AT-One electric inline skates (quick update Dec 2020)

Hahax~ Van, it was just a future favor and a lame joke.... IF.... :lol: :lol: Alright then...I'll wait for it :D ....one more thing....its okay right if I use the original 470kv first?.... I'm going for a gearing 1.5-2.5 to 1 now.... the planets.... which means it translates to around 190-310kv? If its okay I'll just get 1 locally and use it as a model motor.... :)
 
Technically you can use the 470kv for molding but it is too high Kv for easy use even with gearing, it might work but will be subject to cog, you can take flats but hills will need more amps than the motor can withstand.

Also the standard layout is good for skateboards, not inlines because standard shaft will be too long (I requested r simple tweaks on the shaft to get it made right for inlines) ; if you can get a complete shaft by yourself you can give it a try though :)
 
U can run 1000kv motor and get the same torque at the same temps as the same motor wound to 100kv if u have the right voltage. 1000kv on 2.2 volts and 100kv on 22 volts will produce same heat:torque. Adding voltage with a low kv makes it hotter for less torque.
Vanarian. 7kilowatts sounds crazy overkill on skates. I'd love to try it
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
U can run 1000kv motor and get the same torque at the same temps as the same motor wound to 100kv if u have the right voltage. 1000kv on 2.2 volts and 100kv on 22 volts will produce same heat:torque. Adding voltage with a low kv makes it hotter for less torque.
Vanarian. 7kilowatts sounds crazy overkill on skates. I'd love to try it
Click to expand...

It can't be the same, Amperage produces more heat by a multiple of 4 than voltage, you may produce the same pic power less substantially more heat losses ; voltage produces negligible heat in comparison so even with balanced V/A combo heat results will not be the same ; though if you spin both motors at same speed at same power level you're right you get same torque :wink:

7Kw are overkill and it's kinda awesome :p I'll figure a way to reach this with hubs too!
 
Yea I thought the same. having heard the same torque produced with same heat if u adjust the amp to voltage ratio I keep repeating it,,as it was repeated to me. Part of the myth of kv.
The windings on the motor are thinner with the low kv and will equate to the same heat as a 2 volt system with 2000kv motor
It's safer, less likely to burn up the motor, if u run higher kv as they're thicker windings.
Downside on lower voltage set-ups are there outside the motor but as far as the motor it seems it's all the same depending on the parts and size of the motor.
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
Yea I thought the same. having heard the same torque produced with same heat if u adjust the amp to voltage ratio I keep repeating it,,as it was repeated to me. Part of the myth of kv.
The windings on the motor are thinner with the low kv and will equate to the same heat as a 2 volt system with 2000kv motor
It's safer, less likely to burn up the motor, if u run higher kv as they're thicker windings.
Downside on lower voltage set-ups are there outside the motor but as far as the motor it seems it's all the same depending on the parts and size of the motor.
Click to expand...

Now that's a myth. I have both 149kv and 190kv sk3 motors and both have 18 turns and same diameter of copper wires. Their only difference is one is 6374 while the other is 6364. So windings and turns are not the only determining factor for kv.

And guess which one gets hot after 3 minutes of riding....the higher kv motors.
 
Windings aren't the only determinant, the size, length especially, will drop kv. Bigger mags will. Smaller air gap as well I think. But given the same size/dimensions motor with same components and just different thickness wire.. You change that and can get good by adjusting the voltage
 
So van and pedi, if I were to use both 470kv and 85kv (if I get 1)..., most probably I will be having a 1.5-2.5 to 1 gearing...which ESC and battery etc would you recommend? Not too expensive plz....I am planning to go ahead for the afro hv 20amp opto now first along with cells of 18650 that are 20amp capable....I'm planning to run it on like 8s first.....so it'll be like around 30v 20a...3200mah...ill be running it on flats first...just for testing the hub gears and housing...izit okay?? I'll get something else later as per your recommendations... Maybe :lol:
 
And 1 more thing.....include also the transmitter&receiver (Motor, if there is 4020 alternative, scorpion?) in recommendation...whole system........best if easily available and to get.....maybe HobbyKing?? :roll: If you guys are good then I'll order the 470kv first straight away....
 
It's for e-skates.....470kv was my temporary solution for modelling gears and housing and also testing...I finished sketching with exact measurement...left integrating actual motor for modelling for final sketch to machine....the main thing is that it must be 4020. (Scorpion has it,similar size and power, infact some thinner with 300-400kv, better but too expensive...)...gear 1.5-2.5 would be best for me (Limited)....I will be waiting for the 85kv or something else organized by van once he received his, tested, review and plans to have another group buy...so now I will be asking for experts opinion and saving money while I wait :D Still not keen to order until it has been reviewed by some of the 10 person who bought those 85kv's. Pedi, your advice are very much appreciated :) Just needed something practical,budget and capable of running 10-20mph and using 18650 cells for my first prototype will be SUPERB :D
 
470kv + gearing (1.5-2.5) + 8s/10s + 20amp + ESC + bec + trans receiver = work? What do you suggest?? I'm still waiting for the ultimate motor (85 :p :D )...and what budget components would you or anyone else reading this would suggest? It must me 4020 or similar size...(4010,4025,4015)... Thanks in advance! Ps: Even if I integrate everything including gearing and housing it will still work like a rc motor... :D
 
If its bigger diameter and/or thicker a little, possible to ditch the gearing and run it like a hub directly? Pros and cons?? :| Sorry for the multiple post....
 
