cyclone&cannondale

jordison

100 mW
Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
38
Location
EU
hey guys
here is my old 1998 cannondale f800 converted in 2014
motor: cyclone48v
battery: 14s 15ah lipo
controler :kelly kbs
5750 milles / 9200km
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Very nice dude!! Can you share your experience with maintenance? how is it been?

G.
 
its a mid drive and its a cyclone, so there's some implied maintenance.

i replace the chains every 2000 miles, i broke 1 chain after 2600 milles.
rear cassette lasts about 4000 milles.
replaced one rear derailleur pulley

i use transmission oil in the gearbox, it´s easear to clean when i need to replace the gears.

i replaced the 48t steel chainring for aluminium, big mistake, i guess it wasn't very round and put lot of stress on the motor bearings, chain and booth freewheels.

the lipos never get out of balance, so no problem there.

i have the controller limited to 40amps

i wanted an internaly geared hub, but some are expensive and the nexus might not handle the power .
 
I have a cyclone kit.
I have problems. The engine overheats and turns off the controller.
Happens to you this problem?
you know that is?
Greetings and enjoy your bike
 
the motor can cut the controller if you have a thermistor to send the motor temperature information to the controler.
i dont have that on mine, it happened the other day going downhill at 79,5 kph = 49,5 mph
it may not be the motor, the controller can overheat if you ride it in high rpm.
 
Pretty nice dude. It sounds like the Cyclone 3000W kit they recently released was a huge improvement over their older kits...

G.
 
the 1680w kit is not that bad.
most of the problems i had were after this piece of crap chainring, the teeth are ok , but its not perfectly round.
wanted to reduce weight and improve performance, the result was several failures
IMG_20160402_121623.jpg
 
The heavi cyclone kit dishes are standard.
Very good improvement, this adapter plates.
You use aluminum?
 
yes it's aluminium.

it would be a nice upgrade, this one is not round enough, turning the crank i could feel it putting pressure on the motor freewheel
 
You can buy online this that adapter plates.?
You can put a link?
Thank you
 
after about 600 cycles 2 of 6s lipo pack started to swallow, one pack had 1 cell with 3.3v and the others 3.8v.
these 2 bricks were a the bottom with all the weight on top of them , i'm not sure, maybe this killed this 2 cells.
i raplaced one of the cells from the old brick to make a spare,the outer cells are ease to replace.
i opened up one of the cells, it stinks like glue.
 

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Hi jordison,
I have a setup similar to yours: cyclone 1680 with kelly KBS-X
Unfortunately I am experiencing some trouble to set up the controller: the engine seems spin smooth but when it is connected to the bike the performance are very poor and the engine overheats after a very short time.

Had you used the "auto_identify" option during the set-up? (ref: https://kellycontroller.com/KBS-Xhelp.php)

KBS-X6.jpg


have you experienced some similar issue? suggestion?

Can you post your controller settings? pleeees :)

Thanks a lot

Stefano
 
Ok,
auto_identify option of kelly controller sucks.... DO NOT USE IT!
Manual swapping hall wires resolved the problem, now the engine spin faster as expected.

I am using the KBS72121X rated for 55amp continuous, it is quite overpowered for cyclone 1680w (the engine is rated for 33a continuous) and....it is quite difficult decode kelly controller settings.

Playing with the Max battery current and Max Motor Current to limit the maximum amperage i found this:
- Max Battery Current = 100% (this setting seems to limit the max voltage not the max amperage = the engine spin low
- Max Motor Current = unlike other Kelly controller it seems to be the motor current and not the phase current (perhaps)
= 100% it means boost current (130A) for 10/30 seconds and after 55A the continuous amperage
My dumb math: 130A * 30%(Max Motor Current) = 40Amp

KBS-X1.jpg


if you keep 100% the engine stall as soon you open the throttle.

The kelly settings now are quite similar to the original (not programmable) controller but:
  • kelly is a lot more smooth than the original controller (pro)
  • kelly provides less torque at low speed but good acceleration
  • with the same gearing (wheel:48:12, engine:53:13) with kelly, the engine overheats more easily (cons)

The gearing is for sure not ideal, the engine spin at low speed absorbing all the amperage available and wasting energy but: how it is possible that the ultra cheap Cyclone controller provides more torque at low rpm and avoid overheating compared with fully programmable 3xExpensive Kelly controller????

someone have similar experience to share?
 
kelly's aren't known for big take off power.
i have (had) the kbs-L, it doesn't have auto identify option
i see that you have the smooth setting enabled., i would try disabling it
 
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