E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

CD haven’t you modified your Fighter massively including adding an Adaptto controller, high voltage pack and a derailleur? The Adaptto & high voltage alone could be the reason for your issues. More power, more powerful regen. With such a powerful bike, you need to pay even closer attention to proper maintenance. How long have you had your bike? 4 years or more? That’s considerable wear & tear with such power over that timeframe. Also I don’t think regen was available then…did you install it yourself? You certainly seem to be having a LOT of issues especially with axle stripping. I haven’t had that issue since the installation of the torque clamp and have always tightened brake side first with 45 Nm as Rick says.

With the greatest respect, apart from the huge mods, this suggests that maybe you’re doing something wrong. I hardly ever have to think about making any adjustments but I still do a preflight before every ride. Very puzzling that you’ve had this many problems. I really don’t believe this has anything to do with design. If it is a design issue then why does it seem to be just your bike? I’ve never seen or heard of a wheel falling off before and can’t see how you can, in all seriousness, blame Stealth.
 
By the way for anyone else… I don't check the axles after ever ride. (I probably should) Maybe maybe once every 2 weeks riding off-road daily. Call me a slacker.. Anytime I take off any nylock nut I replace it with a new one. Since the last time I've had the rear wheel off which was at least 4 months ago it has not loosened one bit.
Maybe I got lucky w mine….

On another note I've always had issues with the side cover bolts coming loose and have to check those after ever ride if not in the middle of one.. Got some clear silicone, chucked a small dab on each bolt and they haven't moved since. I didn't want to use thread locker because I didn't want to be in a situation where the threads inside would spin loose.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
So I decided although the red brake goo helped stop axle rotation said:
http://s24.postimg.org/xrqjfco8l/P1070141.jpg[/img]
P1070142.jpg

P1070163.jpg


Just quickly tested for a couple of K's and it seems to be working. Only time will truly tell, as it did with the red stuff. Will report back in a few hundred more kms with how it went. :)

Cheers

CD, I was waiting for you to report back on this, did this not work or what? I was hoping the heat shrink would have worked. :?
 
Yeah I'm with the others here CD.
Regen is well documented to be hard on axles and loosen nuts if not properly checked and tensioned and you set out knowing yours was damaged and used it anyway. If it ripped off the bike like that it was either so badly damaged you shouldn't have even considered taking it out and/or you would have felt it clunking and rocking around prior to that. I've had nuts come loose mid-ride and when you feel that first clunk of the axle shifting that's your signal to not use regen again until you get home and tighten the nuts up.
Also as remf said your bike is far from standard so it's additionally unreasonable to blame stealth for the failures. You're using a much more powerful controller and battery pushing almost double the power the bike was originally designed to take. Not that I can preach, I was one of the first people around with a hacked fighter (same vintage as yours) and running even more power again but I always knew that if anything failed it was totally on me. Incidentally, nothing ever did fail even when I had it set up running 9000w and heavy motorcycle rims and tyres with speeds topping out at 100km/hr. I had a heap of broken spokes that gave in to the torque of the brutal acceleration and regen, buckled rims from plowing through rough terrain too hard and multiple crashes - but never any issues with the dropouts. More recently Alex had his old bomber up to 12kw safely on the stock frame and there are others around on this thread (who's names escape me at the moment) running higher power without failure too. Not that stealth encourage or support this.

So yeah, I think blaming stealth is a bit rich...

Rix said:
CD, I was waiting for you to report back on this, did this not work or what? I was hoping the heat shrink would have worked
Rix, you've made alot of helpful posts for stealth owners and other ES members, especially with your wealth of experience on motorcycle rim conversions. But I think this post is your finest ES contribution to date :mrgreen:
 
Well, it seems I've hit a nerve or something with my previous comments. I was pretty pissed off at the whole situation yesterday so may have pointed the blame finger too harshly in Stealth's direction. I apologise if it seemed like I was twisting the truth at all.
It is still my opinion however that the design leaves a lot to be desired. I do also recognise that my situation is far from perfect and I have made a few mistakes myself along the way. Mainly that's over-tightening the axle nuts...it was the quick and 'easy' solution to the rotation issue...but clearly a mistake.

