Yesauraslip wrote: But just to be clear - you roughed up the drop out with a file
Yesauraslip wrote: Did you also rough up the torque arm as well?
Mine were too, spent quite a while using my metal file to get rid of all the corrosion on the side I epoxiedauraslip wrote: Mind were covered with some sort of corrosion or something.
Just cleaned it with alchoholauraslip wrote: Did you use a solvent?
Yep, clamped it down hardauraslip wrote: Did you apply pressure as it was curing?
You are correct I had a rocking issue, but that was due to regen. My solution was... just don't use regen. I've only tested it out on low regen a couple of times like in the video I posted, so that wouldn't be nearly enough to cause this problem. The axle nuts were always kept very tight with nord lock washers.psycholist wrote:keysersoze310, You had a problem with a very loose fitting axle, resulting in a lot of rocking play in the torque arm and loosening of the axle nuts.
Did you ever resolve this issue? If you continued to ride in this state, something is bound to fail.
The integrity of the doctorbass torque arms require that the axle nuts be tight as well as a snug fit in the (torque arm) dropouts.
What might have occured here, is that you continued to ride with this condition and the loose axle nuts, accompanied by the constant rocking, caused the system to fail at it's weakest link...The epoxy bond.
I'm not implying that you did this. Just a possible scenario
drilling a hole with a not 100% good drill can make the plate very hot. and heat is the only way to remove epoxy. and once it got hot it's like dried jewing gum. can you pry the remaining epoxy off with a screw driver easily? if it falls of in small crumbles than you know it got too hot.auraslip wrote:.. I guess it got warm and weakened and the torque from the drill popped it off. You can debate this all you want. I don't think I got it too hot.
Did you measure the ID on them? IIRC Doc measured his 5405 at something like 9.8mm, which is a bit off from the more typical near 10mm width the torque plates were intended for.neptronix wrote: Because the docbass torque arms i bought are so loose, they are basically $35 worth of scrap metal to me. I don't see how they'd work as clampers, especially when you're gluing something on, then stressing out the bond that glue ( ok, epoxy ) has made.
John in CR wrote:OR ___________ . I'll leave it up to people to fill in the obvious answer on their own.psycholist wrote: Gotta be the poor quality epoxy.
Well, Being a certified welder, you can imagine what my biased opinion would be regarding this "glue". I had my doubts just like you guys. A company I worked for was testing this glue-bonding method with aluminum. I was truly shocked when I examined the results of the stress test. The aluminum tore at the parent metal adjacent to the bond, while the actual bonded section remained intact! This was ~12 years ago and I would assume the stuff available today is probably even better.neptronix wrote: I don't believe in this glue stuff.. just does not calculate. bolt or weld it on..
I totally agree with you. I believe the epoxy method could work in a torque arm application, providing the axle nuts are tight and the cutouts for the dropouts are snug. But I can also forsee problems when using regen or when there is excessive force applied to the torque plate in the same axial plane as the bond.izeman wrote:i think epoxy is a really great thing. if used properly and if you got the right stuff.
there must be a reason why today many parts in cars are glued and not bolted or welded. glueing is superior to welding/bolting to some degrees and to some it's vice versa. it*s as simple as this.
I think this was a large part of the problem. The plate got very hot. Hot enough to touch for a second, but still obviously hot enough to make the stuff fail. I didn't even think of heat being a problem even after reading completely through the long printed manual that came with the dp420.drilling a hole with a not 100% good drill can make the plate very hot. and heat is the only way to remove epoxy. and once it got hot it's like dried jewing gum. can you pry the remaining epoxy off with a screw driver easily? if it falls of in small crumbles than you know it got too hot.
Yup! Just the fact that the applicator gun is $75 should tell that this is stuff isn't for newbs. It might actually be cheaper to have someone weld these on. It would definitely be cheaper to buy the drill bits and taps to screw these in.However, they are EXTREMELY sensitive to the materials being bonded, and prep involved. You can't glob some smoo on sanded paint and think its going to hold back 20HP. I was a bit worried when I initially noticed rather inexperienced people trying out DP420 for really critical stuff, looks like there was good reason.
This may not be his fault. They may fit fine on some axles, but not on others. In any case, it should be up to the end user to file them down so they're tight enough for you to have to tap the axle into them with a mallet. He needs to leave a bit of extra space!Because%20the%20docbass%20torque%20arms%20i%20bought%20are%20so%20loose,%20they%20are%20basically%20$35%20worth%20of%20scrap%20metal%20to%20me.
I know that now.... oh well.The drill bit was probably dead by the time you got to the bike piece. The expensive drill bits require low rpm and frequent cooling, even dipping in water a number of times for each hole extends the life tremendously. Get it hot with too much rpm and you can kill it in seconds. Typically a squeaking sound while drilling tells you the bad news.