Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[j bjork]

Thanks, there seems to be some changes. But not very clear
Some "change not allowed" where changes sure have an effect.
The second value for fw in sport mode being something completely seems to be the biggest news.

[HrKlev]

Yeah. I spent a few hours trying to understand the stuff in the port settings menu, but I gave in and went back to the trial and error method to get the inputs to work as they should. If they could hire someone who understands both English and Chinese technical terms and provide better documentation it would be a huge upgrade.

[Bartosh]

I've noticed a similar weirdness on em200, but I wasn't after limiting rpms. What's your hw/sw version (page 1)?

Argh, I just wrote a reply for you Bartosh, but managed to press the report instead of the quote button Hope it does not get any consequenses

Ohh no, I'm really sorry, please un-report me (-;

I can try to help you after NYE, but this would involve uploading a fw I got = there's a chance it'll blow, ask me how I know it. PM me your ini anyway (save params opt. in the app).

If you think you have a hall-related problem, but your halls seem alright, I'd have a look at the rotor's axle nut and the hall board as well (misaligned? did you change the offset?). Anyway I suspect they did change the fw and just kept the version intact. Though, Em200 fw ver seem older.

[larsb]

This is so funny, with this pace i guess in about three years the manual will be halfway readable and contain most of the stuff you need

@hrklev: Now i think the reason to your issues are poorly implemented software changes on either Votol or QS side.

Interesting that the manual mentions the stall protection time:

B0AB8E74-2E4A-4A7E-9527-9BFA062B171B.jpeg (17.64 KiB) Viewed 494 times

I bet this stall protection is what’s causing the cutouts hard driving people get.

[j bjork]

I guess then it would cut if I give throttle, and release and right away lock the wheel?
For me it is usually when I go down a bigger decent, so I brake for some time with throttle off.

[larsb]

Do you use regen or any kind of motor braking?
(Does it make any difference if you remove it)

[HrKlev]

I can try to help you after NYE, but this would involve uploading a fw I got = there's a chance it'll blow, ask me how I know it. PM me your ini anyway (save params opt. in the app).

If you think you have a hall-related problem, but your halls seem alright, I'd have a look at the rotor's axle nut and the hall board as well (misaligned? did you change the offset?). Anyway I suspect they did change the fw and just kept the version intact. Though, Em200 fw ver seem older.

So, there is a way to actually flash the firmware "from home"? I thought you guys were talking about the parameters file (.ini). Where can I find some info abot that? (It is a year ago I read through the whole thread, so I might have read something I dont remember right now, sorry if it has been brought up before). I will PM you my .ini file. Would appreciate it f you can hav a look and se if there is anything I have missed.

[bbbaaang]

I have a problem with the qs motor, the em-150 control box. I have a problem. I have two controllers, EM-100 and EM-150, the EM-100 can be connect to the computer, but EM-150 cannot be connected. But after attaching the EM-100's cable, em-150 can connect. but i use cable set EM-150 ,it can not. When using the cable of EM-100 to connect the em-150 program screen, it shows spec of EM-100. How to fix? I have Checked wiring

[larsb]

It doesn’t matter if program shows em-100 or em-150
If any cable works then just use that for programming. The other one is probably broken.

[HrKlev]

Ask QS for a fresh reprogramming file

So, I got response from QS the other day! A new file with weird values on page 2 (except from the max Amp settings, that was 150A). They confirmed that the FW settings are correct, and i should not touch them. They did not say why they differ completely from what the manual says they should be. They also said max 150A for boost current, but raised it to 180A when I asked them why manual states 250A and their website says 220A. Since I dont want 6000rmp into the gearbox, I used top speed limiter at 70% to limit the speed. However, this also seems to lower max Amp with the same amount, both on boost and busbar current on page 1. Right now my motor seems to run as it should on the settings I have posted in the screenshot, but I dont have any speed limiter in boost, so it spins to 6000 rpm. I have planned to put a Cycle Analyst on this vehicle anyway, so I think I will just wire up boost mode always on and limit speed and throttle curve with that.

I kind of want to try 314A and 70% speed limiter and see if I can get 220A current draw and speed limiter acitvated, but I am a little worried if this will blow or not. It is apparently a different version than my other one year old EM150sp as it will not run very well on the settings I use on that.

[j bjork]

You can use hdc to limit rpm instead, that is how it worked for me at least.
You already have it set to 6000, so I guess you get 6000rpm?

Interesting that they set the flux-wekening to 4000, 6000 and 10000. I think the manual says max 3000.
When you have it up and running I think you should try to raise the flux-wekening compensation and see what happens, especially at low rpm.

What do you mean with boost current, and what do you want to set to 314A?, that is an uneven number.
I have set battery amps to 400, but I only get about 350A

[HrKlev]

You can use hdc to limit rpm instead, that is how it worked for me at least.
You already have it set to 6000, so I guess you get 6000rpm?

