Doctorbass 2WD ADAPTTO / NYX / MXUS 32kW 105 pounds
- Thread starter Doctorbass
- Start date
Doctorbass
100 GW
Yeah cooling the motor is definitivly a must! it will improove performance i'm sure. since the motor critical parts are now perfectly sealed i can splash water form a hose directly to it to cool it down.. and even if the hall begin to make free games due to internal short dur to water, I can go sensorless, make the motor to warm a bit and evaporate water! But No2 is also a great solution.
Here is the best theoric match to the realistic graph simulation of the actual 1WD 5403: 12.3kW 338A phase 143 batt.. but as well that simulator does not calculate the torque gain made by the flux weakening witch improve the speed curve by about 25 real km/h.
I also attached a comparison between the 5403 and teh MXUS 3T. This will be a HUGE improovement! for the rear motor!
Doc
Here is the best theoric match to the realistic graph simulation of the actual 1WD 5403: 12.3kW 338A phase 143 batt.. but as well that simulator does not calculate the torque gain made by the flux weakening witch improve the speed curve by about 25 real km/h.
I also attached a comparison between the 5403 and teh MXUS 3T. This will be a HUGE improovement! for the rear motor!
Doc
Attachments
skWarDog
100 W
Doc, have you ever considered using a proper Dip & Bake product that completely fills in the gaps between the magnet wires to prevent vibration wear shorts, give you much better cooling and water resistance? If your have an old oven to preheat and post-bake your motor, it's way better than any air dry insulator. I use a mil-spec dip & bake with outstanding results, but there are plenty of commercial grade products available, such as:Doctorbass said:
http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/product_selection.html?p=insulating_resins_guides
Big fan your work, Kick-Ass my brother!
Doctorbass
100 GW
Here is the link to the post with the Drag Racing Video of the event of this weekend!!:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=71791
Doc
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=71791
Doc
Doctorbass
100 GW
OK i finally got my custom FRONT suspension motor axel finished!
The Stark & Bros machining shop here dis awsome work! ( Will definitively include them in my next projects!)
So i got my 20mm dia Stainless Steel axel with keyway slot, hole for the axel C-clip groove and all press fit and slide fit diameter just perfect! I also asked for a larger diameter adapter like the White Brothers fork specificely have on the right side. I also installed larger I.D. ( 20mm) bearing on the side cover.
Oh btw just in case you ask, I will use the clamping force of the fork dropout as well as a big dowel pin to transfer all torque from the axel to the fork base.
Here is couple pics compare to the original axel:
The Stark & Bros machining shop here dis awsome work! ( Will definitively include them in my next projects!)
So i got my 20mm dia Stainless Steel axel with keyway slot, hole for the axel C-clip groove and all press fit and slide fit diameter just perfect! I also asked for a larger diameter adapter like the White Brothers fork specificely have on the right side. I also installed larger I.D. ( 20mm) bearing on the side cover.
Oh btw just in case you ask, I will use the clamping force of the fork dropout as well as a big dowel pin to transfer all torque from the axel to the fork base.
Here is couple pics compare to the original axel:
Attachments
macribs
10 MW
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
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- 3,702
Nice work Doc. What kind of phase wire size will you be able fit there?
Are you planning to skip regen on front wheel? Seems those who have had axle failure more often then not it snaps during regen braking. If you don't use regen up front likely it would cause less strain on the fork legs and axle clamps as well.
Damn I look forward to see the bike completed, on the drag strip and see what time & speed you get now.
Are you planning to skip regen on front wheel? Seems those who have had axle failure more often then not it snaps during regen braking. If you don't use regen up front likely it would cause less strain on the fork legs and axle clamps as well.
Damn I look forward to see the bike completed, on the drag strip and see what time & speed you get now.
Ohbse
10 kW
macribs said:
Regen loads are not going to be any different from using the disk brakes. If people are snapping forks using disk brakes I'm sure we would hear about it constantly
Assuming the clamp load is adequate I don't see any issues.Awesome work Doc. Did you get any 60' times from the 1/8th mile track? Bizzare where they built that thing considering if it was just slightly back into the nice flat valley they could have had a flat race surface and an uphill runoff!
Doctorbass
100 GW
Got some POWERFULL 100C lipo made for Drag Racing today! Thanks to John Metric from Lonestars Racing! These also have serious 8 gauge wires!
I tested one on my professional RI meter and i got 7.77miliohm... look like i'm lucky !! ( 777) lol
That's 1.3 miliohm per cell witch is about the same as the Nanotech. These are 4.5Ah cells. and John used these for their full 100C for 9 second run with the Electric Drag racing Miata!
Here are some pics from the facebook of John.
If i drive those the same way John is using for his Electric Miata, i will get 29.7kW of power out of these 4 little packs!!
I will use these to power my 2 MAX-E Adaptto at about 160A. This will draw 320A from these 1P cells! that's about 71C rate for about 10-15 sec
at 1.3 miliohm per cell that's 28.6 miliohms total for 22s pack.
