Aprilia Enjoy

G'day James,

I have had a strange thing happen to me on a few occasions where my bike has suddenly stopped.The battery was okay but the controller had decided to cut off. However, after about 20 minutes it would be okay again.I learned to not push that bike too hard and avoid the cut off. Apparently not all of those chinese controllers are built exactly the same,but have slight differences that make them a bit susceptible to this problem.Not sure if that helps.

Cheers,
Tony.

Thanks for the help guys,

I just received another controller that has a lower cut off so will try that.

i just got of these - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/371352502376?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps

Looks like it might work well.....

Cheers
James

Hi guys. This is my first post on this forum after being read-only for a few years...

I just got one of these bikes last weekend. The seller suggested it had a dead battery, and a dead controller (He tried it with a working battery, and it did nothing.). I got it for 175 Euros.

It literally took less than 2 hours to get this thing going again, most of that time was spent massaging the battery which was sitting at 0 Volts. The supplied charger stopped after 5 minutes, so I charged it with a bench supply for ~2 hours at 5A, it was still stone cold. The controller was indeed bad, I'm not even going to bother looking at it any more.

I'm hooked, these things are amazing! I have a home built controller strapped to the side, which is slightly overpowered. (60V/100A). At the moment, it just uses a thumb throttle and regulates current to a maximum of 30A. I love the sound it makes when you change gears, it's like I'm driving a tiny muffled motor cycle.

The battery and motor both seem quite happy with 30 Amps, after riding around for about 20 minutes without any pedaling, the battery was flat. The motor was moderately warm (~40 C). It reaches 35 km/h in 6th gear, again.. no pedaling.

I want another one! Why are these so hard to find? They're brilliant. It' doesn't even have a Wiki... what's up with that?

I regreased a gearbox today and found that it was not necessary to remove the motor/gearbox from the bike. In the past I have thought it needed to be removed.
Quite a simple job of removing the drive side crank arm,then the bottom allan bolt that holds the plastic to the frame is removed. This allows the chain guard to be taken off once the other little allan bolt is removed and a little bracket on the bottom of the chain guard is removed from the gearbox.NOw you can drop the chain off and out of the way.
Next there is a philips head screw that holds the inner chain guard to the gearbox. It is hidden until you rotate the chainring and see it through the inner hole in the chainring (tricky little bugger!).
Once all this is gotten out of the way it is just a matter of removing the 3 allan bolts from the side of the gearbox. Again these are only accessible by rotating the chainring and getting at them through the outer holes in the chainring. Then you will notice a little slot on the gearbox on the front side that allows a small screwdriver to be put in and a gentle hit with a hammer will start to prise the outer cover of the gearbox from the inner casing.
Just continue prising it open and then you can grab onto the chainring and work it all the way out and off the shaft.
Inside the gearbox you will find the gear (not sure whats its called).This can also be removed as well as the other little gear at the other end of the shaft.

When you see it you will know what I mean,then it is just a matter of regressing all the gears and pinions etc and then put it back together. It took me about 30 minutes all up and I am not much of a mechanic

It is one hell of a lot easier than removing the motor/gearbox from the frame that is for sure.

CHeers,
Tony.

One of my bikes for sale.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kianga/other-sports-fitness/electric-bike-aprilia-enjoy/1084967849

hi infant

had to find you say

you should try finding one in england............... near impossible and also very rough when you do.

i have just purchased a ENJOY Racing after looking for 2 years
my Bro BRUMMY has one and his can top 45 MPH on a slight decline.

