Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

madin88 said:

striker54 said:

I'm running 22s Lipo. Ok, I didn't think in that. Maybe the diference is in the voltage, but i can assure that there is a big diference in performance between running with the autodetect settings and after doing the manual tunning. I will post the settings when I get at home, but I think that the settings from one motor aren't good for other motor even when they are same model, because there will be always small differences in the production of the motors.

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LiPo has flatter discharge curve and higher nominal voltage and this will make a noticeable difference in speed.
i also do not use all autodetect settings. indtiming and anglecorr i let as is is, but PWR timting i changed..
waiting for your post

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yes autosettings are not allways the best
indtiming and anglecorr - i quiet okay - but i try always one value down/up an check the current on the display.
Its good to check the values on an "load".

As i told allready, it would be good to have an list from us adaptto users, with the used / programmed adaptto settings - so it would be much easier to compare our values together - and find the right values...

Its hard because everybody has to try his own values to find out the right settings...

9lives said:

Skwardog, this is my settings for the 4065 which shouldn't be too far off. I too had issues with auto detect in terms of rough running (it had something like 30 degrees to start with) until adjusted but no hall issues once all the wires/plug were sorted. If you are having hall issues you may have issues with you plug or wiring.

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Hey 9lives MUCH appreciated! This confirms that I'm not far off as my settings are very close to what you show and the main problem is not the settings. I'm hoping it's not the Adaptto controller. Although the stock Crystalyte 7240 controller with the 4080 motor performs WAY better than the Mini-E right now, I'm hoping once I get the hall sensor issues worked out, the Mini's performance will improve or I'll have to bin it. I think the Mini doesn't like running sensorless and the 7240 is more capable at it.....I have numerous issues with this hi-priced motor and believe it never ran sensored, even with the Clyte controller?! But before I go off on the company that sold me this motor, I want to make sure I'm not just an idiot and recheck my work, new 10 gauge phase wires to the axle, hall wiring and thermistor hook-up. I didn't open the motor because it's basically still brand new..... The main reason I paid sooo much for the motor was because all the mods to cure the common issues were done without me spending days figuring out how to do them!?
One thing I hope someone here can confirm is if my hall wiring is correct?
According to the Adaptto manual: Yellow= Sensor Output 1, Green= Sensor Output 2 and Blue= Sensor Output 3
According to my 7240 controller: Yellow= Phase A, Blue= Phase B and Green= Phase C
So accordingly, I switched the Blue and Green hall wire connections to: Y-Y, G-B, B-G
I have also tried direct match with no luck....

I am really thinking that either the Red power or Black ground wire is open going into the motor because no matter what I do, nothing changes. Also, the Thermistor on the Adaptto display remains a constant 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) even after riding? The motor or controller never get warm either, but seems something ought to change? The outside air temperature changes? Any help?

I'll be Back!

Here is my settings /profiles and stats for my cromotor v3 laced in 17" rim with shinko sr241 3.0" wide running 22s lipo:




Profiles:


With these settings i can reach ~104km/h (GPS confirmed) on flat with OVS 3 :

striker54 said:

Here is my settings /profiles and stats for my cromotor v3 laced in 17" rim with shinko sr241 3.0" wide running 22s lipo:


With these settings i can reach ~104km/h (GPS confirmed) on flat with OVS 3 :

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Nice !

you seem to have an excellent battery internal resistance of 38 milliohm! great!

This help to get the 12.5kW I'm sure! :wink:

for 22s that's about 38/22 = 1.72 miliohms per cell including all the wire and connectors

Striker Ri is not that bad with your Multistar! I thought that it would be higher.

The RI have lowered a lot after putting the packs in parallel. I'm using 16Ah + 16Ah + 8Ah packs in parallel (and in reality the 16Ah pack's are 2p).
Also it help alot that I have used 10AWG wire for the paralell packs and 8AWG for series.

