E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Villain said:

Wow, they're everywhere!
Does anybody recognize this stealth rider, out for a lunch time ride in Sydney?

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Obviously a street rider too.

A turn not to miss!!

A little of the local trail action here SoCal. more to come.

I'd definitely prefer to be riding that trail in SoCal over a lunchtime ride in Sydney.

remf said:

I'd definitely prefer to be riding that trail in SoCal over a lunchtime ride in Sydney.

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+1, that looks like a really neat place to rip on. Maybe I will take a trip and check it out, like next year.

remf said:

I'd definitely prefer to be riding that trail in SoCal over a lunchtime ride in Sydney.

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That looks like a cool trail, but I reckon you might not be trying hard enough remf
Here's a shot I took on a rather long detour to work last friday (dress shirt and pants in my backpack!)

Gah you're all making me jealous :lol:

Finally got my wheels from roadrash (they look awesome) and now I'm just waiting on the wheel place to change over my hub to the new rim.

It'll probably get done just in time for the cyclone to turn our weather to crap.

Have the front wheel on and god damn do moto rims look amazing on the bomber. Might make me get noticed by pc plod a bit more though :?

Hyena said:

I reckon you might not be trying hard enough remf

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You're right Jay I'm not trying hard enough...but that's because it involves considerable effort to get to any desirable trail from here and street-riding just isn't particularly desirable to me. Definitely have to put the bike on the back of the car to get to semi-decent singletrack and even then you need to go quite a distance up or down the coast to find anything approaching that trail in SoCal. Having said that, in your vids, it looks like the best trails around Sydney are in your backyard.

No way! Best trail's in Sydney are in the Nth/Nth-west!!!


So, After 2 days of riding I have a couple of small niggles..

Biggest of being the Magura MT2's. They just aren't good enough? I'm sure they would be fantastic on a downhill bike or something.. But not on a 80km/h bike.
So, I have a few option's. I can get some MTS's for $100AUD. OR I can get some MT7's for $430AUD.

First question, Are the MTS's noticeably better than the MT2's? I know Magura say's they are in between the MT4's and MT6's (because they were custom's for specialized), but is that true?
Second, Are the MT7's worth the $330 more than the MTS's?


The second issue I am having is, when I stop the bike and park it, sometimes the gear's cease and don't turn until I put the key back in and turn it on and move a little? Is this normal??

Maybe try some better pads change fluid first.
Explane more about this gear problem, are u saying the twist shift doesn't turn? Putting key in wont affect gears

I can lock my brakes up on cement streets. I would think locking the brakes on dirt would be very easy.

Does anyone know any websites replacement cranks for the vboxx can be purchased? Have been searching for a while without any luck and stealth haven't responded to my email.

remf said:

in your vids, it looks like the best trails around Sydney are in your backyard.

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Quite literally, my house backs onto the royal national park and that was a big selling point for me when I bought the place.
We should organise another Sydney meet up some time and I can show you around my local haunts Numbers have grown significantly since the last group ride I organised a few years back

00Tj said:

Are the MTS's noticeably better than the MT2's? I know Magura say's they are in between the MT4's and MT6's (because they were custom's for specialized), but is that true?

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I've not used the MTS's - I've ridden the stock MT2s and on my other bikes I've been using the new MT5's. These are a quad piston brake essentially the same as the MT7's performance wise but minus a few features which I consider trivialities (carbon levers etc). For around half the price of the MT7s the MT5s are a clear winner in my mind. They have strong braking, good modulation and in general get my tick of approval. The other alternatives I'd look at are the shimano zee (again like the mt5 vs mt7 these are very similar to the saints but lacking a few features in trade for a decent price reduction)

00Tj said:

No way! Best trail's in Sydney are in the Nth/Nth-west!!!


So, After 2 days of riding I have a couple of small niggles..

Biggest of being the Magura MT2's. They just aren't good enough? I'm sure they would be fantastic on a downhill bike or something.. But not on a 80km/h bike.
So, I have a few option's. I can get some MTS's for $100AUD. OR I can get some MT7's for $430AUD.

