bikegeek
10 W
Are you sure you are using pure nickel strips? It looks like steel plated.
18650 spot welding -how to- ULTIMATE REPOSITORY
- Thread starter Nobuo
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Skrzypas
10 W
Yes, I did SEM-EDS measurement at work. >99,7% nickel throughout stripe crossection.bikegeek said:
bikegeek
10 W
The welded spots look very dark and I had this only on nickel plated steel.
LikeToRideMyBike
100 W
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So I bought the Sunko 709A upgraded which is one of the spot welders recommended for the USA, but the two pins on the welding head weld unevenly. One side will burn through the .15 nickel strip while the other does a fine weld. The one pin is stronger than the other. Welds are inconsistent as well. Has anyone else had this problem with this welder? Can it be fixed?
thanks all :|
thanks all :|
DVDRW
100 W
Skrzypas consider using insulators @positive side.
Lurkin
100 kW
I have a 1000 of these on order :lol:
LikeToRideMyBike said:
Which current level are you using? ( 0 - 8 )
are you referring about the static electrodes or the hand probes electrodes?
for the static electrodes, on the upper side there is a strength pressure knob, adjust to the harder level.
for the hand probes electrodes, try to attack highly perpendicular and with considerably force.
If you have burns with a good contact between electrodes, nickel and cell surface (or another nickel layer), the current is too high.
DVDRW said:Skrzypas consider using insulators @positive side.
If anyone needs to buy those the cheapest place by far I found them were from FastTech. Most other places were very expensive for what they are.
Very good quality from FastTech. They sell them in 2, 3, or 4 length.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1425/10012815/3952701
LikeToRideMyBike
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Nobuo said:
Hi, thanks for your comment. I've used all levels of current and pulse with the same result. I'm referring to the static electrodes. The hand probes don't even make a dent in the .15 nickel. I'll attach a picture to show you but one side seems to have more current passing through than the other. The seller is on help at all. They say it's "working fine" when clearly it's not. I've sent multiple pictures and a video. I know these are good welders. I just want one that works properly.
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I think uneven welding may be normal somehow. Even with the JP welder using the probes, one side seems to sometimes weld better than the other. Others have also noticed this. But most of the time it seems to weld evenly.
I don't know if this is because of uneven pressure with the probes or different angles from holding one in your right and one in your left. I tend to think it has something to do with the way the current flows from the positive to negative probe.
But the good thing is using hand probes I can adjust the pressure to even everything out, like pushing a little less hard with one probe than the other.
Maybe it really just has to do with the pressure of the probes as this has the largest difference.
I don't know if this is because of uneven pressure with the probes or different angles from holding one in your right and one in your left. I tend to think it has something to do with the way the current flows from the positive to negative probe.
But the good thing is using hand probes I can adjust the pressure to even everything out, like pushing a little less hard with one probe than the other.
Maybe it really just has to do with the pressure of the probes as this has the largest difference.
Skrzypas
10 W
Ordered 300pcs.Offroader said:DVDRW said:Skrzypas consider using insulators @positive side.
If anyone needs to buy those the cheapest place by far I found them were from FastTech. Most other places were very expensive for what they are.
Very good quality from FastTech. They sell them in 2, 3, or 4 length.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1425/10012815/3952701
Until they arrive I'll continue welding negatives
markz
100 TW
I ordered Fast Techs white single stickers and they seem to stick very well. I have had my seperators/holders off and on a few times and they stay on. It takes a bit of finesse (not much) to line them up so its centered.
Remember to get shipment via ePacket, its much quicker then other methods. Mine took a week or two with ePacket while my first purchase took about 2 months.
Remember to get shipment via ePacket, its much quicker then other methods. Mine took a week or two with ePacket while my first purchase took about 2 months.
LikeToRideMyBike
100 W
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Offroader said:
Do you think these uneven welds will be ok? I mean do you think they'll do the job? Obviously they are not ideal, but they are hard to pull off with pliers. I just don't want to ruin perfectly good brand new cells because of this welder if you know what I mean :?
LikeToRideMyBike said:
I would say probably, but I wouldn't personally trust it. Worst case you are just wasting a little bit of battery energy to heat. You would have to check if the welds are getting hot somehow during discharge.
I would say if one side is without doubt always weaker and you can't adjust the pressure of the probes, maybe try filing the probe down a little to be smaller on the weaker side?
If you think about it all the probes are doing is passing a current from one probe to the other, so if one side is stronger it has to be something with the copper probes. Most likely something with the pressure.
You will have to experiment to figure out how to get the welds even, either by filing down a probe (maybe more pointy or shorter), or holding the battery in a way to change the pressure.
If you figure it out then let us know.
You could always buy a JP welder a call it a day also.
LikeToRideMyBike
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Offroader said:
Thanks for the advice. I will experiment further to try and find the right pressure or current or whatever is happening. I would buy a JP welder but he's out of stock. Dang it!
LikeToRideMyBike
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Well, it looks like your suggestions worked Offroader. I filed down the weak pin quite a bite and gave it a little point. Not too sharp, but pointed. Then I raised it a little higher than the stronger pin. And when i apply pressure for the weld I tilt the cell toward the stronger pin. So far has put out consistent, even, strong welds. Thank you so much for the advise. So much!
My cells arrive the day after tomorrow. Tomorrow I will do more testing before I begin production, but I looks like I'm good to go. :wink:
But let me ask you this... Is it better to have your current high or your pulse high? For example: I can either have my pulse at 8p and my current at 6a, or I can have 6p and 8a for .15mm nickel. Either setting will work, but which one is better?
