E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Rix said:
BTW, I drove out to the Tesla Gigawatt Factory site. The guards wouldn't let me go past the ECP, or entry control point, so I snapped a pic and left. The ECP is over 2 miles away from the site and is a private road. Next mission is to do some cross county riding into the construction site and get some intel :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

What an incredible building...apparently this is just the pilot plant. It will eventually be 4 times the size.

[youtube]YSyE2RorjRI[/youtube]
 
voicecoils said:
Rix said:
As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.
Click to expand...

Good suggestion - trying to remove air bubbles. Another tip that improves lever travel is to use a thinner block between the pistons while bleeding. That allows you to get more fluid behind them while bleeding, putting the pads at a closer starting position. With the rotors and pads sitting closer together, extra attention will have to be paid to alignment when setting up to avoid annoying scraping or pinging when not braking.

Bubbles are also really stubborn little punks. Should there be any in the lines, master or caliper? No, but somehow there's aways a bit.

I bled my rear MT2 recently and it completely transformed them. I also put in fresh Magura Endurance pads which had thicker pad material than the aftermarket ones I had on previously. The brakes are still going strong after ~8000km on my non-Stealth ebike. It took a lot of patience to coax, knock and tap the majority of the bubbles out of the master & caliper but the result was great. I had to wind the adjuster in to bring the lever closer to the handlebar!
Click to expand...

Thx for the tips but Ive tried all of the above. Including the "new bleed procedure" check out the following vids and forum. This is a common problem W the Magura MT series. In doing research there are many threads about it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwfSVQQzexw - showing the issue
http://www.fareinc.com/65/MT8/Left_MT8.mp4 - showing the issue

http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php?showtopic=4980&st=20 -talking about the issue
http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php?showtopic=5053 - describing a possible fix. Which I did but am still not happy with. Hence I'm switching brakes. But if they work for you guys rock on! For me they are underpowered and mushy….both front and back feel the same….like I'm trying to stop a pancake with a couple of eclairs…..;)
 
1abv said:
voicecoils said:
Rix said:
As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.
Click to expand...

Good suggestion - trying to remove air bubbles. Another tip that improves lever travel is to use a thinner block between the pistons while bleeding. That allows you to get more fluid behind them while bleeding, putting the pads at a closer starting position. With the rotors and pads sitting closer together, extra attention will have to be paid to alignment when setting up to avoid annoying scraping or pinging when not braking.

Bubbles are also really stubborn little punks. Should there be any in the lines, master or caliper? No, but somehow there's aways a bit.

I bled my rear MT2 recently and it completely transformed them. I also put in fresh Magura Endurance pads which had thicker pad material than the aftermarket ones I had on previously. The brakes are still going strong after ~8000km on my non-Stealth ebike. It took a lot of patience to coax, knock and tap the majority of the bubbles out of the master & caliper but the result was great. I had to wind the adjuster in to bring the lever closer to the handlebar!
Click to expand...

Thx for the tips but Ive tried all of the above. Including the "new bleed procedure" check out the following vids and forum. This is a common problem W the Magura MT series. In doing research there are many threads about it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwfSVQQzexw - showing the issue
http://www.fareinc.com/65/MT8/Left_MT8.mp4 - showing the issue

http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php?showtopic=4980&st=20 -talking about the issue
http://www.support-english.magura.com/index.php?showtopic=5053 - describing a possible fix. Which I did but am still not happy with. Hence I'm switching brakes. But if they work for you guys rock on! For me they are underpowered and mushy….both front and back feel the same….like I'm trying to stop a pancake with a couple of eclairs…..;)
Click to expand...

Top of the range Mtb's dont use Magura brakes for a reason they are not the best out there
any if they did they would be Mt8 brakes and not the crappy 2 or 5's
Shimano are the best and should be on a Bomber for the money you spend
thx
steve
 
Regarding brake wear:

If anyone's Stealth brakes wear out unreasonably fast, then they might be dragging them or something else is abnormal. Such as the caliper pistons sticking, or crap pads or a warped rotor or too much grit on the rotors.

I depend on good braking power. On average around twice per week, I ride on trails with hard on/off brake usage. Often around mud unfortunately, and my pads are lasting quite well. Just cheap sintered pads off eBay. Original pads expired after maybe 6 months. My rotors are noticeably worn, but still OK.