Kepler said:
I think in your case your dropouts started to flog out before the the torque blocks were introduced so I imagine it's a bit of an a cumulative situation. It was the regen feature that highlighted the need for torque blocks. Also tolerances on the torque arms were tightened up to cope with the extra load. Just part of the bikes evolution.
In regards to what I would have done in relation to maintenance, I would have simply repaired or replaced the worn parts before they became problematic. I had my swing arm checked and re powder coated just because some of the coating had cracked off in places and I wanted to make sure there were no underlying problems.
Yes, my drop-outs were flogged out before the axle clamping blocks were added. The thing is before that point in time (2012-2013), that 'flogging' occurred because the bike was used as supplied by Stealth in stock form. My Fighter (#66) was supplied with Regen from the outset...one of the first. I vaguely recall being told by Stealth (John K) that Regen was a feature they had been testing for some time prior to that point and only decided to introduce it after they were confident they would not see any issues with axle rotation. I lost count of the number of people reporting axle rotation issues on this thread because of Regen.
Yes the addition of the axle clamps helped, but in my case (and others I recall) it did not eliminate the problem. When I first reported my issues to Stealth (back in 2012) I was sent the newer (at the time) 'tighter tolerance' torque blocks. Again...didn't eliminate the problem for me. Then after complaining about it E-S member sent me some custom made aluminium axle clamps. That also helped, and even stopped it for a time, but not for ever...then Stealth started supplying axle clamps as well, so I got one of them...again seemed to help, but didn't eliminate the problem.

If I lived next door to Stealth like you John I probably would have had the parts checked and re-powdercoated, but most Stealth owners aren't in that situation and have to make do.

litespeed said:
I cut a piece off and put it in there and never got a bit of slop up until my son broke one side of the axle and the other side spun from the cheesy cheap metal the axles were made from.
Just an idea of what you could use to tighten up tolerances if need be.
For the record though, clamping drop outs are the shit!
Thanks Tom! Appreciate the helpful comment. :)
Slipping something into the gap is one of the few things I haven't tried yet. How did you manage to squeeze it in there? I can't see how I could get anything in there...I can't even see a gap!

Rix said:
CD, not trying to pick an online argument here, but my Bomber that my dad is currently riding has over 10,000 total miles on that swingarm and about 6000 miles with the current 5404. Not one single problem has me or my dad had with this design. Granted, we don't use the regen braking as we both have also experience axle nuts loosening due to the minute play there is in the torque block and drop spacing during regen braking. But I can also tell you that regen braking has also loosend up clamping dropouts on one of the DIY bikes to the point where the rider stripped out the clamping block trying to tighten that thing down. Point is, a little mechanical sympathy and riding style adjustment is needed for trouble free operation. With exception of Mexican Batman, I haven't seen anyone as heavy as I am riding these machines over the type of crap I ride. I haven't had 1/10th the issues you have. Here is how we solve your axle problems. First, get a new axle. Use a torque wrench and don't exceed 45nm on your axle nuts. Always tighten the disk brake side axle nut first. When you tighten the disk brake side first, you rock the axle in the direction that it wants to move/rotate under power thus eliminating any freeplay between the axle flat, dropout, and torque block when you get on the throttle. And quite using regen. In fact disconnect the button. Just cause its there, it doesn't mean you got to use it. After your first ride, recheck your torque on the axle nuts. They will have loosned slightly so bring them back up to 45nm. Then as long as you don't use regen, they will not come loose and take a set until you remove the wheel. Before you say "I should be allowed to use regen because it came that way" Look at this way, just because my truck redlines at 6000 RPM, it doesn't mean I have to rev it to the limit and drive around in 1st gear when I can shift to 4th gear and do it at 1800 rpm driving around. If I did that, If I left it in 1st, my gas mileage would sink like the Titanic and I would blow the motor eventually. Like I said, not trying to argue with you, but your axle loosening problems can be resolved.
Rix, I think your situation doesn't really apply to me as for one your high mileage is on your Bomber...which is a Bomber...not a Fighter, so the axle diameter is different. I believe the small axle on the HS40xx motors is one of the key contributing factors into all these issues. There just isn't enough meat on the things for the design used on the Fighters drop-outs if Regen is going to be used IMO. A correct design would factor in the small axle of the HS40xx motors or use a different axle.
Also, you say you don't use Regen on either bike...I think if I hadn't used Regen I wouldn't have half the issues I'm now seeing, but that's not the point...these bikes were marketed, and sold with Regen...the design should also allow it. For me Regen is essential, both for the extra range it gives and the great braking effect...I will do everything I can to keep it as an option.