So, after further testing I'm suspecting I'm right. I have an open circuit in the motor that powers the hall sensors by doing a continuity check through the motor between the +5 volt red halls power wire and black ground wire with the 6-pin connector unplugged. I also can confirm that that Mini-E controller outputs about +5 volts by taking a voltage reading between the same wires at the same point with the 6-pin connector plugged in and the controller powered up......

Can someone confirm that this is a legit test method and there should be continuity through the motor between power and ground, please?

Skwardog, have a look at the first page of Allex's stealth bomber goes adapt at 11kw thread in ebike photo and video. Halfway down the page he has a picture of the Adaptto phase wiring which is what I used with my 4065 and MXUS. Just remember you are looking at the front of the plug so you have to reverse when solder the contacts (guess what I did first go). Be careful, it only takes a tiny bit of solder to short them out which will cause hall errors on the adaptto (guess what else I did).

9lives said:

Skwardog, have a look at the first page of Allex's stealth bomber goes adapt at 11kw thread in ebike photo and video. Halfway down the page he has a picture of the Adaptto phase wiring which is what I used with my 4065 and MXUS. Just remember you are looking at the front of the plug so you have to reverse when solder the contacts (guess what I did first go). Be careful, it only takes a tiny bit of solder to short them out which will cause hall errors on the adaptto (guess what else I did).

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9lives are you referring to this picture:

This is the way I wired it the first time. I'm pretty meticulous and methodical (most people call me anal) when I build something. After it didn't work the second time, I proceeded to try all 6 possible combinations, with no different results. Also, the temperature sensor doesn't work, which to me says I'm not getting power to it or the halls. Furthermore one of the reasons I bought a new controller was because even with the Clyte controller and this motor, the APM never gave me a "Pass" reading and the motor would sometimes kick backwards before going forward, which now I realize it was running sensorless since new. I bought this motor so I wouldn't have to mod it myself and paid a lot of money for it. It is still under warrantee, so I don't want to open it up......yet! Today I want to talk to the arrogant vendor and want to make sure I'm right before I grab his grimy little chicken neck and choke the punk-ass boogerwoofer for wasting this week of my life...... Believe me, I'm no electronics expert, but I'm not stupid either.

And Thanks, my friend, for your help! It is really appreciated!
SDog

skWarDog said:

9lives said:

Skwardog, have a look at the first page of Allex's stealth bomber goes adapt at 11kw thread in ebike photo and video. Halfway down the page he has a picture of the Adaptto phase wiring which is what I used with my 4065 and MXUS. Just remember you are looking at the front of the plug so you have to reverse when solder the contacts (guess what I did first go). Be careful, it only takes a tiny bit of solder to short them out which will cause hall errors on the adaptto (guess what else I did).

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9lives are you referring to this picture:

This is the way I wired it the first time. I'm pretty meticulous and methodical (most people call me anal) when I build something. After it didn't work the second time, I proceeded to try all 6 possible combinations, with no different results. Also, the temperature sensor doesn't work, which to me says I'm not getting power to it or the halls. Furthermore one of the reasons I bought a new controller was because even with the Clyte controller, the APM never gave me a "Pass" reading and the motor would sometimes kick backwards before going forward, which now I realize it was running sensorless since new. I bought this motor so I wouldn't have to mod it myself and paid a lot of money for it. It is still under warrantee, so I don't want to open it up......yet! Today I want to talk to the arrogant vendor and want to make sure I'm right before I grab his grimy little chicken neck and choke the punk-ass boogerwoofer for wasting this week of my life...... Believe me, I'm no electronics expert, but I'm not stupid either.

And Thanks, my friend, for your help! It is really appreciated!
SDog

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Skwardog, have you tried to bend a little bit the pins to the center of the plug?
I remember that other member was getting a problem with these type of connectors an was resolved by bending a little bit the pins so that when connecting the female part of the plug they make a better connection.

striker54 said:

Skwardog, have you tried to bend a little bit the pins to the center of the plug?
I remember that other member was getting a problem with these type of connectors an was resolved by bending a little bit the pins so that when connecting the female part of the plug they make a better connection.

