are two-pole and some are four, whcih respectively have two brushholders or four. The fourpole are half the speed of the twopole but have twice the torque. ;)

You could also use the axle output to hold a sprocket and get further reduction if you like, greater torque and lower speed.

I did that on the first powered version of CrazyBike2 (link in my signature), and it had enough torque that when chains jammed it would destroy the bike sprockets, even pull the bike wheel's axle out of the dropouts and rip spokes out of the rim. :lol: :oops:


They do use worm gears in the gearboxes, but they ahve a lever on them to disengage the output from the gearing so you can push the powerchair by hand, for many versions.
 
35 miles of range on the cruiser is impressive. And the crazybike creation too.

"160ah / 8h = 20A continuous current load." I've read that lead acid batteries (which I'm using for cheaper price) should not be discharged lower than %25, so wouldn't I need something like 200ah batteries?

The battery pack swapping is a good idea. I've been told regen braking would not be an option, as walking speed would not be enough to generate any electricity back into the batteries.

The motor I posted earlier seems similar to the wheelchair motors you mentioned. I had read a post of yours earlier that mentioned the powerchairs and made me change my mind to these motors.

https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/my101 ... motor.html
 
Kale44 said:
"160ah / 8h = 20A continuous current load." I've read that lead acid batteries (which I'm using for cheaper price) should not be discharged lower than %25, so wouldn't I need something like 200ah batteries.
Going by the common wisdom about SLA, even going below 50% will shorten their lifespan (which is already very short, only a hundred or so cycles; I got a lot less out of the ones I started out powering by bikes with way back when). You also have to recharge them immediately after use; leaving them in teh discharged state causes damage.

Then there's the Peukert effect, which wastes a huge amount of the capacity available in a lead-acid battery (not nearly so much in most other chemistries; hardly even noticeable in Lithium packs).

All the numbers below are off the top of my head, so you'll need to look up actual present-day numbers for batteries; my direct experience with them is almost a decade old, since I switched over to NiMh, then RC LiPo, LiFePO4, and now NMC for the last 8 or 9 years, I think it is.

So, you might need up to 300Ah+ of lead, which is going to be immensely heavy.

Even the original 160Ah is going to be hundreds of pounds--completely impractical.

IIRC, the last set of SLA I used were group 35s, like a lot of powerchairs use. I think they were about 9"x7"x9", and weighed about 35-40lbs each, for only around 20-25Ah usable (the 35Ah+ claimed is at 1/20C, meaning 0.05 * 35Ah = 1.75A current draw. At the high currents needed for motors and stuff, peukert effect steals so much energy you don't get anywhere near the rated Ah).

So, if you used group 35 SLAs, you'd put two in series, for 24v 35Ah nominal. To get 160Ah you'd need 160 / 35 = 4.5, so 5 of those pairs of batteries. That's 10 of them. If they weigh conservatively 30lbs each, that's 300lbs. If you only were able to use say, half of the actual capacity, you'd really only have 80Ah. So to get the actual 160Ah, you'd need 600lbs of SLA to do that.

It's worse than that, though, because the mass of the batteries is so great it will rival or exceed the system and load mass, so the power needed just to move the batteries themselves is so high you have to use more batteries just to do that. :shock:

Generally the group35 size is around $80-$100 each, so it would cost you up to $1000 for one set of 10, or $2000-$4000 for the full set of 20 or 40 you may actually need.

You can look up numbers for the various types of SLA to see what actually works out best for your application...but I can virtually guarantee you it isn't cheaper for your purposes, given the lack of capacity you can get out of them, the mass you have to use, and the fact they must power the motor enough to move themselves up the hill along with the rest of the system. :( This page has some info on sizes, though they don't list the weights, etc
https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html

A 160Ah 24v lithium battery, which will be fairly small and light, will last 10-50 times as long as a lead-acid pack, and will probably cost less than $1000. ;) A quick google finds 12v 160Ah LiFePO4 packs for around $500 each or less, though that's on Alibaba / Aliexpress, so from unknown Chinese vendors, and unknown shipping costs and times. So two of those in series, or one of the 24v versions (about twice the cost) would work. Specs vary, but on average I find the 12v units are around a foot by a foot and a half by 7-9", and around 60lbs.

I've been told regen braking would not be an option, as walking speed would not be enough to generate any electricity back into the batteries.
It's not the ground speed that's important, it's the motor speed. Since that will still be the same speed (presumably) walking downhill unpowered as the motor will power the system uphill, then the motor (because of the gearing between wheel and motor) will generate the same voltage downhill that it took to power it uphill, and if the voltage of teh batery is lower than that, current will flow into the battery.

