E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Emmett,

thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..

Emmett said:
.. Note that you don't have to remove the front brake caliper to remove and reinstall the front wheel. Loctite the caliper bolts in place when the caliper is aligned with the rotor. Then don't disturb it. Even when changing the pads, leave the caliper mount bolts alone.

With USD-8 fork:

- Get the upper fork caps level in the triples. Don't worry about the fully extended length of each fork being different. That's because the top-out stopper is in the left leg. All fine.
- When installing the front wheel, push the axle through from the brake side first, then lift the right side lug a little so the axle pops through into position. The tighten the end cap bolts lightly, then the pinch bolts. No need to go real tight on anything. The axle or caps will never come loose. It's very important that the axle is lightly lubed before installation, so it sits square/true in the fork lugs.
- Release the air pressure out of the right (damper) leg if not riding for a week or more. That greatly reduces the chance of air leaking past the piston seal into the the damper oil. I used a dremel grinder to make more clearance around the schrader valve for easy air filling.

- check that the bushing caps are tight on the bottom of each gold alum upper tube. DNM didn't do mine up very tight at the factory.
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
Emmett,

thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..
No probs. Some loctite will work if the threads are oil free. But don't lock the treads too much else you might never get them undone when you need to disassemble either leg. I'm a big fan of loctite but didn't use any in this case. I just did them up real tight by hand using a grippy rubber glove.
 
stritzky said:
Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.

What leads you to this conclusion....

I ask as I finally got on my bike after a crazy "full throttle" stuck on incident in the wet !

I just tried the bike again tonight and works fine...but then suddenly I had a thumping effect from the rear wheel...which lead me to think perhaps I have a failing sensor as well....there are three of them righ, so if one goes there would be a thumping effect from the wheel rotating but not getting any "current" at one of the 3 cycle ?

Any Ideas ?

Dunk
 
Emmett said:
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
Emmett,

thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..
No probs. Some loctite will work if the threads are oil free. But don't lock the treads too much else you might never get them undone when you need to disassemble either leg. I'm a big fan of loctite but didn't use any in this case. I just did them up real tight by hand using a grippy rubber glove.


Emmett

Most loctite will let go with hot water poured over the part or a hot air gun.

Cheers Kiwi
 
Thanks much appreciated.

remf said:
stritzky said:
Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.

A Hall sensor tester is the easiest way, not exactly sure where I got mine...it was a while ago.


Without one of these, you'll need a multimeter and do it like this:

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf
 
Well this is the second time i have experienced this. In 3 years. The wheel spins freely, but it runs extremely jaggedly when you apply the throttle . Almost like you have a REALLY bad ball bearing. Only much worse. That leads me to think it's just one Hall sensor thats broken or burnt out. If 2 ore more goes as is what happed to me the last time. The wheel won't spin under throttle at all. It just makes a small jump and then stops mediately. Yes there are 3 of them type Honeywell SS411A for the Stealth Bomber.

DunkenKBliths said:
stritzky said:
Hi

I Belive one of my Hall sensors is toasted. How do you measure if and witch Hall Sensor is broken ? On a Stealth Bomber. Any one have any experience with this. Thanks.

What leads you to this conclusion....

I ask as I finally got on my bike after a crazy "full throttle" stuck on incident in the wet !

I just tried the bike again tonight and works fine...but then suddenly I had a thumping effect from the rear wheel...which lead me to think perhaps I have a failing sensor as well....there are three of them righ, so if one goes there would be a thumping effect from the wheel rotating but not getting any "current" at one of the 3 cycle ?

Any Ideas ?

Dunk
 
Very common tester:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=87

TV, running that fat tire at 80km/h will ruin your efficiency and oh, if you run into a pothole at same speed with that rim, you are probably toast
 
Allex said:
Very common tester:
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=87

TV, running that fat tire at 80km/h will ruin your efficiency and oh, if you run into a pothole at same speed with that rim, you are probably toast

Alex, that tire is a Hook Worm. At 35 psi the rolling resistance is less than a stock Bomber tire, and only about as wide. I found a 24 x 3 double wall rim, but they're out of stock right now. I'm waiting for them to contact me when they get more.
 
I have tried searching but no luck. What is the new functioning address for Stealth Technical Support ?
 
I am going to take the wheel off at the weekend and see if I can get the cover off on the Brake side..(as I don't think) there's any special tools required to get that off...hopefully they are visible from that side !!!

I'm hoping its just a loose one...as its intermittent !!! - not sure this gives the "FULL ON THROTTLE" issue I experienced though !

stritzky said:
I have tried searching but no luck. What is the new functioning address for Stealth Technical Support ?
 
