- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,903
Emmett,
thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..
thanks for mentioning this..
my dnm spring side fork leg bushing was not tight as well..
i may consider to drip in some low strength loctite on the threads there..
Emmett said:.. Note that you don't have to remove the front brake caliper to remove and reinstall the front wheel. Loctite the caliper bolts in place when the caliper is aligned with the rotor. Then don't disturb it. Even when changing the pads, leave the caliper mount bolts alone.
With USD-8 fork:
- Get the upper fork caps level in the triples. Don't worry about the fully extended length of each fork being different. That's because the top-out stopper is in the left leg. All fine.
- When installing the front wheel, push the axle through from the brake side first, then lift the right side lug a little so the axle pops through into position. The tighten the end cap bolts lightly, then the pinch bolts. No need to go real tight on anything. The axle or caps will never come loose. It's very important that the axle is lightly lubed before installation, so it sits square/true in the fork lugs.
- Release the air pressure out of the right (damper) leg if not riding for a week or more. That greatly reduces the chance of air leaking past the piston seal into the the damper oil. I used a dremel grinder to make more clearance around the schrader valve for easy air filling.
- check that the bushing caps are tight on the bottom of each gold alum upper tube. DNM didn't do mine up very tight at the factory.