improving MXUS 3000 V2

More indoor unloaded testing tonight, first wot run got just 27.5 mph with 76volts in the pack, phase wires steaming hot after just 20 seconds. Second run didn't happen as motor dead and CA showing no current draw.
Rear wheel "cogs" when turned by hand but spins freely when phases are disconnected.

From my previous studies, I now believe the phase wires have melted and shorted. Excellent.
This can't be right after just two short runs surely??

Before anyone asks, no there are no problems with the wheel spinning freely, or anything rubbing!
Somebody shoot me.... :cry:
 
Could probably be a few FETs blown in the controller due to wrong combination of phase/hall wires. It sucks, but at least lesson learned, if your phase wires/controller are getting hot to the touch by just doing some full throttle runs with the wheel up in the air - bad wire combination.
 
Is the lesson learned " don't use the wiring combination that the motor supplier gives you" ???? :shock:
So it's time to send the controller back to Lyen in San Francisco?
This is turning out to be a bad week......
 
Something like that :(
On top of that, you probably need to change your phase wires AND hall wires, if you had a "meltdown" chances are big that some of the hall wires could be shorted as well.
Motor supplier does not know what controller combo is working 100% on different controller. But if they deliver both motor and controller then they should of course provide the right combination.
 
Here's my phase wire upgrade in progress on the V1. Using same cables as @madin88.
And that axle entrance outside realy is sharp, can easily peel cables.

2015-04-20%2020.48.59_1024x768.jpg
 
i have used standard black silicone, but in future i will use sikaflex (552 type) because it sticks much better than silicone. i have already worked with it and its aweseom how strong it holds.
yes the edges where the wires enters the axle are extremely sharp. you should grind them to a nice round shape.
it looks like you have not been able to put the bunch of wires together with shrinktube covered through the axle. it was not easy, but when i placed in every gap 2 hall wires (like its done in stock wire) and cover them with thin tesa film before adding shrinktube (so they stay at its place), it should be doable :)
 
Madin, I am thinking of buying those cables you linked to, so they go in without problems along with the hall wires inside the stock axle?
 
Allex said:
Madin, I am thinking of buying those cables you linked to, so they go in without problems along with the hall wires inside the stock axle?
Click to expand...

yes they definitely will fit together with the stock hall wires. if you want to cover all wires with shrink tube it needs more care but its possible (if you do like described in above post).
 
madin88 said:
Allex said:
Madin, I am thinking of buying those cables you linked to, so they go in without problems along with the hall wires inside the stock axle?
Click to expand...

yes they definitely will fit together with the stock hall wires. if you want to cover all wires with shrink tube it needs more care but its possible (if you do like described in above post).
Click to expand...
Yep, still some space without shrink tube. With shrink tube there's the problem with bulging.
Will put shrink tube on from outside into the axle as far as possible, and hope it's enough :)
 
teklektik said:
unclejam said:
From my previous studies, I now believe the phase wires have melted and shorted.
Click to expand...
Allex said:
Could probably be a few FETs blown in the controller due to wrong combination of phase/hall wires.
Click to expand...
Ya - sounds like controller, not phase wires.

You may find these useful:
Click to expand...

Many thanks for the advice everyone. Looks like it's time to find a new controller, repair is probably not financially sensible :(
Anyone got a spare 100v 60A controller they want to sell??
 
Thanks for the offer but I'm running at 80v, so this wouldn't be beefy enough.
 
Hi guys. Got a replacement controller but now got another problem :(
I noticed that several of the brake rotor bolts on the MXUS motor have become loose and on investigating / tightening again, they are stripped!
I haven't over-torqued them and am now wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue and if so, how did you solve it?
(Luckily i have a tap and die set if necessary...)
Thanks for any help - yet again!!
 
I'm told - "Longer bolts !!!!"
Sounds good to me :lol:
 
Cheers for the advice Mr Duck!
Apparently its happened before to users of this motor. I'll wind some longer ones in there. :wink:
 
The disk bolts are on the short side and I had mine come lose as well despite lock tight (running a spacer to be fair). A couple holes were likewise stripped but the bolt holes have some depth so I went with longer bolts to match and nil issues since then.
 
Yeah, I have used a new set of longer bolts with thread lock and they have all tightened up fine.
Job done. (Wheelies away into the sunset!) :twisted:
 
Well and I am doing the upgrade by my proved Method - Turnigy wires with removed silicone insulation and covered with shrink tube instead.
DSC05597.JPG

DSC05601.JPG

Oh and the C-ring was not snapped in its place! Not liking it. This would mean that we need to open up every motor and check if everything is ok in there.

DSC05603.JPG
 
Allex said:
Well and I am doing the upgrade by my proved Method - Turnigy wires with removed silicone insulation and covered with shrink tube instead.
Click to expand...
This is such a good method. It should become the standard for all those doing phase wire mods. :)

Why are you going 12AWG though? I would have thought the MXUS axle slot was big enough for 10AWG.

Cheers
 
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