That's only if there is no freewheel or clutch between the wheel and the motor, though. So for instance with the pwoerchair motors with worm gears, they won't really bea ble to be pushed downhill without motor power; you'd have to disengage the clutch on the gearing and lose the regen ability. If it's not a worm gear it will proably work ok.


But regen is only likely to recapture a few percent, maybe up to a quarter, of the energy used, depends on the situation. Might be worth having, assuming the extra wear on the mechanical parts of the system, and the potential inability to use the system without the motor, are compensated for by whatever amount of energy you get back.



https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/my101 ... motor.html

Your link is incomplete; you'll have to repost the part after "my101".
 
https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/
my1016lz-350w-24v-geared-motor.html

If that link works.

Thanks again for the info, much appreciated. You've done the battery maths before.
$500 for batteries is undo-able, maybe a battery price drop will occur in the near future.

Are there any examples of a small EV for long range with no assistance/pedal power? Seems undo-able without huge out costs.

"It's worse than that, though, because the mass of the batteries is so great it will rival or exceed the system and load mass, so the power needed just to move the batteries themselves is so high you have to use more batteries just to do that. :shock:"
That would be comically bad.

There would be no freewheel or clutch, so the fact that although the speed is slow, due to gear reduction, the smaller sprocket on the shaft is getting spun at enough rpm.

So, diesel or gasoline engine is the option now.
 
Kale44 said:
$500 for batteries is undo-able, maybe a battery price drop will occur in the near future.
you can also recycle batteries from other sources; plenty of threads on es on how to do that...but it's time consuming and sometimes frustrating.

i used to use lots of recycled batteries of various chemsitries, mostly lead-acid, when i started out. tehy wren't nearly as good as new stuff, but they had the distinct advantage of costing me only my time to evaluate and maintain them.

my cells are still recycled ones, but they're now lithium types from ev's (the eig nmc cells like jimbo-something-or-other is selling in a thread int he for sale seciton here on es, over in the uk).

Are there any examples of a small EV for long range with no assistance/pedal power? Seems undo-able without huge out costs.

sure, there are various examples here on the forum, from little kick scooters on up, including powerchairs and bicycles and trikes and pedicabs and the like; usually used for low speeds on flat terrain.

teh catch is that your purpose includes specifically hauling (heavy?) loads up hills and the like, and that is always power-expensive, vs just mvoing at low speed on teh flats. it's just the nature of physics. ;)

the same is true of rpeated acceleration of a mass from a stop--if i were to ride my trike, minus the big canopy over it that adds lots of air drag, and maybe the big box on the back that also does that, at a constant 20mph, insted of like the normal in-traffic riding where i have to stop and start up to a dozen or so times in a mile, i could get at least half again the range i do now, and quite possibly twice the range, depending on the aero changes.

riding slower at just 15mph would certainly double the range, assuming no stops/starts beyond the first.

but if i had to ride up long or steep hills i would proably only get a quarter the range i do now, at best, possibly a lot less, dependingo n actual conditions.


this is borne out by my use of crazybiek2, the previous one to this trike that i used a lot, where i would get as bad as 30-35wh/mile power usage under normal conditions, but as good as 20wh/mile or less riding where there were few to no stops for long distances.

So, diesel or gasoline engine is the option now
.
somteimes that's just the wya the cookie crumbles. :/

not every project is suited to electric for whatever reason, and it's usually cost that causes that, or space / weight /etc constraints for the batteries.
 
this one
https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/my1016lz-350w-24v-geared-motor.html

is similar in applicability to powerchair motors, but i think the powechair gearboxes are likely a lot more robust than that one probably is, just based on what ive' seen posted of similar motors to that like the currie stuff, and problems they've had with them, vs what i've personally seen inside the gearboxes of the mtoros i have here. i'm sure they're not all equal quality/design, but the ones from invacare i have here, while also made in china generally, are bigger and heavier duty, intended for a few hundred pounds of load, and working all day to carry someone around.


since your other choice is a loud engne system anyway, somethign else you might think about is a hybrid system, using the electric motor to do the work, with a small battery to buffer power, and a small generator to keep that battery charged, all mounted on the carrier.

you might be able to use a quieter engine that way, like some of the honda generators which are reliable and quiet (though they are not usually cheap; the cheapest stuff is usually bigger, heavier, and louder, as well as not lasting as long).
 
it's just the nature of physics.
Heavy loads and uphill all day is a tough go, I'll admit.