470kv is too fast. I suppose you want to use this motor because it's small, right? But then if you are going to add gears, your setup will still end up big and heavy. I think, going for hub motors would be a better approach, just like what vanarian is doing.

Or...you can go for a friction drive. Sort of like this video but with urethane wheels.

[youtube]MipbUpBXwFw[/youtube]

You can use this motor for a hub or friction-drive setup: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18181__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6364_190kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

This motor is not as long as the motor I'm using. Two of these, one for each foot will get you going. Try 4s batteries first because you might fly away with more. :mrgreen:

Also, you will need more than 20A ESC, more than 65A because the motor can max around that. The ESC you linked is also for Heli, it does not have brakes like a car ESC does. If you need the motors to do the braking too, you need a car ESC.

Here's a link from Sk8norcal's blog. I'm in there somewhere, lol.

http://wackyboards.blogspot.com/search/label/%7E%7Ewacky-rollerskate-motorized
 
If I really just go on hub....with this... Can??....what volt amp and components, setup would you suggest?? I'll disassemble this thing and use its part for hub :lol: its 5325 so I guess the black part (i dont know what to call it, its the wires and magnets) would be 25mm/1 inch? I think it's longer... :eek: :D Sorry everyone that I have a lot to ask....please bare with my noobness...I had ideas but don't have sufficient knowledge yet...
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m607-bigfoot110-5325-295kv.html
 
No problem ;)

Ok so first about the motor, the 470kv is identical as far as dimensions but shaft is wrong because unadapted on both sides. You need to account for this when you design your gears. My custom version will come with corrected shaft so this is temporary issue for you.
The Tacon Big Foot is wider but good start too because lower Kv. Also shaft is still wrong. For gearing you will have more margin.

Second you need to set the power limit you wish to reach because the most important part of your setup in your whole budget even before motors is the BATTERIES. They determine your voltage, amperage, discharge rate, overall weight of your vehicle.

Once chosen you must match an ESC and proper transmitter. I recommend the combo VESC plus Bluetooth nunc huck (cheap and efficient control) . Or VESC plus RC transmitter because you also have a smartphone app coming for the VESC thanks to Endless-sphere community! :p
 
I've made my mind to get a tacon 110 and 18650, its new LG 20amp capable each cell...but i'll figure out the configuration later....maybe 6s2p or 4s3p? Hahax~ If there's more space to fit those lipos sold at HK then i'll change it by then, for now...18650s....What's VESC? I saw some forums about this some custom esc or something....haven't look through it yet....Izit gonna be fussy (a lot of complicated works and materials to make it work) or plug and play? Price? I'm living in Malaysia so things with USD would be super expensive here.....Malaysia's dropping currency to USD = 4.3:1.....You could buy a set of McDonalds with USD 1.50..... :x :cry: :cry: :|
 
Go for the 6S2P setup, it will be better for you with same energy density.

You can always put 2 packs of HK Lipos if you want only 6S, you will get more Amps. And it might be less expensive !

Go through the VESC forum, read first page then jump to last pages, it is plug and play and configurable via either smartphone or PC. If you can't take this one you should look at Pediglide thread ("I bought a lathe... and made Hub motors"), he has a list of working ESCs.
 
Van, I found the VESC, but it's like USD 169 :cry: :cry: Anywhere to get this made besides enertion?? I could buy more then 200 sets of McD meals in my country...one full set of meal was like less than USD 1.50.... :cry: :cry:
 
Nvm, found more source :D found another from jamesnotc...it's more affordable there...
 
Good ;)

I miss my own VESC Marcin has fixed them and supposedly has sent them for me (hope he got back in good shape from his accident) so I'm still waiting right now.

Lot of work is ahead and I'd like to get it done haha
 
Hey van, when would you be expecting the custom 4020s to arrive? 2 weeks? I'm just curious....btw, quad's motors are not strong/good enough rite?? I mean structure and stress wise.... i found some in between 500-1000 watts in decent shapes and was just wondering those motor's capabilities.....Personally I think it could't handle the amps to run and stay running...needs a kick start before running....
 
Not sure to have understood everything ;

About custom motors the order has been launched by September 2 and the factory asked me for a layouts choice by the 9 so I assume that they will be ready by the 29th ; you add shipping time of around one week so motors should be home by October 5th.

I'm confident they will be able to start from stand still and run without problems.

What are the quad motors you talked about? Main requirements are enough diameter to diffuse heat instead of accumulating it and also enough power to run and not fry. 40mm are strict minimum, 50mm are better, and the bigger the better.

Outrunners are best. Flee inrunners you will put too much stress on them.

Edit : Between quads skates and inlines skates the load is practically identical. BTW having to make a little kick-start can be a good thing for feedback and feeling.
 
Ahahaha, sorry for the misunderstanding.... I meant those quadcopters motors...eg. 4114, 5010, 4108 all those~ I was asking that would it handle those stress or not, and will it fry or not, as they had lower amps rating and other stuffs (eg, max 28amp) and tend to overstress and overheat, i guess you gave me my answers already~ haha. Thanks.
It was just a thought, I'm not gonna try on those first... Go on to your built~ I'm fine here...If i had any questions I would definitely look for you :)
 
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