Interesting that they set the flux-wekening to 4000, 6000 and 10000. I think the manual says max 3000.
When you have it up and running I think you should try to raise the flux-wekening compensation and see what happens, especially at low rpm.

What do you mean with boost current, and what do you want to set to 314A?, that is an uneven number.
I have set battery amps to 400, but I only get about 350A

Didnt know I could use HDC for that, will try tomorrow, thanks!

Yes, the numbers are weird. And if I use 0 flux weakening like I do on my other setup the motor wont start from standstil. Twice I tried to ask them why the manual states max 3000, but they tell me to use these numbers. But all I get is they are the correct ones, and not to touch them. They seem to work, so I guess I will just have to settle with them. I havent quite decided if I should just bite the bullet and get a nucular... I did try to play with flux compensation, but I could not feel much of a difference. I will check a little more when I get the Cycle Analyst up and running and some more grip outside (snow and ice now) so it is easier to watch current draw.

The 314 number was just to get some top speed limiter without torque reduction. The number I put in there seems to limit both amp and speed, so 70% of 314 is 220ish But I will leave the top speed limiter alone and try out HDC tomorrow.

Interesting that the controller seems to take that much Amps as you are using. I have the batteries for it, but not sure hiw much the gearbox takes. Its an 1993 Polaris diesel, dont think that old Yanmar motor put put a lot except from smoke and noise

[brett@huckcycles.com]

Hello everyone, I'm still having issues with the votol EM-150 not programming. I've tried the older program, and the new program released in 2020. All the parameters match the same settings I have on a another bike that works perfectly. I've used a different computer, I've used a different EM-150 controller and still doesn't seem to save. It will say "Write Successful," but when I reconnect the bike it goes back to the old settings. Everything is wired fine and works on the bike. It just wont move or save the settings.

Thanks a Bunch!!!!

[pica2079]

Hello please photo of wiring cable USB to program votol em150,?
Thanks

[brett@huckcycles.com]

Hello. Sorry about the pictures. I tried to take them as clean as possible without being confusing and I can answer any questions regarding the wiring. On the EM-150 controllers I can’t program but the EM-100 will only program some things. For instance, on the EM-100 I’m working on right now, it will save every parameter except for a few. They are the over voltage and bud at amperage on one 1. Sport mode amperage and hige flux. For the hige flux it will save anything over 3500. Then the calibration settings won’t save as well. I wanted to know if there was a way to reset the controller or if anyone has any ideas as to what’s going on. Before I programmed the bike it worked perfectly fine. As soon as I programmed it , it stopped. So I went to put the parameters back to the stock settings, but wouldn’t save the parameters that I listed above.

[j bjork]

I wonder if it can be an issue with compatibility with your programming cables?

You dont have the ones that supplied with the controllers?
I dont know much about these things, but I think it is discussed early in this thread.

[pica2079]

I've been looking for it for several days and I can't find how to activate Sport mode or regeneration. I know it is with a switch but that switch do I have to connect pin 15 with 0 volt or with 5V?

Thanks

[brett@huckcycles.com]

Yea the USB cable is fine, I've used these for about a year now without any issues. I have also used the USB that came with the controller. The only reason why the bike wont physically move is because the over voltage is set too low for my batteries. From the factory the controllers I got have a preloaded parameters, where the over voltage is at 91 volts. So if I don't program the bike it works fine. I wanted to set it to 80-85, but will only save it to the max which is 80. Even though when I first got it, it was set at 91 volts. That being said when I fully charge a 72 volt battery it wont move the bike because its .1-.2 volts over. Which I get, its as easy as don't fully charge your batteries, but I have never had this problem and I've built many of these bikes.

[j bjork]

I've been looking for it for several days and I can't find how to activate Sport mode or regeneration. I know it is with a switch but that switch do I have to connect pin 15 with 0 volt or with 5V?

Thanks

I dont know without looking in the diagrams witch pins it is, but you ground to activate sport mode.
Regeneration depends if you set it to low or high brake. To activate low brake you ground the low brake pin. To activate high brake you connect the high brake pin to 12v.

It usually seems to be set up for high brake, but you can change that in the I/O settings. It is all said before in this thread. In my settings you can see what I changed to get regen on low brake, I have posted them at least once in the last few pages.

[pica2079]

Thank you very very much!!!
Please last question low brake and high brake??? Which difference???

[j bjork]

The difference is that you acticate low brake with ground and high with 12v..

[pica2079]

Thank you very much!!!!
I can not connect to my votol em-150. I believe because is can bus model. Someone have software for can bus model? Thanks
Or cable???

[caza]

Am I correct in my reading that these controllers only have on/off regen and there is no way to throttle the regen?

[j bjork]

Am I correct in my reading that these controllers only have on/off regen and there is no way to throttle the regen?

Yes, you are correct.
You can have some regen when you release the throttle also though.
So you can have a weaker regen when you release the throttle, and a harder one on a button or when you use the normal brakes or something.

[j bjork]

Here is a link to manuals and wiring diagrams:
http://www.siaecosys.com/list/?classid=102