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Well Striker, I'm testing on the motor side of the connector by opening the back of connector touching soldered wire/pin and getting +4.87 volts through the connector from the controller with the system powered on, so power definitely runs through the connector. Then I turn the power off and disconnect the connector, change the DMM from dc volts to Ohms and check continuity through the motor using the same 2 wires/same points (red-power, black-ground) and the meter stays at 0.00 ohms...... I believe there should be continuity through the halls (I even have a spare hall and it has continuity between the first and second pin?). So, what I'm asking, Is this a valid test for an open circuit (broken wire)?

PS- This motor has been a nightmare, the vendor said he was going to give me a 10% discount because I was an ES community member....... I think he charged me 10% extra. It was $844.10 for a bare unlaced crystalyte H4080! Is that how the community should be treated?

Skwardog, It is not the controller that you should bin it is the motor. 800 Dineros, that is crazy! Just get MXUS, it is a much better motor and will set you back at around 300bucks shipped. Sorry to say this!

Adaptto will run sensorless but not as good as regular Infineon controllers, because it only emulates square wave So treat sensorless mode as "get home without halls" only.

It does not really matter in which order you solder halls and connect the phase wires, it will auto detect it.
Anyway, it is a lot of info here in this thread so not much more to add.

Are the 4080 motors really 844 dollars? Something isnt adding up there is no way they can be that expensive.

Offroader said:

Are the 4080 motors really 844 dollars? Something isnt adding up there is no way they can be that expensive.

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Well Offroader, Hi-PieceO Chit didn't provide a receipt at purchase but it is the only thing I ever bought from that Clip-Joint.... Here's my bank statement showing what he charged me and to be fair, after a month of phone calls, he did finally honor his promised discount. So, I included that, but still it was a defective product from the get go..... Also, I'm including our PM's from Endless Sphere promising a discount I honored what I said and called him to buy the motor. Because I don't frocking lie or play games with people, I say it like it is and make sure I'm right before I tell you about yourself....
View attachment Hi-Power Receipt.pdf

skWarDog said:

Hi HPC,
I'm looking for a replacement motor for my 72 volt full-suspension MTB, my H35 motor and wheel were stolen. The controller is a Clyte 7240 from Electric Rider as is the batt. I am looking for a more powerful motor than the Clyte H35, maybe your XXL (Striker or Thunderbolt), TC or maybe you have a suggestion? Can I give you a call? I'm ready to buy today if the price is right.

I like your bikes a lot, interested to see what the pro testers have to say, especially balance and whip. I kinda like your higher battery height, seems more centered horizontally and vertically (0-0 point) for us Huckers. Keep it moving forward my electric friend!
Thanks Man,
Mark Skwara
609-672-8043

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His Response:

hi-powercycles said:

Hi There,
Call us 818 734 1600. Ask for Chris. Thanks. I will give you a 10% discount. Keep in mind, these are upgraded motors, so they are more expensive than electric rider (stock c-lyte).

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Chris, I know your looking at this right now, you better wake up before I start calling the G-man tomorrow...... I can be reasonable still?
SDog

Mr Skwara,
If you want to bring these issues to a public forum, we would also like 100% honesty and clarity. We did make a mistake on the billing and subsequent refund, and we are very sorry for the delay in the refund. After you called us regarding the refund in the beginning of December, we took care of the 10% refund right away and gave you an additional 5% off for your inconvenience to make you happy. After nearly 5 months this is the one and only documented issue we have heard from you regarding your purchase. You have not emailed or called about any issues regarding your purchase of the custom air cooled motor, spokes, freewheel and connectors we sent you.