First question, Are the MTS's noticeably better than the MT2's? I know Magura say's they are in between the MT4's and MT6's (because they were custom's for specialized), but is that true?
Second, Are the MT7's worth the $330 more than the MTS's?


The second issue I am having is, when I stop the bike and park it, sometimes the gear's cease and don't turn until I put the key back in and turn it on and move a little? Is this normal??

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I completely agree about the mt brakes. I have the mt4's they are not very good. I have used an alternate bleed procedure to get less lever travel before engagement which works. (I've posted about it here before). I go through pads like water and w/o the alt bleed procedure the lever travel is unacceptable. I can't speak about the quad piston mt series they may be better. Try the bleed procedure it should help.

updated bleed procedure for MT brakes:

And finally the Magura MT series and fixing the tragically long lever travel before engagement. This is a known problem with the Maguras. The pistons stick and duing bleeding the pistons retract which makes the lever travel longer before engagement.

here is a few links which illustrate the problem. Not sure who he is but he owns a bomber.
http://www.fareinc.com/65/MT8/

here is the new bleed procedure:
http://www.support-english.magura.com/i ... =5053&st=0

I adjusted this bleed procedure.
1 After fully bleeding the brakes I inserted and closed the top bleed screw while pushing on the plunger for the bottom syringe so no air would be introduced into the system.
2 The transport tool is a touch to thick. You can sand it down allowing the pistons to be a bit closer to each other.
3 Push more fluid into the system via the bottom syringe. This step reduces the lever travel. Make sure there is no pad drag on the rotor. If so loosen the top screw and spread open the pistons a bit. Make sure to not introduce any air into the system.
4 lift the caliper over the height of the lever, remove the syringe and put in the screw.
This will greatly reduce lever travel. Still not 1 finger but better.

I actually ended up getting offered the mtS's for next to nothing
so I am going to try them for a bit and see how they go.

I worked out the gearbox issue.. I am pretty sure it was not working
because the pedals had been moved into a ready position and we're
putting a small amount of pressure on the box.
I tried back peddling a quarter rotation before trying to change gears
and it's working fine.

So, on my way to the bike shop today I got a rear flat.
I was only about 1km away so it wasn't so bad.
When I got there I just bought a new patch kit and took the tyre off
(with an insane amount of difficulty!) and looked for the hole.
I couldn't find it?
So I pumped it up a bit and eventually found it....
On the rim side of the tube! It seems that the rim tape had moved slightly
and pinched it? Maybe.

I also ordered some crazy bobs last night to use until my hookworms turn
up in a few weeks from overseas.
My question is, should I go tubeless and use slime? If I just had a regular tube
and slime today it wouldn't have done a thing because the puncture was on
the wrong side of the tube.
I have never used crazy bobs before but have been told they don't offer much
protection for the tube.
Or, second option is use a tube, fill with slime and put puncture proof tape
on both the tyre side and the rim side?

On my last bike, the slime I used completely stopped flats.
I would still get punctures at least once a week but they would fill up with slime
in seconds and I'd just keep riding.

Oh so many decisions!!!

Also, I have told you guys about my local bike shops giving me the stink
eye when I told them I had an electric bike..
Today was a different story!
When the first guy came out to have a look he was seriously impressed!
He spent 25 minutes looking over it and asked 100 questions..

Thanks stealth!!
Your product has once again made me welcome in my LBS's!

Hi folks,
It's been a while since I've posted though I rarely go more than a few days without checking out the conversation. It has and continues to be invaluable for me to make my bike reliable.
Production numbers continue to grow and I am waiting for the day I come across another owner locally. I just hope all who own a stealth respect the importance of riding stealth and staying under the radar.
I would certainly like to ride some other trails around Sydney with other owners.
Cheers

Stealth bombers seem to be coming out with MT5's standard as of late December last year? At least mine did.