Quigley Motorsport would like to extend its gratitude to everybody that has past on their concerns regarding our stolen demo B52 (vin #658). Our demo ride was extensively customized and hopefully this will make it obvious to all our clients and friends in the Stealth world. This theft has managed to make the local paper along with an active police investigation and we are a little bit hopeful of its recovery in some shape or form. At the risk of saturating, here is another photo if anyone missed our previous post. Again thanks to everyone.
DSC00082_zpsl3oqsnuw.jpg
 
I'm curious about the gearbox on the B52's. How fast can you get up to before you run out of Pedal power? Can you still pedal at fairly high speeds, or do they spin out pretty quickly?
 
I find that pedaling doesn't add nothing really unless u have maybe road tyres with high pressure,
Theres to much drag and weight
I find around 40mph is a good pedaling speed but u can go all out at 50 but u wont last long
Looks good to the coppers round my way so i just pedal
 
QMS said:
Quigley Motorsport would like to extend its gratitude to everybody that has past on their concerns regarding our stolen demo B52 (vin #658). Our demo ride was extensively customized and hopefully this will make it obvious to all our clients and friends in the Stealth world. This theft has managed to make the local paper along with an active police investigation and we are a little bit hopeful of its recovery in some shape or form. At the risk of saturating, here is another photo if anyone missed our previous post. Again thanks to everyone.
.jpg[/img]

I sure hope it turns up. Whats the scene like for prosecuting suspects for high dollar property crimes in Australia? Are the prosecutors aggressive down there?
 
Ottodog said:
I'm curious about the gearbox on the B52's. How fast can you get up to before you run out of Pedal power? Can you still pedal at fairly high speeds, or do they spin out pretty quickly?

Can't speak about B52 - mine is more like a B17 in terms of age - but with the 5404 motor WOT in 9th gear, I can still input power through the cranks if I limit current. Or at full power, as Jimboyr6 says, up to around 40 mph. Above 40 mph, the pedals become adjustable foot pegs. That said, it may be that pedal input above 40 mph is possible with steeper gearing via a lower tooth count freewheel.
 
Ottodog said:
I'm curious about the gearbox on the B52's. How fast can you get up to before you run out of Pedal power? Can you still pedal at fairly high speeds, or do they spin out pretty quickly?

At 50 mph the cadence is very high, but you can still keep up, and it does make a difference. You can always add about 3 mph to your top speed by pedaling, and at all speeds acceleration is faster.

Riding with my son with his Bomber next to mine, I can easily see the difference between pedaling, and not pedaling.
 
I have used the maxxis hookworm for 3500km on my fighter and it's great for street use. I will not go back to the crazybob again, they where to soft.
Think the spokes and rim is to weak for a high speed/power setup TV.
Into details: Still can't understand how I'm suppose to fit all theese cells in my fighter, feel I've done some wrong mesurements or wrong calculations..:p
samsung cellspack.jpg
 
Holly shit me thinks u have
Allex will tell u how many packs u can make out of that lot
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Ottodog said:
I'm curious about the gearbox on the B52's. How fast can you get up to before you run out of Pedal power? Can you still pedal at fairly high speeds, or do they spin out pretty quickly?

At 50 mph the cadence is very high, but you can still keep up, and it does make a difference. You can always add about 3 mph to your top speed by pedaling, and at all speeds acceleration is faster.

Riding with my son with his Bomber next to mine, I can easily see the difference between pedaling, and not pedaling.

I don't know what you mean by that.
 
fsmuggen said:
I have used the maxxis hookworm for 3500km on my fighter and it's great for street use. I will not go back to the crazybob again, they where to soft.
Think the spokes and rim is to weak for a high speed/power setup TV.
Into details: Still can't understand how I'm suppose to fit all theese cells in my fighter, feel I've done some wrong mesurements or wrong calculations..:p

Dam Muggen, you got 480 cells there. No way, you are fitting 1/3rd of that in your FIghter. I get the feeling that either you ordered with other people, got more than one ebike, or are fuqn with us :lol: :lol: With 25R cells, You could make a 14s 34p out of that, have a 58.8 V (hot) 85Ah pack, that would give you some range. I am willing to bet your volt sad under WOT would be non existent. Call it a hunch. :wink:
 
Jimboyr6 said:
Rix did u really count all of them in that pic?

Just counted the rows, 15 x 32 and with my super awesome basic multiplication skills, came up with 480. :lol: So yah, I guess I counted them all.
 
Yes yes very good, i stay quiet
Anyway that tyre i showed u on my smpro rim
U think it would b ok for onoff road stuff?
 
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