GCinDC's Zooma Ty Rod II go kart conversion

so here's the pelican case after adding:
- main on off switch, which also turns off watt meter (on top out of view)
- 8s cell meter with HV/LV alarm and simple 'fuel gauge' meter (needs to be unplugged to deactivate)
- ON (full throttle)/OFF/ON (lower throttle) switch
20150829_074427.jpg


from top:
- watt meter
- Pot control dial (looks like antenna, lol) for adjustments in the field (my testing)
- the wire is temp, to keep from case from wobbling back and forth - still need stabilizer bar on front side, esp if someone tries to push the go kart by pushing on the case
20150829_074517.jpg


light and switch (barely visible red switch on front of batt case, just above brake line)
20150829_074625.jpg

20150829_074601.jpg


next order of business is sorting out the chain guide/chain length. the original motor sprocket was in a higher position, so the chain angle around the guide was less acute. this is where i've had it w/ new motor, but rubs the tire too:
20150829_075155.jpg


here's another position that works w/ existing chain guide, but must cause a lot of unec friction:
20150829_075127.jpg


seems logical that more of the chain that goes AROUND the sprocket, the less of a strain it is on the chain and the more efficient, right?

am i better off w/o a chain guide and shortening the chain? it's guaranteed to start popping off w/o a guide, isn't it?
20150829_075520.jpg


i think the previous owner hit something w/ the rear wheel as well, cause it's got a bit of a wobble too, which affects chain ring and brake disc. :roll:

this position might be a happy medium, plus i could drill a hole to pop another bolt through the slot:
20150829_075657.jpg


come on guys, give me some help!

the last little thing will be welding a band aid on the front end to strengthen the frame where the previous owner wrapped it around a tree. i straightened it out most of the way, but needs more. without a rider, the right wheel is slightly off the ground:
20150829_075759.jpg


i anticipating needing to reweld that inside corner, so taped it when i last painted, but i'm thinking instead of welding 4" of angle iron on the bottom of the frame there after bending it into position...
 
thanks guys! happy to make it w/o any duct tape, except around batts! very unlike me. :p

as for the flip flops, yeah, i agree. but i was making sure they rode it only in the open. and as for the speed switch, hopefully they won't find it till they've learned how to ride it.

that reminds me, i need another big switch for REVERSE!

anyway, it's done for now.

the batt case stabilizer bar:
20150829_212707.jpg


after welding and painting:
20150829_215917.jpg


bolted to case and frame:
20150829_224326.jpg


inside of batt case (8s4p for 23Ah):
20150829_222524.jpg


oh yeah, removed to chain links and bolted guide thru slot for add'l strength:
20150829_230825.jpg


ready for action:
20150829_230810.jpg

20150829_230800.jpg
 
took the kart to the park for the first time w/ new motor. running 32V and controller drew max 41.5A. :twisted:

motor was cool as a cucumber even after hauling me around. thought i took a lot more vid but must not have turned the camera on.. :roll:
[youtube]mOjH1cp_rDs[/youtube]

i flipped the switch when i rode, but then forgot to turn it back for kids...

they did a couple doughnuts on the basketball court but i told them to stop. haha
 
can you make the steering tube collapsible so that a full on front collision doesn't push the steering rod back into their chest or face? maybe a piece of tubing for the center section of that rod so there is space to collapse before being pushed all the way back. split the tubing on the ends with a hacksaw and then use gear clamps to clamp the tubing around the rod on each end.
 
Ideally, you should remove that chain tensioner and shorten the chain to give you more links in contact with the motor sprocket to reduce wear and prevent chain skip.
You will probably have to find a way to make small adjustment to the motor mount to get ideal chain play (tight chains lose power !)
 
Similarly, a guard round the chain to avoid cut off fingers and an overhanging bar at the back might be an idea to avoid the battery box/motor being the first point of contact.

A kill switch immediately available to the driver is also a good idea.

More skids!
 
dnmun said:
can you make the steering tube collapsible so that a full on front collision doesn't push the steering rod back into their chest or face?
yo d, it maxes at 20mph or less, so can't imagine the steering rod doing that! interesting idea tho. easier to add a bumper?

Lurkin said:
Similarly, a guard round the chain to avoid cut off fingers and an overhanging bar at the back might be an idea to avoid the battery box/motor being the first point of contact.

A kill switch immediately available to the driver is also a good idea.

More skids!
yeah, a chain guard is a top priority! the batt box is solid, and i'll only need to push it if something breaks in the field.

the brake lever acts as an ebrake, so kindof a kill switch, right?

next mod is a reverse switch! :twisted: arrives tomorrow. i'll mount it near the motor, then run the mini rocker switch to the handlebars or somewhere.
24VPRCONTROL.JPG


and here's from last night:
[youtube]GA6GzejIRSQ[/youtube]
 
That is a pretty cool build, and I love that you got your kids right in on the project. I'm waiting for my daughter to get a little bit older before I start letting her around motorized objects. She's 3 1/2, and has been helping me build her play structure. Wood today, metal and magnets tomorrow! :D
 
Hillhater said:
Ideally, you should remove that chain tensioner and shorten the chain to give you more links in contact with the motor sprocket to reduce wear and prevent chain skip.
advice taken.
20150920_224848.jpg


also beefed up the motor support with add'l bars. savage welding, lol:
20150920_224910.jpg


nice peek at my swollen foot in the background. lol. swelling has gone down, but here it is at ripest a week ago. (sprained it playing basketball...)
20150911_150624.jpg


oh yeah, the prior owner wrapped the front end around a tree or something so i also fixed this:
20150920_154612.jpg


i cleaned up the area, and put a bead over it (forgot to take a pic afterward)
20150920_162235.jpg


thanks to thud for real time tech support. :wink:
 
kart's been great. but with winter coming, i'm starting to think about the fun we could have in the snow, with certain modifications...

such as large snow blower tires like:
Snow-Hog.jpg


kinda like this vid i found:
[youtube]TLiZACs0llk[/youtube]

and it won't make sense to have only one wheel driving, so i'd need to somehow install a live axle. not sure how to do that yet.

and of course we can upgrade the power as necessary. :twisted:

was thinking skis on the front, but we'll see..
 
GCinDC said:
and it won't make sense to have only one wheel driving, so i'd need to somehow install a live axle. not sure how to do that yet.

and of course we can upgrade the power as necessary. :twisted:

Maybe use a second motor on the other wheel. No need for a live axle and twice the power!
 
Live axle is standard on all track karts, so plenty of parts and know how around.
Handling will be very different though, you really need correct front end geometry ..king pin angles, castor, etc etc to give "weight jacking" on the frame and enough power to help with throttle steering, and good weight distribution.
It can be quite a learning experience to drive a live axle kart...especially on a low grip surface.
Two motors may be a better idea !
 
Hello.
I've read this thread with great interest. I purchased a used Zooma Ty Rod II and am doing an electric conversion very much like yours. This will be the chassis for my son's vehicle in the Power Racing Series race in September. We purchased a 48V motor with a controller and plan to use a 16s 12AH headway pack to power it.

I found the reverse switch that you purchased on Amazon. Did that reverse switch work out for your build?
 
hey jerry, sorry i never replied. the answer was no, i never installed the switch but i have no reason to think it wouldn't work... how's your project going?

in other news, this vid is fairly recent..
[youtube]hUem7jOwHuU[/youtube]
 
I had one of those 24volt scooters which I ran at 36volts with no problems. That's a third more power! That looks like a blast.
 
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