I don't seem to have a stealth branded headlight though, thought that was a bit odd.

boars said:

Stealth bombers seem to be coming out with MT5's standard as of late December last year? At least mine did.

I don't seem to have a stealth branded headlight though, thought that was a bit odd.

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Hi boars, All Stealth bikes are now supplied with Magura MT5's brakes as standard as from the end of 2014 onwards with the MT7 as the brake upgrade also Stealth noted that they were not happy with the logo on the factory headlight assembly and are now supplied with the manufacturers logo instead.
We made inquiries re this logo and have confirmed this with Stealth.

Ah thanks mate, that answers that.

Was wondering if demand was just outstripping supply or some such.

Regarding MT2 brakes:

1. They are certainly powerful enough for 74Kg me on a Fighter on dirt at sub-50km/h speeds. But good pad and rotor condition is crucial.
2. Resurfacing pads using some abrasive gauze sheet works very well, to remove glazing or contamination, or simply to get the pad surface flat again.
3. The MT2 lever has very little adjustment of bite-point, and none when the fluid is not bleed or primed properly. Instead of tedious bleeding, you can add a cup spacer to the end of the compression ball, to push the bite-point out further. After about 50 off-road rides, this solution still works well for me, but if the spacer cup is plastic then it should be periodically inspected for safety reasons.
4. I find the sintered metal pads on eBay for USD6 a pair from China, work very well. I'm on my 4th set of pads.

Emmett said:

Regarding MT2 brakes:

1. They are certainly powerful enough for 74Kg me on a Fighter on dirt at sub-50km/h speeds. But good pad and rotor condition is crucial.
2. Resurfacing pads using some abrasive gauze sheet works very well, to remove glazing or contamination, or simply to get the pad surface flat again.
3. The MT2 lever has very little adjustment of bite-point, and none when the fluid is not bleed or primed properly. Instead of tedious bleeding, you can add a cup spacer to the end of the compression ball, to push the bite-point out further. After about 50 off-road rides, this solution still works well for me, but if the spacer cup is plastic then it should be periodically inspected for safety reasons.
4. I find the sintered metal pads on eBay for USD6 a pair from China, work very well. I'm on my 4th set of pads.

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I'm using the sintered metal pads too, and they work well.

00Tj said:

The second issue I am having is, when I stop the bike and park it, sometimes the gear's cease and don't turn until I put the key back in and turn it on and move a little? Is this normal??

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I'm thinking you may need to adjust the shift cables. Make sure both of them have a little play.

Emmett said:

Regarding MT2 brakes:

1. They are certainly powerful enough for 74Kg me on a Fighter on dirt at sub-50km/h speeds. But good pad and rotor condition is crucial.
2. Resurfacing pads using some abrasive gauze sheet works very well, to remove glazing or contamination, or simply to get the pad surface flat again.
3. The MT2 lever has very little adjustment of bite-point, and none when the fluid is not bleed or primed properly. Instead of tedious bleeding, you can add a cup spacer to the end of the compression ball, to push the bite-point out further. After about 50 off-road rides, this solution still works well for me, but if the spacer cup is plastic then it should be periodically inspected for safety reasons.
4. I find the sintered metal pads on eBay for USD6 a pair from China, work very well. I'm on my 4th set of pads.

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Same here Emmett, I weight about 110kg and my Fighter is running custom battery, along with a rear moto tire and rim, so my bike is weighing right around 40-41kg so figure bike and rider at a 150kg, not including my camel back with tools and water. The brakes on the hilly rock shit I ride are really good, I have only experienced a little heat fade on the front, and that was on some major steep descents with lots of speed and hard fast braking. Still, the MT5 will be a better option.

woot81 said:

Does anyone know any websites replacement cranks for the vboxx can be purchased? Have been searching for a while without any luck and stealth haven't responded to my email.

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Hi woot81
We can supply the Suntour crank set for the Vboxx, just shoot us a PM or email at quigleyms@internode.on.net
http://www.quigleymotorsport.com

Qms
Hows the carbon sump guard coming on? Are u still going to make one?
Jim