Upgrade ebike build

HI, I'm Brian, I'm new and don't have a clue so, please pardon my ignorance. I built my first bike a month ago bought a cheap 48v 1000w kit on ebay (I know) and built a 52v 40a 14s2p (25r's) battery. My bms went out so, of course I'm looking to get more power. Typical I know. So this is what I've picked out to do that, for only an additional 150.00. i would like an opinion from experienced ebikers about this combination, as this is pretty much an overload of information... guess if you don't mind. and any suggestions as to what might be a better set up, name brand, part, seller are more than welcome.

So the state of Oklahoma has a problem with my driving and I'm tired of trying to prove them wrong so I'll be riding this everyday to and fro work (4 miles rd. Trip) and any bars in between on relatively flat streets so I need to keep up with traffic a little better. (35-40mph+)

First, upgrade my battery to 16s2p 60v 40a
67.2 max charge
59.2 nom.
Add 4 Samsung 25r to pack (20 bucks)

New controller from EM3EV
12 fet IRFB4110 40 amp infenion 36v-72v, sensored ,programable w/hall sensors. (no clue as to what motor I have other than 5.31in Dia. Sold by Sixave?) Not sure how tell if I have hall sensors or if it is "sensored" or not (100 bucks)

New "ANN" 60v 40a 16s bms/pcm/pcb. (29 bucks)
40a cont. 42 max
67.2v charge volt
Balance current 45a

I'm concerned that make my battery is a little small. Make it 3p, or 4p?
Possibly selling bike at end of month to friend so new rear hub motor suggestions are welcome also.

Thanks in advance for your expertise and time

Not worth the time I guess. That's what I needed to know I guess
Thanks anyway

I'd say the battery is a bit small for 40A. It'll work but you can expect a very short life from it if you're actually pulling 40A. 3P would be much better but 4P would probably be worthwhile.

Basically I'm saying a 4P battery will last more than twice as long as your 2P battery, not to mention it will perform better at 40A.

Running cells near their current limit will result in voltage sag, so at 40A your controller is probably seeing a lower voltage than you think, and that's going to affect your top speed. A 14S4P battery will likely give you a similar top speed as a 16S2P one, but without beating the poor battery up. It might even be faster.

14S also has the advantage of more common chargers, BMSs, etc. You seem to already have the 14S charger, so you could save on buying a new one of those.

As for the motor, it's probably ok at that power level, heat is the enemy. As long as you're not lugging it at low speed up hills, it probably won't melt. Something to keep an eye on when you finish your build and start riding it. If it's too hot to touch, it's too hot is a general rule.

To see if it's sensored or not, count the wires coming out of the axle. 3 big ones are for phase current, and they'll be an additional 5 small ones for hall sensors if they are installed. There might be more small wires for temperature sensor and such.

There are measures you can take to improve cooling on hub motors, ferro fluid inside and heat sinks outside are the most common. There's plenty of information on here regarding both solutions, if you find yourself needing them.

Also, you need to be patient when awaiting replies on here. It's not a giant community, most of us have day jobs, families, hobbies, etc. I don't always have time to check for new posts during the day, and even less likely to have time to immediately reply, so my (and I'm sure others) replies tend to come in batches, every 2 or 3 days.

dustNbone said:

Basically I'm saying a 4P battery will last more than twice as long as your 2P battery, not to mention it will perform better at 40A.

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I would agree there. Go with the largest, best performing battery you can afford.

I agree with the others, go for P before S in your battery. If your budget is tight skip the bms and just monitor manually. With more P they should not go out of balance very often. Skip the new controller too and just put a glop of solder on your shunt for more amps. Search for "shunt mod" on forum. Those motors can do 2 kilowatts unless you stall it out pulling two kids in a trailer up an embankment, don't ask how I know that.

Did you or your kids inhale the magic smoke?
:lol:

devo1223 said:

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devo1223 said:

I agree with the others, go for P before S in your battery. If your budget is tight skip the bms and just monitor manually. With more P they should not go out of balance very often. Skip the new controller too and just put a glop of solder on your shunt for more amps. Search for "shunt mod" on forum. Those motors can do 2 kilowatts unless you stall it out pulling two kids in a trailer up an embankment, don't ask how I know that.

Click to expand...

I also manually monitor my charging but for safety I would add a one hour spring wound time switch in the cord of your charger. I'm sure it has saved me more than once and after I got used to how much time to set on the timer, I have learned to set the time for about an 80% charge which can extend the battery life.

I installed it in a waterproof aluminum box inline the cord of my automatic 120vac charger. But, you have to be careful that time switch assembly cannot tip over. If the timer knob can touch the ground, the knob sometimes can't turn and then the charger will proceed to its maximum charge.

I also occasionally remove my lipo packs and balance charge them on my i-charger but my Turnigy lipo packs have been very good at staying at a balanced voltage.

Just some ideas here.

So I'm not clear as to how to charge my battery pack w/o a bms. I think i understand a balance charger setup but, looks like I'll have break up my battery into smaller series connections due to there are no 14s or more balance chargers available to buy or the few that exist are not reliable and not recommended and too high priced to be feasible?

So I hear of "bulk" charging. But can't seem to find any info as to how this exactly works?, type of charger? connect to battery?, charge time? Etc..
I'm sure it's out there I just dont know where or how to look but, if it's just hooking a type of charger to first and last poles on the pack? Wich is what I've kinda gathered, that's what got me in this mess. Bypassing my bms and hook charger up direct. My batts. went crazy and I had voltages all over the place with brand new 25r's. I did this with a vruzend 52v charger that I think is only for packs with bms's??

What I would like to do if posible is, do bulk charging and manually check voltages and.. I Guess? Balance charge every so often or as needed?

To me it seems that you have blindly trust a bms is doing what supposed to do and if it doesn't like something your just shut down wherever you are and don't know why and no way to quick fix it. sooo...start the peddlin!
Just doesn't seem logical. Well that's my 3 month experience take on that. So any education and recomendations will be of great help, consideration appreciation.

Sorry if this sounds stupid but that the only way i know how to learn this, is to ask the stupid stuff questions so all that's left are the correct questions then the answers start to come easy. I hope.