New Bafang Crank-Drives

The display will be fine except the battery level will always show full or close to full. Standard cutout for the drive is 41v. It can be programmed up to 43v however 44v cut is ideal for 14s. If Paul programmed it to the max 43v, a battery level of half on the display is about as low as you want to go.

I run 14s also which is one of the reasons I did the Cycle Analyst conversion.
 
Kepler said:
The display will be fine except the battery level will always show full or close to full. Standard cutout for the drive is 41v. It can be programmed up to 43v however 44v cut is ideal for 14s. If Paul programmed it to the max 43v, a battery level of half on the display is about as low as you want to go.

I run 14s also which is one of the reasons I did the Cycle Analyst conversion.
Hmmm That's bad news. No way to see battery level on the display then. I think Paul has LVC set at 41V.
I have the cheap blue Watt meter that I could mount inside the triangle bag and on breaks I can check the battery level/voltage/Wh usage.
 
Kepler said:
That would be better then nothing but ideally you want to see your battery volts under load. Can you put the Watt meter where you can see it while riding?
Is it acceptable, no strain on the system, to run enough wiring to accomplish this? Not needed on my 36v system but a 48 is in the pipe for a pal.
 
Kepler said:
That would be better then nothing but ideally you want to see your battery volts under load. Can you put the Watt meter where you can see it while riding?
Possible yes, but more hassle and cables and stuff. Haven't really thought out the exact wiring/setup I want to be using.
I might want to hook up a USB port as well to power my phone/gps while riding.
 
Has anyone managed to find a source for straight, 155mm cranks for the BBS02? (Besides the old knees playing up, I need more clearance in my Alleweder velomobile). Left hand crank arms are easy enough to find it's just the right crank without a spider that is proving to be elusive.
 
Reflector said:
Has anyone managed to find a source for straight, 155mm cranks for the BBS02? (Besides the old knees playing up, I need more clearance in my Alleweder velomobile). Left hand crank arms are easy enough to find it's just the right crank without a spider that is proving to be elusive.
Easy Just Click Here
 
Hahahah. What tomasj said. :D
 
tomjasz said:
Reflector said:
Has anyone managed to find a source for straight, 155mm cranks for the BBS02? (Besides the old knees playing up, I need more clearance in my Alleweder velomobile). Left hand crank arms are easy enough to find it's just the right crank without a spider that is proving to be elusive.
Easy Just Click Here

Hey, I got some of those Schlumpf cranks. Can confirm they fit okay...
 
Thanks to an unusually mild winter, my Bafang miles have slowly kept accumulating the last few months. I just hit 1000 miles! In just under 6 months. Mostly trail riding. A lot of big climbs, including a couple 5,000 foot climbs. I hit it hard when I first got it, and didn't baby it, because I just wanted to see what it was capable of. And then just kept riding it hard. I guess I'm one of the lucky ones who has never had a problem. Original controller, original everything (except I switched it from one bike to another for the last 800 miles.) I did switch to a smaller chain ring at one point, but I don't remember exactly when. I put in an internal temperature gauge and since put on the smaller chain ring, I rarely get above 110 degrees.

I've learned a lot from the great gang here on ES. Thanks! I had never even heard of this forum until hie2kolob introduced me to both ES and the Bafang BBS02. It's been a fun 6 months.

 
eMax said:
These are the Torker 170mm cranks on my bike. The pedal threading is much better, and they are triple forged so stronger. Also do not work themselves loose like stock cranks.

They looked pretty good in the pics I found, and for the price, they certainly seem good. The silvers are cheaper, but I like the black, and the silvers were out of stock anyway. A pair from those guys, WITH the horrendously expensive US shipping was cheaper than buying one set here locally - I could only find "fancy" brands here.

Because I have the BBS driving a Nuvinci Dev Kit, in a 17" Moped rim, the back of my bike is low, and the bottom bracket has dropped 2"/ 50mm.
 
eMax said:
Reflector said:
Has anyone managed to find a source for straight, 155mm cranks for the BBS02? (Besides the old knees playing up, I need more clearance in my Alleweder velomobile). Left hand crank arms are easy enough to find it's just the right crank without a spider that is proving to be elusive.

Here you go mate. I have the 170mm versions they are much better than stock.

http://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...cycle-crank-arms-6-inch-0-degree-offset-black

Pity they are out of stock. Anyone know of another source or similar arms?

Thanks
Andrew
 
I just received my BBS02 kit from em3ev.com last night, and haven't spent much time with it but I need to quickly sort the handlebar issues, as it appears I need to order some new ones, and perhaps brake levers.

