E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hi,
I'm hoping for information and after reading most of everything in the stealth area hopefully will help me ask the right questions. I have had a Bomber for a little over 4 years and in that time have replaced pads, rotors, and tires twice. My bike has been rock solid as to and from work vehicle 3 seasons of the year. I had thought to completely overhaul it this winter but circumstances have changed as my charger died a week ago and now I need to decide how to move forward. My questions are as follows:

1. Has anyone designed a charger that can be incorporated into the front of the battery compartment and wired in so you only need to carry a power cord?
2. As a 240lb rider I found the motor was amazing new but a little sluggish over time. Is it more practical to try to have it rebuilt or source a new one with equivalent specs or better and if so recommendations for a rider that pushes his bike to its limits half the time?

I'm mostly hoping to get options above and beyond just ordering replacement parts from stealth. If there is a better way I'm genuinely interested. Thank you for any help that you can provide.

In regards to above i dont think charger in frame is possible space wise.
Heres the right one u can buy http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=37&product_id=127
Hub motor shouldn't wear out,its only what feeds it does.
I c ur thinking though.

Here we go again more fun
[youtube]WXvSVaG-wKw[/youtube]

Thank you, so essentially a new pack is all that's required. I have some research to do then, while reading through the threads I saw that packs can be built with greater capacity in the same physical space. Is there a down side to these or are they simply a plug and play upgrade?

Allex said:

I am doing a replacement pack for one Bomber user now.
This pack will be 21Ah and half the weight of the stock one. Price is about 1500usd
You can use your old charger, just plug and play.
View attachment 1

Could even do a 27Ah cost is around 1700usd
42Ah is possible but then we need to swap out the charger and it will be really tight!

Click to expand...

Allex can sort u a pack, depends how much £ u wanna spend,
Are u still getting good distance out of ur original battery?

My range is significantly decreased but to be expected. I'm just over 120 charges and just under 32k miles. Might get just over 20 miles on a charge at this point at speed.

I have successfully installed a MC tyre on the rear of my Bomber and the weight added with this Maxiss Maxcros 70/100-19 is only 1Kg:



During the first ride I reached a top speed of 84Km/h checked with GPS and before the change I was doing about 90Km/h with OVS =3.0°

Holy crap where u gona ride with that tyre, will hook up well in the mud though,
Nice work

SA1NT said:

My range is significantly decreased but to be expected. I'm just over 120 charges and just under 32k miles. Might get just over 20 miles on a charge at this point at speed.

Click to expand...

120 charges 32k is that a typo
Cant b right

Cycl 115
TotalAhr 30405
TotalMile 31103

I took a pic but not sure how to embed, this is from CA.

Uhm 115cycles and 31103miles is 270miles/cycle
and
30405Ahr/115cycles is 264Ah per cycle.

Something is wrong here. Maybe just Cycle count is not correct, as with 31k miles you should have around 800 cycles.

I was doing the math when you asked, a higher charge count would make sense as I charge over the winter as well as I don't want the battery to sit dead

Hi Guys.

What is the name of this plug type?
Is is possible to repair a broken connection inside? Or is it permanently crimped?

I've obviously not tried yet.
I have a fault in there.

Caught the loom on a stick or something on the trail. Had to happen one day I suppose.

Phase wires can self unplug, but this baby has the clip lock is it got pulled real hard. Seems wobbly and broken.

I was just thinking about re-routing them above the BB. Damn it.

Thanks in advance.

Emmett said:

Hi Guys.

What is the name of this plug type?
Is is possible to repair a broken connection inside? Or is it permanently crimped?

I've obviously not tried yet.
I have a fault in there.

Caught the loom on a stick or something on the trail. Had to happen one day I suppose.

Phase wires can self unplug, but this baby has the clip lock is it got pulled real hard. Seems wobbly and broken.

I was just thinking about re-routing them above the BB. Damn it.

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

They are known as Mini XLR 5Pin.
Here's one for you:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-Pin-Mi...t-TB5M-Match-TA5F-Connector-Q-G-/291042208696
It's a good thing they are cheap.

Oh and they are a B*tch to solder!

Cheers

Cowardlyduck said:

They are known as Mini XLR 5Pin.

Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks CD.

I'll go to Jaycar tomorrow and try buy a pair. Not looking good in their catalog though.

I'm pretty sure the female one (in my pic) is the one with damaged wiring behind it.

Hopefully I can work out the colour to pin combos.

Two questions:
If I guess the pin to pins wrong, and do a test (give it a little throttle), will I damage something?
Can you recommend a better plug type for the temp sensor wires?

What, these are microphone plugs? That's handy to know.
I would recommend finding someone who is very skilled with a soldering iron because not only do you want rock solid reliable joins, but if there is any solder contact between pins you can kill hall sensors in the motor, I did and it was a world of pain. It's very did fly and no second chances if you get it wrong.
For added protection I also potted my connectors with quick setting araldite after soldering, but there is potting glue available apparently.

This really is the Achilles heal of the fighter wiring and if you can re-route it please share pics, I'm even more dubious now I hear it is a microphone Jack, have to go easy on the creek crossings.

Last rear puncture I left the wheel on the bike and pulled the tube out to fix it, I just did not want to mess with the nicely sealed up connector, it's a sure bet that's where gremlins get in!

I wrote "fiddly" the damn auto check wrote "did fly"!!

SUNDRIVE said:

if there is any solder contact between pins you can kill hall sensors in the motor, I did and it was a world of pain. It's very did fly and no second chances if you get it wrong.

Click to expand...

Now that's handy to know too. I've got a bad feeling I could have shorted something when trying to make it work to get home.

Perhaps my bike will be out of action for a while, just when I have some ride time available. Argh!