My cells arrive the day after tomorrow. Tomorrow I will do more testing before I begin production, but I looks like I'm good to go. :wink:
But let me ask you this... Is it better to have your current high or your pulse high? For example: I can either have my pulse at 8p and my current at 6a, or I can have 6p and 8a for .15mm nickel. Either setting will work, but which one is better?
LikeToRideMyBike said:
That is good to hear it worked. I ran into similar issues with my JP welder and also an issue of not being to get both sides welded strongly. I was pushing way too hard. By a bit of luck I somehow determined that all the inconsistency was how much pressure I was using. Surprisingly, nobody has ever commented on this once before in all the welding threads I read on the forum, which still surprises me because pressure seems to be a huge factor.
With the high current vs high pulse, I have actually asked this same question a few times already
. Nobody has yet to give me an answer.I think the issue is there are just too many variables when welding it is hard to give an answer.
Well, the best answer I think I got when asking the pulse time, was to experiment.Which I think holds true in your case.
With the JP welder we can't as easily adjust the amp setting like you can, we would have to add or remove batteries. Which I will actually be doing soon to try and figure out how best to weld .3 nickel.
What I would recommend is you get a disposable junk battery, like a C size battery or old 18650 and some extra nickel and keep testing the different settings. Just pull off the old weld and file the battery slightly to remove the old welds and keep trying the different settings until you see what seems to have the best welds (2 holes when pulled off without burning). If you weld at the tip of the nickel strip you can pull it off and weld again to the same strip to get a lot of uses.
I've welded like over 50 times to a single battery.
Mr Lowbank
10 W
Hi All
Have been mining the Endless sphere for information to build a new pack for my Bomber #127. Thanks to forum members for all the great information.
I decided against 20s14p as it would be a tight fit, weigh more and I really don't think I need the amps. I'm hoping for Sanyo NCR 18650GA Cells but Tumich is out of the GA"s!!. Will be installing Max-E controller and have crystalyte 5405 and 5404 motors.
I have a JP spot welder on the way along with all the other bits I think I might need. After taking onboard all the info about building batteries I have come up with the following design. I'm interested in any comments.
Cheers Jon
Have been mining the Endless sphere for information to build a new pack for my Bomber #127. Thanks to forum members for all the great information.
I decided against 20s14p as it would be a tight fit, weigh more and I really don't think I need the amps. I'm hoping for Sanyo NCR 18650GA Cells but Tumich is out of the GA"s!!. Will be installing Max-E controller and have crystalyte 5405 and 5404 motors.
I have a JP spot welder on the way along with all the other bits I think I might need. After taking onboard all the info about building batteries I have come up with the following design. I'm interested in any comments.
Cheers Jon
That looks pretty good, you are lucky to have such a rectangular pack to make it even. I have to solder a bunch of wires to each two cells to make everything even.
Copper strip makes sense to keep everything nice and flat.
Where are you going to get .2x8mm nickel? I'm yet to find a reputable source for 99% .2 mm nickel.
Copper strip makes sense to keep everything nice and flat.
Where are you going to get .2x8mm nickel? I'm yet to find a reputable source for 99% .2 mm nickel.
LikeToRideMyBike
100 W
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Offroader said:LikeToRideMyBike said:
That is good to hear it worked. I ran into similar issues with my JP welder and also an issue of not being to get both sides welded strongly. I was pushing way too hard. By a bit of luck I somehow determined that all the inconsistency was how much pressure I was using. Surprisingly, nobody has ever commented on this once before in all the welding threads I read on the forum, which still surprises me because pressure seems to be a huge factor.
With the high current vs high pulse, I have actually asked this same question a few times already
I think the issue is there are just too many variables when welding it is hard to give an answer.
Well, the best answer I think I got when asking the pulse time, was to experiment.Which I think holds true in your case.
With the JP welder we can't as easily adjust the amp setting like you can, we would have to add or remove batteries. Which I will actually be doing soon to try and figure out how best to weld .3 nickel.
What I would recommend is you get a disposable junk battery, like a C size battery or old 18650 and some extra nickel and keep testing the different settings. Just pull off the old weld and file the battery slightly to remove the old welds and keep trying the different settings until you see what seems to have the best welds (2 holes when pulled off without burning). If you weld at the tip of the nickel strip you can pull it off and weld again to the same strip to get a lot of uses.
I've welded like over 50 times to a single battery.
Great idea filing the practice cells down. I didn't think of that. I had already used them so much they were a mess. After filing I did some more testing. Is this the kind of welds I'm looking for? pushing slightly through the surface. And they hold firm. Notice how they are all even now. Whoohooo!
Attachments
999zip999
100 TW
With all those spot welds is it getting hot ?
Doctorbass
100 GW
Mr Lowbank said:Hi All
Have been mining the Endless sphere for information to build a new pack for my Bomber #127. Thanks to forum members for all the great information.
I decided against 20s14p as it would be a tight fit, weigh more and I really don't think I need the amps. I'm hoping for Sanyo NCR 18650GA Cells but Tumich is out of the GA"s!!. Will be installing Max-E controller and have crystalyte 5405 and 5404 motors.
I have a JP spot welder on the way along with all the other bits I think I might need. After taking onboard all the info about building batteries I have come up with the following design. I'm interested in any comments.
Cheers Jon
Excellent design!
I agree to say that the current share between cells is perfect.