I have a standard drop roadbike handlebar today (wide), 25.4mm clamp and 23.8mm grip I believe, although the calipers measured 24.2mm near the end this morning.

The brake levers that come with the BBS02 kit measure an opening of only 22.5mm, and are metal so there is not much they can open. So, I suppose that they were designed for a 22.2mm grip area?

However, it appears that the C965 computer mounts, with converter piece, fit perfectly on my handlebars. So, that was a bit odd.

What size are the throttles, at say www.empoweredcycles.com or em3ev designed for?

Bascially, what are the workable diameters for:
- C965
- Bafang default brake levers
- Bafang thumb throttles
- Bafang twist throttles

I've seen some sweet setups here with this kit (Kepler's for instance), and am very impressed. Some opinions or details on handlebars, brake levers, and throttle preferences would be greatly appreciated. I've searched around (very new here) and don't see specifics in these areas. I'm just getting started and excited to get stuff mounted!

Thanks,
Garrick
 
You can use BBS0x brake sensors with your existing brake levers. I have a set, but you really only need one.

I wish I had known about them before I used the kit brake levers. You can get them from EM3ev for $13.00 each.


"This ebrake sensor is a reed switch with magnet, it is plug and play compatible with the Bafang BBS02 Kit. When the magnet is near to the sensor, the ebrake is inactive (motor runs). When the magnet is moved away from the sensor, the ebrake activates (motor power is cut). The device can be easily fixed to the underside of either hydraulic brake levers, or mechanical brake levers, using the included double sided tape, the unit is very compact. The Magnet is fixed to the moving brake lever and the sensor appropriately located on the stationary, mounting bracket.

Note: This version of the Ebrake Sensor is sold plug and play for the Bafang BBS01/02 kit (latest version, using 3 pin Higo plug with Yellow insert). Cable length is ~0.2m. The sensor is sold as a single unit, not a pair."


http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=67701
 

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tomjasz said:
You can use BBS0x brake sensors with your existing brake levers. I have a set, but you really only need one.

Thanks!

I'd seen these before I got my motor, but figured I'd evaluate the Bafang levers with builtin switches first.

It appears there are (2) different brake sensors that work inline with our brakes. There is the model you show from EM3ev and then there is the HWBS Ebrake Sensor that appears to be a hall effect sensor, not a reed switch.

HWBS:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=195

Suggested sensor:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=196

Anyone have any opinions on the pros/cons of each? From the pictures and description, the one Tom recommended seems cleaner and easier. Also less bulky. Thanks again.

Garrick
 
The HWBS sensors from em3ev are bulky, I have two, but I don't use them atm. I have a couple of smaller all black ones on my bike now. The other kind is useful for hydraulic brakes which can't be sensed at the cable, or for cabled brakes if you like. It's really easy to make them yourself, and make them super small. You just need a reed switch and a magnet.
 
Unfortunately there is so little movement in a hydraulic brake lever that it is difficult for proper placement of the magnet with a reed or a hall effect sensor. For that reason I have been using small micro switches. All you need is a small enough switch that is normally open, eliminate the red 5 volt conductor coming from the harness and solder the other two wires.

IMG_2694c.jpgIMG_2691c.jpg
 
Finally got warm enough for a battery in Minnesnowta to get to full potential and the 52T chainwheel added. With the 11T cassette and 52T chainwheel unloaded speed went up to 29mph/46.6kph. Nice 65F/18C. 220lb rider loaded speed now an honest 23mph/37kph. This is on a BBS01 36V! I are a happy camper. 52t was an inexpensive upgrade as well as an easy job to swap out. It's good to live on the flats!
 
opperpanter said:
Kepler said:
That would be better then nothing but ideally you want to see your battery volts under load. Can you put the Watt meter where you can see it while riding?
Possible yes, but more hassle and cables and stuff. Haven't really thought out the exact wiring/setup I want to be using.
I might want to hook up a USB port as well to power my phone/gps while riding.
I am working on connecting the "blue" Watt meter to the kit, mainly to monitor Wh usage during my rides.

I have a kit from em3ev, with the 24Ah triangle battery kit. This kit has pretty decent/thick wries, all felling and looking very well made/ sturdy, anderson connectors, precharge circuit, and some golden bullet connectors.
This in contrast to the wires from the "blue" watt meter, these feel very light and maybe a little thin.
Is it OK to just put this watt meter in series between battery and controller? Somehow it looks/feels like I am degrading the connection between the battery and controller....
 
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