markz
100 TW
I have a sour taste in my mouth about McMaster.com, because I'm Canadian eh!
High-Strength 182 Copper sounds good!
Until I read this
High-Strength 182 Copper sounds good!
Until I read this
JP spot welder
- Thread starter riba2233
- Start date
litespeed
100 kW
I believe I posted this here somewhere before but here it again from Sunstone Engineering, the spot welder that everyone wants.
Thank you for contacting Sunstone Engineering. The electrodes that we recommend using for welding nickel battery tabs is Glidcop, it is a copper/chromium mix. We have special electrodes that we sell for battery welding, part number EL125BATT. These are 1/8” shaft with a 1/16” welding surface on either end. You can find them on our website here:
http://sunstoneengineering.com/products/accessories/electrodes/
After I put these on my 10k amp spot welder my welds went from crap to so professional I think everyone needs to know about them. If they fit Riba's holders they would probably be the best you could hope for. They last long also.
Tom
Thank you for contacting Sunstone Engineering. The electrodes that we recommend using for welding nickel battery tabs is Glidcop, it is a copper/chromium mix. We have special electrodes that we sell for battery welding, part number EL125BATT. These are 1/8” shaft with a 1/16” welding surface on either end. You can find them on our website here:
http://sunstoneengineering.com/products/accessories/electrodes/
After I put these on my 10k amp spot welder my welds went from crap to so professional I think everyone needs to know about them. If they fit Riba's holders they would probably be the best you could hope for. They last long also.
Tom
tomjasz
1 GW
litespeed said:
If I'm correct the Sunstone 3/16 are the fit.
I imagine if someone is welding 500 batteries the spendy Sunstone products may pay off but some have welded 600 batts with the JP copper rods with no problem. For me a beginner hobbiest, I have no welder envy for the Sunstone. I expect to build my 14s6p and 10s3p packs just fine with those provided. The Sunkko welders use 1" 2mm (need to confirm measurements)copper and Alumina Copper. Those last through scores of batts. Once the JP is dialed in to the nickel strips being used the welds are great. Unless we're doing production runs...but then again I've communicated with several here building batt packs for sale using the JP and Sunkko welders and copper tips. No issues. Perhaps your higher power unit needs them. Mine don't seem to for now. Good information for those copying your style of build. Thanks for that!
Jason3
10 mW
I'd like one too, can you put me on the list? 
Ok guys, you are both on!
Electrode wearing also depends on whether you're welding thick or regular nickel. I noticed only very small (almost none) wear when welding 0.1 or 0.15 mm nickel. But 0.3, that's another story. But they are ways to avoid using such thick nickel.
Electrode wearing also depends on whether you're welding thick or regular nickel. I noticed only very small (almost none) wear when welding 0.1 or 0.15 mm nickel. But 0.3, that's another story. But they are ways to avoid using such thick nickel.
Rodney64
100 kW
Ribba, my spot welder arrived today. Thanks it looks good. I'm still waiting for nickel, but it's should be here this week. I have absolutely no idea how to build this pack. I notice some cells are upside down so I need to get myself head around this.
I need to do something with my hands that's how I learn.
I need to do something with my hands that's how I learn.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
I am trying to weld nickel plated copper, 0.16mm thickness.
i couldnt find it to buy so i had to make my own by electroplating copper shim/sheet.
using a dn10, im having some good results but i think a double pulse would be much better.
i couldnt find it to buy so i had to make my own by electroplating copper shim/sheet.
using a dn10, im having some good results but i think a double pulse would be much better.
Rodney64 said:
That's great, if you need some advice me and others are going to help you, no problem!
ridethelightning said:
I've never welded copper thicker than 0.1 mm, but it should be possible since 10 ms is enough fo 0.1 with two 45 Ah batteries.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
with dn10 the 1.6mm copper welds ok, but it either blows through the back of the cell 
or only just tacks on. I hve made some good welds but it seems a little tricky to repeat reliably
it may be just a matter of practice, but i think the dual pulse will help. it seems the blow-outs may be due to surface not being clean enough ,and causing an arc.
(although i always buff everthing clean and wash with alcohol.)
or only just tacks on. I hve made some good welds but it seems a little tricky to repeat reliably
it may be just a matter of practice, but i think the dual pulse will help. it seems the blow-outs may be due to surface not being clean enough ,and causing an arc.
(although i always buff everthing clean and wash with alcohol.)
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
perhaps you have some more idea of why copper is more tricky?
i have already worked out that being more conductive, its harder to get it hot.
are there perhaps some other factors contributing?
i have already worked out that being more conductive, its harder to get it hot.
are there perhaps some other factors contributing?
Yeah, conductivity is the key. For successful weld you want some resistance in welding spots, because of resistance in currents path temperature rises and melts materials. That's why I can't weld 0.1 mm copper to another copper sheet even with highest setting.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
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this makes me think a really THICK coating of nickel on the copper might help(?)
perhaps ill try leaving my copper strip in the electroplate solution overnight
perhaps ill try leaving my copper strip in the electroplate solution overnight
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
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- 2,010
marty
1 MW
Rodney64 said:
Drawing a 3D picture of how batteries are laid out can be tricky. My plan is to use dead batteries and nickle strips patterns made from paper to get a visual idea of how batteries will be connected together. Tape the paper to the batteries.
Parallel first. Series second.
tomjasz
1 GW
I've started working on schematics for several designs. I propose we start a thread with layouts and designs. There's more to learn about the nickel layout and layers.Rodney64 said:
See mat's page and the battery building thread for more. http://www.ebikeschool.com/how-to-build-a-diy-electric-bicycle-lithium-battery-from-18650-cells/
What are you hoping to build?
There also a couple of videos of a 48V 13s4p build by Damien in Spain.
Boestin
100 W
hey, put me on the list too!
Craigh85
10 W
Can I be put on the list also. Cheers
tomjasz
1 GW
A thread with more detail would be GREAT! Nice! Thanks!ridethelightning said:this makes me think a really THICK coating of nickel on the copper might help(?)
perhaps ill try leaving my copper strip in the electroplate solution overnight
Rodney64
100 kW
tomjasz said:
Thanks tomjaz,'that's made it all a bit more clear.
The plans to build 2 packs, 36v 8p. Then series these together for 72 volt. So using the Samsung 25r cell this will give me a 20.8 amp/hr pack.
I haven't decided if I'm going to use the black plastic battery holders or use nickel strip. Using the plastic holders means that I can only go 5 cells wide. But not using the holders means I can go 6 wide. I have both options.'
For my first battery I think that I'll go with the black plastic holders. It will be easier and safer. I've been reading Matts battery building page and it's very well done.
I'll put a thread together for battery building and document some of the issues that I have along the way.