1abv said:
gud luck dewd…And nice road side repair! I'm officially adding a big ass wrench to my backpack tool kit….
LOL at least I have had that benefit in posting. :lol:
I've been carrying a small spanner big enough for the 1/2" nuts for some time now. I'm so glad I did on this occasion or we wouldn't have been able to loosen off the nuts to get the wheel back on.
I'm also glad I had that tape and some zip ties...when the wheel fell off it popped off all the zip ties holding the cable on, so we had to secure it back on afterwards, although I didn't have enough zip ties to do the job...hence the tape.

remf said:
CD haven’t you modified your Fighter massively including adding an Adaptto controller, high voltage pack and a derailleur? The Adaptto & high voltage alone could be the reason for your issues. More power, more powerful regen. With such a powerful bike, you need to pay even closer attention to proper maintenance. How long have you had your bike? 4 years or more? That’s considerable wear & tear with such power over that timeframe.
I can see why you would be confused remf...I'm chopping and changing my set-up a lot lately. My Adaptto hasn't yet run the bike for more than a few laps around the back yard. It was just repaired under warranty and just arrived back to me last week...haven't re-mounted it yet. It's a Mini-E though, so not really more power than the stock set-up...just more efficient and silent. :D
Right now, and yesterday when this accident occurred, the bike was essentially a stock set-up. Stock 16S LifeP04 pack, 18Fet Infineon (limited to 50A), HS4080. The only exception was the forced air cooling fan mod to the motor which bares no relevance to this issue.
Yes, I've (briefly) run higher power (5KW) previously, but I nearly smoked my HS4065 doing it, so it didn't last long. The dropout/axle issues occurred way before any of that anyway.

remf said:
Also I don’t think regen was available then…did you install it yourself? You certainly seem to be having a LOT of issues especially with axle stripping. I haven’t had that issue since the installation of the torque clamp and have always tightened brake side first with 45 Nm as Rick says.
Wrong. Mine was one of the first to come stock with Regen at the very end of 2011.

remf said:
With the greatest respect, apart from the huge mods, this suggests that maybe you’re doing something wrong. I hardly ever have to think about making any adjustments but I still do a preflight before every ride. Very puzzling that you’ve had this many problems. I really don’t believe this has anything to do with design. If it is a design issue then why does it seem to be just your bike? I’ve never seen or heard of a wheel falling off before and can’t see how you can, in all seriousness, blame Stealth.
Appreciate the 'great respect', but I think you are wrong here. Read Rix post just above...he can't use Regen any more because he had axle rotation issues. I know that you've been following this thread for a long time Remf...surely you remember all the other people with axle rotation issues...it's not just me!

Rix said:
CD, I was waiting for you to report back on this, did this not work or what? I was hoping the heat shrink would have worked. :?
LOL :lol: My apologies for never following up on that...it didn't work. The forces at play are way too much for heat shrink to do anything. It just crushed/cut and didn't do anything really. As you can see though...I've been trying different things to address this issue for a while, but so far nothing has worked.
I've now tried so many things to address this issue I've lost count...that's why I'm saying I think it's the design. I'm happy for that to just be my opinion if that's all it is...but it's mine to share and up to others if they want to listen or not.

