E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hyena said:
Interesting find QR! As you suggested though in its current state it's asking for trouble. I reckon the go kart tracks are the way to go if only there was a way to hire them economically with some sort of an injury liability waiver in place so no one could try and sue anyone if they came off. People of any skill level could then participate as you could elect to ride as slow as necessary to be in your in comfort zone.
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Meh. The GoKart tracks are fun, there's no doubt about that, but I do like the thought of some super-motard style track challenges in there, couple of sweeping loose corners, a tame tabletop or flip-flop turns and some berms to rail or brake turn and accelerate out of for some line blocking. Makes it easier to then compete against things like the Uni of Newcastle when they turn up again on an EV'd Aprilia RS125 chassis, helps level the playing field a little more. The grey matter is turning over on what an ideal track format might look like though, including A and B lines..
 
QMS said:
Rix said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
One thing that's really boring about a Bomber is they never need much maintenance. When it's cold out there's nothing to do.

I guess I could braid my streamers.
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Well, you could braid your streamers, or you can take a hot bath, fart in the bath water, and bite at the bubbles. Should be equally entertaining.
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Hey Rix, I think this is your best comment/advise you have presented the Stealth world with so far. All the other mechanical issues seem pretty straight forward to me :lol: :lol:
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Oh man, If forgot about that one, TV what did you end up doing?
 
QMS said:
Hey guys, on a completely unrelated issue saw this on the news tonight and it was just so effing awesome I just had to share it. What a champ! Its a shame electricity and water hate each other or we could have a new sport :cry:
[youtube]lDi9uFcD7XI[/youtube]
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This guy has balls that clank! Undoubtedly the coolest thing I have seen in a long time. Makes me want to go out and get a KTmSX250 and put this kit on it. Man that was cool.
 
remf said:
Rix said:
Remf, what the name of the American IPA you be partaking it after work? Did I mention that working on Ebikes while consuming your favorite adult beverage go hand in hand?
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I think you have mentioned that but worthwhile repeating!
Expensive & very hard to find American IPA: Ballast Point Sculpin
Pricey but better value & relatively easy to find: Ballast Point Big Eye
Pricey Aus IPA's: Feral Hop Hog, Mash Copycat
Better value quality Aus IPA: ???
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I guess we just call them IPA's here. Ballast Point is pretty good. Isn't there micro breweries in Australia? I drink Fosters once in a while, whenever I can find it on tap. It okay for a hot weather beer.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Correct, some good advice in there...and I am listening, thanks guy's...I'll just ignore the other stuff. :roll:

remf said:
The dropout was designed prior to the implementation of regen. The torque clamp/block permanently solved these regen issues for me on both the Bomber and Fighter.
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It's great that the clamp solved the issue for you and others, but it didn't solve it for me...and others also.
In my opinion...I'll repeat in the hopes of not getting shot, again...IN MY OPINION when Stealth introduced Regen, they should have redesigned the dropouts.
I fail to see why a clamp could not be added to the tail end of the horizontal dropouts. That would allow movement for chain tension, and also add the benefit of a clamp.

I've still got the original torque blocks supplied with my Fighter. They have almost no wear and the slots are 14mm for the Bomber. I think I should be able to DYI grind them out 1mm on each side to accommodate the 16mm axle of my new motor and make the flats super tight. :D

Cheers
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So you are going to go with a bigger axle then? I think that's the best option. In all seriousness, I still wouldn't use the regen though. Its neat stealth has the option for us to recharge out battery, which is actually a selling point for some, but when you consider how much energy you get out of regen, I don't think its worth it. A few years back, there was this guy that won the ebike class on Pikes Peak. He had a homebuilt set up with regen. Well on his way down the hill, talking like 19 miles or about 31km, he regened the whole way. He put almost 100wh back into his battery. That's it. I think my dad said it best, electric motors make shitty alternators/generators and alternators/generators make shitty electric motors.
 
