Frustrated Newbie cant get any power

radrss32

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Joined
Dec 18, 2017
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4
Location
Monterey
Hi ES im from Monterey CA. I purchased a 48v 1000w battery made up of 1865 cells. I then purchased your typical rear wheel hub kit. The controller had bullet connecters for positive negative and my battery had XT90s so i cut the bullets n replaced them with an XT90. I hooked everything up to the wheel as it was on the bike frame. However i chose not to plug the PAS into controller not sure if that's good or bad. I was expecting the customary spark when i plugged battery into controller but got nothing. absolutely nothing. I want to mention the when reading description of kit when i got it the mentioned the it wouldn't run on anything less than 48v 1000w battery and also that in order to comply with California laws they made the battery capable of going from 36v to 48v by simply doing something to a blue wire. Im no tech guy at all but i get the impression perhaps the controller is assuming that my battery has and on off switch but it doesn't. Could really use some advise. Thank you.
 
You need a multimeter so you can check voltage and continuity. If you have one, use it to figure out what's going on. If you don't have one, get one. That step comes before getting a motor and a battery.
 
Maybe the controller has an "ignition" wire that has to be energized after the pack is connected. See controller documentation.
 
radrss32 said:
I want to mention the when reading description of kit when i got it the mentioned the it wouldn't run on anything less than 48v 1000w battery
A battery isn't rated in watts; it's rated in Watt-hours. (and/or Amp-hours). It may also be rated in Amps, as in peak and/or continous amps it can output if a load pulls it. One can calculate how many watts the battery might be able to output based on that and it's actual voltage, but they're not rated that way.

A controller or motor may commonly be rated in watts, though.

A lot of sellers throw around terms they don't understand, in incorrect ways that give the wrong impression and wrong information, so it's hard to trust anything sellers list or say without verification.



and also that in order to comply with California laws they made the battery capable of going from 36v to 48v by simply doing something to a blue wire.


I think you should post a link to the items' ad pages, because that doesn't make sense.

In order to change it's voltage, it would have to have the main output wire be moved from the top of the pack to a quarter of the way down the set of cells, and would simply then waste all that amount of battery--all those cells woudl then be dead weight, pointless to carry around, and pointless to have paid for.

So either the ad wording is wrong, the seller has no idea what they're talking about, or people that buy them for the lower voltage are being suckered into paying for stuff they will never use.

Or...the seller is using a lower-voltage pack, and a voltage converter like Wturber, in which case those using it at lower voltage are paying for a converter they will never use, and those using it at a higher voltage are paying for part of a battery they aren't actually getting.
 
did the xt90 have a green marking on it (they do an antispark version) otherwise even with power off at the controller switch one expects a spark. As previously mentioned you need a voltmeter to check the battery for output voltage before you even try to investigate further.
saying it wont run on anything less than 48v 1000w is ambiguous, reading into it it probably means you have a controller capable of delivering 20 amps or 1000w so if your battery or the BMS wont supply that it will simply shut down. without load it will probably run on any 48v or 36v battery. the low voltage cut off limit for most 48v controllers is way lower than the 42 volts a fully charged 36v pack puts out.
So again you need to see what if any power you have at the end of your xt90 plug. one question, is the pack fully charged? to ship them some batteries are discharged and it may be to low to allow the BMS to flow current, again you need a voltmeter to check
 
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