Old Kronik Boardz problem

Gordy1

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Dec 7, 2015
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First post here, so please be patient with me!

I got hold of a Kronik Boardz electric skateboard several months ago. At the time it wasn't working, but I discovered that a new set of batteries was all it needed, and I've had a few months of fun. However a few weeks ago it started to get a bit temperamental, briefly stopping every so often, but restarting immediately. Then the stoppages occured more often, and for longer, and it would start again fairly randomly (ie jiggle wires, touch bits of the board's metallic parts, etc would sometimes make it restart, but sometimes not). It has now stopped completely, so I've pulled it all apart to see if I can work out where the fault lies.

As far as I can tell:
The batteries are still fairly new, and are fully charged.
The motor will run if I connect the batteries directly to the motor.
The green/red light on the controller box still works.
The red light and beep on the hand-held remote still works.
I have no idea how to test the remote control receiver, but it doesn't look as if anything in it has "blown".

On the underside of the board there is a lot of what looks like aluminium foil stuck to it, and there are a number of wires from the remote receiver, the controller box, and even the motor electrically connecting these items to the foil (and possibly to a wire within the board itself, but I'm not sure of this). I don't know why all these connections are needed, but disconnecting the lot still doesn't make everything work.... I don't see this type of electrical connection on newer boards, but assume that there was a point to it way back in 2005-6 when I believe these boards were initially manufactured.

So, questions:
What components are likely to have failed, given the way the board started getting temperamental, and the current situation with each component?
What's the logic behind all the al foil etc? Can I just peel it all off, and get rid of all the excess connections?
Should I just accept that I'm dealing with antiquated technology, and go and get myself something more modern?

I do have photos that I could post if I could work out how to do it....
 
For the side of the battery it could make a similar symptom if it is unbalancing, so you could have some series under-voltage that could make a great voltage drop that makes the BMS or ESC cut-off. For a first test you could let the battery plugged 24h extra after charged so the balancing circuit from the BMS (taken into account it has BMS and with balancing circuit) can work completely
 
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