I've passed 6000 miles on my bike now, and it's still running great. My battery is down to 17.5 ah, but I've gotten so good at riding it I haven't really lost any range.
 
QR, the gokart track thing I was more referring to absolute safety and ease of access - they're already there and anyone can ride with any skill level.
But your plans sound good! If you can make it happen you know I'll be on the starting line :)

That Robbie Maddison vis is the shiz!
I was toying around with repurposing an old hub motor wheel to power my kayak as an e-paddle steamer of sorts, but obviously that is wacky and this is straight up cool.


Rix said:
Isn't there micro breweries in Australia?
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Is the pope catholic ? :p
I drink Fosters once in a while, whenever I can find it on tap. It okay for a hot weather beer.
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Urgh, it's one of the great misconceptions of the world that Fosters is a good Australian beer. It's more that it's a well known Aussie beer, kinda like what Bud is to the US. Only most Aussie's don't actually drink Fosters :lol:
 
Rix said:
So you are going to go with a bigger axle then? I think that's the best option. In all seriousness, I still wouldn't use the regen though.
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Yeah, bigger axle...16mm, so even bigger than the Bomber axle. :mrgreen:

I've also ordered the axle at a total length of 250mm, so about 15mm extra length each side of the torque blocks. My thinking is I should be able to add extra measures like nordlock washers, a Torque arm, etc, and Regen should still be possible.

Like I said...I will do anything to keep Regen. I just love it too much.

Also, with the Adaptto, I've set it up with a variable voltage Hall sensor and a magnet on the brake lever. That way, Regen is progressive and doesn't kick in at max torque like with the button.

Cheers
 
Hyena said:
Rix said:
Isn't there micro breweries in Australia?
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Is the pope catholic ? :p
I drink Fosters once in a while, whenever I can find it on tap. It okay for a hot weather beer.
Click to expand...
Urgh, it's one of the great misconceptions of the world that Fosters is a good Australian beer. It's more that it's a well known Aussie beer, kinda like what Bud is to the US. Only most Aussie's don't actually drink Fosters :lol:
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Un equivocally beyond a shadow of doubt, Fosters in better than Bud, Coors, Hams, miller, Keystone, Olympia, Old Milwaukee, basically all of the old school shitwater we called beer back in the 70s and 80s, by a margin I might add. I figured there were microbreweries down under, just haven't heard about them.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Rix said:
So you are going to go with a bigger axle then? I think that's the best option. In all seriousness, I still wouldn't use the regen though.
Click to expand...
Yeah, bigger axle...16mm, so even bigger than the Bomber axle. :mrgreen:

I've also ordered the axle at a total length of 250mm, so about 15mm extra length each side of the torque blocks. My thinking is I should be able to add extra measures like nordlock washers, a Torque arm, etc, and Regen should still be possible.

Like I said...I will do anything to keep Regen. I just love it too much.

Also, with the Adaptto, I've set it up with a variable voltage Hall sensor and a magnet on the brake lever. That way, Regen is progressive and doesn't kick in at max torque like with the button.

Cheers
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I do admire your tenacity for wanting to make regen work for you, between the ramp programing on you mini, the axle and nordlock washers, you should succeed at it for certain this time.
 
Rix said:
QMS said:
Hey guys, on a completely unrelated issue saw this on the news tonight and it was just so effing awesome I just had to share it. What a champ! Its a shame electricity and water hate each other or we could have a new sport :cry:

This guy has balls that clank! Undoubtedly the coolest thing I have seen in a long time. Makes me want to go out and get a KTmSX250 and put this kit on it. Man that was cool.
Click to expand...
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Hey Rix, its funny how conversations go from extreme motorsports straight back to beer. I don't know of a single Aussie that has consumed a Fosters in his lifetime. On the microbrewery point, we have thousands of them and as I feel I'm a bit of an expert in this area (from a consumption perspective) excluding some Irish & Mexican beer, I think we have some of the best in the world eg; James Squire, Boags (old school Coopers), and good ol Crown lager.
As for Robbie Maddison he has the biggest klankers I've seen for a while too.
 
