How-To: Anti-Spark XT-90 Loop Key

sl33py said:
You need to make sure your batteries are connected correctly in series. The middle + and - should pair up and you should have one red positive and one black negative go to your esc.

Don't connect until that's clear!
The two negative from the batteries go into each other using the black middle series connector (two male ends) than the red connects to positive side xt90 and exits through negative to esc
Black from the battery. Goes directly to esc.
 
camyboy said:
The two negative from the batteries go into each other using the black middle series connector (two male ends) than the red connects to positive side xt90 and exits through negative to esc
Black from the battery. Goes directly to esc.

Ouch !!!
http://www.12voltbattery.info/index.php?page=batteries_parallel_vs_series
 
Connect the numbers to eachother as follows:
VUoW14B.jpg
 
Trbt555 said:
Connect the numbers to eachother as follows:
VUoW14B.jpg

Winner winner chicken dinner!

The top connector is correct. your black goes to the "bridge" (happens to be black). That bridge black goes into your red on bottom battery. This makes it in series. Think of AA batteries the bottom battery + touches the bottom - of the top battery -[===}+ -[===}+ which gives you 3v instead of 1.5v if you did them in parallel.

So your bottom connectors just need to flip over so that your two wires going to your ESC have the Red + on top, and Black - on bottom. If you plug the black wire to the ESC (3) into the Red battery lead (2) you are going to weld! No bueno.

Nice revision to the pic Trbt555.
 
sl33py said:
Trbt555 said:
Connect the numbers to eachother as follows:
VUoW14B.jpg

Winner winner chicken dinner!

The top connector is correct. your black goes to the "bridge" (happens to be black). That bridge black goes into your red on bottom battery. This makes it in series. Think of AA batteries the bottom battery + touches the bottom - of the top battery -[===}+ -[===}+ which gives you 3v instead of 1.5v if you did them in parallel.

So your bottom connectors just need to flip over so that your two wires going to your ESC have the Red + on top, and Black - on bottom. If you plug the black wire to the ESC (3) into the Red battery lead (2) you are going to weld! No bueno.

Nice revision to the pic Trbt555.
Wow, thanks. I acutally made all the connectors like that pic but my brain didnt wrap around how a postive and negative can go into each other. Heres my result http://imgur.com/KEfs5Fa and I was just wonder if i should just attach the spark to the ESC idk if it will effect if the spark is close to any wiring or. http://imgur.com/1jENKyZ
 
When you put batteries in a regular flashlight you put them in "head to toe" ie (+) touching (-), same principle applies here.
It doesn't matter where you put the anti-spark as long as it's in the loop. Put it where it's most convenient to you.
 
Trbt555 said:
When you put batteries in a regular flashlight you put them in "head to toe" ie (+) touching (-), same principle applies here.
It doesn't matter where you put the anti-spark as long as it's in the loop. Put it where it's most convenient to you.
Hows this? http://prntscr.com/8xt7zq I think Im all set
Extra PIC if hard to understand - http://prntscr.com/8xt8p8
 
sl33py said:
Trbt555 said:
Go for it dude !

agreed. Looks solid. Connect it up and you should be gtg.
Good NEWS! BOARD RUNS! Measuring up dimensions tmmr and going to look at ways for enclosures
Whats a good ESC config? Im not sure what to put
Edit: ESC is stuck at ESC Model V1.00_121012 screen, presssed buttons but no luck of a change
 
camyboy said:
Good NEWS! BOARD RUNS! Measuring up dimensions tmmr and going to look at ways for enclosures
Whats a good ESC config? Im not sure what to put
Edit: ESC is stuck at ESC Model V1.00_121012 screen, presssed buttons but no luck of a change

Let's discuss in your build thread and leave this for the loop key. glad your wiring is sorted. I'll post up in the latest thread w/ some troubleshooting steps that might help.
 
beetbocks said:
nice tutorial--
how do you find the antispark XT90 plug on larger 10S and above batteries? still works ok?

absolutely! I've used them with 8 and 12s with no issue. I don't have 10s, but 12s worked fine. My Series connector has the XT90 anti spark. Nice and compact and works great.
 
I just got a crazy idea. Solder capacitors to battery pack. And never disconnect. Never get a spark. When you connect battery pack to ESC with a loop key / whatever, there will be no rush current, because capacitors are already charged. Thoughts? Probably someone already tried this, but I couldn't quick google it.

Need to keep wires very short however, see this thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523
 
Old thread but wanted to say thanks and if anyone is still watching this I assume this could be done with a simple lipo series connector and just use the loop key to finish the circuit?
 
Actually a much cleaner way is to make your series cable that connects two battery pack in series have the jumper between the packs go to a connector of any type with a jumper resistor soldered to the connector and wires. The resistor charges the controller caps so pick a proper value and power rating like 1 watt 5 ohms. Then plug in a matching connector that you are using that has a wire soldered across the contacts which completes the series jumper between the packs with the plus wire on one pack and the minus wire on the other pack going to the load/controller. The jumper connector that shorts the charge resistor could also be a heavy duty switch. Having the wires going to the connectors in this way keeps them straight in line and easy to grab and pull to disconnect.
 
rmrf said:
I just got a crazy idea. Solder capacitors to battery pack. And never disconnect. Never get a spark. When you connect battery pack to ESC with a loop key / whatever, there will be no rush current, because capacitors are already charged. Thoughts? Probably someone already tried this, but I couldn't quick google it.

Need to keep wires very short however, see this thread http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952523

Yeah the caps need to be electrically close to the controller output FETs for them to work. Plus keeping caps across the batteries will slowly drain the battery through cap leakage and if a cap failed ... Poof!
But keep thinking!
 
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