Need to start converting mine to lipo ASAP

summer is running out fast

Hi folks this is my first post on this thread.
I have acquired a non working City version of this bike.
There was no battery at all. Just a big open space between the side fairings where it would go, and the little hinged flap that should be just in front of the seat post was broken off. Otherwise the bike is in pretty good shape.
I had some Samsung 18650 26f cells from laptop batteries, left over from a previous rear wheel direct drive ebay kit project, and made up a 6s battery with a 12v voltage regulator hooked up to feed the pedelec etc so that I could test the original system, but nothing was working. The motor worked fine though with a direct feed to it.
Next I followed advice from this thread, and got a cheap 24v 500w controller off eBay. I already had a throttle & ebrakes.I've now got an 8s4p battery made up from my 18650's, Velcro tied to the battery copartment baseplate, with the controller where the original one was, gear shifter on the left side, twist throttle on the right & ebrakes replaced with the ones I had. I have a wattmeter wired in so that I can keep an eye on my battery usage, and balance leads wired in so that I can use battery alarms when they are getting a bit low.
I've been testing it for a few weeks now, & it all seems to work well. I need to go a bit steady, as the battery setup I'm using, is only rated for about 20amp discharge, but the controller can pull closer to 30 amps at full throttle.
Performance & range is very similar to my hub drive bike, which is using the same cells in a 10s4p arrangement, so I'm doing about the same thing with using 8 less cells.
One ride I like to do is a 32km round trip & includes a big long hill, which is a walk up for me on a normal bike.
I can do that trip, & ride the hill on a fully charged battery. I add a bit with the pedals, but nothing very strenuous.
Now that it's all working satisfactorily. I want to tidy the whole bike up & get it looking nice. To do that I need a battery lid & handle, & also the little hinged flap that would go over the original charging port.
Does any of you here in Oz have those parts spare, that I could buy, or can you let me know where my best bet is for buying them new?
My other option would be to make something up to close the top of my battery box out of fiberglass, but that would be a fair bit of work to do.
Hope someone can help me out, & thanks anyway for all sharing your experience with these great bikes, and making it a breeze for me to have got mine going well.

G'day BMboomer,

Welcome.

I have sent you a PM.

Cheers,
Tony.

Help please guy's I got me an enjoy very cheap and in great condition , its been standing in a garage for the past12 years the lady I purchased it from told me she was riding home when all power went, so she put it in her garage and that's where it stayed until I got it 4 weeks ago, OK battery was shot and also the controller, o I have a new controller from China 24v and also 2 new 12v 14amp battery's, I'm not into how fast it will go I just want to use the power on a couple of small hills where I live in england its mostly preety flat, I tested the motor with 12v and she spins up great, now do I need a throttle or can I use without? on my controller there is lock, stop light, battery, motor, brake, and derailia? but no sticker saying throttle, I'm no expert so any help would be great thankyou. Rob

G'day and welcome Bob,

I have been waiting for one of the more "tech" savvy blokes to reply to you but seeing as though that isn't happening then here goes.
Yes, you will need a throttle and it would be a good idea to visit this website to get all the info you will need. When you go onto this site you will have to scroll across to the right of the page to see the info( I remember the first time I went onto this site it was blank until I scrolled across to the right).

On your controller there will be a 3 pin connector that will probably be red/blue/black. I think it might be called "derailleur" which is presumably mixed up in the chinese/English language interpretation.That is the connector for the throttle. Once you get a throttle and it is all connected you will be in business.


http://myc5.nl/aprilia/eng%20new_controller.htm

Cheers,
Tony.

Many Thanks Tony I have all my parts now so going to have a crack at it today, will come back with an update. Rob

G'day Rob,

All the best of British luck to you mate.

Cheers,
Tony.

Been in the garage all day the bike is all up and running just need a dry day to test run it as its pissing down here, I have linked 2 12v 14a battery's to make the 24v any idea what sort of miles I can expect?? If I can get about 10 miles I will be pleased. Rob

G'day Rob,

The equation for range is the voltage multiplied by the capacity of the battery. So, in your case 14 Ah x 24 V is 336.This is referred to as your watt hours (WH).
Apparently if you are thrifty with the throttle you can expect to use 20 WH per mile so in theory you should get 16.8 miles.
Obviously this all depends on the weight of the bike, your weight, tire pressures and the terrain you are riding on.
I have been in your position of having a bike ready to ride and having the rain pissing down. Very frustrating.

Good luck mate.

Cheers,
Tony.

Many Thanks Tony for the information, I managed to get out for a short ride very short as its pissing down here again, all seems good pulled me along at a steady rate I feel pleased with how it performs just need a bloody dry day to get a few miles in, my sister lives in Melbourne tells me they have had there fair share of the wet stuff. Rob

If your 12V 14Ah batteries are SLA then don't expect to get the full capacity out of them like you can with lithium.

BMboomer said:

Does any of you here in Oz have those parts spare, that I could buy.

Click to expand...

Just got those parts I needed thanks to Tonyontopofabighill.
Really grateful for his help, and a great bloke to deal with. It's so helpful to have a resource like this to help these interesting projects along.
Thanks to all.

Yep he sure helped me gave me good info now I'm all up and running.

Hi, I've been lurking on here a number of years and am finally getting around to working on my Aprilia Enjoy "racing". Thanks to everyone who has contributed to the forum, I've been leeching information up till now!