QMS said:
Rix said:
QMS said:
Hey guys, on a completely unrelated issue saw this on the news tonight and it was just so effing awesome I just had to share it. What a champ! Its a shame electricity and water hate each other or we could have a new sport :cry:

This guy has balls that clank! Undoubtedly the coolest thing I have seen in a long time. Makes me want to go out and get a KTmSX250 and put this kit on it. Man that was cool.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Hey Rix, its funny how conversations go from extreme motorsports straight back to beer. I don't know of a single Aussie that has consumed a Fosters in his lifetime. On the microbrewery point, we have thousands of them and as I feel I'm a bit of an expert in this area (from a consumption perspective) excluding some Irish & Mexican beer, I think we have some of the best in the world eg; James Squire, Boags (old school Coopers), and good ol Crown lager.
As for Robbie Maddison he has the biggest klankers I've seen for a while too.
Click to expand...

I enjoy microbrew aka craft brew beer almost as much as I enjoy, my Fighter. No quite though. Just because one drinks beer doesn't mean one will have a Stealth Ebike in their stable, but if one has a Stealth Ebike in their stable, they will always have access to good beer. This is a universal fact. From the consumption perspective, I know a good beer when I chug one :lol: I have had coopers before, it was dark, cant remember if it was a stout or porter though. I only like 5 beers though. Lagers, Pilsners, Ales, Stouts and Porters. That's it. You are right, it is funny how conversations go from extreme motor sports to beer, back and forth no less.
 
A new peddle arm arrived in the post today from Evobikes.co.uk
and just need to swop the peddle over and find that 8mm key and replace arm

thx
steve
 
Dont forget to pregrease the spindle and torque the hell out of it. Ideally with a length of tube over a tee handled hexkey.
 
Samd said:
Dont forget to pregrease the spindle and torque the hell out of it. Ideally with a length of tube over a tee handled hexkey.
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thx mate and i will take it to the bike shop in an hour and tell them
 
Just took off the wheel and pulled apart the motor to inspect the damage from it falling off.
Not as bad as I expected...
DSC_2269.jpg

DSC_2271.jpg

I think the electric motor varnish (red paint) I also applied inside the axle channel definitely helped in this instance...and the very reason I put it there was in case anything ever happened to the wires like this. I'm almost certain the motor would have self shorted on those phase wires inside the axle if the varnish wasn't on there. :)

It also occurred to me...how many other powered bicycles or motor bikes could have a wheel and motor fall off, with 'fuel lines'/wires severed and still be able to ride home? Not many IMO.

As much as I don't like certain aspects of the design, I still think the Stealth's are pretty good at surviving the worst that gets thrown at them and I'm still glad I bought my Fighter. :D

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
I think the electric motor varnish (red paint) I also applied inside the axle channel definitely helped in this instance...and the very reason I put it there was in case anything ever happened to the wires like this. I'm almost certain the motor would have self shorted on those phase wires inside the axle if the varnish wasn't on there
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Looks like an easy enough fix to repair those wires but don't rely on paint alone, always use heatshrink

Trollface-120x134.jpg



It also occurred to me...how many other powered bicycles or motor bikes could have a wheel and motor fall off, with 'fuel lines'/wires severed and still be able to ride home? Not many IMO.
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that's the beauty of hub motors, unless the phase wires short inside the motor you can always pedal home if a from an electrical failure.
 
Hyena said:
Looks like an easy enough fix to repair those wires but don't rely on paint alone, always use heatshrink
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I'll have to replaced the whole wire length, since any increased diameter from solder joints inside the axle will mean it won't fit any more, but yeah...easy enough to fix. :)

The hard part (still) is the axle...any idea's on what can be done there? Best bet would be to replace it, but I don't have access to the right tools. Kiwiev and I recently tried removing a good axle from another HS40 motor to swap over to this one, but our attempts just resulted in that axle bending. :(

I guess another option would be to weld over the threads and re-cut new threads...good idea/ bad idea???