Hyena said:
Yeah I'm with the others here CD.
So yeah, as per above...think I've addressed everything you've mentioned already, so I won't rehash it.

Anyway...on another note. I still think Stealth bikes are great...when they work...and this is the short video of what Conrad (kiwiev) and I got up to before my rear wheel fell off. Enjoy. :)
[youtube]-PGOnC_7bJA[/youtube]

Cheers
 
CD,

I just wiggle the axle and stuff the most in that I could. My axle never came loose nor did my axle nut. I did and always do use blue loc tite just to be on the safe side.

Might help in your case and definitely couldn't hurt.

Good luck.

Tom
 
Hey guys go easy I was right beside CD the whole ride and Jay there was no noise or warning!

And it wasn't even steep or fast, and he was taking it easy for me. But there should be a recess in the dropouts for the torque plates so if the nuts go loose it still can't go rearwards until the nuts are really loose by that time you would feel it imo.

Btw I like the fighter it rides nice :D

Cheers Kiwiev
 
I used to think you couldn't use regen without causing the axle to loosen, even with the torque clamp. I was following Rix's axle tightening sequence, but it was still coming loose.

I discovered what I was doing wrong was using a small allen wrench to tighten the bolt on the torque clamp. You can't get enough torque on the clamp bolt by hand with a little 6 inch allen wrench. You need at least 15 ft lbs on the bolt, but most people won't be able to get more than about 12 ft lbs by hand. The solution is to use a torque wrench, because 15ft lb is close to the maximum amount you can put on the clamp without stripping it out.

Even after tightening it all down properly the right side axle bolt will stay tight, but the left side axle bolt will loosen a little over time, but not nearly like before, and it isn't really a problem if you check it every week of so. I think the axle probably flexes slightly which allows the right axle nut to eventually loosen a little.

Striping the axle is a different story. You strip your axle when you over tighten the axle bolts trying to stop them from coming loose. Thou shalt not tighten axle bolts more than 30 ft lbs of torque, or may lightening bolts rain down from the heavens on yo head. :D


 
Hyena said:
Yeah I'm with the others here CD.


Rix said:
CD, I was waiting for you to report back on this, did this not work or what? I was hoping the heat shrink would have worked
Rix, you've made alot of helpful posts for stealth owners and other ES members, especially with your wealth of experience on motorcycle rim conversions. But I think this post is your finest ES contribution to date :mrgreen:

I agree, this is one of my finest comments to date so far. Actually, I was reading the forum and taking a swig of beer. When I read this, the beer came flying out my nose and my eyes are watering like crazy now. :lol:
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Well, it seems I've hit a nerve or something with my previous comments. I was pretty pissed off at the whole situation yesterday so may have pointed the blame finger too harshly in Stealth's direction. I apologise if it seemed like I was twisting the truth at all.
It is still my opinion however that the design leaves a lot to be desired. I do also recognise that my situation is far from perfect and I have made a few mistakes myself along the way. Mainly that's over-tightening the axle nuts...it was the quick and 'easy' solution to the rotation issue...but clearly a mistake.

