Stealth Bomber goes Adaptto at 12kW

Allex · Apr 15, 2015

macribs said:
@Allex.

I had no idea OVS was so insane. In fact speed increase from 70-100 km/h is a 42,9% improvement.
That is just off the charts. I was hoping OVS would yield at best 10-12 km/h or maybe even 15-20%. But you actually gets a 43% higher speed.

What current are the max-e pumping out increasing from 70 and up to max?

The current it will pump up is the power you need to reach that speed. So for 100km/h you need around 8-9kW(I believe) ~110amps on 20s
But here is a little catch. If OVS5 is what you need to reach 100km/h it will start to lower the current when you are close to that top speed.
So if you are using to much OVS, in our axamle 7, it will continue to push maximum current even at 100km/ because you tell the controller to go faster, but it cannot push you faster because it does not have more power - remember that effiency goes down at high OVS.
So it is essential to choose a suitable OVS value, otherwise it will just dump a lot of heat to the motor for nothing.

ecross · Apr 15, 2015

Allex said:
Do you mean 5403 motor?
You could use 24s but it will limit the current until it reaches 92Volts.
I suggest to charge your 24s to 98Volts
But in the case of 24s, dont use OVS, you can blow the FETs

Using 20s it is safe to have OVS7 with 22s probably OVS2?

OVS could give you about 30% of speed gain.
like when I tried MXUS 4t on 20s, it gave me 70km/h and with OVS5-7 the speed went up to 100km/h

Some mixed riding:
[youtube]Yd2C5KcEXbY[/youtube]

@Allex: Thanks for the great numbers, very interesting! So I can go down from my 24S to 20S (sorry only 20" BMX-Rim!) without less topspeed! And I have some more save running for the poor controller!?

knighty · Apr 15, 2015

nice connector for the charger - I just ordered some

biggest I could find are 30amp cont. 40amp for 1 min

bought a 4 pole so I can parallel up 2 pairs for my 70amp coil / probably 50amp charging max

macribs · Apr 16, 2015

ridethelightning said:
yeah the problem with ovs is ,once you turn it up, you dont want to turn it down anymore :lol:

Is there any reason to turn it down again? Except maybe to save some energy for a long ride. But other then that seems like this should be on by default

splitfire · Apr 16, 2015

How much each of those 18650? Mah? What is your batt configuration .how many cells did you use? I want to buy these batteries but I dont have spot welding.

chucho · Apr 16, 2015

bigbore said:
This morning I got the circuit to use with the PAS.
This is roughly the schematic, the builder made some modifications at the final review.
There is the possibility to close the contact labeled Disabler in the pic and doing that the Throttle is connected to +5V as it is before adding the circuit.

This is the circuit, it's very little (MANET is the Throttle input):

The builder added the feature called 6Km/h that override the PAS. Connecting together the orange wires with a switch it allows to ride the e-bike at a very low speed with out twisting the throttle for few seconds. It was introduced to move the e-bike up to a ramp just outside the garage for example.

The next days I will install the circuit inside the frame and I hope everything will work as expected.

Like it very much! Can you please send me a link to the product :wink:

arcticfly · May 1, 2015

I subscribe to this thread so I have the info readily available. My Stealth needs a new battery, so I might as well use yours as a guide.

bigbore · May 5, 2015

Transparent lower shield.
I made this protection with clear lexan of 2mm thikness to protect the wires under the Bomber from the dirt:

bigbore · May 5, 2015

Front light cheap and very bright:
I bough this front light here: http://www.banggood.com/5000Lm-CREE-XM-L-2x-U2-LED-Bike-Bicycle-HeadLamp-Front-Head-Light-p-908550.html

And I made the mount with a carbon fiber plate of 3mm thickness and ah half cylinder to adjust the position:

I have been buying from bangood from some years and never had any issue yet but this time they didn't included the charger. Than I discovered a funny thing. I decided to use the included battery but the connector on the battery wire can't pass trough the hole in the frame so i decided to desolder the wires from the battery and pass just the wires then solder the wires on the battery again.
Look what I found out after removing the shrink wrap:

There are 3 fake cells and only one connected to the wire :shock:

So I removed the fake cells and solder the wires on the pink cell only, at least the pack is very light :mrgreen:

I will check for run time and decide if I will need some more capacity

fsmuggen · May 5, 2015

Ah

nice one.. are the blue ones totaly fake? like made of plastic or wood?