Cheers
 
Considering the threads are damaged, you really don't have any choice but to replace the axle. If you set the job up in a proper press, the shaft will come out. Unfortunately it needs to be done in a machine shop so it is going to cost.

I have seen Stealth replace shafts heaps of times. You could ask JK to do it for you and at the same time offer him some advice on how to re design his dropouts :mrgreen:
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Best bet would be to replace it, but I don't have access to the right tools. Kiwiev and I recently tried removing a good axle from another HS40 motor to swap over to this one, but our attempts just resulted in that axle bending. :(
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He must have been pressing against something immovable. The axle WILL slide out if done properly. I can't remember if the H40s have a shoulder on one side but if so then obviously pushing from the wrong side will result in the above.

I guess another option would be to weld over the threads and re-cut new threads...good idea/ bad idea???
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It's doable, and I guess you've got nothing to lose but I personally wouldn't go down that road when replacement axles are available.
I have a smoked H40 stator here with a good axle (only been used for 6 minutes :lol: ) if you want to press that out and replace it.
$50 and it's yours, and you get a free stator to hang on your garage wall as a decoration :p As Kepler said take it to a machine shop or similar and they'll have it swapped over in 10 mins.
Or I can give you the details of the guy who made up the sweet 16mm axle I now have in my crown motor. You could send him your whole stator and he'll return it with the new axle and you just need to sort out the wiring, but that option will cost you significantly more.


Kepler said:
I have seen Stealth replace shafts heaps of times. You could ask JK to do it for you and at the same time offer him some advice on how to re design his dropouts
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LOL, I imagine CD might leave the place waddling like a duck if JK was given the option of how to dispose of the old axle... :lol:
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Hyena said:
Looks like an easy enough fix to repair those wires but don't rely on paint alone, always use heatshrink
Click to expand...
I'll have to replaced the whole wire length, since any increased diameter from solder joints inside the axle will mean it won't fit any more, but yeah...easy enough to fix. :)

The hard part (still) is the axle...any idea's on what can be done there? Best bet would be to replace it, but I don't have access to the right tools. Kiwiev and I recently tried removing a good axle from another HS40 motor to swap over to this one, but our attempts just resulted in that axle bending. :(

I guess another option would be to weld over the threads and re-cut new threads...good idea/ bad idea???

Cheers
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So here is the issue with welding, Do you know if your axle has a high carbon content? If it is, and you weld and re tap the threads you may soften the axle to the point that it will bend and twist distort easily. Cool carbon steel down two quickly, and it will be so brittle that you could hit it with something hard and the axle would shatter. I know our axles are made of steel, but I don't know what kind of steel. Anytime you weld on steel, the material will heat temper. Back in the 90s, I was a welder for American Trailer manufacturing and did it for years. I was certified in mig, (gas and flux core) arc and oxy/ace. So my first advice is don't do this, get a new axle. Bigger and better. That said, if you go a head and weld your axle, this is how you should go about it. On each thread face, run two passes, stagered and overlapping in the center, that's a total of 8 passes, and cool each pass with some used motor oil in a spray bottle. Spraying oil doesn't cool as quickly as a water quenching so you may get lucky without tempering the axle to much. After the passes, hand file that down to as round as you can get it and then run your tap. Like I said, I would not do this, at best its a band aid repair and your axle will not tolerate very many tightening and loosening before that threads go to shit.
 
Thanks Guy's.

I think I'll sit on it for now :shock: :p ...no not the axle. :lol: Just the idea's of what to do. :lol:
As I mentioned, I've already ordered a new motor (Leaf motor with 16mm axle) that I will also modify for forced cooling like I did this one.

Once I'm back up and running with my new motor I will look at what I want do about the old (HS4080) motor. It sounds/seems like the best bet is a new axle, but I'm just not convinced it's worth the hassle and cost at this stage.

I might just sell it after repairing the wires since it's still in working order...just needs a new axle.

Cheers
 
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