Thanks for sharing the first hand experiences, good to see how they match up with the info that's out there regarding battery use.

Researching the series hybrid design, my main thought was the recharge capacity of batteries, if the trade-off is the ability to have a smaller battery pack, say 24v @ 50ah, the recharge rate can only be at %20, roughly 10amps, is that correct? Half the 20amps needed from the motor. So the battery pack could still need to be roughly 100ah, to allow enough recharge that keeps the batteries at the same level. Although they wouldn't need to stay at %100 and could be depleted over the course of 8hrs.

This idea is more appealing than a straight cheap diesel engine reliability vs an electric motor doing the hauling. And would only require the smallest of generators to do the necessary 500W or 20amps.
 
Kale44 said:
Researching the series hybrid design, my main thought was the recharge capacity of batteries, if the trade-off is the ability to have a smaller battery pack, say 24v @ 50ah, the recharge rate can only be at %20, roughly 10amps, is that correct?
that depends entirely on the battery pack itself. some cell types can have high recharge rates, a very few even higher than their discharge rates, like lto, though most do have much lower recharge vs discharge rates, like sla.

but realistically what you would wnat is simply to have a generator & charger capable of providing the full power to run the motor, and it's actually supplying the motor with all that power--the batteyr is only there to stiffen during any power drops, smooth out power fluctuations and current spikes and electrical noise, and to let you keep going if you have to when the generator stops or runs out of gas, or whatever, to be able to finish going up a hill or back down or wherever, to get to your gas refill or your tools to fix the generator, etc.

technically a capacitor does the same job, but for it's size/cost/etc a battery is more useful as it's capacity is all within the voltage range of usability a controller needs, while a capacitors is distributed all the way to zero volts and so much of it is unusuable, requring more capacitors to do the same job.

Half the 20amps needed from the motor. So the battery pack could still need to be roughly 100ah, to allow enough recharge that keeps the batteries at the same level. Although they wouldn't need to stay at %100 and could be depleted over the course of 8hrs.
don't need to do that, because you're not discharging the batteries at all if the generator/charger is able to power the motor completely. a 30-40a capable power supply / charger powered form the generator able to supply more power than the mtoro needs isn't going to overcharge the batteries, as long as you aren't discharging them to where those high currents would actually be flowing inot the batteries. as long as the generator and charger / psu are running, no current even flows into the batteries, on average, just from the gen/psu to the motor/controller.


This idea is more appealing than a straight cheap diesel engine reliability vs an electric motor doing the hauling. And would only require the smallest of generators to do the necessary 500W or 20amps.

it's basically how many, probably most, of the diesel-electric stuff works, like trains and giant mining dump trucks, etc.

just make sure the generator and the power converter / psu / charger is actually capable of enough current to handle the worst-case motor power draw. as long as the controller is current-limiting, then the stated limit should be all it needs, within a few percent. the battery will supply any current spikes, so the psu/etc doesnt' shutdown or get damaged.


you can use things like the meanwell led psus like the elg or hlg series for the conversion of gneerator ac output to moto r controller input. such as hlg-600h-24a which is adjustable output voltage and current, runs from under 100v to over 220vac input automatically, and has 12-24v (maybe even higher by a few volts) dc output adjsutable, and current output up to 25a adjustable. (meaning that if you needed to use it to just charge the batteries you can turn the current down to the max allowed for that, but to run the motor turn it up to what's needed for that).

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HLG-600H-24A?qs=5pLaOnqdcwPABO8%2FOIJ6Og%3D%3D

there's others out there, too, probably cheaper, just like those becauase theyre sealed and potted and fanless os they can be moutned right on something and used in any weather/etc conditions. i use the 54v version as a built in charger on my sb cruiser trike.

these are probably going to be around $150-$200usd, but you don't need much battery as it's only a buffer--it just hs to be big enough to be able to supply the highest current spike the motor controller will ever ask for under any conditions, without sagging much in voltage, which is probably around 30-40A for a "20A" controller. it doesn't have to do it very long, a few seconds at most normally, though you'd have to actually test and measure this with the system as-built under conditions as-used to be certain. ;) if you're using lead-acid, sla or vrla types, i'd guess a 20ah battery would be sufficient, depending on it's actual specs. possibly even smaller like a 12ah. those are pretty cheap, so you can spend more money on the rest of the system.
 
Oh that's surprising.. makes the idea feasible, thanks for baby-stepping us through it.