At 320A that's 0.0286*320 =9.15V sag and 2928W in heat in these cells for 10 seconds = 29kJ of energy
Here are mine arrived today!
But I might order some more.
Doc
I tested one on my professional RI meter and i got 7.77miliohm... look like i'm lucky !! ( 777) lol
That's 1.3 miliohm per cell witch is about the same as the Nanotech. These are 4.5Ah cells. and John used these for their full 100C for 9 second run with the Electric Drag racing Miata!
Here are some pics from the facebook of John.
If i drive those the same way John is using for his Electric Miata, i will get 29.7kW of power out of these 4 little packs!!
I will use these to power my 2 MAX-E Adaptto at about 160A. This will draw 320A from these 1P cells! that's about 71C rate for about 10-15 sec
at 1.3 miliohm per cell that's 28.6 miliohms total for 22s pack.
At 320A that's 0.0286*320 =9.15V sag and 2928W in heat in these cells for 10 seconds = 29kJ of energy
Here are mine arrived today!
But I might order some more.
Doc
Doctorbass
100 GW
UPDATE!
I have measured the 3 other packs and guess what??!! as incredible as it appear i also got 7.77 miliohm on all 3 other packs !!!!
8) these look like to be great quality with RI so constant..
I have measured the 3 other packs and guess what??!! as incredible as it appear i also got 7.77 miliohm on all 3 other packs !!!!
8) these look like to be great quality with RI so constant..Ohbse
10 kW
They look great, pretty awesome results. You might find that the resistance will go down a little with some heat depending on the internal chemistry.
Are you going to re-terminate one of the packs to get your 20-22s?
Are you going to re-terminate one of the packs to get your 20-22s?
Doctorbass
100 GW
Ohbse said:
Yes probably i will modify one of thjese packs to go 20 or 22s... i'm still not sure if these 3T motor will be too painfull for the MAX-E... Doc
Doctorbass
100 GW
skWarDog
100 W
That came out nice, Doc! I think I'd like to do that for a 2wd build this winter...... my front controller is a Mini-E and Max-E in the rear. Any CAD drawings that you would be willing to share? Or maybe a hook-up with your machine shop to produce another?
Doctorbass
100 GW
skWarDog said:
I dont have any cad, all hand draw in a way the machinist understand lol.
But I can post these drawing soon for the 20mm front suspension motor axel
Doc
izeman
1 GW
why do you use the original silicone of the phase wires and not change it for heat shrink? those turnigy wire's silicone is very thick, and you could make the axle thinner, or the bore smaller to fit the wires in.
Doctorbass
100 GW
izeman said:
The original wires was not silicon but very thin fragile teflon gauge 16 or 14 wires. Heat shrink soften alot when hot and it become fragile .. even more fragile than the silicone skin. I can not use thicker axel. It must remain 20mm to fit the front suspension fork.
Doctorbass
100 GW
madin88 said:
Yeah you are right but i have to decide if i go for 20 or keep 22s witch make a big diff on the margin for voltage overshoot on the Fets... I guess people that used the cromotor 4T have used 20s or less..
Doc
chucho
1 kW
Liked very much so far!! Thank you for sharing 
That axel for the front motor is a very good idea 
i am very curious to see how good is going to sustain torque the part of the fork that holds it (dont know the name in english )
Loved also the pick of the packs!!
That axel for the front motor is a very good idea i am very curious to see how good is going to sustain torque the part of the fork that holds it (dont know the name in english )Loved also the pick of the packs!!
That's a lot of Lipo
Just be careful. We don't want your house to look like that place in China that blew up.
Motor's looking great. I think that axle setup will be very strong.
Is the bike going to have pedals?
Just be careful. We don't want your house to look like that place in China that blew up.
Motor's looking great. I think that axle setup will be very strong.
Is the bike going to have pedals?
adam333
1 kW
Nice project Doc =)
I am surprised that you want to attempt hi speed with such a low voltage though.
I will follow your developments.
I am surprised that you want to attempt hi speed with such a low voltage though.
I will follow your developments.
Doctorbass
100 GW
fechter said:That's a lot of Lipo
Just be careful. We don't want your house to look like that place in China that blew up.
Motor's looking great. I think that axle setup will be very strong.
Is the bike going to have pedals?
Ah haaa Yes Fechter this will remain a E-bicycle as well ! It will have pedal, handlebar and normal bicycle seat as well as bicycle and tire rim.
I want it to be the quickest true E-bicycle that does not look like motorcycle.. so that have no motorcycle parts.
I will be carefull with these Lipo, Thanks for the advice 8) ... John confirmed that These have been tested at 200C rate on a 10 second 1/4 mile motorcycle... that's just 900A per 1p !!! and they took it well ... the plastic from teh connector melted but the cells was ok.
The bike will have 22s1p first and i will order 4 more pack so it will be 22s 2p for 9Ah 82V and an amazing power of 74kW for a bit less than 10 pounds of battery!
Doc
Doc
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