Regarding brake power:

If anyone wants more powerful MT2s, then I'm totally with voicecoils on the bleeding. Also you can add a plastic cup inside the lever socket to get the lever grab point further from the grip.

Larger diam rotors are an option (at least with the Fighter swingarm and my DNM forks) and in my experience with motorbikes that makes a huge difference.
 
voicecoils said:
Rix said:
As far as lever travel goes, try bleeding your brakes. Its possible you got an air bubble in the line. That will make the lever travel a bit, and feel spongy doing it.
Click to expand...

Good suggestion - trying to remove air bubbles. Another tip that improves lever travel is to use a thinner block between the pistons while bleeding. That allows you to get more fluid behind them while bleeding, putting the pads at a closer starting position. With the rotors and pads sitting closer together, extra attention will have to be paid to alignment when setting up to avoid annoying scraping or pinging when not braking.

Bubbles are also really stubborn little punks. Should there be any in the lines, master or caliper? No, but somehow there's aways a bit.

I bled my rear MT2 recently and it completely transformed them. I also put in fresh Magura Endurance pads which had thicker pad material than the aftermarket ones I had on previously. The brakes are still going strong after ~8000km on my non-Stealth ebike. It took a lot of patience to coax, knock and tap the majority of the bubbles out of the master & caliper but the result was great. I had to wind the adjuster in to bring the lever closer to the handlebar!
Click to expand...

I need to get a caliper insert spacer for bleeding properly. You can bleed the brakes with out one, but you can't touch the lever. Basically just opening the bleeder valve and pushing fluid up to the lever reservoir. It works, but it can hide other problems. One thing about these brakes is if you notice a lot of lever travel and its not from air bubbles in the line, its a good indicator that the pads are wearing close to the metal and need to be replaced, but the way I bleed, you will never have that, the lever doesn't increase range so you cant base travel on wear. But, to see wear, its as simple as looking at your pads and seeing how thin they are and need replacing. All that being said, where can I get just the insert? I saw that its included with Magura's Pro Mechanics kit, but I don't need all of that other shit to bleed brakes at the home shop level.
 
Emmett said:
Regarding brake wear:

If anyone's Stealth brakes wear out unreasonably fast, then they might be dragging them or something else is abnormal. Such as the caliper pistons sticking, or crap pads or a warped rotor or too much grit on the rotors.

I depend on good braking power. On average around twice per week, I ride on trails with hard on/off brake usage. Often around mud unfortunately, and my pads are lasting quite well. Just cheap sintered pads off eBay. Original pads expired after maybe 6 months. My rotors are noticeably worn, but still OK.

Regarding brake power:

If anyone wants more powerful MT2s, then I'm totally with voicecoils on the bleeding. Also you can add a plastic cup inside the lever socket to get the lever grab point further from the grip.

Larger diam rotors are an option (at least with the Fighter swingarm and my DNM forks) and in my experience with motorbikes that makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...

Yah, that's why I am running 228mm rotors up front. Braking power. I found a website that sells 255mm rotors for Tandem Mountain bikes, but at $155 dollars, its spendy.
 
remf said:
Rix said:
BTW, I drove out to the Tesla Gigawatt Factory site. The guards wouldn't let me go past the ECP, or entry control point, so I snapped a pic and left. The ECP is over 2 miles away from the site and is a private road. Next mission is to do some cross county riding into the construction site and get some intel :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

What an incredible building...apparently this is just the pilot plant. It will eventually be 4 times the size.

[]
Click to expand...

That's a neat vid. At 1:02, behind the ridge in the upper left is where the guard station is. Yah their looking at expanding that building by 3x times its size, local news article. I really want to get my own eyes on this thing, The running joke between my boss and I is we both quite and become security guards for Tesla's Gigafactory. :mrgreen:
 
Do it Rix! Are they advertising yet ?
Rock up there on your fighter and give Elon a demo. He might just offer you a job on the spot :mrgreen:
You might even get armed with a prototype plasma rifle :p
 
Rix said:
All that being said, where can I get just the insert? I saw that its included with Magura's Pro Mechanics kit, but I don't need all of that other shit to bleed brakes at the home shop level.
Click to expand...