Rix said:
CD, not trying to pick an online argument here, but my Bomber that my dad is currently riding has over 10,000 total miles on that swingarm and about 6000 miles with the current 5404. Not one single problem has me or my dad had with this design. Granted, we don't use the regen braking as we both have also experience axle nuts loosening due to the minute play there is in the torque block and drop spacing during regen braking. But I can also tell you that regen braking has also loosend up clamping dropouts on one of the DIY bikes to the point where the rider stripped out the clamping block trying to tighten that thing down. Point is, a little mechanical sympathy and riding style adjustment is needed for trouble free operation. With exception of Mexican Batman, I haven't seen anyone as heavy as I am riding these machines over the type of crap I ride. I haven't had 1/10th the issues you have. Here is how we solve your axle problems. First, get a new axle. Use a torque wrench and don't exceed 45nm on your axle nuts. Always tighten the disk brake side axle nut first. When you tighten the disk brake side first, you rock the axle in the direction that it wants to move/rotate under power thus eliminating any freeplay between the axle flat, dropout, and torque block when you get on the throttle. And quite using regen. In fact disconnect the button. Just cause its there, it doesn't mean you got to use it. After your first ride, recheck your torque on the axle nuts. They will have loosned slightly so bring them back up to 45nm. Then as long as you don't use regen, they will not come loose and take a set until you remove the wheel. Before you say "I should be allowed to use regen because it came that way" Look at this way, just because my truck redlines at 6000 RPM, it doesn't mean I have to rev it to the limit and drive around in 1st gear when I can shift to 4th gear and do it at 1800 rpm driving around. If I did that, If I left it in 1st, my gas mileage would sink like the Titanic and I would blow the motor eventually. Like I said, not trying to argue with you, but your axle loosening problems can be resolved.
Rix, I think your situation doesn't really apply to me as for one your high mileage is on your Bomber...which is a Bomber...not a Fighter, so the axle diameter is different. I believe the small axle on the HS40xx motors is one of the key contributing factors into all these issues. There just isn't enough meat on the things for the design used on the Fighters drop-outs if Regen is going to be used IMO. A correct design would factor in the small axle of the HS40xx motors or use a different axle.
Also, you say you don't use Regen on either bike...I think if I hadn't used Regen I wouldn't have half the issues I'm now seeing, but that's not the point...these bikes were marketed, and sold with Regen...the design should also allow it. For me Regen is essential, both for the extra range it gives and the great braking effect...I will do everything I can to keep it as an option.


Cheers

Yah, CD, you are correct, my Bomber has a 10mmx14mm axle vs my Fighter's 4080 10mm X 12.52mm axle. I do have 1200 miles or about 2000km on the Fighter though and no problems with the axle. Those are mostly hard offroad miles also with no problems. Still, that's not 6000km like you have.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
My apologies for never following up on that...it didn't work. The forces at play are way too much for heat shrink to do anything. It just crushed/cut and didn't do anything really
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLTefzlx1i4

[youtube]fLTefzlx1i4[/youtube]

That was what was so funny about Rix's post - of course it wasn't going to work. You missed his sarcasm. And I do apologise for making you spill your beer Rix :lol:

The feeler gauge thing does work though, I did a similar thing when I snapped an axle at the hunter EV festival this time last year. I should point out that it was a thicker crown axle that snapped too. It was a problem in the regen settings in the controller that caused it - with regen kicking in with full force every time I backed off only to then release a split second later. The result of this 12kw shunt back and forth every few seconds was to quickly wiggle the axle loose and a few laps later it spread the drop out then snapped. I didnt have another replacement crown on hand but did have a H40. I wasn't super confident with the smaller axle after breaking a larger one but after hammering in a small shim between the axle and the chewed dropout stopped any movement. Obviously shoving 12kw into a little H40 under race conditions was a recipe for smoke but the axle was fine.

Loose lips sink ships
Loose axles pwn hub motors
Confucius 2.0

:wink:
 
Meh, I got the sarcasm...just ignored it. :pancake:
At least you'll believe me now when I say I've tried everything... :lol:

Except the feeler gauge...I'll have to try that if I continue having issues with the 16mm axle on the Leaf Motor, but I doubt I will.

Anyway, I've over debating this now...I think the design sucks...most of you guy's don't...lets leave it at that shall we. 8)

I'm hoping the combination of the Light weight leaf motor, light weight Adaptto Mini-E controller and, later on a light weight/high capacity 18650 pack, should make my Fighter a light weight/ long range weapon. :D