We are quite open and upfront about our Warranty and offer a very solid warranty-
"Month 2 to Month 12- (2 year warranty)
HPC will repair/replace the defective product free of charge, and will not charge any associated labor costs. Customer is responsible for paying ALL shipping charges to and from Hi-Power Cycles"
In the first 30 days, we will cover costs to and from you. Like I told you on the phone, we will happily look into the hall sensor issue if there is one and repair it for you free of cost as it would be covered under warranty if there turned out to be a problem. There is no reason to use vulgarity and make threats over the phone towards us as we are only trying to help you resolve your issue to the best of our ability. We even tried a follow up call with you offering another possible solution and you hung up the phone on us a second time.

Allex said:

Skwardog, It is not the controller that you should bin it is the motor. 800 Dineros, that is crazy! Just get MXUS, it is a much better motor and will set you back at around 300bucks shipped. Sorry to say this.

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Haha, Don't be sorry to give me good advice, I call myself an idiot when it's true..... and that happens a lot! No worries either, Adapttos not a good controller, it's World Class Supreme! Andrey, yourself and the Adaptto bunch done a great job to make sure everyone who purchased your product was supported and happy with it! That and your pride in the product earns my respect.
Anyway, I want to take your advice and get a MXUS 3000, I know you were selling them a while back. There doesn't seem to be many available right now though and I heard a rumor there may be a V-3 coming out? Any info? Are you holding now? Let me know.... Thanks Man!
SDog

Something stinks around here, you smell that? Oh....

hi-powercycles said:

Mr Skwara,
If you want to bring these issues to a public forum, we would also like 100% honesty and clarity. We did make a mistake on the billing and subsequent refund, and we are very sorry for the delay in the refund. After you called us regarding the refund in the beginning of December, we took care of the 10% refund right away and gave you an additional 5% off for your inconvenience to make you happy.

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It would have made me happy if you bench tested your product to make sure it's fully operational, like everyone else does instead of silk screening your name on it and shipping it with NO RECEIPT, NO WARRANTY, NO PINOUT OR SPEC SHEET.

hi-powercycles said:

After nearly 5 months this is the one and only documented issue we have heard from you regarding your purchase. You have not emailed or called about any issues regarding your purchase of the custom air cooled motor, spokes, freewheel and connectors we sent you.

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Bullcrap, I called you personally at least 3 times just to get the receipt cus I told you my original wheel was stolen out of my good friends bike shop and we needed it for insurance claim.... He's the one who wanted it because he felt really bad, I told him to fogetaboutit because owning a bike shop these days is a tough business and I know he's not doing well financially. BTW, we caught the perp, his first court date is April 14.[/quote]

hi-powercycles said:

We are quite open and upfront about our Warranty and offer a very solid warranty-
"Month 2 to Month 12- (2 year warranty)
HPC will repair/replace the defective product free of charge, and will not charge any associated labor costs. Customer is responsible for paying ALL shipping charges to and from Hi-Power Cycles"
In the first 30 days, we will cover costs to and from you. Like I told you on the phone, we will happily look into the hall sensor issue if there is one and repair it for you free of cost as it would be covered under warranty if there turned out to be a problem.

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UMMM, NO RECEIPT, NO WARRANTY in box, What don't you understand about that? I ordered over the phone. Are you trying to jive talk the ES community?

hi-powercycles said:

There is no reason to use vulgarity and make threats over the phone towards us as we are only trying to help you resolve your issue to the best of our ability.

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[/quote]
It's not a threat, it's a promise.... I'm calling California Consumer Affairs and BBB tomorrow and filing a complaint against your business to get my money returned. And if not, no biggy Dude, I raced motorcycles & Buggy's for 25 years, I disintegrated many $800 parts in hours.... I bought an $800 bottle of champagne last week, gone in 60 gulps! In my book, you have no abilities.

hi-powercycles said:

We even tried a follow up call with you offering another possible solution and you hung up the phone on us a second time.

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Well, you started talking out your ass again about me paying more money for a motor that's already off my bike and not going back on! I don't run losers name on my shit..... some people even give me free stuff for putting their name on me or wearing their skis!

