Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

ridethelightning said:
yeah they are a bit clunky.

they are waterproof and durable though.

have you found any better that are more compact that do the same job?
Click to expand...
I've been using andersons and bullets for all my builds. I received these connectors on my recent battery though and just found them strange. I did not realize they are waterproof though... That's good to know, thanks.
Thanks for the other link too
 
noticed recentl that switching displays between different controllers(probably from different manufacture dates) has very odd results.
new max-e with 1year old mini-e screen =

i get -98C in mosfet temps, NO main screen, and back button wont work. :lol:
also the motor temps keep cycling between 6C and 13C :?:

when i plugged the new controller(max-e) into its own screen, its working as it should.
could this have caused my mini-e to blow, cause i mixed an old screen with a new mini-e??
 
Ok, so I was riding today and suddenly there was a clunk and the power cut out. I got home and ran autodetect which came back with "halls error 1".
I checked the voltages across my halls which were:
+5v: 4.29
Temp: 2.18
Hall 1: 4.26
Hall 2: 4.27
Hall 3: 0.00
Halls 1,2 and 3 alternated as I turned the wheel.
Any idea what to try next? I hope the problem is not internal to the motor as I cant remove the freewheel to open it.
 
Dirtech said:
Ok, so I was riding today and suddenly there was a clunk and the power cut out. I got home and ran autodetect which came back with "halls error 1".
I checked the voltages across my halls which were:
+5v: 4.29
Temp: 2.18
Hall 1: 4.26
Hall 2: 4.27
Hall 3: 0.00
Halls 1,2 and 3 alternated as I turned the wheel.
Any idea what to try next? I hope the problem is not internal to the motor as I cant remove the freewheel to open it.
Click to expand...
When I twist the throttle, the wheel locks out and will not turn freely. The wheel turns freely when the power is released. Not sure if that helps anyone identify the problem.
 
sounds like a wiring issue to me. could be a short on the phases, which i hard to tell because they always have continuity.

id be opening it up.

have you tried sensorless mode?
 
Dirtech said:
Dirtech said:
Ok, so I was riding today and suddenly there was a clunk and the power cut out. I got home and ran autodetect which came back with "halls error 1".
I checked the voltages across my halls which were:
+5v: 4.29
Temp: 2.18
Hall 1: 4.26
Hall 2: 4.27
Hall 3: 0.00
Halls 1,2 and 3 alternated as I turned the wheel.
Any idea what to try next? I hope the problem is not internal to the motor as I cant remove the freewheel to open it.
Click to expand...
When I twist the throttle, the wheel locks out and will not turn freely. The wheel turns freely when the power is released. Not sure if that helps anyone identify the problem.
Click to expand...
What type of motor? If it's a C-lyte, you might want to change the hall sensors..... I recently had to do mine, runs so much better. Prolly should have done that when new because this is the second Clyte 40 series I had hall sensor compatibility issues communicating with the Adaptto controller! Think the originals overheat and burn-out..... I went with all new SS-41's.

But as RTL said, try running sensorless to make sure a phase wire is not shorted or something else.....
 
ridethelightning said:
noticed recentl that switching displays between different controllers(probably from different manufacture dates) has very odd results.
new max-e with 1year old mini-e screen =

i get -98C in mosfet temps, NO main screen, and back button wont work. :lol:
also the motor temps keep cycling between 6C and 13C :?:

when i plugged the new controller(max-e) into its own screen, its working as it should.
could this have caused my mini-e to blow, cause i mixed an old screen with a new mini-e??
Click to expand...
rtl, did you update both the controller firmware and LCD firmware to a Max-E version of the same revision. I don't think you're supposed to blend Max-E and Mini-E firmware?
That being said, once I tried to revert a newer Mini-E controller and LCD display back to firmware 7C like Allex runs. Even though both were the same version, when it powered-up, my screens backlight came on but the display was blank. Had to install newer firmware to get the display to work. It may be possible there are 2 or more hardware configurations of the display and controller....
 
