DownGrading a controller...

I've realized, a bit late ( 48v 1000w hub, kit on order) that the proper battery (48v battery 20ah) is a little out of my reach right now...($450 shipped to my door, no additional fee's).

But I read a tip on here, that I could possibly downgrade my controller to a 20a one start with, and run a more attainable 48v /12 or 15ah battery.

Saving my other controller for a future upgrade. Any serious trade off's to doing this?

there may be way to limit the kit controller, with your wrist if no other way.
try it out with the batt. you can afford. New riders tend to over estimate how much range they will need on a daily basis.

You could use a Cycle Analyst V2 or V3 or other current limiting device.

Likely your controller has more than one shunt inside. The shunts can be modified for more amps by adding a blob of solder.

Or, clipping one of multiple shunts would do the opposite. Cut it very close to the board, so that you could possibly solder it back if you want a more powerful bike again later.

If you have a 30 amps controller with 3 shunts, cutting one will make it a 20 amps.

But just buying a cheap 20 amps controller is not a bad option either. Should be possible to get one pretty cheap. The downside is the fun of finding the right wire combination to run it. If you find one with self learning capability, then it's easy. Usually not there on the very cheapest ebay controllers, but can be worth the cost.

Thanks people.

30A 3 shunt controller?
cut 2 shunts but reconnect both to switches (better - desolder one end of shunt and add switch in series)

Allows economy 10A
normal 20A and
turbo 30A
modes

Approximation of the HaiBike Drive
10A normal (350w) and 20A turbo (750w) mode


Demonstrates USA "legal" 20mph "motor only" w/assist till 30mph+
20A mode engaged via PAS sensor = "legal" 750w motor and 30mph with modest pedal assist

See - Currie Revolution