Magura calls it the "transport devices" and it serves dual purpose of keeping pads apart for transport or flip it around to bleed with pads removed.

The newest version are thinner than they used to be for the exact reason of improving lever feel after bleeding.

If you want one Rix PM me your address. I'll be in the US in 3 weeks so can post it to you from there for nix.
 
voicecoils said:
Rix said:
All that being said, where can I get just the insert? I saw that its included with Magura's Pro Mechanics kit, but I don't need all of that other shit to bleed brakes at the home shop level.
Click to expand...

Magura calls it the "transport devices" and it serves dual purpose of keeping pads apart for transport or flip it around to bleed with pads removed.

The newest version are thinner than they used to be for the exact reason of improving lever feel after bleeding.

If you want one Rix PM me your address. I'll be in the US in 3 weeks so can post it to you from there for nix.
Click to expand...

PM Sent. Hook me up please!
 
Hyena said:
Do it Rix! Are they advertising yet ?
Rock up there on your fighter and give Elon a demo. He might just offer you a job on the spot :mrgreen:
You might even get armed with a prototype plasma rifle :p
Click to expand...

Yah, you know where my head is. Seriously though, could be career option. Once I am in, I can do security patrols through the R&D and see what kind of batter options are there :mrgreen: I wish :| All I am looking for is a 16-20s 40ah battery that can fit in the palm of my hand and weighs 3 pounds. :lol: :lol:
 
I want to no the best brakes with big rotors for a stealth bomber if I upgrade my mt5's?

thx
steve
 
I just tried to contact Stealth support about an issue I have, and it pinged back to me

Is this no longer a good address?

joe@stealthelectricbikes.com.au
 
Howdy folks, looking for some diagnostic wisdom/direction if you please?

'13 Bomber, original owner, 3rd frame (works good now with the seatpost bracket re-inforced, thanks Stealth!), ridden 20 - 50 km/day (9 mon/yr) on gravel trails & pavement, dry climate. v3.x Cycle Analyst, I believe?

Mid-ride, this afternoon with 1/2 battery capacity left, the throttle response ceased; toggled the keyswitch a couple of times while still riding (CA's LCD toggled off/on with key position) but still no throttle response. Tried again a minute later and the CA LCD no longer lit up.

Plugged the bike in @home and charging proceeded as per normal.
1/2 hr later I unplugged the charger from the bike, tore off the side panels & fiddled with the connectors - no change.
Found multimeter: measured 0 & infinite Ohms on plug to keywsitch for on/off positions.

Not sure how to proceed, other than dragging it down to the (nearby) dealer.
Can I further isolate the problem @home or will it be a matter of parts swapping until it works again?

TIA
 
stevebills said:
I want to no the best brakes with big rotors for a stealth bomber if I upgrade my mt5's?

thx
steve
Click to expand...


http://blog.rahoxbrakes.com/2014/09/top-10-mountain-bike-brakes-downhill-world-cup.html

I think this says it all...
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
I just tried to contact Stealth support about an issue I have, and it pinged back to me

Is this no longer a good address?

joe@stealthelectricbikes.com.au
Click to expand...

tech@stealthelectricbikes.com is the new address

bladewheels said:
Howdy folks, looking for some diagnostic wisdom/direction if you please?

'13 Bomber, original owner, 3rd frame (works good now with the seatpost bracket re-inforced, thanks Stealth!), ridden 20 - 50 km/day (9 mon/yr) on gravel trails & pavement, dry climate. v3.x Cycle Analyst, I believe?

Mid-ride, this afternoon with 1/2 battery capacity left, the throttle response ceased; toggled the keyswitch a couple of times while still riding (CA's LCD toggled off/on with key position) but still no throttle response. Tried again a minute later and the CA LCD no longer lit up.

Plugged the bike in @home and charging proceeded as per normal.
1/2 hr later I unplugged the charger from the bike, tore off the side panels & fiddled with the connectors - no change.
Found multimeter: measured 0 & infinite Ohms on plug to keywsitch for on/off positions.

Not sure how to proceed, other than dragging it down to the (nearby) dealer.
Can I further isolate the problem @home or will it be a matter of parts swapping until it works again?