skWarDog said:
ridethelightning said:
noticed recentl that switching displays between different controllers(probably from different manufacture dates) has very odd results.
new max-e with 1year old mini-e screen =

i get -98C in mosfet temps, NO main screen, and back button wont work. :lol:
also the motor temps keep cycling between 6C and 13C :?:

when i plugged the new controller(max-e) into its own screen, its working as it should.
could this have caused my mini-e to blow, cause i mixed an old screen with a new mini-e??
Click to expand...
rtl, did you update both the controller firmware and LCD firmware to a Max-E version of the same revision. I don't think you're supposed to blend Max-E and Mini-E firmware?
That being said, once I tried to revert a newer Mini-E controller and LCD display back to firmware 7C like Allex runs. Even though both were the same version, when it powered-up, my screens backlight came on but the display was blank. Had to install newer firmware to get the display to work. It may be possible there are 2 or more hardware configurations of the display and controller....
Click to expand...
]

i think you hit the nail on the head there.
looks like the screen firmware needs to be compatable with the controller.

when i blew up my second mini-e, i was using a new mini-e with the old mini-e screen. im thinking this may have had someting to do with it.
although it seemed to work fine.
 
ridethelightning said:
sounds like a wiring issue to me. could be a short on the phases, which i hard to tell because they always have continuity.

id be opening it up.

have you tried sensorless mode?
Click to expand...
Just tried sensorless mode, but just got a small beeping noise coming from the motor when I turned the throttle. The wheel did not lock out while the throttle was engaged this time though. It is a QS 3000W motor, but I have no clue how to remove the freewheel (came pre-installed) to open it. I believe this is the freewheel on it, so if anybody has any ideas on how to remove it.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/16t-single-speed-flywheel-folding-bike-flywheel-phoenix-bicycle-flywheel/1098340129.html
 
i have a qs motor like that too.

from my experience, you dont need to remove the freewheel....but i have a puller.

take the disc off

undo all the screws on the disc side, then push the axle through from the freewheel side with the puller.

this should have the stator and disc side cover removed. you can then check the halls/phases.

its worth having a puller. i think a cheap one will be around 50$
 
I also tested for shorts between the phase wires but disconnecting them then shorting two together each time and spinning the wheel but got resistance each time. Is it possible that a short occurred and blew something in the controller? I will try to get the motor open today and see if I can spot a problem but I am running out of tests to do to try to find the problem.
 
Dirtech said:
I also tested for shorts between the phase wires but disconnecting them then shorting two together each time and spinning the wheel but got resistance each time. Is it possible that a short occurred and blew something in the controller? I will try to get the motor open today and see if I can spot a problem but I am running out of tests to do to try to find the problem.
Click to expand...
Also tested the mosfets which look fine.
 
Dirtech said:
Dirtech said:
I also tested for shorts between the phase wires but disconnecting them then shorting two together each time and spinning the wheel but got resistance each time. Is it possible that a short occurred and blew something in the controller? I will try to get the motor open today and see if I can spot a problem but I am running out of tests to do to try to find the problem.
Click to expand...
Also tested the mosfets which look fine.
Click to expand...
I have the motor open but cannot immediately spot a problem, is there anything in particular I should check?
 
Hi! Does anyone know how much the controller can step-up the voltage when charging?

I understand that the efficiency will go down, and maybe amp capability, but is it possible to charge a 22s battery with a 28v power supply?
I tried charging trough the controller for the first time today. 28v dc 10a power supply, got some smoke from the power supply when I tried using 10a current. :roll: I quickly shut the power supply off, disconnected it, and measured if it still worked. (I think i just overloaded it, but shut it down quick enough). Then i tried using 7a, and did not get a response from the controller at all, only the usual text "No charging voltage, press down to exit". Is it possible that it cant step 28v up to 90v?