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
At least you'll believe me now when I say I've tried everything... :lol:
I haven't seen you pull out a pack of chewing gum yet :p
I did have to laugh at your video and pouring water on the motor. Most cyclists get to the top of a steep climb and reach for the drink bottle. Ebikers do the same, but we give our motors a drink instead :lol:

the feeler gauge...I'll have to try that if I continue having issues with the 16mm axle on the Leaf Motor, but I doubt I will.
Keep in mind that once the axle slot is damaged fitting a brand new motor won't solve the issue and if there's any play at all that allows the axle to rock on regen it will chew out even worse and/or break the stronger axle. Pendragon fitted a strong custom made aftermarket axle to his motor and it still broke, because he hadn't addressed the original issue. You may need a combination of shimming the axle and this new motor. Or ideally have new thick laser cut torque plates made to fit the 16mm axle. Maybe even get them cut to 15.9mm and then file down the last little poofteenth so you get a precise fit around the axle.
 
Hyena said:
Cowardlyduck said:
My apologies for never following up on that...it didn't work. The forces at play are way too much for heat shrink to do anything. It just crushed/cut and didn't do anything really
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLTefzlx1i4

[youtube]fLTefzlx1i4[/youtube]

That was what was so funny about Rix's post - of course it wasn't going to work. You missed his sarcasm. And I do apologise for making you spill your beer Rix :lol:

The feeler gauge thing does work though, I did a similar thing when I snapped an axle at the hunter EV festival this time last year. I should point out that it was a thicker crown axle that snapped too. It was a problem in the regen settings in the controller that caused it - with regen kicking in with full force every time I backed off only to then release a split second later. The result of this 12kw shunt back and forth every few seconds was to quickly wiggle the axle loose and a few laps later it spread the drop out then snapped. I didnt have another replacement crown on hand but did have a H40. I wasn't super confident with the smaller axle after breaking a larger one but after hammering in a small shim between the axle and the chewed dropout stopped any movement. Obviously shoving 12kw into a little H40 under race conditions was a recipe for smoke but the axle was fine.

Loose lips sink ships
Loose axles pwn hub motors
Confucius 2.0

:wink:

Jay, I am trying to keep it tight now... and failing. Don't you realize there are people wearing suits and sitting in offices and not trying to spit their coffee out their nose? For me, its beer, and failing miserably. :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Rix said:
For me, its beer

Me too...bit early and at work on a Monday over here so it'll have to wait till later in the week but I've discovered high quality beer...American IPA is the best. Only 1 or 2 Australian hops beverages come close.

That meme is very unkind lol
 
Remf, what the name of the American IPA you be partaking it after work? Did I mention that working on Ebikes while consuming your favorite adult beverage go hand in hand?
 
Rix said:
Remf, what the name of the American IPA you be partaking it after work? Did I mention that working on Ebikes while consuming your favorite adult beverage go hand in hand?

I think you have mentioned that but worthwhile repeating!
Expensive & very hard to find American IPA: Ballast Point Sculpin
Pricey but better value & relatively easy to find: Ballast Point Big Eye
Pricey Aus IPA's: Feral Hop Hog, Mash Copycat
Better value quality Aus IPA: ???
 
Hyena said:
Keep in mind that once the axle slot is damaged fitting a brand new motor won't solve the issue and if there's any play at all that allows the axle to rock on regen it will chew out even worse and/or break the stronger axle.

Theodore Voltaire said:
I discovered what I was doing wrong was using a small allen wrench to tighten the bolt on the torque clamp. You can't get enough torque on the clamp bolt by hand with a little 6 inch allen wrench. You need at least 15 ft lbs on the bolt, but most people won't be able to get more than about 12 ft lbs by hand. The solution is to use a torque wrench, because 15ft lb is close to the maximum amount you can put on the clamp without stripping it out.

Even after tightening it all down properly the right side axle bolt will stay tight, but the left side axle bolt will loosen a little over time, but not nearly like before, and it isn't really a problem if you check it every week of so. I think the axle probably flexes slightly which allows the right axle nut to eventually loosen a little.