I've replaced the battery with 12 x 3.2V LiFePO4 10Ah pouch cells, for 38.4V 10Ah, fitting neatly into the original battery box.

The existing controller works intermittently, seeming to cut out when too much power is demanded. It works pretty well in "hill" mode, but frequently fails in "eco" and "normal" modes, when any real force is placed on the pedals. Resetting the controller after it fails requires the battery to be removed for a few seconds and replaced before it will work again - turning off at the key switch is not enough. Though there is no indication from the LED indicator, I think it is sensing over-current as a result of the higher supply voltage. The controller is clearly not suited for >35V, the capacitors are only rated for 35V, but there doesn't seem to be anything protecting against higher voltages (I tested up to 50V with a lab power supply), similarly the VM (Voltage middle) from the battery to the controller serves no obvious function, the controller operates the same way regardless of whether it is connected or whether it has ~12V or not. I might try giving it ~19V for the middle of the new battery pack, but I doubt it will have any effect. Failing all that I will start dropping cells to see what voltage is reliably acceptable to the controller. I'd originally intended to use just 10 cells for 32V, but got greedy and went with 12 for 38.4V, maybe 32V is the easy solution (well it would have been easy before building the battery pack, though there is provision in the BMS at-least)?

I'm looking for a controller or two (preferably working, but not necessarily) to modify to make the controller suit the higher voltage. I realise they are encapsulated, but I've worked with encapsulated controllers as part of my work and while it's painful and tedious, it's not impossible.

I do have an after-market controller which I was thinking of adapting to work on the bike with the original torque and pedal sensor (the torque sensor is a key reason I like the bike), but think it would be nicer to modify the original controller. I'd like to use the original controller.

Also, has anyone tried joining the yellow and orange wires of the function switch? It probably makes no difference without the black wire; but what about all three wires? I've cut the white wire loop and will try some experimenting with that and the other sensors, but it seems to be the controller itself not liking the higher voltage and resultant higher current.

I'm in Alexandria NSW Australia, if anyone has a controller I could buy (or maybe donate to a good cause), working or not I'd like to hear from you!

Thanks!

I admire your determination to stick with the original controller, but I seriously doubt the Benifits of it.
I think most of us have fount that unit to be unreliable and even when it is working, difficult to figure out how it is actually meant to function ....
Add in the 24v limitation and it all becomes a pointless game when good replacement brushless controllers are so cheap.
Good luck anyway, Im sorry I cannot help with a spare controller as it was junked at my last house move !

Yep an aftermarket controller is good. I was thinking of parting our one of my two bikes - will see if I have an OEM controller left.

Tony, you're doing a great job of holding the fort here.

I know I could use a regular controller, but when it worked, the original controller was actually pretty good I thought. I don't wan't a throttle and found that when it worked the original controller was good at matching the pedal force with motor torque, something few ebikes - even now - can master (though some high end systems do it well (like the Bosch system)).

I expect once an original controller is de-encapsulated it won't be terribly difficult to see how it was designed to work and then modify to be more robust. I think that it will be better to do that than try to integrate the existing torque sensor into a new controller - though I know it could be done. There is really only one way to know for sure. I'll try documenting the tear down and mods and post it up here. Everyone can then share in the success/failure as the case may be. If it weren't encapsulated it would have been reverse engineered by someone long ago, and I'm not that bothered by having to remove the encapsulation.

A little bit of original controller info here:
http://myc5.nl/aprilia/eng%20new_controller.htm

And a little more info here:
http://apriliaenjoy.blogspot.com.au/p/la-storia.html
http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/controllerumbau-aprilia-enjoy.10511/
http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/mein-oldtimer-aprilia-enjoy-2002.10303/
http://www.jobike.it/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=7200
But I need to brush up on (aka learn) Italian and German...

G'day ThousandWax,

I have got an OEM controller. I took it off a bike that Hillhater bought off me. The bike came from Canberra and had only been ridden a few times by a bloke in his late 70's.I am not sure the brakes had even been used.It had been kept in his spare bedroom.

I replaced the OEM controller with the Chinese controller but did take care removing the old one. I did ride the bike when I first got it from Canberra and it was doing the "thing" with the controller with the false "buzzes" etc.

Anyway it is yours to play with if you wish. If you just pay the postage I will gladly send it to you.

Thanks for the vote of confidence Sam. Did a bloke come and see you with a Lee Iacocca EVG global E-bike?I gave him your details

Cheers,
Tony.