Here is my old connector on the left, just use a small iron tip and you will be fine
Now I would not recommend resuing them as they are not waterproof, just google for "waterproof connectors" and you will get a tons of alternatives
Like this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5x-WATERPROOF-WIRE-CONNECTOR-PLUG-car-boat-truck-bike-/110699429804

Allex said:

Here is my old connector on the left, just use a small iron tip and you will be fine
Now I would not recommend resuing them as they are not waterproof, just google for "waterproof connectors" and you will get a tons of alternatives

Click to expand...

Thanks Allex. But I'm a bit confused. It looks like you converted from a 5 pin Crystallite std XLR to some other 6 pin plug, so you could eliminate the extra plug for the temp sensor. So I'm unsure how to use that information. I do understand you loud and clear about looking for better plug types!

I'm fairly sure I've ripped wires out of the inside of the female plug in my photo. And possibly damaged the shell on the plug. I'll find out in the morning.

If more than one wire broke away, then maybe I wont be able to see which wire went to what terminal. I haven't even checked yet, since it was dark when I got home (long pedal + push) then I had to go somewhere.

Do you know if the 5 wire colours in the hub loom will directly match the colours in the controller loom?

Do you think that if the broken wires with exposed copper touched in the wrong places (while I stuffed around sometimes with the power on) then I might have toasted my hall sensors? Stupid I didn't think more carefully when I was out on the trail.

What is interesting, is that if I had cheaper XLR connectors that pulled apart with out the sliding clip lock, then the plug would have come apart, and I'd just plug it back together and keep on riding. Like the phase wire plugs. They're good since the will pull apart and nothing breaks if tugged hard enough.

I like that ebay link. Something like that looks good. Lots of water crossing where I go. And often very rough terrain with loose or fixed objects everywhere. Thank you.

Dont bother about the upper right picture, I was doing an example for another guy on the forum.
I dont know how the new bikes looks like, but on my old bike we did not have any t- sensors so only a 5 pin plug.

those are:
GND
Positive
hall 1
hall 2
hall 3
Those wires shoudl match on the controller plug. just get GND and positive right the other three you can have in the wrong order wihtout damagin think. BUt dont do full throttle if you feel that halls are not in the right order, you can blow the controller up. Just apply gentle throttle and if the wheel does not spin or cogs, flip the hall wires.

If you have additional plug för the sensor then you may convert it to a 6 pin plug - this would look a bit neater.
Lets just hope that no major damage is done.

bigbore said:

I have successfully installed a MC tyre on the rear of my Bomber and the weight added with this Maxiss Maxcros 70/100-19 is only 1Kg:

During the first ride I reached a top speed of 84Km/h checked with GPS and before the change I was doing about 90Km/h with OVS =3.0°

Click to expand...

Looks Sweet and mean Simone. Have your ridden the motor tire combo Fuori Strada yet?

Allex said:

Those wires should match on the controller plug. just get GND and positive right the other three you can have in the wrong order without damaging I think. But dont do full throttle if you feel that halls are not in the right order, you can blow the controller up. Just apply gentle throttle and if the wheel does not spin or cogs, flip the hall wires.

Lets just hope that no major damage is done.

Click to expand...

Allex, thanks for the extra info. I determined that the sensor loom 5 pin plug and wiring on the Crystallyte controller side is all fine. Since I connected my new spare H4040 motor and it responds smooth and strong to any throttle position. The screw on shell on the 5 pin female plug was loose, but still on far enough to avoid straining those little wires.

So I need to diagnose an fix my faulty H4065 (wires or sensors). This problem happened when the hall sensor plug got yanked hard on the trail. So I think there's a good chance it's not a dead sensor in the hub. Instead I hope a broken conductor very close to the 5 pin male plug. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Rix said:

Looks Sweet and mean Simone. Have your ridden the motor tire combo Fuori Strada yet?

Click to expand...

Sure I rode it off road ..... Now we are talking about to put the full >10Kw to the ground without destroying the rear tyre in a moment
I have bashed my Bomber a bit riding on deep sand on the beach and in the soft ground in the woods trails near my home. In the sand I prefer to ride my motor with the cooling holes closed (it's like a standard 5403). I must ride in Normal mode with Battery Amps set at 29A and Phase Amps set at 78A and the 5403 was getting very hot at 120°C with just 2Kw at slow speed such as 20Km/h.
The rear motocross tyre is providing a lot more traction that then Halo Contra 24X3.0 but I want to try a larger tyre also ... so today I have ordered this enduro GoldenTyre GT205 80/100-19:
http://www.gommadiretto.it/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=130&cart_id=75082293.130.22664&Breite=80&Quer=100&Felge=19&Speed=&kategorie=&Marke=&ranzahl=1&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&rsmFahrzeugart=MO&details=Ordern&typ=D-109177

I'm impressed on the variety of tyres that are available with MC rims .... while surfing the site for enduro tyres on 19" rim I have also found this Bridgestone TW201 80/100-19 for on road guys
http://www.gommadiretto.it/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=130&cart_id=75082293.130.22664&Breite=80&Quer=100&Felge=19&Speed=&kategorie=&profil=&Marke=&ranzahl=1&S_Z=&tyre_for=&x_tyre_for=&F_F=&m_s=1&rsmFahrzeugart=MO&details=Ordern&typ=R-130410

Then these are some max speed I recorded with different OVS:
OVS=3° max speed is 85Km/h
OVS=5° max speed is 94Km/h
OVS=6° max speed is to be confirmed but i guess a little more then 100Km/h

Does anybody know what the temp sensor plug on the newer Bombers are called ? I need to pick up some.

[youtube]oB5yTeGJsbA[/youtube]

Latest vid of Pops and I riding in north eastern California near Boca Reservoir.