Striping the axle is a different story. You strip your axle when you over tighten the axle bolts trying to stop them from coming loose. Thou shalt not tighten axle bolts more than 30 ft lbs of torque, or may lightening bolts rain down from the heavens on yo head.
Hyena said:
Regen is well documented to be hard on axles and loosen nuts if not properly checked and tensioned and you set out knowing yours was damaged and used it anyway. If it ripped off the bike like that it was either so badly damaged you shouldn't have even considered taking it out and/or you would have felt it clunking and rocking around prior to that.


1abv said:
Anytime I take off any nylock nut I replace it with a new one.

1abv said:
I use regen but only on paved downhills never in dirt

Rix said:
Use a torque wrench and don't exceed 45nm on your axle nuts. Always tighten the disk brake side axle nut first. When you tighten the disk brake side first, you rock the axle in the direction that it wants to move/rotate under power thus eliminating any freeplay between the axle flat, dropout, and torque block when you get on the throttle.

fsmuggen said:
Stupid to risk the hubmotor falling off at high speeds.
If it falls off..., it might be the one and only time...

Stand out advice...I mean it when I say good luck CD! Hopefully we can read about some positive stuff soon.

BTW
If the drop-out design is so splendid, why does it need the clamping block added?
The dropout was designed prior to the implementation of regen. The torque clamp/block permanently solved these regen issues for me on both the Bomber and Fighter.
 
Correct, some good advice in there...and I am listening, thanks guy's...I'll just ignore the other stuff. :roll:

remf said:
The dropout was designed prior to the implementation of regen. The torque clamp/block permanently solved these regen issues for me on both the Bomber and Fighter.
It's great that the clamp solved the issue for you and others, but it didn't solve it for me...and others also.
In my opinion...I'll repeat in the hopes of not getting shot, again...IN MY OPINION when Stealth introduced Regen, they should have redesigned the dropouts.
I fail to see why a clamp could not be added to the tail end of the horizontal dropouts. That would allow movement for chain tension, and also add the benefit of a clamp.

I've still got the original torque blocks supplied with my Fighter. They have almost no wear and the slots are 14mm for the Bomber. I think I should be able to DYI grind them out 1mm on each side to accommodate the 16mm axle of my new motor and make the flats super tight. :D

Cheers
 
Interesting discovery for a new Central Coast NSW riding venue over the last little while, an unused Xtreme Sports park, where 66% of the lines are Black (stupid level of difficulty for most riders). Did a brief writeup of some of the downsides of its design at http://store.quietrush.com.au/blog/design-riding-experiences-for-delight but for those inclined, it could be quite something with a bit of a redesign and some active maintenance. Sample image is below:
1455264_orig.png


Body protection is a must have. The jump faces and landings are all bitumenised.
584072.jpg


Just starting discussions with local council and community about activation/reinvigoration. So much injury potential within it in its current format though.
 
Rix said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
One thing that's really boring about a Bomber is they never need much maintenance. When it's cold out there's nothing to do.

I guess I could braid my streamers.

Well, you could braid your streamers, or you can take a hot bath, fart in the bath water, and bite at the bubbles. Should be equally entertaining.
Hey Rix, I think this is your best comment/advise you have presented the Stealth world with so far. All the other mechanical issues seem pretty straight forward to me :lol: :lol:
 
remf said:
That meme is very unkind lol
Yeah that Rix guy, what an asshole :lol:
Alright enough ruffling ducky's feathers :p

QuietRush said:
Interesting discovery for a new Central Coast NSW riding venue over the last little while, an unused Xtreme Sports park, where 66% of the lines are Black (stupid level of difficulty for most riders)
Interesting find QR! As you suggested though in its current state it's asking for trouble. I reckon the go kart tracks are the way to go if only there was a way to hire them economically with some sort of an injury liability waiver in place so no one could try and sue anyone if they came off. People of any skill level could then participate as you could elect to ride as slow as necessary to be in your in comfort zone.
 
Hey guys, on a completely unrelated issue saw this on the news tonight and it was just so effing awesome I just had to share it. What a champ! Its a shame electricity and water hate each other or we could have a new sport :cry:
[youtube]lDi9uFcD7XI[/youtube]
 
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