SlowCo · May 5, 2015

Didn't you read the warning in their ad?:
Do not disassemble the battery pack, so as not to affect product performance and safety hazard.

Or would that warning be there more in the hope nobody will find the dummy cells... :lol:

bigbore · May 5, 2015

fsmuggen said:
Ah nice one.. are the blue ones totaly fake? like made of plastic or wood?

These ones are real Li-Ion cells but one of them is crap because it's voltage is 0,7V, the other 2 are in the correct voltage range but I didn't try to charge or discharge them yet.

cwah · May 5, 2015

nice job

Rix · May 5, 2015

Very nice Grande Cilindro! I really like that skid plate. Bummer with the bogus cells. I can't believe some manufactures would make garbage cells like that.

MurderousFrog · May 18, 2015

Nice job!
How did you wire the speakon connector on the bike side?
Do you have to manually disconnect the motor phase wire for charging?

Allex · May 18, 2015

No, no disconnection, just plug in the speakon and charge!
From one of the speakon tabs, the wire goes to one of the motor phase cables, second one goes to controller charge connector.

Offroader · May 27, 2015

Allex, I'm going to mount the temp probe similar to how you mounted yours on the windings.

I was wondering if you really need the red high temp silicone? Regular silicone is rated to work up to 200 degrees Celsius. Will the windings really see temps higher than 200 degree Celsius?

Do you really think red is needed or should any work? Reason I ask is because I Have lots of regular silicone that I could use.

Allex · May 27, 2015

Should work, unless you push it further than 200

fsmuggen · May 28, 2015

Here is a Easy way to connect the GL circuit to the adaptto and throttle.

madm3chanic · Jun 2, 2015

subscribed for future reference

kamdenburke · Jun 25, 2015

I just read through this entire thread. Do we know how far you can go on a charge without pedaling? What is your wh/mi usage on average?

Theodore Voltaire · Jun 26, 2015

kamdenburke said:
I just read through this entire thread. Do we know how far you can go on a charge without pedaling? What is your wh/mi usage on average?

It all depends how fast you want to go.

Without pedaling,

I estimate my Bomber will go 50 miles, cruising @ 20 mph with no headwind, and very little or no stopping.

Riding 50 mph, with no pedaling it's about 18 miles

bigbore · Jun 26, 2015

This is the first recorded data I had on a trip emptying the battery.
It was with little pedaling effort (ghost pedaling) with a pretty strong front wind. The power level was about 2Kw almost all the time.
I travelled 71Km using 28.3Ah, 2042Wh, 28.7Wh/Km and average speed was 45.6Km/h, remember that this is not a stock Bomber battery & controller.

Rix · Jun 26, 2015

Excellent numbers Simone, what was your volt sag like at the end of your ride?

bigbore · Jun 26, 2015

Rix said:
Excellent numbers Simone, what was your volt sag like at the end of your ride?

Resting battery voltage was 62V (I reached LVC) and the cells was around 3.11V each one. This was the BMS screen just after the ride:

And this was the main screen:

Stealth Bomber goes Adaptto at 12kW

100 MW

1 kW

10 kW

10 MW

1 W

1 kW

100 W

10 kW

10 kW

100 W

1 MW

10 kW

100 MW

100 TW

100 mW

100 MW

1 MW

100 MW

100 W

100 W

100 µW

1 GW

10 kW

100 TW

10 kW

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