TIA
Click to expand...

Hmm sounds like the pack. It might be more like swapping a cell not a part. Of course your pack might be nearing its end of life in which case you might want to get a new pack. Best to contact tech@stealthelectricbikes.com

[edit] Rereading this, it could also be the controller. A couple of years ago I had a rare combo fault of both a blown FET and a cell. I had to send the controller and the pack for repairs...I thought it would takes ages to repair but was amazed when I was back riding again a week or 2 later.

Rix said:
All I am looking for is a 16-20s 40ah battery that can fit in the palm of my hand and weighs 3 pounds. :lol: :lol:
Click to expand...

Elon keeps those for his electric jetpack :) Actually regular, everyday Model S cells are probably the most energy dense and hard to kill of any available right now.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=67721
 
I am going to fit Shamano saints to my bomber b52 and has anyone else done this yet?
I just spoke to a bomber owner who fitted avid code brakes and need to google them now
thx
steve
 
bladewheels said:
Howdy folks, looking for some diagnostic wisdom/direction if you please?

'13 Bomber, original owner, 3rd frame (works good now with the seatpost bracket re-inforced, thanks Stealth!), ridden 20 - 50 km/day (9 mon/yr) on gravel trails & pavement, dry climate. v3.x Cycle Analyst, I believe?

Mid-ride, this afternoon with 1/2 battery capacity left, the throttle response ceased; toggled the keyswitch a couple of times while still riding (CA's LCD toggled off/on with key position) but still no throttle response. Tried again a minute later and the CA LCD no longer lit up.

Plugged the bike in @home and charging proceeded as per normal.
1/2 hr later I unplugged the charger from the bike, tore off the side panels & fiddled with the connectors - no change.
Found multimeter: measured 0 & infinite Ohms on plug to keywsitch for on/off positions.

Not sure how to proceed, other than dragging it down to the (nearby) dealer.
Can I further isolate the problem @home or will it be a matter of parts swapping until it works again?

TIA
Click to expand...

remf said:
Hmm sounds like the pack. It might be more like swapping a cell not a part. Of course your pack might be nearing its end of life in which case you might want to get a new pack. Best to contact tech@stealthelectricbikes.com

[edit] Rereading this, it could also be the controller. A couple of years ago I had a rare combo fault of both a blown FET and a cell. I had to send the controller and the pack for repairs...I thought it would takes ages to repair but was amazed when I was back riding again a week or 2 later.
Click to expand...

Thanks remf; I'll let my local dealer call Stealth, etc. They (Revolution Cycle, Edmonton, AB) are pretty good.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
remf said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
I just tried to contact Stealth support about an issue I have, and it pinged back to me

Is this no longer a good address?

joe@stealthelectricbikes.com.au
Click to expand...

tech@stealthelectricbikes.com is the new address
Click to expand...

Thanks remf
Click to expand...

I know I used to have 3 or email addresses for Steatlh that ended in .au and those don't work now. I deleted them from address book and will update as I come across new addresses.
 
I went out on the Bomber today and the left hand side peddle complete with arm fell off and what do I need to put it on with there is a large looking alley key slot on the arm and do i tigten it clockwise?

help thx steve
 
stevebills said:
I went out on the Bomber today and the left hand side peddle complete with arm fell off and what do I need to put it on with there is a large looking alley key slot on the arm and do i tigten it clockwise?

help thx steve
Click to expand...

Just slot arm back on with abit of lube so it dont seize on and do the allen key up thats inside
 
stevebills said:
I went out on the Bomber today and the left hand side peddle complete with arm fell off and what do I need to put it on with there is a large looking alley key slot on the arm and do i tigten it clockwise?

help thx steve
Click to expand...

On your crank arms mounting faces, you got an allen threaded cap sized 10mm and inside of the cap is the actual bolt sized 8mm. Don' touch the 10mm cap bolt. Grab yourself and 8mm allen wrench, and some grease and put that on BB outside spindle . Maybe put just a little bit of blue lock tight inside of the bb bracket spindle threads. Then torque it down. I can't remember but it seems like you don't want to exceed 35nm of torque. I have the manual on my other computer and can look up the torque specs tomorrow.
 
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