Also, i just disconnected one of the phase wires to have a place to connect the coil. This seems really unlikely to me, but, does the controller need all tree phase wires to be able to charge?
 
Yes, all 3 phase wires must be connected to the motor for charging to take place....
It does not matter which phase you tap for the charging lead, you can even tap 2 phase wires for dual chargers if you want, but they must be connected to the motor per diagram in manual.
 
28 should work.
PSU should have sensed your 20A and cut off...
Also, you need all phases to be connected as shown in the wiring diagram, otherwise the charge will not work
 
Thanks for the answers. It was an old psu with auto restart enabled. I can't understand why the motor has to be connected. I am going to soldier a connector to a phase wire anyway, so I'll give it a go this afternoon.
 
Not having phases connected is likely your issue. There is no problem with charging on 24v, I charged daily at 1kw/42amps using 24v (two server PSU's in series) for 6 months or so before getting a better powersupply.
 
This question was already asked but not answered : does someone know what "capacity update" means in the statistics menu ? The function was probably not implemented when the last user's manual was written. Could we expect a new version soon ?
 
graoully said:
This question was already asked but not answered : does someone know what "capacity update" means in the statistics menu ? The function was probably not implemented when the last user's manual was written. Could we expect a new version soon ?
Click to expand...

Capacity update will mark as full charge and update battery capacity to the total you then consume. This rescales the predicted range/gauge. In my case I charged to 4.1 and ran down to LVC. Doesn't mean I can't use above 4.1 if required, just means most of the time the gauge is accurate.
 
question re the BMS:
do cells have to be connected up in order? Understandably cells 17-20 may now refer to cells (for example) 5-8, but other than that, will it be ok?

reason i ask is my pack is split into basically 3 different sub packs (1 big lot of 12s, and 2 small lots of 4s, all in series, with the 12 being 'in the middle' of the other 2) in order to most easily mount them on the bike. it'd be good if two of the BMS units could be mounted directly on the smaller packs, and just a single 3 core wire went to the main BMS unit in the larger main pack.


cheers
 
I ended up moving the controller outside to try and resolve the heat issue. this seems to have fixed that but now it has a odd issue where the accelleration seems to turn off for a fraction of a second every 20-30seconds giving abit of a weird oscillating effect. It spins the motor up with no issue but when riding the oscillations start happening.

Anyone have a similar issue? I have checked my wiring that i moved and retuned the controller multiple times including manually tuning, turned LS on and off, turned the throttle to speed and back to torque, doesnt matter if i am cruising at 10amp or pulling 130, it still "pauses" which when on full accelleration its a very noticeable stop and start that happens super quick.
 
Ohbse said:
graoully said:
This question was already asked but not answered : does someone know what "capacity update" means in the statistics menu ? The function was probably not implemented when the last user's manual was written. Could we expect a new version soon ?
Click to expand...

Capacity update will mark as full charge and update battery capacity to the total you then consume. This rescales the predicted range/gauge. In my case I charged to 4.1 and ran down to LVC. Doesn't mean I can't use above 4.1 if required, just means most of the time the gauge is accurate.
Click to expand...

I'll try to proceed. In fact I noticed the gauge doesn't update automatically after a full charge ( I use an external 72 V charger with the Adaptto BMS but not the coil ). Is there a way to solve this issue ?
 
I like to combine a Adappto controller mini-e with a Domino twist-grip throttle with a potentiometer.(see electricmotorsport.com).
The potentiometer from Domino is 5 kohm.
The documentation of Adappto only speaks of a hall type throtlle
Who can ?
What should the wiring scheme be ?
 
graoully said:
I'll try to proceed. In fact I noticed the gauge doesn't update automatically after a full charge ( I use an external 72 V charger with the Adaptto BMS but not the coil ). Is there a way to solve this issue ?
Click to expand...

Mark as full charge on the statistics screen will reset your gauge to full if charging via another method.
 
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