Doing research on them now, are they just called PSU/smart chargers/power convertors? Capable of 500w obivously. And it connects to the batteries first, and then onto the motor?

Not much info out there on series hybrids...let alone DIY versions.
 
the led psu units i'm talking about essentially replace the charger, not the motor controller. they are technically called constant-current current-limited adjustable-voltage adjustable-current power supplies, but just lookign for led psu is an easy way to find them. laboratory adjsutable power supplies (lab psu) are similar, but are not designed to be vehicle mounted, among other issues using them this way, so i wouldt use them for this purpose. the led psus are the cheapest way to get this function.

the reason it's important is that with a typical power supply it just shuts down or blows a fuse or whatever whenever the current draw nears or exceeds it's capabilities, so the system powered by it fails. systems like mtoors tend to have huge current spikes way beyond what they normally draw even under high loads, whenever you start them from a stop or suddenly change the torque required of them, and regular psus don't liek that.

but with a cc-type psu, like the led psus, it just drops the voltage in response to a current load greater than it can output, until the voltage vs the load on it equals a current just enough to sustain that load. so led psus do this well; they're made specifcally for it; happens to make them good battery chargers too. .

some of them work better than others, but becuas of those current spikes being so high someimes for seconds or morre, the battery is important to help buffer that load. lke a capacitor but better.


there are many varietys of the led psu type, including cheaper lighter open-frame versions , but they need fans for cooling usualy, and it is tough to use them in weather that snot ideal, and vibration can eventually break parts off inside them, unlike the sealed / potted fanless ones like meanwell's hlg series.


so all that said, the order of system parts in your device would be the gas generator with ac voltage output, to the ac input of the led psu, whose dc output then connects to the battery terminals, acting as a charger for it, and power supply to the rest of the system. the battery is then in parallel between the led psu dc output and the dc input of the motor controller. the output of the motor controller connects to the motor.


how well allthis works depends on the actual loads the motor puts on the controller, and how much laod the controllerputs on the battery and led psu, and how much load that then puts on the generator, and how much capability to supply those loads each part of the system has.

the closer you specify each part to it's needs, with the less abilty to handle more than that minimum, the closer the system is to an overload, but the cheaper the system will be.

if t's right on the edge somewhere, it's possible that you could haul say, 231lbs of stuff up a particular hill on a still-wind day, but get a big wind blwoing against you or add another brick to the load and the system shuts down from overload. ;)

probably that's not really what would happen, but you get the idea.
 
note that i havent ever built such a system...but there's no technical reason that it cant' work; something like it has been done in serial hybrids of various kinds around the world probably many many times before.

there have been a few serial hybrids mostly bicycles built here on es, not sure if the actual term was ever used in all the threads though so might not be findable that way. most of them are solar bikes, using solar panels in place of a generator, and using the direct output of those panels, maybe via mppt, into the batteries, skipping the whole charger/led psu part, because the panels aren't usually quite enough to directly power the motor most of the time.


in your case, you want a generator that has significant headroom in it's output power ability, so that it can make enough power to satisfy everything downstream including the inefficiencies.

i don't know the efficiences of eahc part of the system, but you can use some basic numbers. say the motor is 75% efficient, if it's brushed. that means that to get 500w of work out of it, you have to put in 1.333x that much power. (1/.75). so that means the controller has to be able to output at least 1.333 x 500w, or 666w. if it's a 24v system, that's around 28a needed from the power source. alternately you can say that a 500w input to the motor, at 75% efficiency, turns 25% of that 500w to heat isnide the motor, and just use 500w input to it, for around 21a input.

but...the controller is also not 100% efficient, so let's call it 90%, it doesn't make a lot of heat ut it does make some, so 1/.90 on that 666w means it realy needs around 740w input to supply the full output.

the battery has an efficiency too, but we won't worry about that since it's not directly converting power in this usage. but the led psu does, so let's say it's 90% also, so to supply 740w output it needs to pull around 823w from the generator.

so you may need an 850w-1000w generator to run the system with all the inefficiencies, to get a full 500w output at the motor, assuming the motor itself can handle that much ocntinously, and assuming your loads ever actually even draw that much.

i don't know what your actual loading will be, but that is also something you can roughly calculate, or use an online calculatoor or simulator to figure out how many watts it really takes to move a load of a certain mass up a slope of a certain grade at a certain speed, under ideal conditions.
 
Thanks again Amberwolf, couldn't have made it easier. Will do some research, search for some deals and test it out.
 
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