And Dude, your stinking up this very useful and crowded thread....... If you have something else to say, have respect and step outside here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=68235

Allex said:

Don't use more than 800mAh:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=425#p954355

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i guess you meant max current that Adaptto display can give is 800mA.
do you know what happens if we plug a modern phone or tablet to it which can drain over 2000mA?
i read about power cut outs from an owner who has charged his iphone during riding, but i do not rember in what thread..

@skwardog
1) All products that leave our facility are bench tested- whether it is batteries on the test stand, or motors.
2) All receipts are emailed automatically by our point of sale system. Unless we had the wrong email address, it would have been sent to you.
3) To save paper, we do not print warranty information as it is on our website. All packages that leave our facility come with our packing slip displaying your order as well.

Last thing I want to do is muddle up this thread about these cool controllers, so we will leave it at this. You know we are more than willing to help, test or solve any problems you have once you get your motor back to us! We stand behind our products 100%.

madin88 said:

Allex said:

Don't use more than 800mAh:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=425#p954355

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i guess you meant max current that Adaptto display can give is 800mA.
do you know what happens if we plug a modern phone or tablet to it which can drain over 2000mA?
i read about power cut outs from an owner who has charged his iphone during riding, but i do not rember in what thread..

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I also charged my iphone - over the adaptto.
Normaly the device regulates / checks how many current it could take.
It checks the point if the voltage brakes down, an let the current on this level.
The important thing is, that the voltage are not allowed to get higher than 5V - otherwise it could damage the device.

GreenRoad said:

Normaly the device regulates / checks how many current it could take.
It checks the point if the voltage brakes down, an let the current on this level.

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thats what i also thought - the device will check how much curent it can take by watching voltage sag and than stay at a safe point
but the posting about power cut from a user i do not know anymore makes me worry a bit.
hmm, probably there was a different problem.

madin88 said:

but the posting about power cut from a user i do not know anymore makes me worry a bit.

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crea2k

hi-powercycles said:

@skwardog
1) All products that leave our facility are bench tested- whether it is batteries on the test stand, or motors.

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I have disassembled your motor and found the problem. Obviously, you did not bench test this motor...... pictures, analysis and testimony by bike shop owner, ASE certified mechanic (one of the best Honda Motors Corp has in my area) and an Electrical Engineer, who were all present, will be posted here. I am dealing now with California Division of Consumer Affairs and IRS, I have been advised it's in my best interest to not publish anything yet until they verify a receipt was provided at time of sale and all terms of agreement were honored (ie: the 10% discount at POS you promised to members of Endless Sphere).

hi-powercycles said:

2) All receipts are emailed automatically by our point of sale system. Unless we had the wrong email address, it would have been sent to you.

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Tell you what, produce that dated email receipt to any email address I own (you only have one though, and it's the same one you finally sent the receipt to yesterday), publish it here and I will kiss your ass in the middle of the intersection of Hollywood and Vine! Like every word out of your chicken neck this is a straight-up lie.......

hi-powercycles said:

3) To save paper, we do not print warranty information as it is on our website. All packages that leave our facility come with our packing slip displaying your order as well.

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I didn't contact you from your website, I didn't even know you had a website until yesterday. I contacted you from a post/ad you placed on Endless Sphere and placed my order over the phone. The product I purchased is not even listed on your website? Like I said, I got a box with the motor in it, no packing list, no pinout diagram (all connectors were covered in black heatshrink, witch I had to cut off to figure out the wire colors/pinout? So quit your bullshitting!

hi-powercycles said:

Last thing I want to do is muddle up this thread about these cool controllers, so we will leave it at this. You know we are more than willing to help, test or solve any problems you have once you get your motor back to us! We stand behind our products 100%.

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Sure you did, I created a new thread in a separate area for this BS so we wouldn't pollute this thread...... Mods didn't like that, so I guess we'll settle it in this thread!

Is it possible to use a regular twist throttle to use for variable regen with the max-e?

If it is how do I connect it exactly?

Thanks